THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  SERIES 


THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  SERIES 

Demy  8 vo,  cloth. 


z.  CHILE.  By  G.  F.  Scott  Elliott,  F.R.G.S.  With 

an  Introduction  by  Martin  Hume,  a Map,  and  39  Illustrations. 
(3rd  Impression.) 

2.  PERU.  By  C.  Reginald  Enock,  F.R.G.S.  With 

an  Introduction  by  Martin  Hume,  a Map,  and  72  Illustrations. 
(2nd  Impression.) 

3.  MEXICO.  By  C.  Reginald  Enock,  F.R.G.S.  With 

an  Introduction  by  Martin  Hume,  a Map,  and  64  Illustrations. 
(2nd  Impression.) 

4.  ARGENTINA.  ByW.  A.  Hirst.  With  an  Intro- 
duction by  Martin  Hume,  a Map,  and  64  Illustrations.  (3rd  Im- 
pression.) 

5.  BRAZIL.  By  Pierre  Denis.  With  a Historical 
Chapter  by  Bernard  Miall,  a Map,  and  36  Illustrations. 

a.  URUGUAY.  By  W.  H.  Koebel.  With  a Map  and 

55  Illustrations. 

7.  GUIANA : British,  French,  and  Dutch.  By 

James  Rodway.  With  a Map  and  36  Illustrations. 

8.  VENEZUELA.  By  Leonard  V.  Dalton,  B.Sc. 
(Lond.),  F.G.S.,  F.R.G.S.  With  a Map  and  36  Illustrations. 

9.  LATIN  AMERICA:  Its  Rise  and  Progress.  By 

F.  Garcia  Calderon.  With  a Preface  by  Raymond  Poincare, 
President  of  France,  a Map,  and  34  Illustrations. 

10.  COLOMBIA.  By  Phanor  James  Eder,  A.B., 

LL.B.  With  2 Maps  and  40  Illustrations.  (2nd  Impression.) 

11.  ECUADOR.  By  C.  Reginald  Enock,  F.R.G.S. 

12.  BOLIVIA.  By  Paul  Walle. 


« The  output  of  the  books  upon  Latin  America  has  in  recent  years 
been  very  large,  a proof  doubtless  of  the  increasing  interest  that  is  felt 
in  the  subject.  Of  these  the  South  American  Series  edited  by  Mr. 
Martin  Hume  is  the  most  noteworthy." — TIMES. 

“ Mr.  Unwin  is  doing  good  service  to  commercial  men  and  investors 
by  the  production  of  his  ‘ South  American  Series.’  ’’—Saturday 
Review. 

“Those  who  wish  to  gain  some  idea  of  the  march  of  progress  in 
these  countries  cannot  do  better  than  study  the  admirable  ‘South 
American  Series.’  ’’—Chamber  of  Commerce  Journal. 


URUGUAY 


BY  THE  SAME  AUTHOR 


Argentina,  Past  and  Present. 
Portugal  : Its  Land  and  People. 
Madeira  Old  and  New. 

Modern  Argentina. 

Etc.,  Etc. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/uruguayOOkoeb 


CATHEDRAL  : MONTEVIDEO. 


URUGUAY 


BY 

W.  H.  KOEBEL 


AUTHOR  OK 

“ARGENTINA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT,”  “PORTUGAL:  ITS  LAND  AND  PEOPLE," 
ETC. 


WITH  A MAP  AND  55  ILLUSTRATIONS 


LONDON 

T.  FISHER  UNWIN,  LTD. 

ADELPHI  TERRACE 


First  published,  in  ign 
Second  Impression,  IQ15 


(All  rights  reserved.) 


INTRODUCTORY  NOTE 


The  author  has  to  tender  his  cordial  thanks  for 
the  extreme  courtesy  and  for  the  invaluable  assist- 
ance rendered  during  his  stay  in  the  country  by  the 
Uruguayan  officials,  and  by  the  British  Minister 
Plenipotentiary,  Mr.  J.  R.  Kennedy. 

He  is  desirous  of  expressing  the  obligations  under 
which  he  has  been  placed  by  Mr.  C.  E.  R.  Rowland, 
British  Consul  at  Montevideo,  for  general  assistance 
and  information  on  the  seal  fisheries  ; Senor  Jose  H. 
Figueira,  for  the  description  of  the  aboriginal 
tribes  ; Senor  Ramos  Montero,  for  the  commercial 
technicalities  of  the  pastoral  industry  ; and  Mr.  V. 
Hinde,  for  the  paper  on  the  British  railways  in 
Uruguay. 

Thanks  are  due  to  a number  of  British  residents, 
both  in  Montevideo  and  the  Campo,  greater  than 
it  is  possible  to  enumerate  individually.  The 
author  would  more  especially  acknowledge  the 
courtesy  of  Messrs.  Stapledon,  W.  J.  Maclean,  H. 
Hall-Hall,  C.  W.  Baine,  Temple,  R.  Booth,  Piria, 
Adams,  R.  B.  Harwar,  L:.  L.  Mercer,  Warren,  and 
J.  Storm. 

Mr.  R.  A.  Bennett,  who  accompanied  the  author 
for  the  purpose  of  photography,  displayed  an  un- 
remitting zeal  that  must  be  gratefully  recognised. 
He  is  responsible  for  much  of  the  information  on 
Mercedes,  the  Swiss  colony,  and  the  frontier  town 
of  Rivera. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I 


SURVEY 

Geographical  situation  of  the  Republic — Boundaries  and  area 
— Uruguay  as  an  historical,  commercial,  and  financial  centre — 
The  respective  positions  of  Uruguay  and  Paraguay — Disadvan- 
tages of  a buffer  State — A land  of  sunshine  and  shadow — The 
history  of  Uruguay — The  blending  of  industry  and  warfare — 
Vitality  of  the  nation — Instances  of  self-sacrifice — A South 
American  Switzerland — A freedom-loving  folk — Deeds  of  arms 
and  the  undercurrents  of  commerce — Montevideo  in  the  eyes  of 
the  casual  traveller — Factors  that  make  for  the  progress  of  the 
Banda  Oriental — Influence  of  railway — Coming  cessation  of  the 
North  American  beef  shipments — Temperament  of  the  Uru- 
guayan— Distinction  between  Argentine  and  Uruguayan  politics 
— The  clans  of  the  Banda  Oriental — The  birthright  of  party 
convictions — Education  in  Uruguay — National  points  of  honour 
— Liberty  accorded  the  foreigner — The  courtesy  of  officials — An 
incident  at  the  customs-house — Popularity  of  the  English — A 
gratifying  situation — Satisfactory  international  relations — The 
work  of  Mr.  R.  J.  Kennedy,  the  British  Minister  Plenipotentiary 
— Uruguay’s  pacific  foreign  policy — Careful  finance — Army  and 
navy — General  progress  of  the  nation. 

CHAPTER  II 

HISTORY  9 * 

The  discovery  of  Uruguay — Reception  by  the  Indians — Juan  de 
Solis  and  his  fate — Navigation  of  the  River  Plate — Serrano  and 
Magellanes — Rivalry  between  Spaniards  and  Portuguese — The 
first  settlement  in  the  Banda  Oriental — Aggressive  tactics  of  the 
Indians — Forts  destroyed  by  them — Colonisation  under  difficul- 
ties— The  introduction  of  cattle — A prophetic  move — Interven- 
tion of  the  missionaries—Jesuit  settlements  established-Uru- 

9 


10 


CONTENTS 


guay’s  isolation  comes  to  an  end — Influence  of  the  live-stock — 
Cattle-raiders — The  first  Portuguese  invasion — Victory  of  the 
Spaniards,  assisted  by  native  auxiliaries — Treaties  and  their 
attendant  troubles — The  indecision  of  old  Spain — Partial  exter- 
mination of  the  Indians— -The  town  of  Colonia  as  a bone  of  con- 
tention-introduction of  the  first  negro  slaves  into  the  provinces 
of  the  River  Plate — Unrest  on  the  Spanish  Main — Moreau,  the 
buccaneer — The  fate  of  his  expedition — Portuguese  invaders 
expelled  by  the  Spaniards— A fort  is  constructed  on  the  present 
site  of  Montevideo. 

CHAPTER  III 


history  (continued)  . . # , 

Founding  of  the  city  of  Montevideo — Its  first  inhabitants — 
Inducement  offered  to  colonists — The  early  days  of  the  town — 
Successful  rising  of  the  Indians  in  the  neighbourhood — Victory 
of  the  natives — Montevideo  saved  by  Jesuit  intervention — The 
Portuguese  invade  the  northern  provinces — The  first  Governor 
of  Montevideo — Treaties  and  territorial  cessions — Dissatisfac- 
tion of  Jesuit  Indians — Their  defeat  by  combined  Spanish  and 
Portuguese  forces — Vicissitudes  of  Colonia — The  danger  of 
hostile  residents — A concentration  camp  of  the  old  days — Expul- 
sion of  the  Jesuits — Some  incidents  of  the  wars  with  the  Portu- 
guese— The  foundation  of  urban  centres — The  English  occupy 
themselves  with  the  whaling  industry  on  the  coast — Discourage- 
ment of  the  enterprise  by  the  King  of  Spain — A corps  of 
“ Blandengues  ” is  created — The  British  invasion — Political 
effects  of  the  occupation — The  War  of  Independence — 
Montevideo  as  the  seat  of  the  Spanish  viceroyalty — Com- 
mencement of  the  agitation  for  freedom  in  Uruguay. 

CHAPTER  IV 

history  (continued)  

The  advent  of  Artigas — First  revolutionary  movements  in 
Uruguay — The  appointment  of  leaders — First  successes  of  the 
Uruguayans — The  germs  of  future  jealousies  — Montevideo 
besieged  by  the  patriot  forces — An  incident  of  the  investment 
— Spain  appeals  to  Portugal  for  assistance- — Invasion  of  Uruguay 
by  the  latter — The  Buenos  Aires  Government  concludes  a treaty 
with  the  Spanish  Viceroy — Raising  of  the  siege  of  Montevideo 
— Position  of  Uruguay — Discontent  of  the  Orientales — The 
exodus  of  the  nation  — Incidents  of  emigration  to  the 
Argentine  shore — Montevideo  in  Spanish  hands — The  country 
overrun  by  Portuguese — -Buenos  Aires  effects  a treaty  with  the 


CONTENTS 


11 


PAGE 

latter — Resumption  of  the  campaign  against  the  Span- 
iards— Dispute  between  the  Argentine  and  Uruguayan 
leaders— Montevideo  again  besieged — Some  battle  incidents — 
Artigas  reappears  on  the  scene — Drastic  measures  towards  an 
ally — A national  Congress  convened — Oriental  deputies  rebuffed 
by  Buenos  Aires  — Artigas  withdraws  from  the  siege  of 
Montevideo — Price  set  upon  his  head — War  declared  between 
Uruguay  and  Buenos  Aires — The  Argentine  littoral  provinces 
adhere  to  Artigas — Fall  of  Montevideo. 

CHAPTER  V 

history  ( continued ) . . , . .69 

Conclusion  of  Spanish  rule — Situation  of  the  victors — Rival 
claims — Alvear  defeats  a Uruguayan  force — Montevideo  re- 
mains in  possession  of  Buenos  Aires — Rural  Uruguay  supports 
Artigas — Alliance  of  the  Argentine  littoral  provinces  with  the 
Orientales — Some  intrigues  and  battles  — Success  of  the 
Uruguayans — Departure  from  Montevideo  of  the  Buenos  Aires 
garrison — The  Uruguayans  enter  into  possession  of  their 
capital— Some  crude  methods  of  government — Trials  of  the 
inhabitants — Growth  of  Artigas’s  power — The  Buenos  Aires 
directors  undertake  a propitiatory  measure — A grim  human 
offering — Attitude  of  the  Uruguayan  Protector — Negotiations 
and  their  failure — The  civil  progress  of  Uruguay — Formation 
of  departments — The  Portuguese  invade  the  country  once  again 
— Condition  of  the  inhabitants — Fierce  resistance  to  the  invaders 
— A campaign  against  heavy  odds — The  Portuguese  army  enters 
Montevideo — War  continued  by  the  provinces — Invasion  of 
Brazil  by  the  Oriental  forces — Crushing  defeats  suffered  by  the 
army  of  invasion — Final  struggles — The  flight  of  Artigas — 
Uruguay  passes  under  Portuguese  rule. 

CHAPTER  VI 

ARTIGAS  . . . . . , ,78 

The  human  product  of  a turbulent  era — Historical  verdicts 
disagree — Opinions  of  Uruguayan  and  foreign  historians — 
High-flown  tribute — The  cleansing  of  Artigas’s  fame — Prejudices 
of  some  local  accounts — Uruguay  at  the  time  of  Artigas’s  birth — 
Surroundings  of  his  youth — Smuggling  as  a profession — Growth 
of  his  influence — His  name  becomes  a household  word — Artigas 
enters  the  Spanish  service  — The  corps  of  Blandengues — 
Efficiency  and  promotion — Quarrel  with  the  Spanish  General — 
Artigas  throws  in  his  lot  with  the  patriot  forces — His  success  as 
a leader  of  men — Rank  accorded  him  — Jealousy  between 


12 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 


Artigas  and  the  Buenos  Aires  generals — Conflicting  ambitions — 

The  Portuguese  invasion — Artigas  leads  the  Oriental  nation  to 
the  Argentine  shore — The  encampment  at  Ayui — Scarcity  of 
arms  and  provisions  — Battles  with  the  Portuguese  — The 
subalterns  of  Artigas — Otorgues  and  Andresito — Crude  govern- 
mental procedure  — Arbitrary  decrees  — The  sentiments  of 
Artigas — His  love  of  honesty — Progress  of  the  war — Compli- 
cations of  the  campaign — Artigas  as  Protector — The  encamp- 
ment of  Hervidero — Revolting  tales  — The  exaggeration  of 
history — Artigas  refuses  honours — His  proclamation — Simple 
life  of  the  Commander — Some  contemporary  accounts — The 
national  treasury  — Final  desperate  struggles  against  the 
Portuguese  — Rebellion  of  Ramirez  — Fierce  battles  — Extra- 
ordinary recuperative  power  of  the  Protector — Final  defeat  of 
Artigas — Flight  to  Paraguay — The  Protector  in  retirement. 

CHAPTER  VII 

history  (continued).  . . . * 97 

The  Spanish  colonies  as  nations — The  first-fruits  of  freedom — 
Uruguay  beneath  the  heel  of  Portugal — The  advent  of  a second 
liberator — Juan  Antonio  Lavalleja — The  forming  of  the  league 
of  the  “ thirty-three  ” — Opening  of  the  campaign — The  patriot 
force — Rank  and  its  distribution — The  crossing  of  the  River 
Plate  — Commencement  of  operations  in  Uruguay — A first 
success — Spread  of  the  movement — Rivera  embraces  the  patriot 
cause— The  march  upon  Montevideo — A daring  siege — How  the 
army  of  occupation  was  deceived — Timely  reinforcements — 
Lavalleja  establishes  an  independent  Government — Incident  at 
the  opening  of  the  Senate — Argentina  comes  to  the  assistance 
of  Uruguay — Beginning  of  the  rivalry  between  Rivera  and 
Lavalleja — Dissension  in  the  Uruguayan  army — Temporary 
disgrace  of  Rivera — His  acquittal — Lavalleja  declares  himself 
dictator — Uruguay’s  independence  acknowledged  by  Argentina 
and  Brazil — The  national  authorities  enter  Montevideo, 

CHAPTER  VIII 

history  (continued)  . 107 

Foreign  war  succeeded  by  internal  chaos — Warriors  as  states- 
men— The  dictatorship  of  Lavalleja — His  methods — The  first 
open  breach  between  Lavalleja  and  Rivera — A temporary 
reconciliation — Establishment  of  the  Constitution  of  Uruguay — 
Lavalleja  and  Rivera  candidates  for  the  president’s  chair — 
Differences  in  the  temperament  of  the  two — Rivera  is  elected 
first  President  of  Uruguay — Jealousies  and  intrigues — Attack 


CONTENTS 


13 


PAGE 

upon  Rivera — Narrow  escape  of  the  President — Lavalleja’s 
party  temporarily  occupy  Montevideo — Defeat  of  the  insurgent 
general — His  flight  into  Brazil — Intervention  of  the  Argentine 
dictator  Rosas — His  support  of  Lavalleja — Combined  forces 
beaten  by  Rivera — Lavalleja’s  second  attempt  proves  unsuc- 
cessful • — General  Oribe  succeeds  Rivera  as  President  — 
Lavalleja’s  party  again  in  the  ascendant — Rivera  heads  a 
revolution — Civil  war — Intervention  of  France — Resignation  of 
Oribe — Rivera  elected  President — His  alliance  with  the  French 
and  Corrientinos — Declaration  of  war  against  Rosas — Defeat  of 
the  latter — On  the  withdrawal  of  the  French  Rosas  resumes  the 
aggressive  — Severe  defeat  of  Rivera  and  his  allies  of  the 
littoral  provinces — Oribe  besieges  Montevideo — The  services  of 
Garibaldi — The  Uruguayan  forces  decimated — Further  incidents 
of  the  war — The  power  of  Rosas  broken  by  Brazil,  Uruguay, 
and  Entre  Rios. 


CHAPTER  IX 

history  ( continued ) . . . . , .118 

Condition  of  Uruguay  at  the  conclusion  of  the  war  against  Rosas 
— Measures  for  the  relief  of  poverty — Juan  Francisco  Giro  elected 
President — The  arising  of  antagonistic  elements — Giro  resigns 
in  favour  of  Bernardo  Berro — A revolution  ends  in  the  formation 
of  a triumvirate— On  the  death  of  Lavalleja  and  Rivera,  Flores 
becomes  Dictator — Rebellion  against  his  rule — Brazil  sends  an 
army  to  the  assistance  of  General  Flores — Further  revolutionary 
movements — Manuel  Basilio  Bustamente  succeeds  Flores — 

The  policy  of  General  Cesar  Diaz — Plis  exile  and  return  at  the 
head  of  an  army — Defeat  and  death  of  Diaz — Two  interim 
Presidents — Continuous  civil  war — General  Flores  enters  the 
Republic  in  command  of  a strong  force  and  is  declared  Dictator — 

The  Paraguayan  war — Causes  of  its  outbreak — The  policy  and 
military  strength  of  Paraguay — Strategic  errors — Uruguay’s 
share  in  the  campaign — Flores  returns  to  Montevideo  from  the 
seat  of  war — His  assassination — General  Lorenzo  Batlle  elected 
President — The  continuance  of  political  unrest — Various  presi- 
dents and  dictators — The  Government  of  the  present  day — 

Don  Jose  Batlle  y Ordonez — Doctor  Claudio  Williman — The 
Uruguayan  battlefields  in  tabular  form — Progress  of  the  land. 

CHAPTER  X 

URUGUAYAN  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS  . „ . 128 

The  temperament  of  the  Oriental — Some  merits  of  the  race — 

The  Spanish  Main  as  treated  in  fiction — Distinctions  between 


14 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 


the  villains  in  print  and  in  actual  life — Civility  as  a national  trait — 
Courtesy  of  officials — The  Uruguayan  as  a sturdy  democrat — 

A land  of  equality — Some  local  mannerisms — Banquets  and 
general  hospitality — Some  practical  methods  of  enjoying  life — 
Simplicity  versus  ostentation — Some  consequences  of  prosperity 
— The  cost  of  living — Questions  of  ways  and  means — European 
education  and  its  results — Some  evidences  of  national  pride — 

The  physique  of  the  Oriental — Sports  and  games — Football — 

The  science  of  bull-fighting — Eloquence  and  the  oratorical  art — 
Uruguayan  ladies — Local  charm  of  the  sex — South  American 
institutions — Methods  by  which  they  have  been  improved — The 
advantages  of  experiments — The  Uruguayan  army  and  navy — 
Some  characteristics  of  the  police — Honesty  of  the  nation — 
Politics  and  temperament. 

CHAPTER  XI 

ABORIGINAL  TRIBES  . . . . . . I38 

The  population  of  Uruguay  prior  to  the  Spanish  conquest — 
Principal  tribes — Paucity  of  information  concerning  the  early 
aboriginal  life — The  Charruas — Warlike  characteristics  of  the 
race — Territory  of  the  tribe— Stature  and  physique — Features 
— The  occupations  of  war  and  hunting — Temperament  and 
mannerisms — A people  on  the  nethermost  rung  of  the  social 
ladder — Absence  of  laws  and  penalties  — Medicine-men — A 
crude  remedy — The  simplicity  of  the  marriage  ceremony — 
Morality  at  a low  ebb — The  prevalence  of  social  equality — 
Method  of  settling  private  disputes — The  Charruas  as  warriors 
— Tactics  employed  in  warfare— Some  grim  signals  of  victory 
— Treatment  of  the  prisoners  of  war — Absence  of  a settled  plan 
of  campaign — Arms  of  the  Charruas — Primitive  Indian  weapons 
— Household  implements — Burial  rites — The  mutilation  of  the 
living  out  of  respect  for  the  dead — Some  savage  ceremonies — 
Absence  of  religion — A lowly  existence — Desolate  dwellings — 
Change  of  customs  effected  by  the  introduction  of  horses— 
Indian  appreciation  of  cattle — Improvement  in  the  weapons  of 
the  tribe — Formidable  cavalry— The  end  of  the  Charruas — 
Other  Uruguayan  tribes — The  Yaros  — Bohanes— Chanas — 
Guenoas — M inuanes — Arachanes. 

CHAPTER  XII 


MONTEVIDEO  . . . « . . 151 

Population — Attributes  of  the  city — Situation  of  the  Uruguayan 
capital — The  Cerro — A comparison  between  the  capitals  of 
Argentina  and  Uruguay — The  atmosphere  of  Montevideo — A 


CONTENTS 


15 


PAGE 

city  of  restful  activity — Comparatively  recent  foundation — Its 
origin  an  afterthought — Montevideo  in  1727 — Homely  erections 
— Progress  of  the  town — Advance  effected  within  the  last  thirty 
years — The  Uruguayan  capital  at  the  beginning  of  the  nine- 
teenth century — Some  chronicles  of  the  period — The  ubiquity 
of  meat — Dogs  and  their  food — Some  curious  accounts  of  the 
prevalence  of  rats — The  streets  of  old  Montevideo — Their  perils 
and  humours — A comparison  between  the  butchers’  bills  of  the 
past  and  of  the  present — Some  unusual  uses  for  sheep — Methods 
in  which  the  skulls  and  horns  of  cattle  were  employed — Modern 
Montevideo — The  National  Museum — An  admirable  institution 
— Theatres  — Critical  Montevidean  audiences — Afternoon  tea 
establishments  — The  Club  Uruguay  — The  English  Club — 
British  community  in  the  capital— Its  enterprise  and  philan- 
thropy— The  Montevideo  Times — A feat  in  editorship — Hotels — 

Cabs  and  public  vehicles— The  cost  of  driving. 

CHAPTER  XIII 

MONTEVIDEO  . . . . . . l6l 

The  surroundings  of  the  capital — Pleasant  resorts — The  Prado — 

A well-endowed  park — Colon — Aspects  of  the  suburbs — Some 
charming  quintas — A wealth  of  flowers  and  vegetation — Euro- 
pean and  tropical  blossoms  side  by  side — Orchards  and  their 
fruits — The  cottages  of  the  peasants — An  itinerant  merchant — 
School-children — Methods  of  education  in  Uruguay — The  choice 
of  a career — Equestrian  pupils — The  tramway  route — Aspects  of 
the  village  of  Colon — Imposing  eucalyptus  avenues — A country 
of  blue-gum — Some  characteristics  of  the  place — Flowers  and 
trees — Country  houses — The  Tea  Garden  Restaurant — Meals 
amidst  pleasant  surroundings — An  enterprising  establishment — 
Lunch  and  its  reward — Pogitos  and  Ramirez — Bathing  places  of 
the  Atlantic — Blue  waters  compared  with  yellow — Sand  and 
rock — Villa  del  Cerro— The  steam  ferry  across  the  bay — A town 
of  mixed  buildings — Dwelling-places  and  their  materials — The 
ubiquitous  football — Aspects  of  the  Cerro — Turf  and  rock — A 
picturesque  fort — Panorama  from  the  summit  of  the  hill — The 
guardian  of  the  river  mouth— The  last  and  the  first  of  the 
mountains. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

FROM  MONTEVIDEO  TO  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  . 172 

Leaving  Montevideo — General  aspects  of  the  Campo — The  Rio 
Negro  as  a line  of  demarcation — Growing  exuberance  of  the 
scenery — Flor  Morala — Blue  lupin — Camp  flowers—  A sparsely 


16 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

populated  countryside — Absence  of  homesteads — A soft  land- 
scape— Humble  ranchos— Cattle  and  horses — Iguanas  and 
ostriches — Deer— Cardoso — Influence  of  climate  and  marriage 
upon  the  colonists — A cheese-making  centre — A country  of  table- 
lands— A Campo  road — Some  characteristics  of  the  way — A 
group  of  riders — Some  contrasts — A country  of  rocks — Stone 
walls — Crude  homesteads — Kerosene  tins  as  building  material — 
Camp  stations — The  carpets  of  blossom — Piedra  Sola — Tambores 
— Landscape  and  nomenclature — Increase  in  the  height  of  the 
table-lands — Scenes  at  a country  station — Aspects  of  the  inhabit- 
ants— Some  matters  of  complexion — The  train  and  its  transfor- 
mation— Influence  of  the  country  upon  the  carriages — Northern 
passengers — Metropolitan  and  local  costume — Some  questions 
of  clothes  and  figure — Relations  between  mistresses  and  maids 
— Democratic  households — A patriarchal  atmosphere — Things 
as  they  seem,  and  as  they  are — Conversation  no  guide  to 
profession. 


CHAPTER  XV 

FROM  MONTEVIDEO  TO  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  ( Con- 
tinued) . . . . . . *183 

A remarkable  transformation  in  nature — The  Valley  of  Eden — 

The  gateway  of  the  garden — An  abrupt  descent — From  bare 
plain  to  sub-tropical  forest — Picturesque  scenery — Eden  station 
— Some  curiosities  of  nomenclature — Beggary  as  a profession — 

The  charity  of  the  Latin  lands — The  cliffs  of  the  valley — Varied 
aspects  of  the  vegetation — The  everlasting  sweet-pea — Some 
characteristics  of  the  mountains — A land  of  tobacco — Negro 
cultivators — Appearance  and  dwellings  of  the  coloured  popula- 
tion— Some  ethics  of  climate  and  costume — Tacuarembo — A 
centre  of  importance — A picturesque  town — Scenes  at  the 
station — Some  specimens  of  local  humanity — A dandy  of  the 
Campo— The  northern  landscape — The  African  population — 
Nature  and  the  hut — The  tunnel  of  Banada  de  Rocha — Paso  del 
Cerro — On  the  Brazilian  border — Rivera — A frontier  town — 

Santa  Ana — The  Brazilian  sister-township — A comparison  be- 
tween the  two — View  from  a neighbouring  hill — The  rival 
claims  to  beauty  of  the  Uruguayan  and  Brazilian  towns. 


CHAPTER  XVI 

HERE  AND  THERE  IN  URUGUAY  . . • . I95 

Uruguayan  roads — A comparison  with  those  of  Argentina — The 
benefits  of  stone — Some  fine  metalled  highways — The  road 


CONTENTS 


17 


PAGE 

to  San  Jose — On  the  way  to  Pando — The  journey  as  effected  by 
motor-car — A smiling  landscape — Distant  sand-dunes — A spotless 
range — The  mountains  of  Minas — The  town  of  Pando — Atypical 
minor  urban  centre — The  ending  of  the  macadamised  road — 

The  track  beyond — An  abrupt  change  in  the  order  of  going — 

The  bumps  of  the  Campo — Piriapolis — A budding  pleasure  resort 
Completeness  of  the  enterprise — Eucalyptus  forests — A vehicu- 
lar wreck  by  the  way — Unsuccessful  Samaritans — The  work  of 
Senor  Piria — The  Castillo — An  imposing  home — View  from  the 
spot — The  Pan  de  Azucar — A landscape  of  mountain,  valley, 
forest,  and  sea — Architecture  of  the  Castillo — Piriapolis  Bay — 

A centre  of  future  bathing — Preparations  already  effected — The 
hotel  and  casino — A wonderful  feat  of  private  enterprise — 
Afforestation — Encouragement  of  the  industry  by  the  Uruguayan 
Government — The  work  of  Mr.  Henry  Burnett — The  transforma- 
tion of  arid  soil  into  fertile  land — Commercial  success  of  the 
venture — The  Maldonodo  sand-dunes — Fulgurites — A curiosity 
of  the  sands — Discoveries  by  Mr.  C.  E.  R.  Rowland. 


CHAPTER  XVII 

MERCEDES  AND  THE  SWISS  COLONY  . . . 205 

The  journey  to  Mercedes — The  outskirts  of  Montevideo — Santa 
Lucia — A pleasant  town — Native  quince  and  gorse — San  Jose — 

The  terminus  of  a great  highway — Some  feats  of  engineering — 

The  urban  importance  of  San  Jose — A modern  flour-mill — Mai 
Abrigo — Character  of  the  soil — A country  of  boulders — Some 
animals  of  the  Sierra  de  Mai  Abrigo — The  surroundings  of 
Mercedes — A charmingly  situated  town — The  terminus  of  the 
line — Some  characteristics  of  Mercedes — Urban  dwellings — The 
delights  of  the  fatio — The  disadvantages  of  economy  in 
space — Streets  and  plazas  — The  hospital— A well-equipped 
institution — View  from  the  building — An  island  in  the  Rio 
Negro — The  Port  of  Mercedes — River  craft — Some  local  scenes 
— An  equine  passenger — Formidable  gutters — The  industries  of 
the  town — The  Hotel  Comercial — Colonia  Suiza — Situation  of  the 
Swiss  Colony — Uruguayan  Campo  dwellings — Method  of  con- 
struction— Simplicity  of  household  removals — Aspect  of  deserted 
huts — The  houses  of  the  Swiss  Colony — Habits  in  general  of 
South  American  colonists — The  range  of  nationalities — Liberty 
accorded — Population  of  the  Colonia  Suiza — Its  industries — A 
dairy  farming  community — An  important  butter  factory— -An 
instance  of  a rapid  rise  from  poverty  to  riches. 

2 


18 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

COLONIA  ....  . 

An  historical  town — Rarity  of  mines  in  the  River  Plate  countries 
— Specimens  at  Colonia — Situation  of  the  town — Past  antagon- 
ism between  the  capitals  of  Argentina  and  Uruguay — Present 
aspect  of  Colonia  compared  with  the  former — A sleepy  hollow — 
Periodical  awakenings  of  the  place — Impressions  of  the  old 
town — Its  colouring  and  compactness — Fortifications  of  the  city 
of  discord — A warlike  history — Nations  that  have  warred  to- 
gether at  the  spot — The  reddest  corner  in  a bloodstained  land — 
Surroundings  of  the  town — Crumbling  masonry — A medley  of 
old  and  new — A Colonia  street — Old-times  scenes  of  peace  and 
war — Some  pictures  of  the  past — Cannon  as  road  posts — The 
Plaza — An  episode  in  the  wars  with  Portugal — The  eternity  of 
romance — Real  de  San  Carlo — A modern  watering-place — Its 
buildings — The  bullring — A gigantic  pelota  court — Popularity 
of  the  spot — A miniature  tramway — Attractions  of  Real  de  San 
Carlo — Vegetation  on  the  sands — A curious  colour  scheme — 
Pleasant  lanes — Buenos  Aires  as  a supplier  of  tourists. 


CHAPTER  XIX 

THE  URUGUAY  RIVER  . 

A great  waterway — The  river  compared  with  the  Parana — Some 
questions  of  navigation — The  lower  stretch  of  the  Uruguay — 
The  stream  from  Montevideo  upwards — Montevideo — The 
docks — An  imposing  array  of  Mihanovich  craft  — Breadth 
of  the  river — Aspects  of  the  banks — Various  types  of  vessels — 
The  materials  of  their  cargoes — The  meeting  of  sister  steamers 
— The  etiquette  of  salutations — Fray  Bentos — The  Lemco  fac- 
tory and  port — A notable  spot — The  Paradise  of  the  eater — 
The  islands  of  the  Uruguay — Method  of  their  birth  and  growth — 
The  responsibility  of  leaves  and  branches — Uncertainty  of  is- 
land life — The  effects  of  flood  and  current — Sub-tropical  bergs — 
The  vehicles  of  wild  creatures — A jaguar  visitation  in  Monte- 
video— Narrowing  of  the  stream — Paysandu — The  home  of  ox- 
tongues— The  second  commercial  town  of  the  Republic-Some 
features  of  the  place — Variety  of  the  landscape — The  Mesa  de 
Artigas — An  historical  table-land — A monument  to  the  national 
hero — Salto — A striking  town — Pleasant  landscape — The  Salto 
falls — The  ending  of  the  lower  Uruguay — A rocky  bed — Some 
minerals  of  Salto — Alteration  in  the  colour  of  the  water — The 
beauty  of  the  upper  Uruguay. 


CONTENTS 


19 


CHAPTER  XX 

PAGE 

THE  URUGUAYAN  CAMPO  . 237 

Formation  of  the  land — A survey  of  the  country — Features  of  the 
soil— Types  of  wild  flowers — A land  of  hill,  valley,  and  stream — 

The  glamour  of  the  distance — “ The  purple  land  ” — Breezes  of  the 
Campo — An  exhilarating  country — The  dearth  of  homesteads — 

The  Uruguayan  Gaucho — His  physique — The  product  of  the 
blowy  uplands — Matters  of  temperament — His  comparative 
joviality — The  Gaucho  as  worker,  player,  and  fighter — The 
manipulation  of  feuds — A comparison  between  Argentina  and 
Uruguay — Warrior  ancestors  of  the  Gaucho — His  sense  of 
dignity  and  honour — Conservative  habits  and  customs — Costume 
and  horse  gear — Strenuous  bailes — Some  homeric  feats  of 
dancing  — Stirring  revelry  — The  Uruguayan  landowner  — 
Foreign  elements  in  the  land — Negro  inhabitants  of  the  Banda 
Oriental — The  numerical  status  of  the  Africans  in  the  north 
and  in  the  south — Absence  of  a racial  question — The  slavery  of 
former  days — The  employment  of  black  troops  in  war — Lenient 
treatment  of  negro  slaves — Harsh  measures  applied  to  abo- 
riginal Indians — A lesson  in  human  economy — Testimony  of 
a contemporary  writer — Immigrant  colonies. 

CHAPTER  XXI 

ESTANCIA  LIFE  ......  246 

Similarities  between  the  farming  routine  of  Uruguay  and  of 
Argentina — The  Banda  Oriental  a pastoral  rather  than  an 
agricultural  land — Viticulture  an  asset  in  Estancia  affairs — 
Wheat,  maize,  and  linseed — Scarcity  of  alfalfa — Excellence 
of  the  natural  pastures — The  possibilities  of  private  agricultural 
colonisation — Favourable  outlook  for  grazing  countries  in 
general — Lemco  estancias — The  estancia  San  Juan — A compre- 
hensive enterprise— Cattle,  cereals,  and  viticulture — Stone  quar- 
ries— A Campo  stretch — The  cutting  out  of  a bullock — A Gaucho 
meal. 

CHAPTER  XXII 

URUGUAY  AS  A PASTORAL  COUNTRY  . . . 254 

Origin  of  the  live  stock  of  the  country — Influence  of  the  climate 
and  pastures  upon  the  first  animals  introduced — Live  stock 
census  of  1909 — Importance  of  the  breeding  industry — Various 
ramifications — Principal  items  of  home  consumption — Articles 
of  export — Quality  of  the  first  herds  introduced — Type  of  original 
sheep  and  horses — Goats  and  pigs — The  introduction  of  a 
superior  class  of  animals — The  criollos  and  the  mestizos — Breeds 


20 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 


imported — Durham,  Hereford,  Polled  Angus,  and  Devon  cattle 
— Dutch,  Norman,  Flemish,  and  Swiss  cattle — Growth  of  the 
dairy  industry — Popular  breeds  of  sheep  and  horses  and  pigs — 
Principal  countries  from  which  the  animals  are  derived — Grow- 
ing value  of  the  local-bred  live  stock — The  manipulation  of  an 
estancia — Well-found  estates — Uruguayan  agricultural  societies 
— Work  effected  by  these — Government  support — The  Rural 
Association  of  Uruguay — Financial  results  of  agricultural  shows 
— Side  products — Tallow-Hams — Tanning — “ La  Carolina  ” — 

A great  dairy  farm — The  factory  of  Breuss  and  Frey — The 
saladeroSy  or  meat-curing  establishments — Number  of  animals 
slaughtered — Method  by  which  the  meat  is  cured — Tasajo — 
Countries  to  which  it  is  exported — The  frozen-meat  trade — 

“ La  Frigorifica  Uruguaya  ” — Important  growth  of  the  new 
industry — Shipments  of  frozen  meat. 

CHAPTER  XXIII 

DEPARTMENTS,  CLIMATE,  AND  NATURAL  HISTORY  . . 265 

The  nineteen  divisions  of  Uruguay — Their  populations,  areas, 
towns,  and  industries — Canelones — Florida — San  Jose — Durazno 
— Flores — Colonia — Soriano — Rio  Negro — Paysandu  — Salto — 
Artigas — Tacuarembo — Rivera — Cerro  Largo — Treinta  y Tres — 
Rocha — Maldonado — Montevideo — Climate — Favourable  condi- 
tions throughout  the  Republic — The  Atlantic  coast  line — The 
summer  season — Pleasantly  tempered  heat — A land  of  cool 
breezes — Its  attractions  as  a pleasure  resort — Climates  of  the 
interior  and  of  the  north — Drought — Locusts — Comparative 
immunity  of  a pastoral  country — Uruguayan  fauna — Some 
common  creatures  of  the  Campo — Bird  life — The  ostrich — Its 
value  as  a commercial  asset — The  trade  in  ostrich  feathers — 
Measures  for  the  protection  of  the  birds. 

CHAPTER  XXIV 

INDUSTRIES  AND  NATURAL  WEALTH  . . . 2J 6 

England’s  financial  stake  in  Uruguay — British  capital  invested  in 
the  Republic — Its  monetary  importance  compared  with  that 
of  other  South  American  nations — General  commercial  develop- 
ment of  the  country — A satisfactory  outlook — Progress  of  grazing 
and  agriculture — Marked  increase  in  commerce — Uruguay’s  ex- 
ports— Cured  meat  and  frozen  carcasses — Diminution  of  the 
former  trade,  increase  of  the  latter — Reasons  for  the  transforma- 
tion of  industry — An  outcome  of  Brazilian  protection — The 
breeding  of  fine  cattle  for  the  European  markets — Present  situa- 
tion of  the  world’s  meat  market — The  British  Isles  as  importers 


CONTENTS 


21 


PAGE 

of  meat — The  position  in  the  United  States — A change  from  the 
role  of  exporter  to  that  of  importer — The  increase  in  River  Plate 
shipments — Closeness  of  touch  between  South  American  and  Eng- 
lish markets — Probable  admission  of  foreign  meat  into  European 
countries — Intervention  of  the  United  States  Beef  Trust — Pur- 
chase of  Frigorificos — Possible  effects  of  a monopoly  upon  the 
producers — South  American  views  on  the  subject — Favourable 
general  position  of  the  River  Plate — The  balance  of  power  in 
beef — Extract  of  meat — The  Lemco  and  Oxo  Company — 
Ramifications  of  the  enterprise — The  town  of  Fray  Bentos — 
Agriculture — Wheat — Maize — Barley. 

CHAPTER  XXV 

INDUSTRIES  AND  NATURAL  WEALTH  (< Continued ) . . 286 

Minerals— Past  obstacles  to  the  proper  working  of  mines — Gold 
— Auriferous  prospects — Situation  of  the  goldfields  of  Uruguay 
— Past  and  present  workings  of  the  mines — Influence  of  politics 
on  labour — The  Corrales  mine — Manganese — Districts  in  which 
iron  ore  is  met  with — Mineral  centres — Minas — Maldonado — 

Silver — Copper — Marble — Gypsum — Slate — Sulphur  — Asbestos 
— Precious  stones — Diamonds  and  rubies — Jasper — Agate — The 
amethyst  and  topaz — The  waterstone — A peculiarity  of  Uruguay 
— Viticulture — Date  of  the  introduction  of  the  vine — Vicissitudes 
at  the  start— Consequent  rapid  progress — Vineyard  area  of  the 
present  day — The  introduction  of  suitable  plants — Countries  of 
origin — Production  of  grapes  and  wine — Departments  most 
suitable  to  the  industry — The  seal-fisheries — Originally  carried 
on  by  the  Indians — Habits  of  the  seals — Development  of  the 
industry — Government  grants — Conditions  and  concessions — 
Number  of  skins  obtained  since  1873 — Islands  inhabited  by  the 
seals — Method  of  killing  and  curing — Waste  of  seal  life — 
Suggestions  for  the  improvement  of  the  industry — Scientific 
measures  necessary — A diplomatic  incident  in  connection  with 
the  seal-fisheries. 

CHAPTER  XXVI 

COMMUNICATIONS  AND  COMMERCE  ....  296 

British  enterprise  in  South  America — The  various  industries 
controlled — The  railways  of  the  southern  continent — A remark- 
able record — The  opening  up  of  new  lands — Some  possibilities 
of  the  future — Sound  basis  on  which  the  extension  of  the  lines  is 
founded — Products  and  transport  facilities — -Probable  influence 
of  communications — Uruguayan  railways — A high  standard  of 
enterprise — Comfortable  travelling — Some  comparisons  between 
Uruguay  and  Argentina  as  railway  countries— Level  country 


22 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 


versus  hills — Stone  versus  alluvial  soil — Question  of  ballast — 
Importance  of  the  new  ramifications — Railway  construction  in 
Uruguay — History  of  the  lines — Government  obligations — Mile- 
age and  capital  of  the  companies — Interest  paid  on  capital — 
Various  railway  systems — Areas  served — The  Central  Company — 
Sketch  of  lines  and  extensions — Important  developments — The 
communication  with  Brazil — Financial  position  of  the  Company 
— Midland  Uruguay  Railway — Development  and  extension  of 
the  line — Receipts  and  expenses — The  North  Western  of 
Uruguay  and  Uruguay  Northern  Railway — Montevidean  tram- 
ways— Local,  British,  and  German  enterprise — Steamer  service 
of  the  River  Plate — The  Mihanovich  line — Ocean  passenger 
traffic — Montevideo  the  sole  port  of  call — The  Royal  Mail  Steam 
Packet  Company — The  Pacific  Line — The  Nelson  Line — Other 
British  companies — Position  of  British  exports — Sound  consular 
advice. 

CHAPTER  XXVII 

POLITICS  AND  REVOLUTIONS  . . . . 311 

The  Constitution  of  Uruguay — Government  of  the  Republic — 
Deputies  and  senators — Their  duties — The  civil  code — Marriage 
— Rights  of  foreigners — Law — The  Commission  of  Charity 
and  Public  Welfare — Hospitals — Orphan  asylums — Infirmaries 
— The  charity  hospital  lottery  — The  distribution  of  political 
parties — The  Color  ados  and  the  Blancos — Policy  of  either — Feud 
between  the  parties — Old-standing  strife — Explanation  of  the 
nomenclature — Origin  of  the  feud — Rivera  and  Oribe — Inherited 
views — Attitude  of  the  foreigners — Revolutions — Manner  of  the 
outbreak — Government  precautions — The  need  of  finance  and 
arms — Some  rebellious  devices — Rifles  as  Manchester  goods — 

The  importance  of  horses — Difficulties  that  attend  a revolutionary 
movement — The  sweeping  up  of  horses — Equine  concentration 
camps — A powerful  weapon  in  the  hands  of  the  authorities — 

First  signs  of  an  outbreak — Sylvan  rendezvous — The  question 
of  reinforcements — Some  desperate  ventures — Their  accustomed 
end — Chieftains  of  the  north — Effect  of  a revolution  upon  local 
industries — Needs  of  the  army — Estancia  hands  as  troopers — 
Hasty  equipment — Manner  in  which  actual  hostilies  are  con- 
ducted— “The  Purple  Land  that  England  lost” — The  spirit 
of  Modernism  and  the  internal  struggle — Tendency  to  localise 
the  fields  of  strife — Power  of  the  Colorado  party — Whence  the 
restrictive  partisans  are  drawn — Distinguishing  Insignia — Some 
necessary  precautions  on  the  part  of  the  foreigner — Adventures 
derived  from  colour  in  clothes — Some  ludicrous  episodes — The 
expense  of  revolution, 


INDEX 


• 343 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


CATHEDRAL  : MONTEVIDEO  . 

A RURAL  INN  , 

COUNTRY  COACH  AT  LA  SIERRA  STATION  . 
INDIAN  MACE  HEADS 
INDIAN  STONE  AXE  . 

A GAUCHO  RACE  : THE  START 
A GAUCHO  RACE  : THE  FINISH 
RUINED  COLONIA  . 

ARTIGAS*  MONUMENT 
MONTEVIDEO  AND  THE  CERRO  HILL 
“AFTER  CATTLE  )}  . 

LAGO  DEL  PRADO  : MONTEVIDEO  . 

THE  PRADO  : MONTEVIDEO 


. Frontispiece 

FACING  PAGE 

. . 28 

. . 28 

• 38 

• 38 

• 44 
■ 44 
. 52 

• 52 
. 88 
. 88 
. 124 

• I24 


24 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


FACING  PAGE 

THE  PRINCIPAL  PLAZA  : MONTEVIDEO  . . . 130 

THE  HARBOUR  : MONTEVIDEO  ....  130 
ANCIENT  STONES  EMPLOYED  FOR  NUT-CRUSHING  . . I40 

NATIVE  BOLEADORAS  ” .....  148 

SOLIS  THEATRE  AND  NATIONAL  MUSEUM  . . . 156 

THE  CERRO  FORT  . . . . . . 156 

THE  BEACH  AT  PARQUE  URBANO  ....  162 
THE  SAN  JOSE  ROAD  BRIDGE  ....  162 

EUCALYPTUS  AVENUE  : COLON  ....  l66 
OXEN  DRAWING  RAILWAY  COACH  ....  l86 
BEFORE  THE  FAIR  : TACUAREMBO  . . . . 1 86 

FRONTIER  STONE  AT  RIVERA  ....  I92 

TUNNEL  AT  BANADA  DE  ROCHA  ....  I92 
EUCALYPTUS  FOREST  : PIRIAPOLIS  ....  198 
THE  CASTILLO  : PIRIAPOLIS  . . . . 198 

THE  PAN  DE  AZUCAR  MOUNTAIN  ....  202 
THE  NEW  HOTEL:  PIRIAPOLIS  ....  202 
MERCEDES:  FROM  ACROSS  THE  RIO  NEGRO  . . 208 


ILLUSTRATIONS  25 

FACING  PAGE 

RIO  NEGRO  BRIDGE  . . . . .212 

ON  THE  RIO  NEGRO  . . . . .212 

COLONIA  : RUINED  FORTRESS  WALL  . . . 2l8 

A CAMPO  GRAVEYARD  . . . . . 2l8 

THE  BULL  RING  ......  222 

ON  THE  URUGUAY  RIVER  .....  230 

A URUGUAYAN  STREAM  .....  230 

CATTLE  ON  THE  ROAD  .....  234 

A CORNER  OF  THE  FRAY  BENTOS  FACTORY  . . 234 

A PASTORAL  SCENE  .....  238 

THE  BICHADERO  ESTANCIA  .....  246 

HEREFORD  CATTLE  ON  THE  BICHADERO  ESTANCIA  . 246 

ESTANCIA  HOUSE  : SAN  JUAN  ....  250 

CHALET  AT  COLONIA  SUIZA  ....  258 

THE  VINTAGE  : ESTANCIA  SAN  JUAN  . . . 258 

STREAM  ON  THE  SAN  JUAN  ESTANCIA  . . . 272 

THE  CATTLE  DIP  ......  280 

DRYING  JERKED  MEAT  .....  280 


26 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


FACING  PAGE 


A SEAL  ROOKERY  . 

BASKING  SEALS 
OX  WAGON  ON  THE  CAMPO 
CROSS-COUNTRY  TRAVELLING 
PEDIGREE  CATTLE  . 

OVEN  BIRD’S  NEST  . 


. 292 
. 292 
. 316 

• 3l(> 

• 320 

• 32° 


URUGUAY 


CHAPTER  I 

SURVEY 

Geographical  situation  of  the  Republic — Boundaries  and  area — Uruguay 
as  an  historical,  commercial,  and  financial  centre — The  respective 
positions  of  Uruguay  and  Paraguay — Disadvantages  of  a buffer  State — 
A land  of  sunshine  and  shadow — The  history  of  Uruguay — The 
blending  of  industry  and  warfare — Vitality  of  the  nation — Instances 
of  self-sacrifice — A South  American  Switzerland — A freedom-loving 
folk — Deeds  of  arms  and  the  undercurrents  of  commerce — Montevideo 
in  the  eyes  of  the  casual  traveller — Factors  that  make  for  the  progress 
of  the  Banda  Oriental — Influence  of  railway — Coming  cessation  of  the 
North  American  beef  shipments — Temperament  of  the  Uruguayan — 
Distinction  between  Argentine  and  Uruguayan  politics— -The  clans  of 
the  Banda  Oriental — The  birthright  of  party  convictions — Education 
in  Uruguay — National  points  of  honour — Liberty  accorded  the 
foreigner — The  courtesy  of  officials — An  incident  at  the  customs- 
house— Popularity  of  the  English — A gratifying  situation — Satisfactory 
international  relations — The  work  of  Mr.  R.  J.  Kennedy,  the  British 
Minister  Plenipotentiary — Uruguay’s  pacific  foreign  policy — Careful 
finance — Army  and  navy — General  progress  of  the  nation. 


Uruguay  may  be  described  as  a republic  of  com- 
paratively small  dimensions  sandwiched  in  between 
the  great  territories  of  Argentina  and  Brazil,  and 
bounded  on  the  south  by  the  Southern  Atlantic  Ocean 
and  the  estuary  of  the  River  Plate.  Its  actual  area, 
72,100  square  miles,  is  less  than  that  of  the  British 
Isles,  and  thus  the  Banda  Oriental,  to  use  the  name 

27 


28 


URUGUAY 


by  which  the  State  is  locally  known,  enjoys  the  dis- 
tinction of  being  the  smallest  of  the  South  American 
republics.  But,  although  this  distinction  applies  to 
actual  area,  it  serves  for  remarkably  little  else  in 
the  country.  Indeed,  an  astonishing  amount  is 
packed  within  the  frontiers  of  Uruguay.  In  the  first 
place  it  is  a land  where  much  history  has  been  made. 
Secondly,  to  turn  to  its  industrial  assets — although  I 
do  not  intend  to  deal  with  the  commercial  side  of 
the  Republic  more  fully  than  can  be  helped— it  is 
a country  where  many  cattle  are  bred.  Lastly,  it  is 
a place  in  which  no  less  than  fifty  million  pounds 
sterling  of  English  money  are  invested.  Thus  the 
small  Republic,  as  an  investment  field,  ranks  third 
in  importance  amongst  all  the  States  of  South 
America,  a fact  that  is  realised  by  remarkably  few 
outside  its  own  boundaries. 

Uruguay  and  Paraguay  are  frequently  confused 
by  those  quite  unfamiliar  with  South  American  affairs, 
owing  to  the  similarity  of  the  nomenclature.  In 
actual  fact  the  two  countries  have  very  little  in 
common,  save  in  their  political  situation.  Both 
separated  themselves  from  the  River  Plate  Provinces 
in  the  course  of  the  War  of  Independence,  since 
which  time  both  have  served  as  buffer  States  between 
Argentina  and  Brazil.  The  position  of  such  is  seldom 
enviable  at  the  best  of  times.  Upon  Uruguay  it  has 
worked  with  an  especial  degree  of  hardship,  since 
even  before  the  days  of  her  independence  it  was 
upon  her  suffering  soil  that  the  too  frequent  differ- 
ences between  Spaniard  and  Portuguese  were  fought 
out. 

As  to  the  international  jealousies  of  a later  era, 
they  have  not  been  without  their  influence  upon  the 
domestic  affairs  of  the  central  State.  Thus  on  not  k 
few  occasions  the  result  of  foreign  diplomacy  has 
been  civil  war  within  the  boundaries  of  Uruguay,  with 


A RURAL  INN. 


COUNTRY  COACH  AT  LA  SIERRA  STATION. 


To  face  p.  28. 


SURVEY 


29 


consequences  that  were  necessarily  disastrous  to  the 
nation.  The  Banda  Oriental  is  a land  of  sunshine, 
it  is  true,  but  one  of  shadow  too,  which  is  logical 
enough,  since  Without  the  former  the  latter  cannot 
obtain.  Its  metaphorical  sunshine  is  represented  by 
the  undoubted  merits  of  its  inhabitants,  its  temporary 
shadows  by  the  circumstances  in  which  they  have 
found  themselves  placed. 

He  would  be  no  real  friend  of  Uruguay  who  strove 
to  show  that  the  march  of  the  country  h,as  not  been 
rudely  arrested  on  innumerable  occasions.  Indeed, 
were  it  not  for  the  conditions  that  have  prevailed 
for  centuries,  the  actual  forward  steps  that  the 
Republic  has  effected  would  be  far  less  remarkable 
than  is  in  reality  the  case.  The  history  of  Uruguay 
reveals  a continuous  medley  of  peace  and  war.  Its 
swords  have  been  beaten  into  ploughshares  and 
welded  back  again  into  lethal  weapons  ere  the  metal 
had  cooled  from  the  force  of  the  former  operation. 

Each  series  of  such  transformations,  moreover,  has 
occurred  at  intervals  sufficiently  short  to  destroy 
utterly  the  hopes  and  prosperity  of  an  ordinary 
people.  Over  and  over  again  the  Uruguayans  have 
strewn  the  battlefields  with  their  dead ; yet  during 
each  interval  they  have  continued  to  plant  the  soil 
with  its  proper  and  more  profitable  seed.  An  extra- 
ordinary vitality  on  the  part  of  the  people  joined 
to  the  natural  wealth  of  the  land  have  been  the 
factors  by  means  of  which  the  small  Republic  has 
brushed  away  the  results  of  its  wars  as  lightly  as 
though  such  convulsions  were  summer  showers. 

The  history  of  Uruguay  reveals  an  admirable 
amount  of  pure  heroism.  Apart  from  the  fighting 
merits  that  are  inborn  and  natural  to  the  race,  the 
most  unsympathetic  reader  of  its  past  pages  cannot 
deny  to  it  the  innumerable  instances  of  self-sacrifice 
that  were  the  fruit  of  loftier  ideals.  Of  the  many 


30 


URUGUAY 


vivid  battle  scenes  that  were  painted  in  too  deadly 
an  earnest  against  their  neighbours  and  even  amongst 
themselves,  there  are  few  that  are  not  relieved  by, 
some  illuminating  act  of  heroism,  for  all  the  utter 
ferocity  and  courage  by  which  these  conflicts  were 
wont  to  be  marked.  Uruguay,  in  fact,  was  something 
of  a South  American  Switzerland ; but  a Switzerland 
bereft  of  the  lofty  peaks  and  mountain  tops  that 
assisted  the  men  of  the  Cantons  against  the  Austrians, 
endowed,  moreover,  with  a more  restless  and  un- 
disciplined folk  of  its  own.  Yet  in  many  respects  the 
resemblance  holds  good,  and  for  one  reason  most 
of  all.  The  Orientales  rested  not  until  they  had  won 
their  freedom.  Not  once  but  several  times  they  were 
forced  to  wrest  it  from  the  stranger  ere  it  finally 
became  secure. 

At  later  periods,  too,  it  is  not  to  be  denied  that 
the  greater  bulk  of  the  neighbouring  nations  has  stood 
out  remorselessly  between  Uruguay  and  the  sunlight. 
There  have  been  times  when  the  small  Republic 
has  been  ground  between  the  great  mills  of  Argentina 
and  Brazil.  Thus  her  progress — steady  and  all  but 
continuous  in  spite  of  the  civil  wars  and  revolutions 
that  have  torn  her — has  been  achieved  all  but  un- 
noticed and  entirely  unapplauded.  Europeans,  and 
many  South  Americans  too,  read  of  the  Uruguayan 
battlefields  and  deeds  of  arms,  yet  they  learn  nothing 
of  the  undercurrent  of  industry  that  has  flowed 
onwards  all  the  while  beneath  the  turbulence  of  the 
wild  warrings.  Nevertheless,  this  progress  has  been 
very  real,  and  that  it  must  become  apparent  to  the 
world  before  long  is  certain.  Even  to  the  present 
day  Uruguay  amongst  nations  has  remained  “ a violet 
by  a mossy  stone,  half  hidden  from  the  eye.”  To  the 
ordinary  person  who  passes  between  Europe  and 
South  America,  Montevideo  represents  little  beyond 
a whistling  station  between  the  two  important  halts 


SURVEY 


31 


at  Buenos  Aires  and  Rio  de  Janeiro.  In  justice  to 
the  Banda  Oriental’s  neighbour  be  it  said  that  this 
ignorance  does  not  apply  to  the  actual  resident  in 
Argentina,  and  least  of  all  to  the  dwellers  in  Buenos 
Aires.  To  them  the  commercial  importance  and 
general  attractions  of  Uruguay  and  its  capital  are 
well  enough  known.  This  interest,  however,  is  merely 
local,  and  fails  to  extend  beyond  the  familiar  radius 
of  the  pleasant  little  Republic’s  influence. 

Commercially  speaking,  it  is  difficult  to  understand 
how  the  factors  that  have  now  arisen  to  drag  the 
Banda  Oriental  from  its  undeserved  oblivion  can  well 
fail  in  their  task.  The  linking  of  the  country  by 
railway  with  Brazil,  the  influence  that  the  imminent 
cessation  of  the  North  American  beef  exportation 
is  bound  to  exert  upon  a stock-breeding  country,  to 
say  nothing  of  the  internal  progress  already  referred 
to,  must  undoubtedly  result  sooner  or  later  in  bring- 
ing the  gallant  little  nation  into  the  light  of  publicity. 

A fusion  of  warring  parties,  an  end  of  civil  strife, 
and  a strict  attention  to  the  less  risky  and  more 
profitable  business  of  the  day  should  follow  in  the 
natural  sequence  of  events.  Very  hale,  hearty,  and 
jovial  though  he  is,  it  must  be  admitted  that  the 
Oriental  is  in  deadly  earnest  when  engaged  in  civil 
battle — as  is  the  case  with  all  who  pursue  a hobby 
to  the  detriment  of  a more  lucrative  occupation. 
Yet  the  substitution  of  gunshots  for  the  suffrage  is 
not  only  expensive,  but,  from  the  polling  point  of 
view,  unpleasantly  devoid  of  finality. 

The  distinctions  between  the  political  arrangements 
of  Uruguay  and  Argentina  are  curiously  marked. 
For  generations  the  latter  country  has  been  governed 
by  a succession  of  groups  that  have  respectively 
formed  and  dissolved  without  leaving  any  marked 
cleavage  in  the  society  of  the  nation.  Strictly  speak- 
ing, Argentina  possesses  neither  faction  spirit  nor 


32 


URUGUAY 

party.  Uruguay,  on  the  other  hand,  is  concerned 
first  and  foremost  with  these  very  matters  of 
party. 

The  history  of  the  Colorados  and  the  Blancos — 
the  reds  and  whites — would  in  itself  suffice  to  fill  a 
volume.  Probably  in  no  other  part  of  the  world 
have  the  pure  considerations  of  clan  triumphed  to 
such  an  extent  over  the  general  political  situation. 
Until  the  present  day  the  line  between  the  rival 
camps  has  been  as  absolute  as  that  between  life 
and  death.  The  position  of  either  is  immutable. 
Neither  argument,  mode  of  government,  nor  the 
vicissitudes  of  state  are  among  the  considerations  by 
which  they  are  affected.  A man  is  born  one  of 
two  things — a Blanco  or  a Colorado.  This  birthright, 
moreover,  is  to  be  exchanged  for  no  mere  mess  of 
pottage;  it  is  valued  above  the  price  of  life  itself. 
Such,  at  all  events,  has  been  the  creed  of  the  past, 
and  to  a large  extent  it  still  holds  good,  although 
the  stress  of  modern  influence  is  just  beginning  to 
leave  its  mark  upon  the  cast-iron  prejudices  that  are 
the  relicts  of  another  age. 

At  the  same  time,  it  must  not  be  inferred  from 
this  that  the  Uruguayan  is  ignorant  or  small-minded. 
Far  from  it.  Education  enjoys  an  exceptionally  high 
standard  throughout  the  country,  and  a most  liberal 
breadth  of  view  is  typical  of  the  nation.  This  is 
readily  admitted,  and  even  insisted  upon,  by 
foreigners  whose  dealings  with  the  native-born 
dwellers  in  the  Republic  have  placed  them  in  a 
position  to  render  an  accurate  judgment.  In  internal 
politics,  however,  there  are  prejudices,  considerations 
of  clan,  and  points  of  honour  that  are  not  to  be 
gauged  from  a purely  commercial  standpoint. 

The  foreigner  in  Uruguay  is  accorded  a most 
complete  liberty,  and  there  are  few  of  these  who 
have  resided  for  any  length  of  time  within  its 


SURVEY 


33 


frontiers  who  have  not  become  very  truly  attached 
to  the  land  and  its  people. 

It  has  frequently  been  my  lot  to  pass  over  from 
Argentina  to  Uruguay,  arriving  at  one  of  the  minor 
ports  that  dot  the  middle  reaches  of  the  great  river. 
But  it  so  happened  that  I had  never  landed,  bag 
and  baggage,  at  the  capital  until  the  time  came  for 
a regular  and  organised  spying  out  of  the  land.  An 
incident  at  the  start  lent  a very  pleasing  aspect 
to  the  visit.  The  customs -house  officer,  in  whose 
hands  lay  the  fate  of  the  interior  of  my  baggage, 
gazed  from  where  it  lay  piled  upon  the  official 
trestle  in  the  direction  of  its  owner.  “ Inglez?  ” he 
demanded  in  the  curt  tone  of  one  in  authority.  When 
I had  signified  assent  he  smiled  cordially,  sketched 
with  rapid  fingers  the  magic  chalk  marks  upon  the 
impedimenta,  and  then  motioned  me  to  pass  through 
the  portals  with  all  the  honours  of  customs,  locks 
unviolafed,  and  straps  in  repose. 

I have  not  introduced  this  incident  from  any 
personal  motives.  It  merely  affords  an  instance  of 
a very  genuine  courtesy  rendered  to  the  nation 
through  the  medium  of  one  of  its  most  humble  units. 
Yet  it  is  from  such  attentions  to  a stranger  that  the 
trend  of  the  general  attitude  may  be  gleaned.  The 
English  are  not  a little  addicted  to  a frank  confession 
of  their  unpopularity  amongst  the  South  Americans 
in  general.  The  attitude  may  be  the  result  of  a 
certain  pose,  since  they  claim  full  credit  for  the 
respect  that  is  undoubtedly  theirs  by  right.  Never- 
theless, whether  imagined  or  real,  the  idea:  obtains. 

In  Uruguay  at  the  present  moment  the  English- 
man is  so  obviously  not  unpopular  that  it  is  gratify- 
ing to  be  able  to  proclaim  the  fact.  Whatever  the 
fates  may  have  in  store  the  existing  understanding 
between  the  Uruguayans  and  the  British  is  very 
cordial  and  complete.  In  words  as  well  as  in  deeds 

3 


34 


URUGUAY 


it  is  perhaps  advisable  to  let  well  alone.  Yet  it  is 
satisfactory  to  reflect  that  innumerable  practical 
proofs  show  that  this  mutual  esteem  which  has  existed 
for  centuries  has  never  been  more  firmly  grafted 
than  at  the  present  day.  There  can  be  no  doubt, 
moreover,  that  the  present  satisfactory  phase  is  very 
largely  due  to  the  efforts  of  Mr.  R.  J.  Kennedy,  the 
British  Minister  Plenipotentiary  and  Envoy  Extra- 
ordinary, whose  tact  and  conscientious  ability  have 
won  for  him  respect  and  popularity  on  the  part  of 
Uruguayans  and  resident  British  alike — a consumma- 
tion to  which  it  is  the  lot  of  sufficiently  few  ministers 
to  attain. 

Although  internal  disturbances  may  continue  to 
arise  from  time  to  time,  the  position  of  Uruguay  is 
now  undoubtedly  consolidated  to  a far  greater  extent 
than  has  ever  been  the  case  in  former  years.  The 
nation  that  sprang  into  being  at  the  commencement 
of  the  nineteenth  century  had  to  contend  with 
indefinite  frontiers  at  the  best  of  times,  and  with  the 
frequent  waves  of  turbulence  that  swept  inwards  over 
the  land  from  the  greater  centres  of  disturbance 
without  its  borders.  Now  for  many  decades  an  un- 
disturbed peace  has  characterised  the  foreign  affairs 
of  the  nation,  and  such  differences  as  have  occurred 
from  time  to  time  with  the  neighbouring  republics 
have  been  settled  in  an  essentially  pacific  and 
reasonable  spirit. 

A striking  instance  of  this  has  occurred  quite 
recently  in  the  case  of  the  vexed  question  concern- 
ing the  delimitation  of  neutral  waters  in  the  River 
Plate.  The  rights  affecting  a great  inland  and  inter- 
national highway  are  naturally  most  delicate  and 
difficult  to  adjust,  as  the  past  history  of  the  entire 
river  system  here  has  proved  on  numerous  occasions. 
In  this  particular  instance  had  either  Uruguay  or 
Argentina  shown  any  other  but  a fair  and  con- 


SURVEY 


35 


ciliatory  spirit,  the  consequences  cannot  fail  to  have 
been  serious  in  the  extreme.  As  it  was,  the  dispute 
was  brought  to  a satisfactory  and  amicable  con- 
clusion, much  to  the  credit  of  the  respective  diplo- 
matists concerned. 

For  many  years  now  the  policy  of  the  Banda 
Oriental  Government  has  been  practical  and 
deliberate.  In  matters  of  finance  extreme  caution 
has  been  exercised,  and  economy  in  expenditure  has 
been  rigid.  The  result  is  now  evident  in  the  very 
favourable  financial  position  of  the  Republic,  since 
it  is  now  endowed  with  more  solid  monetary  sinews 
than  has  ever  been  the  case  before.  The  nation, 
moreover,  is  free  from  any  excessive  expenditure  on 
its  army  and  navy.  Both  branches  of  the  service  are 
on  a small  scale,  and  in  this  moderation  Uruguay  is 
undoubtedly  wise ; since,  although  the  race  possesses 
its  fighting  instincts  to  the  full,  the  population  and 
resources  of  the  Republic  would  not  allow  it  to 
compete  either  in  numbers,  guns,  or  ships  with  the 
armies  of  the  neighbouring  countries,  or  with  the 
great  naval  armaments  that  are  being  brought 
together. 

In  the  past  there  is  no  doubt  that  matters  in 
Uruguay  have  been  regarded  with  a certain  amount 
of  pessimism — a gloomy  view  for  which  the  alleged 
instability  of  the  Government  was  chiefly  responsible. 
Were  all  that  has  been  said  on  this  head  strictly 
accurate,  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  condition  of 
the  country  would  be  parlous  indeed.  On  number- 
less occasions,  however,  the  reports  that  have  pre- 
vailed have  been  remarkable  merely  for  their 
exaggeration . Frequently,  moreover,  such  highly 
coloured — or  rather  darkened — pictures  have  been 
depicted  to  serve  interests  in  Europe  rather  than  in 
Uruguay.  Commercially  speaking,  it  is  surely  a 
matter  for  congratulation  that  even  such  a disturb- 


36 


URUGUAY 


ing  element  as  civil  strife  should  have  left  the, 
financial  solidity  of  the  Republic  unimpaired. 

This  point  of  view,  however,  is  merely  the  financial 
one — important  enough  in  its  place,  but  not  suffi- 
ciently overwhelming  to  eliminate  all  the  other 
interests  at  stake.  The  spirit  of  progress  has  been 
abroad,  not  only  in  the  ethics  of  the  pastures,  banks, 
and  business  houses,  but  in  the  more  subtle  fields 
of  science,  literature,  and  art  as  well.  This,  how- 
ever, is  not  the  place  in  which  to  introduce  details 
or  statistics  concerning  the  improvements  in  the 
various  ramifications  of  the  nation’s  existence.  For 
the  present  let  the  statement  suffice  that  in  no  direc- 
tion has  a retrograde  movement  been  perceptible: 
on  the  contrary,  a continuous  progress  has  been 
evident  in  almost  every  matter  from  the  curing  of 
beef  to  the  making  of  scholars — two  products  that 
are  equally  essential  to  the  welfare  of  the  land. 


CHAPTER  II 


HISTORY 

The  discovery  of  Uruguay — Reception  by  the  Indians — Juan  de  Solis  and 
his  fate — Navigation  of  the  River  Plate — Serrano  and  Magellanes — 
Rivalry  between  Spaniards  and  Portuguese — The  first  settlement  in  the 
Banda  Oriental— Aggressive  tactics  of  the  Indians — Forts  destroyed 
by  them — Colonisation  under  difficulties — The  introduction  of  cattle — 
A prophetic  move — Intervention  of  the  missionaries — Jesuit  settle- 
ments established — Uruguay’s  isolation  comes  to  an  end — Influence 
of  the  livestock — Cattle-raiders — The  first  Portuguese  invasion — Victory 
of  the  Spaniards,  assisted  by  native  auxiliaries — Treaties  and  their 
attendant  troubles — The  indecision  of  Old  Spain — Partial  extermination 
of  the  Indians — The  town  of  Colonia  as  a bone  of  contention — Intro- 
duction of  the  first  negro  slaves  into  the  provinces  of  the  River  Plate 
— Unrest  on  the  Spanish  main — Moreau,  the  buccaneer — The  fate  of 
his  expedition — Portuguese  invaders  expelled  by  the  Spaniards — A fort 
is  constructed  on  the  present  site  of  Montevideo. 

The  early  history  of  Uruguay  needs  but  cursory 
recapitulation,  since  its  episodes  form  part  and 
parcel  of  the  general  discovery  of  the  River  Plate. 
Juan  Diaz  de  Solis,  the  famous  explorer  of  the  great 
river,  was  the  first  leader  in  the  Spanish  service 
to  set  foot  on  Uruguayan  soil.  The  precise  point 
of  his  disembarkation  is  unknown,  but  it  is  certain 
enough  that  the  spot  lay  somewhere  just  to  the  north 
of  the  island  of  Martin  Garcia.  His  reception  at 
the  hands  of  the  hostile  Charrua  Indians,  who  at 
the  time  inhabited  the  district,  was  fatally  inhospit- 
able. Solis  and  many  more  of  the  landing  party  of 
fifty  who  accompanied  him  were  slain  by  these  natives 

37 


38 


URUGUAY 


almost  as  soon  as  they  had  landed,  and  the  dis- 
heartened expedition  returned  to  Spain. 

It  is  supposed  that  Rodriguez  Serrano  was  the  first 
to  sail  the  waters  of  the  Uruguay  River  proper. 
In  1520,  when  anchored  in  the  mouth  of  the  River 
Plate  on  his  way  to  the  South,  Magellane  is  sup- 
posed to  have  sent  this  subordinate  of  his  some 
distance  up  the  Uruguay.  There  is  much,  however, 
that  is  vague  in  the  history  of  these  particular  water- 
ways at  this  time.  A certain  material  reason  obtained 
for  the  mystery.  The  rivalry  between  the  Spaniards 
and  Portuguese  tended  towards  a concealment  on 
the  part  of  each  of  discoveries  that  affected  com- 
paratively unknown  and  debatable  areas.  Thus  there 
is  no  doubt  that  various  Portuguese  expeditions 
sailed  the  Uruguay  River  at  this  period;  but  the 
details  of  these  are  uncertain. 

In  1527  Spain,  fearing  the  possibilities  of  Portu- 
guese influence,  turned  her  attention  once  more  to 
the  great  river  system  of  the  South.  It  was  in 
that  year  that  Cabot  founded  the  fort  of  San 
Sebastian  on  the  Uruguayan  coast.  This,  at  the 
confluence  of  the  San  Salvador  River  with  the 
Uruguay,  was  the  first  Spanish  settlement  in  the 
country.  Its  existence  was  short-lived.  Attacked  by 
the  Charrua  Indians  in  1529,  the  fort  was  destroyed 
and  many  of  its  garrison  slain. 

After  this  little  was  heard  of  the  Uruguayan  coast 
until,  in  1552,  Irala,  the  famous  Governor  of  the 
River  Plate,  ordered  Captain  Juan  Romero  to  found 
a settlement  on  that  shore.  Juan  Romero  set  out 
with  an  expedition  of  120  men,  and  founded  the 
settlement  of  San  Juan  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of 
the  same  name.  This  attempt  was  likewise  unsuccess- 
ful. The  Charruas  had  to  be  reckoned  with,  and 
two  years  later  the  place  was  abandoned  on  account 
of  their  incessant  attacks. 


INDIAN  STONE  AXE. 


INDIAN  MACE  HEADS. 


To  face  p.  38, 


HISTORY 


39 


In  1573  another  noted  conquistador , Zarate,  on 
the  completion  of  his  voyage  from  Europe,  arrived 
at  the  island  of  San  Gabriel.  He  founded  a settle- 
ment on  the  neighbouring  Uruguayan  mainland,  and 
the  Charruas  for  once  received  him  with  comparative 
hospitality.  Nevertheless  it  was  not  long  ere  hostili- 
ties broke  out,  by  reason  of  the  Spaniard’s  own 
arrogance,  it  is  said.  In  the  end  the  Europeans  were 
completely  defeated  by  the  famous  chief  Zapican, 
losing  over  one  hundred  soldiers  and  various  officers. 
The  Spaniards  then  retired  to  the  island  of  San 
Gabriel,  leaving  the  aboriginal  tribe  in  possession 
of  the  new  township,  which  they  immediately 
destroyed. 

A short  while  after  this  Juan  de  Garay,  afterwards 
famed  as  the  founder  of  the  modern  Buenos  Aires, 
arrived  near  the  scene  of  the  disaster.  With  a 
diminutive  force  (it  is  said  by  some  that  his  expedi- 
tion comprised  no  more  than  twelve  cavalry  and 
twenty-two  infantry)  he  attacked  Zapican’s  army  of 
a thousand  men.  The  result  was  the  rout  of  the 
Indians,  in  the  course  of  which  Zapican  and  many 
other  leading  caciques  perished.  This  action  was 
fought  in  the  neighbourhood  of  ruined  San  Salvador, 
and  Zarate  founded  a new  settlement  on  the  ruins 
of  the  old.  Triumph,  however,  was  short-lived,  for 
the  Indians  remained  as  fiercely  persevering  as 
ever,  and  three  years  later  their  aggressive 
tactics  caused  the  establishment  to  be  abandoned 
once  again. 

In  1603  it  is  said  that  Hernando  Arias  de 
Saavedra,  the  first  colonial-born  Governor  of  the 
River  Plate,  led  an  expedition  of  five  hundred  men 
against  tha  Charruas.  Hernandarias,  by  which  name 
the  Governor  was  popularly  known,  was  a famous 
warrior  of  whose  prowess  and  feats  of  arms  much 
is  told.  For  all  that,  according  to  report,  the  defeat 


40 


URUGUAY 


of  the  Spanish  force  was  so  complete  that  only 
Hernandarias,  thanks  to  his  tremendous  personal 
strength,  escaped  from  the  field  alive.  It  is  probable, 
however,  that  this  version  of  the  fight  is,  to  say  the 
least  of  it,  exaggerated. 

The  next  move  of  Hernandarias  in  the  direction 
of  the  Banda  Oriental  was  of  a more  pacific  nature. 
With  a rare  touch  of  wisdom  and  foresight  he  shipped 
from  Buenos  Aires  to  Colonia  across  the  river  one 
hundred  head  of  cattle,  and  a like  number  of  horses 
and  mares.  These,  sent  adrift  to  roam  at  their  own 
sweet  will  in  the  new  country,  multiplied  at  least  as 
fast  as  had  been  anticipated.  The  animals  in  question 
undoubtedly  stand  as  the  nucleus  of  the  pastoral 
riches  of  to-day.  Thus  Hernandarias  sent  out  wealth 
to  the  land  that  was  closed  to  his  men  in  order 
that  it  should  seed  and  multiply  until  the  time  cafne 
for  the  European  to  take  it  over  with  the  country 
itself. 

In  this  earlier  era  of  River  Plate  history  the  march 
of  civilisation  had  been  arrested  at  the  first  step  in 
Uruguay  on  each  occasion  on  which  it  had  been 
undertaken.  It  was  not  until  the  beginning  of  the 
seventeenth  century  that  success  attended  the 
endeavours  of  the  Spaniards.  In  1618  the  first 
missionaries  entered  Uruguay.  The  Franciscan 
fathers  Bernardo  de  Guzman,  Villavicencio,  and 
Aldao  landed  in  that  year  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rio, 
and  converted  to  Christianity  many  members  of  the 
more  peaceably  disposed  tribes.  In  1624  Bernardo 
de  Guzman  founded  the  first  Uruguayan  Jesuit  settle- 
ment, Santo  Domingo  de  Soriano,  and  a little  later 
the  missions  of  Espinillo,  Viboras,  and  Aldao  were 
established  in  the  present  provinces  of  Soriano  and 
Colonia.  Larger  and  more  important  missions  were 
shortly  afterwards  founded  in  the  north,  and  formed 
a more  or  less  integral  portion  of  the  great  Jesuit 


HISTORY 


41 


field  in  Paraguay.  At  one  time  there  were  no  less 
than  thirty-seven  of  these  stations  existing  within 
the  frontiers  of  the  old  Banda  Oriental  as  they  were 
then  defined.  In  consequence  of  the  later  Brazilian 
encroachments,  however,  the  sites  of  only  seven  of 
these— San  Francisco  de  Borga,  San  Nicolas,  San 
Juan  Bautista,  San  Luis  Gonzaga,  San  Miguel,  San 
Lorenzo,  and  Santa  Angel— lie  within  the  boundaries 
of  the  present  Republic. 

tWhile  in  the  north  of  Uruguay  the  Indians,  taught 
by  the  missionaries,  were  now  beginning  to  occupy 
themselves  with  agriculture  and  grazing,  in  the  south 
the  herds  introduced  by  Hernandarias  were  multiply- 
ing amazingly.  These  were  responsible  for  the  visits 
of  many  who  came  over  from  Argentina  to  slay 
the  cattle  and  to  collect  their  hides.  They  were 
licensed  by  the  Cabildo  of  Buenos  Aires,  who  received 
a third  of  the  profits.  In  order  to  facilitate  this 
traffic  in  hides,  these  Faeneros , as  they  were  termed, 
gradually  established  themselves  upon  the  banks  of 
the  Uruguay  and  its  tributaries,  and  upon  the  ocean 
coast.  Thus  the  names  of  Cufre,  Pa  von,  Toledo, 
Pando,  Solis,  Maldonado,  and  many  others  have  been 
bequeathed  to  the  soil  by  the  merchant  adventurers 
who  trafficked  in  those  spots,  since  each  named  his 
settlement  after  himself. 

No  litle  competition  was  afforded  these  Faeneros 
by  the  Changadores,  adventurers  of  a more  reckless 
order  who  made  their  incursions  into  the  country 
without  licence  and  against  the  law.  Corresponding 
precisely  to  the  buccaneers  of  the  farther  north,  they 
slew  where  opportunity  offered,  taking  refuge  in 
Brazil  when  pursued,  until  their  growing  numbers 
enabled  them  from  time  to  time  to  offer  armed  resist- 
ance to  the  officers  of  the  Crown  sent  to  chastise 
them.  Attracted  by  this  commerce,  pirates,  whether 
of  Portuguese  or  other  nationality,  would  occasionally 


42 


URUGUAY 


make  descents,  and  would  raid  and  harry  the  cattle 
in  their  turn.  The  Indians,  for  their  part,  were 
not  slow  in  availing  themselves  of  this  new  and  con- 
venient source  of  livelihood,  and,  according  to  a 
Uruguayan  writer  became  “ carnivorous  from 
necessity  and  equestrian  from  force  of  imitation.” 
In  1680  a more  serious  danger  threatened  the  Banda 
Oriental.  At  the  beginning  of  that  year  a Portuguese 
fleet  came  to  anchor  off  the  island  of  San  Gabriel. 
Eight  hundred  soldiers  and  a number  of  colonist 
families  were  disembarked  at  Colonia  del  Sacramento 
on  the  mainland,  where  they  founded  a township. 
On  learning  of  this  invasion  the  Governor  of  Buenos 
Aires,  Jose  de  Garro,  immediately  demanded  the 
evacuation  of  the  place.  As  a reply  to  this  request, 
Lobo,  the  Portuguese  commander,  triumphantly  pro- 
duced a map  on  which  Colonia  was  represented  as 
in  Brazilian  territory.  A strenuous  geographical  dis- 
cussion ensued,  at  the  conclusion  of  which  Garro, 
having  failed  to  convince  the  intruders  of  the 
inaccuracy  of  the  chart  by  more  subtle  arguments, 
resolved  to  expel  the  enemy  by  force. 

With  this  end  in  view  he  obtained  the  loan  of  three 
thousand  Indians  from  the  Jesuits,  who  were  by  this 
time  becoming  accustomed  to  the  lending  of  men 
and  arms  for  such  patriotic  purposes.  With  this 
force,  stiffened  by  the  presence  of  three  hundred 
Spaniards,  he  captured  the  hostile  settlement,  taking 
prisoners  the  Portuguese  Governor  and  garrison. 

It  is  related  that  the  Spanish  general  had  prepared 
a striking  ruse  de  guerre  that  was  to  serve  in  this 
assault.  Four  thousand  loose  horses  were  to  be 
driven  to  the  front  of  the  charging  forces,  and  upon 
these  animals  the  first  devastation  of  the  artillery 
fire  of  the  defenders  was  to  expend  itself.  The 
Indians,  however,  whose  destined  place  was  in  the 
vanguard,  raised  some  powerful  objections  to  this 


HISTORY 


43 


scheme  of  attack.  Considering  with  reason  that  a 
backward  rush  of  the  wounded  and  terrified  beasts 
— like  that  of  the  elephants  of  a’  previous  age — would 
promise  greater  disaster  to  themselves  than  to  the 
enemy,  they  protested  against  the  living  bulwark  with 
its  many  possibilities.  Thus  the  town  was  captured 
without  the  aid  of  the  horses,  and  the  first  of  the 
many  combats  that  reddened  the  shore  of  Colonia 
ended  in  favour  of  Spain. 

This  triumph  was  short-lived.  In  1681  Carlos  II. 
of  Spain  in  a weak  moment  signed  a treaty  by  which 
Colonia  was  given  back  to  Portugal,  to  be  held  by  her 
until  a definite  decision  could  be  arrived  at  concern- 
ing the  vexed  question  of  ownership.  In  the  mean- 
while it  was  arranged  that  the  geographical  argu- 
ments should  be  settled  by  the  pontifical  authorities, 
whose  expert  knowledge  upon  the  point  was  doubt- 
ful. The  Portuguese,  moreover,  in  order  to  obtain 
an  added  salve  to  their  dignity,  stipulated  that  Garro 
should  be  deprived  of  his  post.  This  was  complied 
with;  but  the  result  did  not  in  the  least  coincide 
with  the  Portuguese  expectations.  Garro  himself 
must  have  smiled  broadly  when  he  learned  that  he 
was  deprived  of  his  command  at  Buenos  Aires  in 
order  to  take  over  the  superior  governorship  of 
Chile  1 

In  1702  a campaign  was  waged  against  the 
Indians.  The  tactics  of  the  majority  of  the  tribes 
had  remained  consistently  aggressive,  and  their 
predatory  interest  in  the  commerce  of  hides  and 
dried  meat  had  developed  to  a pitch  inconvenient 
to  the  settlers.  The  war,  although  its  scope  did  not 
include  the  entire  aboriginal  population,  was  one  of 
extermination  so  far  as  it  went,  and  at  its  conclusion 
the  sections  of  the  Charruas,  Bohanes,  and  Yaros  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  River  Yi  had  practically 
ceased  to  exist. 


44 


URUGUAY 


In  the  meanwhile  Colonia,  in  the  hands  of  the 
Portuguese,  had  become  the  centre  of  contraband 
operations  by  means  of  which  merchandise  was 
smuggled  into  the  sternly  closed  port  of  Buenos 
Aires.  As  a point  of  vantage  it  served  so  admirably 
for  this  purpose,  and  so  greatly  to  the  profit  of  both 
the  Portuguese  and  of  the  more  unscrupulous 
residents  of  Buenos  Aires,  that  in  1705  Philip  V. 
of  Spain  ordered  its  recapture  in  earnest. 

For  this  purpose  two  thousand  Spaniards  and  four 
thousand  Jesuit  Indians  assembled.  After  a six 
months’  strenuous  siege  of  the  place  the  Portuguese 
garrison  fled  in  a fleet  that  had  been  sent  to  their 
rescue,  and  Colonia  passed  back  into  the  hands  of 
the  Spaniards.  But  the  vicissitudes  of  the  spot  were 
not  yet  at  an  end.  Oblivious  of  the  past,  Philip  V. 
by  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht  in  1713  ceded  the  town  to 
the  Portuguese.  Garcia  Ros,  the  Governor  of  Buenos 
Aires,  was  of  sterner  mould.  Taking  advantage  of 
a loosely  worded  clause  in  the  treaty,  he  limited  the 
Portuguese  ownership  of  the  soil  to  the  radius  of  a 
cannon-shot  from  the  plaza  of  the  town.  By  this 
means  the  inconvenience  of  the  occupation  was  to 
a certain  extent  neutralised. 

About  this  time  negro  slaves  were  first  introduced 
from  Africa  into  the  provinces  of  the  River  Plate. 
This  measure  had  been  originally  urged  by  the 
famous  Father  Bartolome  de  las  Casas  with  a view 
of  augmenting  the  local  force  of  labour,  and  thus 
of  alleviating  the  condition  of  the  aboriginal  races 
that  in  many  parts  were  becoming  exterminated  on 
account  of  the  excess  of  toil  imposed  upon  them. 
This  state  of  affairs,  as  a matter  of  fact,  did  not 
obtain  in  the  Banda  Oriental,  where  Indian  and 
Spaniard  stood  entirely  apart.  Nevertheless  an  influx 
of  negroes  occurred  in  the  province,  and — though 
nothing  can  be  said  in  favour  of  the  morality  of  the 


A GAUCHO  RACE  : THE  START. 


A GAUCHO  RACE  : THE  FINISH. 


To  face  p.  44. 


HISTORY 


45 


proceeding — there  is  no  doubt  that,  once  arrived,  their 
presence  tended  to  benefit  the  industries  of  the  land. 

The  period  now  was  one  of  considerable  unrest 
throughout  the  Spanish  main.  For  some  while  the 
adventurers  of  other  nations,  seeking  a share  in  the 
great  riches  of  the  South  American  provinces,  had 
been  knocking  loudly  at  the  gates  that  remained 
closely  barred  to  them.  Privateering  and  raids  upon 
the  coast  had  become  more  and  more  frequent,  while 
the  Spanish  galleons,  in  continuous  dread  of  attack, 
only  put  to  sea  for  the  purpose  of  long  voyages  in 
imposing  numbers  and  beneath  weighty  escort.  The 
River  Plate,  owing  to  the  practical  absence  of  the 
mineral  traffic  from  its  frontier,  suffered  far  fewer 
depredations  than  fell  to  the  lot  of  the  gold  and  silver 
bearing  countries  to  the  north. 

Yet  the  homelier  riches  of  the  pastoral  districts 
were  becoming  known  and  appreciated  to  a certain 
extent.  In  consequence  of  this  the  waters  of  the 
River  Plate  from  time  to  time  had  many  unwelcome 
visitors.  Privateers  of  all  nationalities,  although  their 
enforced  ignorance  of  the  navigation  forbade  them 
to  penetrate  for  any  distance  up  the  waters  of  the 
great  streams  themselves  in  the  face  of  local  opposi- 
tion, harassed  the  coast-line,  and  occasionally  landed 
in  more  or  less  formidable  parties.  One  of  the  most 
notable  of  these  was  a French  adventurer  of  the 
name  of  Moreau,  whose  buccaneering  ideas  were 
considerably  in  advance  of  those  of  the  majority 
who  were  wont  to  harry  these  particular  districts. 
Moreau’s  plan  of  campaign,  in  fact,  savoured  rather 
of  regular  warfare  than  of  the  more  usual  methods 
of  the  rapid  raidings  and  retreats.  Thus  in  1720  he 
disembarked  with  a body  of  men  and  four  cannon 
at  Maldonado,  where  he  fortified  himself,  and  began 
to  amass  a great  store  of  hides.  Surprised  by  the 
Spaniards,  he  was  forced  to  take  to  his  ships  in  haste, 


46 


URUGUAY 


with  the  loss  of  his  guns  and  of  his  stock-in-trade. 
A few  months  later  the  Frenchman  returned,  accom- 
panied this  time  by  a force  of  over  a hundred  well- 
armed  men,  and  prepared  to  settle  himself  for  an 
extended  stay  in  the  country.  Curiously  enough,  it 
appears  to  have  been  the  unfortunate  Moreau’s  fate 
to  reverse  the  fighting  roles  of  the  buccaneer  and 
local  resident,  since,  instead  of  surprising  others,  it 
was  he  who  was  caught  unawares  on  either  occasion. 
The  termination  of  his  second  visit  was  more  fatal 
than  that  of  his  first.  Attacked  when  in  an  unpre- 
pared condition  by  the  Spaniards,  the  defeat  of  the 
buccaneer  force  was  complete.  Moreau  himself  was 
slain,  together  with  the  greater  part  of  his  company, 
while  the  remainder  were  taken  prisoners. 

Freed  from  this  source  of  danger,  the  inhabitants 
of  the  Banda  Oriental  were  not  long  left  without 
anxiety  on  another  head.  The  Portuguese  Tad  never 
ceased  to  covet  the  rich  land  that  might  be  made  to 
serve  as  such  a valuable  and  temperate  pendant  to 
their  torrid  northern  areas.  The  River  Plate  stood 
to  them  in  the  light  of  a Rhine,  and  at  the  end  of 
1723  they  awoke  once  more  into  aggressive  activity. 
An  expedition  then  left  Rio  de  Janeiro  consisting 
of  four  ships  with  three  hundred  soldiers.  The  force 
sailed  to  the  point  where  the  town  of  Montevideo  now 
stands,  at  that  time  a lonely  spot  whose  commercial 
and  strategic  importance  was  then  for  the  first  time 
discovered.  Here  the  expedition  landed,  and  in  a 
short  while  its  leaders  had  negotiated  with  the  natives 
whom  they  found  in  the  district,  had  supplied  them 
with  arms,  and  had  founded  a settlement.  On  learn- 
ing of  this  aggression  the  Buenos  Aires  authorities 
determined  to  resist  the  attempt  in  earnest.  Gavala, 
the  Spanish  Governor,  collected  a powerful  fleet,  and 
sailed  in  haste  to  the  spot.  The  Portuguese,  ascer- 
taining the  strength  of  the  attacking  force,  abandoned 


HISTORY 


47 


their  new  settlement,  and  made  off  to  the  north  with- 
out awaiting  its  arrival.  Gavala  then  took  possession 
of  Montevideo  in  turn,  and  took  measures  in  order 
to  prevent  a repetition  of  the  incident.  To  this  end 
he  constructed  a powerful  battery  on  the  spot, 
and  supplied  the  fort  with  a garrison  of  a hun- 
dred Spanish  troops,  and  with  a thousand  native 
auxiliaries. 


CHAPTER  III 


HISTORY — continued 

Founding  of  the  city  of  Montevideo— Its  first  inhabitants — Inducement 
offered  to  colonists— The  early  days  of  the  town — Successful  rising 
of  the  Indians  in  the  neighbourhood — Victory  of  the  natives — 
Montevideo  saved  by  Jesuit  intervention — The  Portuguese  invade 
the  northern  provinces — The  first  Governor  of  Montevideo— Treaties 
and  territorial  cessions — Dissatisfaction  of  Jesuit  Indians— Their 
defeat  by  combined  Spanish  and  Portuguese  forces — Vicissitudes  of 
Colonia — The  danger  of  hostile  residents — A concentration  camp  of 
the  old  days — Expulsion  of  the  Jesuits — Some  incidents  of  the  wars 
with  the  Portuguese — The  foundation  of  urban  centres — The  English 
occupy  themselves  with  the  whaling  industry  on  the  coast — Dis- 
couragement of  the  enterprise  by  the  King  of  Spain — A corps  of 
Blandengues  is  created — The  British  invasion — Political  effects  of 
the  occupation — The  war  of  independence — Montevideo  as  the  seat 
of  the  Spanish  viceroyalty  — Commencement  of  the  agitation  for 
freedom  in  Uruguay. 


On  the  24th  of  December,  1726,  was  founded  the 
city,  proper  of  Montevideo.  Its  inception  was 
sufficiently  modest.  Indeed,  the  spot  commenced  its 
urban  existence  on  a]  human  diet  of  seven  families 
translated  from  Buenos  Aires  for  the  purpose.  A 
little  later  twenty  families  were  brought  from  the 
Canary  Islands  to  add  to  the  humble  population. 
It  is  not  a little  curious  to  read  how,  even  in  those 
early  days,  the  spirit  of  colonial  enterprise  was 
already  manifest  in  the  way  that  is  now  considered 
most  up-to-date.  Intending  immigrants  to  Monte- 
video were  each  offered  free  transport  from  Buenos 
Aires,  plots  in  the  city  and  holdings  in  the  Campo, 

48 


HISTORY 


49 


two  hundred  head  of  cattle,  one  hundred  sheep,  and 
free  cartage  of  building  material.  They  were 
offered,  beyond,  tools,  agricultural  implements,  and 
a remission  of  taxes  for  a certain  period.  The  whole 
savours  strongly  of  a modern  immigration  depart- 
ment. In  any  case,  the  inducements  offered  were 
considerable. 

Two  years  after  its  foundation  Montevideo 
received  an  important  reinforcement  of  citizens, 
when  thirty  families  from  the  Canary  Islands  and 
from  Galicia  were  introduced  into  the  place.  Thus 
the  small  town  was  already  beginning  to  make  its 
mark  upon  the  surrounding  country,  and  at  the  end 
of  1728  it  could  count  over  two  hundred  inhabitants, 
four  hundred  troops,  and  a thousand  Indians 
employed  principally  in  the  works  of  fortification. 
A couple  of  years  later  it  was  deemed  worthy  of  a 
corporation . 

Nevertheless,  in  this  very  year  the  growing  settle- 
ment all  but  came  to  a bloody  and  untimely  end. 
A rising  of  the  Charrua  Indians  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood  of  Montevideo  resisted  all  the  efforts 
made  to  subdue  it.  Over  one  hundred  Spaniards 
were  slain  and  the  royal  forces  put  to  rout.  The 
natives,  drunk  with  success,  were  on  the  eve  of 
entering  Montevideo  and  of  slaughtering  the 
inhabitants,  when  a Jesuit  missionary,  Padre  Heran, 
intervened,  and  prevailed  on  the  Indians  to  desist 
from  their  purpose. 

Scarcely  had  this  danger  passed  when  another,  and 
remoter,  came  into  being  to  take  its  place.  The 
restless  Portuguese  having  given  peace  to  the  Banda 
Oriental  for  ten  years,  doubtless  considered  the  period 
unduly  prolonged,  and  thus  invaded  the  Rio  Grande 
on  the  northern  frontier.  Lavala’s  successor,  Don 
Miguel  de  Salcedo,  a ruler  as  impotent  as  the  first 
had  been  strong,  contented  himself  with  besieging 

4 


50 


URUGUAY 


Colonia  as  <£  counter-stroke,  while  the  Portuguese 
forces  were  left  free  to  complete  the  conquest  of 
Rio  Grande.  This  they  continued  to  hold,  despite 
the  terms  of  an  armistice  arranged  in  1737,  between 
Spain  and  Portugal. 

For  ten  years  after  this  no  historical  event  of 
importance  occurred  to  disturb  the  progress  of 
Uruguay.  In  1747  a rising  of  the  Indians  was 
utterly  crushed  at  Queguay,  and  two  years  later 
Montevideo,  now  acknowledged  as  a town  of 
importance,  was  accorded  a Governor  of  its  own. 
Don  Jose  Joaquin  de  Viana  was  the  first  appointed 
to  the  post.  His  opinion  of  its  urgency  is  evident 
from  the  fact  that  he  only  took  office  in  1751. 

By  the  treaty  of  1750  King  Ferdinand  VI.  of 
Spain  ceded  to  Portugal  the  northern  stretches  com- 
prising the  Jesuit  Missions  of  Uruguay  and  the 
present  province  of  Rio  Grande  in  exchange  for 
Colonia.  As  a stroke  of  commercial  diplomacy  the 
bargain  was  undoubtedly  a failure,  since  by  its  means 
Spain  not  only  lost  for  ever  two  flourishing 
provinces,  but,  in  addition,  the  Jesuits  and  their 
Indians  were  obliged  to  forsake  the  field  of  thein 
labours,  and  to  migrate  in  search  of  fresh  country. 

This,  however,  was  not  the  case  with  all  alike. 
A large  number  of  the  Indians,  deeply  attached  to 
the  neighbourhoods  wherein  lay  their  homes,  refused 
to  follow  the  missionaries,  and  in  the  end  resisted  the 
unwelcome  decree.  Pitted  against  the  combined 
forces  of  Buenos  Aires,  Uruguay,  and  Brazil,  their 
cause  had  not  a momentary  chance  of  success.  After 
suffering  various  defeats,  they  were  finally  routed 
and  almost  exterminated  at  Caaibate  in  1756,  when 
the  native  loss  amounted  to  154  prisoners  and  1,200 
dead,  at  the  very  moderate  Spanish  cost  of  4 dead 
and  41  wounded.  The  character  of  the  action  is 
sufficiently  evident  from  the  butcher’s  bill.  A 


HISTORY 


51 


certain  number  of  the  surviving  Indians  were  taken 
to  Maldonado,  and,  settling  there,  formed  the  nucleus 
of  the  present  town. 

In  the  meanwhile  Colonia,  whose  inhabitants  by 
this  time  must  have  been  rendered  giddy  by  the  con- 
tinuous substitution  of  bunting,  had  again  passed 
into  the  possession  of  the  Portuguese.  The  recur- 
rence of  war  between  these  and  the  Spaniards  gave 
Pedro  de  Ceballos,  an  able  and  energetic  Governor 
of  Buenos  Aires,  an  opportunity  to  act.  In  1762 
he  surprised  Colonia,  captured  it,  and  was  in  the 
act  of  invading  the  ceded  territory  of  Rio  Grande 
when  the  Treaty  of  Paris  came  inopportunely  into 
being  to  stay  him  in  his  path  of  conquest,  and  to 
give  back  Colonia,  that  bone  of  contention,  to  the 
Portuguese  once  more. 

This  occurred  in  1763,  and  Ceballos  was  power- 
less to  struggle  further  against  a fate  that  caused 
victory  to  be  followed  by  the  loss  of  provinces. 
Nevertheless,  he  took  various  measures  towards  the 
preservation  of  the  remaining  territory.  One  of 
the  most  important  of  these  was  concerned  with  the 
numerous  Portuguese  families  that  were  settled  along 
the  eastern  frontier  of  the  country.  Having  reason 
to  believe  that  these  were  hatching  further  warlike 
schemes  in  conjunction  with  the  authorities  across  the 
border,  Ceballos  caused  them  to  be  taken  south,  and 
to  be  collected  together  in  a small  settlement  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Maldonado,  where  they  could 
remain  under  the  watchful  eye  of  the  Uruguayan 
officials. 

In  1767  the  expulsion  of  the  Jesuits  from  South 
America  by  King  Carlos  III.  of  Spain  proved  of  no 
little  moment  to  the  Banda  Oriental,  since  many 
of  the  Indians,  wandering  shepherdless  and  at  a loss, 
came  southwards,  and  became  part  and  parcel  pf 
Uruguay.  It  was  by  means  of  twelve  of  these  Indian 


52 


URUGUAY 


families  that  the  city  of  Paysandu,  amongst  several 
others,  was  founded,  while  the  fields  of  Montevideo 
and  Maldonado  derived  many  new  cultivators  from 
this  source. 

It  was  but  a very  few  years  later  that  the  trouble 
with  the  Portuguese  broke  out  once  again.  Indeed, 
it  would  seem  that  indulgence  in  border  feud  had 
now  become  an  ineradicable  habit  on  the  part  of 
both  sides.  By  the  year  1774  the  inhabitants  ;of 
Brazil  had  once  again  passed  over  the  north-western 
frontier,  and  had  spread  themselves  over  the  country 
in  such  numbers  as  to  render  their  presence  a menace 
to  Uruguay.  In  order  to  remedy  the  situation,  Vertiz, 
the  Governor  of  Buenos  Aires,  crossed  from  Buenos 
Aires  to  Montevideo,  from  which  city  he  sallied  out 
northwards  with  an  army  of  four  thousand  men. 
Meeting  with  the  Portuguese  forces  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Santa  Tecla  range,  he  routed  them 
and  pursued  them  as  far  as  the  River  Yacuy, 
depriving  them  of  the  lands  they  had  usurped. 

On  the  return  of  Vertiz  to  Buenos  Aires,  Portu- 
guese aggression  burst  forth  once  again.  Advancing 
from  the  east  this  time,  they  were  repulsed  in  an 
attack  on  the  town  of  San  Pedro  ; but  in  1776, 
returning  with  an  army  of  two  thousand  men,  they 
captured  the  place  and  possessed  themselves  of  the 
district.  The  inevitable  counter-stroke  on  the  part 
of  the  Spaniards  was  to  follow.  Indeed,  the  scale 
of  the  struggle  waxed  steadily  with  the  growth  of  the 
respective  countries.  Brazil  was  already  the  seat  of 
a viceroyalty,  and  immediately  after  this  last  invasion 
the  provinces  of  the  River  Plate  were  raised  to  the 
same  status.  Ceballos,  then  on  a visit  to  Spain, 
was  created  first  Viceroy,  and  was  dispatched  from 
Cadiz  with  a powerful  fleet  and  with  over  nine 
thousand  troops  to  avenge  the  incursion. 

With  such  forces  as  these  at  his  disposal  the  task 


RUINED  COLONIA. 


ARTIGAS’  MONUMENT. 


To  face  p.  52 


HISTORY 


53 


of  Ceballos  was  an  easy  one.  The  Island  of  Santa 
Catalina  was  captured  without  a blow,  and  that  bone 
of  contention,  Colonia,  surrendered  perforce  after 
a few  days  of  siege.  Above  its  walls  for  the  fifth 
time  the  flag  of  Spain  was  hoisted  afresh.  On  this 
occasion  the  ill-omened  place  was  destined  to  pay 
for  the  memories  of  the  past,  and  its  walls  suffered 
in  place  of  the  garrison.  In  order  to  remove  tempta- 
tion from  the  minds  of  the  northern  enemy,  Ceballos 
razed  the  elaborate  fortifications  to  the  ground  and 
destroyed  the  more  pretentious  houses,  amongst  these 
being  some  of  the  best  architectural  specimens  of  the 
River  Plate. 

Having  effected  this,  Ceballos  was  passing  north- 
wards with  the  intention  of  bringing  back  the  Rio 
Grande  Province  once  more  within  the  fold  of  Buenos 
Aires,  when  his  march  was  stopped  by  the  news  of 
another  of  those  treaties  between  the  mother- 
countries  that  seemed  to  materialise  with  unfailing 
regularity  at  moments  so  ill-timed  for  the  interests 
of  the  Spanish  colonies.  By  the  terms  of  this  Spain 
was  left  with  the  mines  of  Colonia,  while  the  Island 
of  Santa  Catalina  and  the  greater  part  of  Rio  Grande 
were  ceded  definitely  to  Portugal. 

After  this  ensued  an  exceptionally  lengthy  era  of 
peace,  which  was  marked  by  the  immigration  of  many 
families  from  Galicia  and  from  the  Canary  Islands, 
and  by  the  foundation  of  numerous  towns,  amongst 
these  latter  Canelones,  Piedras,  Rosario,  Mercedes, 
Pando,  Santa  Lucia,  San  Jose,  and  Minas.  As  to 
the  capital  itself,  by  the  year  1788  Montevideo  had 
become  a fairly  important  place,  and  could  count  a 
population  of  6,695  Spaniards,  1,386  negro  slaves, 
562  liberated  negroes,  and  715  half-castes  and 
Indians.  A few  years  later  the  population  was  much 
augmented  by  the  introduction  of  important  numbers 
of  negro  slaves,  a traffic  that  continued  intermittently 


54 


URUGUAY 


until  1825,  when  its  continuance  was  prohibited  by- 
law. 

At  the  end  of  the  century  an  industry  was  initiated 
that  might  have  led  to  important  commercial  results 
but  for  the  action  of  the  Spanish  home  authorities. 
The  waters  off  the  coast  of  Maldonado  had  long  been 
famed  as  a whaling -ground,  and  at  this  period  per- 
mission was  given  to  the  Englishmen  engaged  in  the 
traffic  to  found  establishments  both  at  this  place 
and  at  Punta  de  la  Ballena.  The  result  was  a rapid 
but  fleeting  prosperity  at  both  these  points,  since 
after  a while  the  attitude  of  the  Court  of  Spain 
changed.  Fearful  of  the  influence  of  the  English 
upon  the  Uruguayans,  the  authorities  offered  to  the 
new  colonists  the  option  of  becoming  Roman 
Catholics  and  of  swearing  allegiance  to  the  King  of 
Spain,  or  of  abandoning  the  settlement.  The  latter 
alternative  was  chosen  by  the  whalers,  and  Mal- 
donado and  Punta  de  la  Ballena,  in  consequence, 
sank  back  into  the  lethargy  of  industrial  torpor.  The 
instance  is  only  one  of  the  many  in  which  the  mother- 
country  satisfied  its  conscience  at  the  expense  of  its 
colony'. 

A corps  of  Blctndengues , or  Lancers,  was  formed 
in  1797,  whose  duties,  beyond  their  military  per- 
formances, were  varied  to  a degree.  Thus,  in 
addition  to  the  occasional  brushes  with  the  Indians 
that  fell  to  their  lot,  they  were  employed  as  excise 
officials  against  the  smugglers,  as  escorts  of  high 
officials,  as  ordinary  police,  and  as  official 
messengers.  The  corps  was  composed  of  picked 
men,  and  in  its  ranks  served  Jose  Gervasio  Artigas 
and  Jos6  Rondeau,  both  bearers  of  names  that  were 
destined  to  become  famous  in  Uruguayan  history. 

This  body  of  cavalry  was  destined  to  be  employed 
on  active  service  very  soon  after  its  formation.  In 


HISTORY 


55 


I S o i the  Portuguese  became  active  once  more,  and 
the  first  year  of  the  new  century  was  marked  by 
their  occupation  of  land  in  the  north-west  of  the 
Banda  Oriental.  After  various  actions,  Rondeau, 
with  a force  of  Blandengues  and  dragoons,  defeated 
the  invaders  and  won  back  the  greater  part  of  the 
lost  territory. 

In  1806  occurred  the  first  of  the  British  invasions 
which,  although  materially  fruitless  in  the  end  so  far 
as  our  own  country  was  concerned,  were  destined 
to  influence  the  minds  of  the  colonials  and  the  future 
of  the  River  Plate  Provinces  to  a greater  extent 
than  is  generally  realised1.  The  circumstances  of 
the  invasion  that  won  to  the  British  Crown  for  a 
very  short  while  not  only  Montevideo,  Maldonado, 
Colonia",  and  numerous  lesser  Uruguayan  towns,  but 
Buenos  Aires  in  addition,  afford  bitter  reading. 
Thanks  to  the  colossal  incapacity — to  give  his  conduct 
no  harder  name — of  the  British  Commander-in-Chief, 
General  Whitlocke,  the  last  troops  of  the  British 
army  of  occupation  had  sailed  away  northwards  from 
Montevideo  by  the  beginning  of  September,  1807. 

Although  the  matter  ended  for  the  British  with 
the  departure  of  the  troops  from  the  River  Plate, 
the  aftermath  of  the  event  took  very  definite  shape 
in  the  Spanish  colonies  themselves.  Not  only  had  the 
inhabitants  of  the  provinces  learned  their  own  power, 
but — more  especially  in  the  case  of  Montevideo — 
the  seeds  of  commercial  liberty  had  been  sown 
amongst  the  local  merchants  and  traders  by  the 
English  men  of  business  who  had  descended  upon 
the  place  beneath  the  protection  of  the  army.  That 
the  final  leave-taking  between  the  English  and  the 
Uruguayans  should  have  been  accompanied  by  actual 
cordiality  and  regrets  is  surely  an  astonishing  cir- 
cumstance that  affords  great  credit  to  both  sides. 
There  can  be  no  doubt,  however,  that  this  mutual 


56 


URUGUAY 


esteem  was  in  the  first  place  fostered  by  an  appre- 
ciation on  the  part  of  the  residents  of  British  laws 
and  methods  of  trading. 

iWhether  the  germs  thus  left  behind  would  have 
fructified  so  rapidly  but  for  the  chaotic  condition 
of  the  mother-country  is  doubtful.  As  it  was,  scarcely 
had  the  smoke  of  these  actions  cleared  away  when  it 
became  necessary  for  the  patriots  of  the  River  Plate 
Province  to  look  once  again  to  their  primings  in 
view  of  still  more  vital  occurrences. 

I do  not  propose  to  tell  here  the  full  story  of  the 
rebellion  of  the  River  Plate  Provinces  and  of  the 
revolution  that  ended  in  the  complete  overthrow  of 
Spanish  power  in  South  America,  since  I have  already 
roughly  sketched  these  events  elsewhere.  So  far  as 
the  main  events  are  concerned,  the  transition  from 
the  colonial  stage  to  the  condition  of  independence 
was  slower  in  the  Banda  Oriental  than  was  the 
process  upon  the  eastern  bank  of  the  great  river. 
In  Julio  of  1810,  when  the  Junta  of  Buenos  Aires 
had  already  established  itself  to  cast  off  the  yoke  of 
Spain,  Montevideo  still  remained  faithful  to  the 
mother-country,  and  rejected  the  advances  of  the 
Argentines . 

Thus  at  the  beginning  of  1 8 1 1 Montevideo  found 
itself,  if  only  for  a short  while,  the  seat  of  the  vice- 
royalty of  the  La  Plata  Provinces,  and  from  that 
point  of  vantage  Elio,  the  Viceroy,  declared  war  upon 
Buenos  Aires.  Almost  immediately,  however,  the 
spirit  of  independence  became  manifest  in  Uruguay 
itself,  and  it  is  at  this  juncture  that  occurs  the  name 
that  has  perhaps  stamped  itself  most  deeply  of  &11 
upon  the  history  of  the  Banda  Oriental. 


CHAPTER  IV 


HISTORY — continued 

The  advent  of  Artigas — First  revolutionary  movements  in  Uruguay — The 
appointment  of  leaders — First  successes  of  the  Uruguayans — The 
germs  of  future  jealousies — Montevideo  besieged  by  the  patriot  forces — 
An  incident  of  the  investment — Spain  appeals  to  Portugal  for  assistance 
— Invasion  of  Uruguay  by  the  latter — The  Buenos  Aires  Government 
concludes  a treaty  with  the  Spanish  Viceroy — Raising  of  the  siege  of 
Montevideo — Position  of  Uruguay — Discontent  of  the  Orientales — The 
exodus  of  the  nation — Incidents  of  emigration  to  the  Argentine  shore 
— Montevideo  in  Spanish  hands — The  country  overrun  by  Portuguese 
— Buenos  Aires  effects  a treaty  with  the  latter — Resumption  of  the 
campaign  against  the  Spaniards — Disputes  between  the  Argentine  and 
Uruguayan  leaders — Montevideo  again  besieged — Some  battle  inci- 
dents— Artigas  reappears  on  the  scene — Drastic  measures  towards  an 
ally — A national  Congress  convened — Oriental  deputies  rebuffed  by 
Buenos  Aires — Artigas  withdraws  from  the  siege  of  Montevideo — 
Price  set  upon  his  head — War  declared  between  Uruguay  and  Buenos 
Aires — The  Argentine  littoral  provinces  adhere  to  Artigas — Fall  of 
Montevideo. 

The  personality  of  Artigas,  the  central  figure  of  the 
Uruguayan  revolutionary  era,  is  fully  described  in  a 
later  chapter.  It  is  necessary  here,  therefore,  merely 
to  give  the  record  of  historical  occurrences,  without 
laying  stress  on  the  individuality  of  the  Oriental 
leader,  a matter  that  is  not  easy  of  accomplishment, 
since  the  figure  of  Artigas  seems  to  have  dominated 
the  field  of  action  in  whatever  direction  it  lay. 

Shortly  after  the  outbreak  of  the  revolution 
Artigas,  who  at  the  time  was  in  the  Spanish  service, 


58 


URUGUAY 


joined  the  patriot  ranks  after  a violent  quarrel  with 
his  brigadier.  The  Oriental  fled  across  the  river 
to  Buenos  Aires.  Here  he  received  a warm  welcome, 
and  was  supplied  with  armed  men  and  financial  aid 
in  order  to  foment  the  movement  in  his  native 
country.  Beyond  this  he  received  the  official  rank 
of  lieutenant -colonel  in  the  Army  of  Independence. 

In  the  meanwhile  the  first  stirrings  of  the  war  that 
was  to  come  had  already  shaken  Uruguay.  With  its 
capital,  Montevideo,  now  the  seat  of  the  viceroyalty, 
the  small  province  had  remained  more  or  less 
quiescent,  lying,  as  it  were,  directly  beneath  the 
eye  of  Imperial  Spain  itself.  But  the  awakening, 
when  it  occurred,  was  followed  by  a strenuous  out- 
break of  activity.  {The  first  important  rising  took 
place  at  PaysandiS,  on  the  banks  of  the  Uruguay 
River.  This  was  crushed  by  the  aid  of  the  Spanish 
war  vessels  that  lay  in  the  stream.  But  the 
inhabitants,  not  in  the  least  discouraged  by  this  first 
check,  rose  again  in  greater  numbers  than  before. 
A body  of  one  hundred  gauchos,  ill -armed  as  it  was, 
captured  the  town  of  Mercedes,  and  then,  with 
augmented  forces,  marched  on  Soriano,  which 
surrendered  to  them. 

This  success  was  the  signal  for  a:  general  rising 
throughout  the  country.  At  the  beginning  of  1 8 1 1 
the  Spanish  garrison  found  themselves  in  the  midst 
of  a definitely  hostile  population.  From  one  frontier 
to  another  bodies  of  men  were  gathering  together, 
forging  weapons  from  agricultural  tools,  and  arming 
themselves  as  best  they  could  in  order  that  they 
might  take  their  share  in  the  struggle  for  liberation 
that  was  already  in  active  being.  In  March  the 
towns  of  Maldonado,  San  Carlos,  and  Minas  rose, 
and  the  country  just  to  the  east  of  Montevideo  itself 
threw  off  the  Spanish  authority  and  came  into 
possession  of  the  insurrectionist  companies. 


HISTORY 


59 


On  the  nth  of  April,  1811,  Artigas  returned  to 
U ruguay  in  command  of  150  men  of  the  regiment 
of  Patricios,  and  disembarked  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  that  hub  of  all  strife,  Colonia.  Here  he  was 
welcomed  by  a great  number  of  armed  countryfolk, 
who  acclaimed  him  as  chief  of  the  Orientales.  The 
movement  now  fairly  under  way,  he  established  his 
headquarters  at  Mercedes.  In  the  meanwhile  the 
germ  of  future  combinations  had  already  been 
created  by  the  appointment  on  the  part  of 
the  Buenos  Aires  patriots  of  Rondeau  as  com- 
mander of  the  Uruguayans.  Belgrano,  first  named 
for  the  post,  had,  disgraced,  been  deprived  of  it 
since  his  defeat  by  the  Paraguayans. 

Artigas’s  first  collision  with  the  royal  forces 
occurred  at  Paso  del  Rey,  the  Spanish  army  being 
completely  defeated.  Reinforced  by  a second 
victorious  column,  under  Benavidez,  the  Uruguayans 
followed  up  the  retreating  regulars,  and  forced  them 
to  surrender. 

Artigas,  the  Jefe  de  los  Orientales,  had  now  at 
his  disposal  a force  of  over  a thousand  men. 
Meeting  at  Las  Piedras  with  a royalist  army  of 
1,230  men,  the  valour  of  the  new  levies  was  soon 
put  to  the  test.  Although  the  Spaniards  possessed 
the  advantage  of  artillery,  they  were  in  the  end, 
after  a desperate  and  prolonged  fight  that  endured 
for  half  a dozen  hours,  defeated  and  forced  to 
surrender. 

The  doings  of  the  patriotic  force  came  as  a:  blow 
to  the  Spanish  authorities  at  Montevideo.  Urged 
by  the  first  tremblings  of  the  viceregal  throne  beneath 
him,  Elio  cast  about  him  for  an  inducement  to  turn 
Artigas  from  his  victorious  course.  To  this  end  he 
sent  messengers  offering  the  chieftain  a heavy 
monetary  bribe  to  desert  the  patriot  cause,  and  to 
take  service  again  in  the  royalist  cause.  ^Whether 


60 


URUGUAY 


any  offering  of  any  kind  would  have  tempted  Artigas 
is  doubtful.  But  in  any  case  the  tender  was  eloquent 
of  Elio’s  want  of  acquaintance  with  the  Gaucho 
temperament,  to  which  the  possession  of  mere  cash 
constitutes  a matter  of  utter  indifference.  As  it 
was,  Artigas  treated  the  offer  with  angry  contempt. 

The  hour  of  the  patriot  leader’s  triumph  was  not 
without  its  sting.  The  battle  of  Las  Piedras  had 
won  him  the  rank  of  colonel  in  the  revolutionary 
forces,  it  is  true  ; but  Belgrano,  after  Suipacha, 
had  risen  to  that  of  a general.  And,  although  both 
the  Buenos  Aires  Government  and  the  official 
Gazette , using  the  soft  soap  of  courtesy  titles, 
referred  continuously  to  Artigas  by  the  honorary 
term  of  “ General,”  the  bitterness  remained  to  give 
rise  to  future  strife. 

Three  days  after  his  victory  Artigas  marched  to 
Montevideo,  and  laid  siege  to  the  headquarters  itself 
of  the  Spanish  regime.  As  a preliminary  to  the 
operation  an  exchange  of  prisoners,  wounded  and 
whole,  was  effected.  Artigas  then  formally  demanded 
the  (Surrender  of  the  garrison  ; Elio  responded  by 
various  sorties,  all  of  which  were  repulsed.  The 
beginning  of  the  siege  was  marked  by  a'  dramatic 
episode.  Suspecting  the  revolutionary  sympathies  of 
some  Franciscan  monks  domiciled  in  Montevideo, 
Elio  decided  to  expel  these  from  the  city.  The 
Franciscans  were  led  through  the  streets  with  the 
utmost  silence  at  the  dead  of  night.  Arrived  at 
the  gates,  the  officer  in  charge  of  the  escort  pointed 
with  his  sword  at  some  sparks  of  light  that 
twinkled  faintly  in  the  distance.  “ Go  you  with 
the  butchers  ! ” he  commanded,  and  the  priests 
passed  out  silently  into  the  darkness  to  join  the 
forces  of  Artigas.  Their  influence  was  doubtless 
exhilarating  to  the  patriot  cause,  but  there  is  no 
evidence  to  show  that  it  was  employed  in  the  cause 


HISTORY 


61 


of  mercy.  A few  days  later  forty  Uruguayan  families 
suffered  a similar  fate. 

In  the  meanwhile  Benavidez  had  laid  siege  to 
Colonia,  the  garrison  of  which,  after  a month’s 
resistance,  escaped  by  river  to  Montevideo.  It  was 
upon  this  latter  place  that  the  fortune  of  the  Spanish 
dominion  now  hung.  The  scale  of  warfare  was 
increasing  in  proportion  to  the  importance  of  the 
issue.  Shortly  after  the  arrival  of  the  reinforce- 
ments supplied  by  the  Royalist  fugitives  from  Colonia, 
Rondeau,  in  command  of  the  Argentine  troops, 
arrived  to  take  charge  of  the  attacking  force,  that 
now  amounted  to  four  thousand  men.  Artigas,  now 
one  amongst  many,  dropped  in  rank  from  commander 
to  leader  of  horse. 

Rondeau  had  contrived  to  drag  two  heavy  gUns 
to  the  spot,  and  with  these  he  opened  fire  upon 
Montevideo.  Galled  by  a continuous  bombardment, 
Elio  took  a more  desperate  step  than  was  justified 
even  by  his  situation.  Carlota,  the  Queen  of  Portugal 
and  the  sister  of  Ferdinand  VII.  of  Spain,  had  been 
established  in  Rio  de  Janeiro  since  the  invasion  of 
the  peninsula  by  the  Napoleonic  armies.  To  her 
the  Viceroy,  seeing  the  last  foothold  of  power 
slipping  from  beneath  him,  sent  an  urgent  message 
for  assistance. 

Ere  the  response  to  this  appeal  became  evident 
the  condition  of  the  beleagured  town  had  changed. 
Discouraged  by  the  serious  defeat  at  Huaqui  of  the 
army  of  Peru,  the  revolutionary  leaders  of  Buenos 
Aires  were  already  contemplating  a retirement  from 
before  Montevideo,  when  the  blow  engineered  by 
Elio  took  effect.  A swarm  of  Portuguese,  under 
command  of  General  Diego  de  Souza,  entered  the 
Banda  Oriental  from  the  north  with  the  purpose 
of  overrunning  the  country.  The  Buenos  Aires 
Government,  appalled  by  the  new  turn  that  affairs 


62 


URUGUAY 


had  taken,  made  the  utmost  haste  to  conclude  an 
armistice  with  Elio.  By  the  terms  of  the  treaty 
the  patriot  forces  were  to  retire  from  Montevideo, 
and  Spanish  authority  was  to  be  recognised  through- 
out Uruguay  in  exchange  for  the  return  of  Souza’s 
forces  to  Brazil.  Thus  Elio’s  unscrupulous  move 
had  succeeded  for  the  time  being,  and  the  first  siege 
of  Montevideo  came  to  an  end.  A month  after  its 
conclusion  Elio  retired  to,  Spain.  The  command  he 
had  left  was  now  no  longer  worthy  of  the  highest 
rank,  and  the  departed  Viceroy  was  succeeded  by 
Vigodet  in  the  minor  capacity  of  Captain-General. 

Artigas  had  from  the  first  bitterly  opposed  this 
treaty,  by  the  terms  of  which  the  Orien tales  were 
to  be  left  at  the  mercy  of  the  Royalists.  That 
he  had  right  upon  his  side  from  his  own  point  of 
view  is  undeniable,  although  it  is  difficult  to  see 
by  what  other  means  the  Buenos  Aires  Government, 
caught  between  the  Spaniards  and  the  Brazilians, 
could  have  extricated  themselves  from  their  dilemma. 
The  treaty  once  concluded,  however,  Artigas  initiated 
a move  that  in  itself  proved  the  greatness  of  the 
man. 

A general  assembly  of  the  patriotic  Oriental 
families  was  sounded.  Obedient  to  the  call,  they 
mustered  in  numbers  that  amounted  to  over  thirteen 
thousand  men,  women,  and  children.  Then  followed 
the  exodus,  ordained  by  the  stress  of  events,  of  which 
Artigas  was  the  human  instrument.  Escorted  by 
three  thousand  soldiers,  the  march  of  the  families 
began.  Carts  filled  with  women  and  children,  herds 
of  cattle,  troops  of  horses,  companies  of  pack -mules, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  riders  themselves — the  tragic 
procession  toiled  its  long  length  northwards  through 
the  summer  dust  clouds  struck  up  by  the  hoofs  and 
feet  from  the  crude  earth  roads.  Mingled  with  the 
slowly  advancing  ranks,  and  lending  still  greater 


HISTORY 


63 


variety,  to  the  whole,  went  four  hundred  faithful 
Charrua  Indians,  armed  with  bblas  and  spears. 

Over  the  rolling  hills  of  Uruguay  struggled  the 
human  thread  of  emigrants.  Death  waited  on  the 
column  in  the  shape  of  heat  and  hardship.  But, 
though  many  children  and  many  aged  folk  fell  by 
the  way,  the  great  majority  won  through  in  safety 
to  Salto,  on  the  banks  of  the  Uruguay  ; crossed  the 
great  river  in  boats,  and  took  up  their  abode  on 
the  Argentine  shore,  awaiting  with  anxiety  the  hour 
that  might  permit  their  return  to  their  native  land. 

In  the  meantime  matters  were  passing  from  bad 
to  worse  in  Uruguay.  Once  within  its  frontiers, 
the  temptations  of  the  promised  land  overcame  any 
scruple  on  the  part  of  the  Portuguese  concerning 
a too  rigid  adherence  to  the  terms  of  the  treaty. 
Under  the  convenient  pretext  of  pacifying  an  already 
deserted  country,  Souza’s  army  overran  the  smiling 
Campo,  capturing  towns  and  plundering  where  they, 
might.  The  Spanish  royalists,  for  their  part,  re- 
mained passive,  and  the  sole  opposition  with  which 
the  Portuguese  armies  had  to  count  was  that  rendered 
by  the  forces  of  Artigas,  sent  by  him  across  the  river. 
But,  although  they  won  a victory  or  two,  the  slender 
patriot  bands  were  unable  to  stem  the  tide  of  invasion 
to  any  appreciable  degree. 

It  is  a little  curious  to  remark  what  an  endless 
wealth  of  complications  appear  to  have  attended  every 
political  move  at  this  period.  In  this  particular 
instance  the  introduction  of  a new  element  was  pro- 
ductive of  unexpected  results.  Thus,  when  the 
Buenos  Aires  Government,  realising  the  gravity  of 
the  situation,  proposed  to  send  reinforcements  to  the 
assistance  of  Artigas,  the  move  was  checked  by  Elio, 
the  Spanish  commander,  who,  forgetful  of  the  ties 
of  blood,  threatened  to  join  cause  with  the  Portu- 
guese in  the  event  pf  any  such  intervention.  As 


64 


URUGUAY 


an  appropriate  climax  to  the  chaotic  situation,  the 
Buenos  Aires  powers  turned  to  Paraguay  for  assist- 
ance. The  latter,  inclined  to  assent,  began  negotia- 
tion with  Artigas  direct,  and,  since  the  Argentine 
Government  resented  this  slight  upon  its  authority, 
and  the  negotiations  themselves  failed  to  fructify, 
the  only  outcome  of  importance  was  an  increase  in 
the  mutual  jealousies  that  already  existed  between 
Artigas  and  the  Argentines. 

Shortly  after  this,  however,  the  tables  were  turned 
upon  the  Spaniards.  An  able  stroke  of  diplomacy 
on  the  part  of  the  famous  Argentine,  Belgrano,  sup- 
ported by  British  influence,  resulted  in  a treaty  with 
the  Portuguese.  Thus  the  Royalists,  hoist  by  a 
second  edition  of  their  own  petard,  lay  without  allies 
at  the  mercy  of  the  patriot  forces. 

Preparations  for  a fresh  siege  of  Montevideo  were 
at  once  begun.  Don  Manuel  Sarratea,  appointed 
Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Argentine  Army, 
marched  to  the  Entre  Rios  shore  to  join  his 
columns  with  those  of  Artigas.  The  inevitable 
jealousies  between  the  Argentine  and  Oriental  leaders 
came  to  a head  almost  immediately.  Apart  from 
a deep  personal  antagonism  that  separated  the  pair, 
a yet  more  potent  reason  made  the  rupture  inevit- 
able. Sarratea,  representing  the  triumvirate  of 
Buenos  Aires,  was  determined  to  deal  with  Uruguay 
as  a province  of  the  new  Republic  of  Argentina. 
Artigas,  on  the  other  hand,  although  willing  to 
acknowledge  the  authority  at  Buenos  Aires  from  a 
federal  point  of  view,  insisted  upon  the  independence 
of  the  State. 

It  was  in  these  circumstances  that  Sarratea 
descended  upon  Artigas ’s  mixed  camp  of  soldiers  and 
Uruguayan  emigrant  families  upon  the  banks  of  the 
Uruguay.  The  results  of  the  meeting'  were  soon 
evident.  Artigas,  complaining  bitterly  that  Sarratea 


HISTORY 


65 


had  seduced  from  his  allegiance  not  only  his  troops 
but  the  civilian  elements  of  the  settlement,  resigned 
his  colonelcy,  and  separated  his  division  from  the 
Argentine  forces.  The  troops  now  remaining  to  him 
numbered  rather  less  than  a thousand  men,  under 
the  command  of  Otorgues,  Rivera,  and  Manuel 
Artigas. 

In  the  meanwhile  Sarratea,  anxious  that  the  credit 
for  the  capture  of  Montevideo  should  fall  to  his  lot, 
had  dispatched  a force  under  Rondeau  to  lay  siege 
once  again  to  the  town  of  contention  that  repre- 
sented the  headquarters  of  the  Royalists.  Arriving 
at  the  spot,  he  found  that  his  task  had  already 
been  forestalled  to  a certain  extent  by  an  independent 
Oriental,  Jose  Eugenio  Culta.  The  latter  caudillo, 
spurred  onwards  by  the  numerous  examples  of  reck- 
less initiative  offered  by  the  period,  had  collected 
a band  of  three  hundred  Gauchos.  With  these 
kindred  spirits  he  was  busily  occupied  in  harassing 
the  garrison  to  no  little  purpose. 

With  the  arrival  of  Rondeau,  in  October  of  1812, 
the  siege  of  the  devoted  city  began  on  an  imposing 
scale,  the  army  employed  for  the  purpose  soon 
amounting  to  two  thousand  men.  Destined  to  drag 
out  its  length  for  almost  two  years,  the  first  few 
months  of  the  siege  were  marked  by  two  events  of 
importance.  Vigodet,  having  received  reinforcements 
from  Spain,  made  a vigorous  sally  on  the  last  day 
of  the  year.  At  early  dawn  sixteen  hundred  men 
burst  out  from  the  gates  of  the  city,  surprising!  and 
routing  the  besieging  forces  as  they  went,  until  they 
won  the  summit  of  the  Cerrito  hill  itself,  the  head- 
quarters of  the  American  forces.  With  the  yellow 
and  red  of  Spain  flaunting  from  this  the  Royalists 
forgot  all  but  their  success,  and  expended  their 
energies  in  a jubilation  that  cost  them  dear.  For 
Rondeau,  gathering  together  his  fugitive  troops  with 

5 


66 


URUGUAY 


an  amazing  rapidity,  fell  like  a thunderbolt  upon 
the  cheering  crowd,  whose  joyful  cf. amour  turned  to 
groans  and  death  gasps  as  the  stricken  mass  went 
reeling  back  into  the  city. 

An  event  of  still  greater  importance  occurred 
during  the  first  month  of  the  following  year. 
Sarratea  himself  then  journeyed  to  the  camp  before 
Montevideo.  But  he  had  company  behind  that  he 
could  not  have  failed  to  regard  with  considerable 
unease.  Notwithstanding  his  late  check,  Artigas  still 
remained  a power  to  be  reckoned  with.  Indeed, 
his  vitality  had  risen  to  the  occasion  ; he  had  flung 
out  his  summons  far  and  wide,  and  his  power  was 
now  infinitely  greater  than  before.  Thus,  when 
Sarratea  set  out  for  Montevideo,  Artigas  followed 
grimly  in  his  wake,  having  now  no  mean  instrument 
by  means  of  which  to  assert  his  rights — an  army 
of  five  thousand  men. 

Arriving  on  the  heels  of  his  enemy  at  the  point 
of  hostilities,  Artigas  was  not  slow  to  act.  Taking! 
full  measure  of  his  advantage,  he  sent  peremptorily 
to  Rondeau,  demanding  the  immediate  dismissal  of 
Sarratea  from  his  office  of  Commander-in-Chief. 
The  order  thus  given  to  a subordinate  to  deal  with 
his  superior  was  quite  in  accordance  with  the  spirit, 
of  the  times. 

As  Rondeau,  however,  did  not  immediately  com- 
ply, Artigas  took  a very  simple  measure  by  which 
to  prove  that  he  did  not  intend  to  ask  in  vain. 
His  Gauchos  dashed  full  gallop  into  Sarratea’s  camp, 
and  drove  off  with  them  all  the  horses  that  they 
found  within  the  establishment.  Seeing  that  a: 
Gaucho  army,  unhorsed,  is  as  a collection  of  fish 
on  dry  land,  the  matter  was  definitely  settled  by 
the  act.  Sarratea  retired  with  the  best  grace  he 
could  muster  to  Buenos  Aires,  Rondeau  remained 
in  command,  and  the  Oriental  and  Argentine  leaders 


HISTORY 


67 


sat  down  to  continue  the  investment  of  Montevideo, 
one  jealous  eye  of  each  upon  his  fellow-chief,  the 
other  fixed  more  casually  upon  the  beleaguered 
town. 

During  the  comparative  lull  in  active  hostilities 
that  followed  Artigas  busied  himself  in  the  affairs 
of  the  State  that  he  was  determined  to  see  fully 
created.  To  this  end  he  convened  a national  Con- 
gress of  Uruguayans,  of  which  he  was,  as  a matter 
of  course,  elected  President,  in  addition  to  being 
created  Military  Governor  of  the  country.  One  of 
the  first  acts  of  the  new  Congress  was  to  advertise 
its  existence  by  the  mission  of  deputies  to  the  Junta 
at  Buenos  Aires.  But,  the  Junta  refusing  to  recog- 
nise either  an  independent  Uruguay  or  its  agents, 
the  deputies  returned  home  to  spread  the  tale  of 
the  rebuff,  and  to  increase  the  bitterness  that  already 
lay  so  deep  between  the  Buenos  Aires  authorities 
and  Artigas. 

In  January,  1814,  the  long  series  of  incessant  dis- 
putes was  brought  abruptly  to  a’  head  by  Artigas. 
In  the  dead  of  night  he  struck  his  hide  tents,  mounted 
his  men,  and  his  entire  force  rode  away  over  the 
hills,  leaving  Rondeau  and  his  army  to  continue  the 
siege  of  Montevideo  as  best  they  might.  The  Buenos 
Aires  authorities,  furious  at  the  defection,  placed  a 
price  upon  Artigas ’s  head  ; and  the  Gaucho  leader, 
equally  incensed  at  this  personal  ultimatum,  re- 
taliated by  declaring  open  war  upon  the  Junta. 
Storming  against  the  Buenos  Airens,  this  born  leader 
of  men  took  his  body — valued  by  his  enemies  at 
six  thousand  pesos,  alive  or  dead— along  the  coast 
of  the  great  river.  So  successful  were  his  denuncia- 
tions and  the  missions  of  his  ambassadors  that  not 
only  the  littoral  provinces  of  Entre  Rios,  Corrientes, 
and  Santa1  Fe  came  spontaneously  to  his  standard, 
but  the  comparatively  remote  province  of  Cordoba, 


68 


URUGUAY 


following  the  example  of  the  rest,  proffered  its 
allegiance. 

It  was  not  long  ere  the  news  of  the  rupture 
reached  the  ears  of  Vigodet  in  Montevideo.  Think- 
ing to  derive  profit  from  the  occasion,  he  made  a 
final  appeal  to  throw  in  his  lot  with  the  royal  forces. 
The  Gaucho  leader  in  his  refusal  is  stated  to  have 
said  that  “ with  the  Portenos  [Buenos  AirensJ  there 
was  always  time  for  reconciliation  ; with  the 
Spaniards,  never  ! ” That  the  time  for  the  former 
consummation  was  not  yet  ripe  was  evidenced  by 
the  almost  immediate  outbreak  of  active  hostilities 
between  the  rival  South  American  parties. 

In  the  meanwhile  Montevideo  was  giving  out  the 
last  gasp  of  its  imperial  existence.  The  Spanish 
fleet  that  had  assisted  in  its  defence  had  been 
destroyed  by  Admiral  Brown,  the  famous  Irishman 
in  Argentine  service.  Hunger  and  the  lack  of 
general  necessaries  both  of  livelihood  and  of  war 
completed  the  work  of  arms.  On  the  20th  June, 
1814,  Montevideo,  after  suffering  intense  privations, 
capitulated,  and  with  its  fall  passed  for  ever  the 
last  vestige  of  Spanish  power  from  the  provinces 
of  the  River  Plate. 


CHAPTER  V 


H I STORY — con  ti  nued 

Conclusion  of  Spanish  rule — Situation  of  the  victors — Rival  claims — 
Alvear  defeats  a Uruguayan  force — Montevideo  remains  in  possession 
of  Buenos  Aires — Rural  Uruguay  supports  Artigas — Alliance  of  the 
Argentine  littoral  provinces  with  the  Orientales — Some  intrigues  and 
battles — Success  of  the  Uruguayans — Departure  from  Montevideo  of 
the  Buenos  Aires  garrison — The  Uruguayans  enter  into  possession  of 
their  capital — Some  crude  methods  of  government — Trials  of  the 
inhabitants — Growth  of  Artigas’s  power — The  Buenos  Aires  directors 
undertake  a propitiatory  measure — A grim  human  offering — Attitude 
of  the  Uruguayan  Protector — Negotiations  and  their  failure — The  civil 
progress  of  Uruguay — Formation  of  departments — The  Portuguese 
invade  the  country  once  again — Condition  of  the  inhabitants — Fierce 
resistance  to  the  invaders — A campaign  against  heavy  odds — The 
Portuguese  army  enters  Montevideo — War  continued  by  the  provinces 
— Invasion  of  Brazil  by  the  Oriental  forces — Crushing  defeats  suffered 
by  the  army  of  invasion — Final  struggles — The  flight  of  Artigas— 
Uruguay  passes  under  Portuguese  rule. 

The  defeated  eagle  Was  fluttering  slowly  homeward 
with  broken  wing.  But  its  departure  did  not  leave 
the  battlefield  empty.  It  was  the  turn  now  of  the 
victorious  hawks  to  rend  each  other.  Alvear  had 
arrived  from  Buenos  Aires,  and  was  now  in  charge 
of  the  newly  won  city.  Scarcely  had  he  begun  his 
work  of  organisation,  however,  when  Otorgues, 
Artigas’s  chief  lieutenant,  appeared  at  Las  Piedras 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  capital,  and  in  the  name 
of  his  leader  demanded  that  the  place  should  be 
handed  over  to  the  Uruguayans.  Alvear’s  answer 
was  unexpected  and  to  the  point.  Marching  his 


70 


URUGUAY 


army  through  the  darkness,  he  fell  upon  Otorgues’s 
forces  in  the  middle  of  the  night,  shattering  them 
completely. 

Thus  the  Buenos  Aires  authorities  remained  for 
the  time  being  masters  of  the  city.  As  for  their 
sway,  the  Montevideans  broke  out  into  bitter  com- 
plaints that  the  Spanish  dominion  had  been  liberal 
and  lenient  by  comparison.  However  this  may  have 
been,  it  is  certain  that  those  families  noted  for  their 
allegiance  to  Artigas  were  subjected  to  severe 
penalties  and  restrictions. 

Nevertheless  the  situation  of  the  advocates  of  cen- 
tralisation had  now  become  critical.  By  a curious 
irony  of  fate  the  position  of  the  Junta  was  exactly 
identical  with  that  formerly  held  by  the  Spaniards. 
Montevideo  lay  in  its  power;  but  the  remainder  of 
the  Banda  Oriental  as  well  as  the  Argentine  provinces 
of  Entre  Rios,  Correntes,  and  Santa  Fe  were  com- 
pletely subject  to  Artigas.  Alive  to  the  growing 
power  of  the  Protector,  the  Buenos  Aires  Govern- 
ment opened  negotiations  for  a treaty,  flinging  out 
in  the  first  place  an  olive-branch  in  the  shape  of  a 
degree  not  only  relieving  the  head  of  the  Gaucho 
leader  of  the  dollars  set  upon  it,  but  in  addition 
proclaiming  him  to  the  world  as  buen  servidor  de 
la  p atria — “ a worthy  servant  of  the  country.”  A 
meeting  at  Montevideo  resulted  in  the  evacuation  of 
Montevideo  on  the  part  of  nearly  the  entire  Buenos 
Aires  garrison.  These  departed  by  river;  but, 
instead  of  returning  to  Buenos  Aires,  the  troops 
landed  at  Colonia,  marched  inland  to  Minas,  fell 
upon  Otorgues,  whose  camp  lay  in  that  district,  and 
completely  routed  the  force  of  the  unsuspecting 
lieutenant. 

This  achieved,  the  victorious  army  set  out  in  search 
of  Rivera,  another  of  Artigas ’s  comtnanders,  who  had 
recently  surprised  and  destroyed  a Buenos  Aires 


HISTORY 


71 


column.  In  this  latter  leader,  however,  Dorrego,  the 
Junta  general,  met  with  more  than  his  match,  and, 
suffering  many  casualties,  was  forced  to  retire  to 
Colonia.  Sallying  out  from  here  with  reinforcements 
a,  little  later,  he  was  utterly  defeated,  and  fled  in  haste 
to  Corrientes,  accompanied  by  some  score  of  men 
who  formed  the  sole  remnant  of  his  entire  army. 

Just  as  the  fall  of  Montevideo  crowned  the  doom 
of  the  Spanish  power,  so  this  final  disaster  marked 
the  end  of  the  occupation  of  the  town  by  the  Buenos 
Aires  Government.  A little  more  than  a month  after 
the  event  the  troops  of  the  garrison  sailed  across  to 
Buenos  Aires.  The  following  day  Fernando  Otorgues 
entered  the  place  at  the  hea,d  of  his  troops.  The 
advent  of  the  new  Military  Governor  was  hailed  with 
enthusiasm  by  the  inhabitants.  The  unfurling  of 
Artigas’s  blue  and  white  standard  with  its  red  bar 
was  answered  by  illuminations  and  fireworks  by  the 
citizens. 

For  the  first  time  in  its  history  the  capital  of 
Uruguay  lay  beneath  the  command  of  a Uruguayan. 
By  one  of  the  first  acts  of  the  new  regime  a national 
coat  of  arms  was  instituted,  and  a flaming  proclama- 
tion promised  nothing  short  of  the  millennium.  All 
this  Would  have  been  very  well  had  it  not  been 
necessary  for  this  new  benignity  to  be  put  immedi- 
ately to  the  test.  It  then  became  evident  to  the 
depressed  Montevideans  that  with  each  change  of 
rulers  their  load  of  evils  had  increased.  With  his 
talents  essentially  confined  to  the  field  of  battle,  there 
was  probably  no  man  in  Uruguay  who  possessed  less 
of  the  lamb  in  his  disposition  than  Otorgues.  The 
temperaments  of  his  subordinates,  reckless  at  the 
best  of  times,  had  been  further  excited  by  merciless 
warfare.  Thus  the  inhabitants,  at  the  mercy  of  the 
utterly  licentious  Gaucho  soldiers,  continued  to  groan 
for  relief  in  vain. 


72 


URUGUAY 


Artigas  himself  had  not  approached  the  city. 
From  points  of  vantage  along  the  great  river  system 
he  had  ceaselessly  harassed  the  forces  of  the  Junta, 
until  Alvear,  its  director,  goaded  to  exasperation, 
collected  into  an  army  every  soldier  that  he  could 
spare,  and,  determined  to  put  all  to  the  hazard,  sent 
the  imposing  expedition  against  the  Gaucho  leader. 
The  adventure  involved  complete  disaster  to  the 
director.  Ere  it  had  passed  the  frontiers  of  Buenos 
Aires  Province,  the  army,  encouraged  by  Artigas, 
revolted,  and  its  chief,  Colonel  Alvarez  Thomas, 
returned  to  Buenos  Aires  to  depose  Alvear,  with 
whose  office  he  invested  himself. 

The  power  of  the  famous  Oriental  chief  had  now 
reached  its  zenith.  The  new  director,  Alvarez 
Thomas,  acutely  conscious  of  the  Protector’s  power, 
thought  of  nothing  beyond  conciliation.  Among  the 
measures  employed  was  one  that  redounded  very  little 
to  his  credit.  Not  satisfied  with  the  public  burning 
of  the  various  proclamations  hostile  to  the  Caadillo , 
he  bethought  himself  of  a stake  that  should  win  for 
ever  the  regard  of  Artigas.  To  this  end  he  arrested 
the  seven  chief  friends  of  Alvear,  and  sent  them  as 
a combined  sacrifice  and  peace-offering  to  Artigas ’s 
encampment.  As  a specimen  of  grim  and  sycophantic 
courtesy  the  callousness  of  the  offering  of  seven 
bodies  can  scarcely  have  been  exceeded  in  the  world’s 
history.  But  Artigas,  contrary  to  the  Director’s 
expectation,  failed  to  make  the  intended  use  of  the 
gifts.  Indeed,  he  treated  them  with  no  little  con- 
sideration, and  sent  them'  back  whence  they  came, 
bidding  them  tell  Thomas  that  the  General  Artigas 
was  no  executioner. 

The  next  move  was  of  the  legitimately  political 
order.  The  voluntary  acknowledgment  of  the  inde- 
pendence of  Uruguay  was  offered  in  exchange  for 
the  abandonment  of  the  protectorate  over  the 


HISTORY 


73 


provinces  of  Entre  Rios,  Santa  Fe,  Cordoba,  and 
Corrientes.  This  was  also  refused  by  Artigas,  who 
maintained  that  the  provinces  of  the  River  Plate 
should,  though  self-governing,  be  indissolubly  linked. 

During  all  this  time  Artigas  remained  at  his 
encampment  at  Hervidero  on  the  banks  of  the 
Uruguay  River.  From  thence  by  a system  of 
organisation  that,  though  crude,  was  marvellously 
effective,  he  manipulated  the  affairs  of  the  exten- 
sive region  under  his  command,  jealously  Watching 
the  moves  of  doubtful  friends  and  open  enemies, 
and  keeping  his  armed  bands  of  remorseless  Gauchos 
ceaselessly  on  the  alert. 

This  continual  state  of  minor  Warfare,  however, 
did  not  altogether  exclude  the  attention  to  civil 
matters.  In  addition  to  some  tentative  measures  of 
administration  in  Cordoba  and  the  Argentine  littoral 
provinces,  Uruguay  was  partitioned  off  into  six 
departments,  to  each  of  which  Was  allotted  its  Cabildo 
and  general  mechanism  of  government.  These 
attempts  naturally  represented  nothing  more  than  a 
drop  of  progress  in  the  ocean  of  chaos ; but  there 
is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  Artigas  undertook  the  new 
and  peaceable  campaign  with  no  little  measure  of 
whole-heartedness.  In  any  case  the  new  era  proved 
as  fleeting  as  any  of  its  predecessors.  It  was  the 
turn  of  the  Portuguese  once  again  to  set  in  motion 
the  wheel  of  fate  upon  which  the  destinies  of 
Uruguay  were  revolving  with  such  giddy  rapidity. 

It  was  in  1 8 1 6 that  the  Portuguese  invalded 
Uruguay  for  the  second  time  since  the  natives  of 
the  land  had  started  on  their  campaign  of  self- 
government.  Their  armies  marched  south  from 
Brazil  with  the  ostensible  object  of  putting  an  end 
to  the  anarchy  that  they  alleged  Was  rampant  under 
the  rule  of  Artigas.  The  condition  of  the  country 
was  undoubtedly  lamentable.  Harassed  by  hordes  of 


74 


URUGUAY 


marauding  soldiery  or  acknowledged  bandits,  the 
safety  of  lives  and  homes  without  the  more  immediate 
range  of  Artigas’s  influence  was  even  more  precarious 
than  Jiad  been  the  case  during  the  recent  period 
of  wild  turmoil. 

It  is  true  that  in  the  districts  bordering  on  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Gaucho  chief  at  Hervidero  matters 
were  very  different.  Indeed,  so  severe  was  the 
discipline  imposed  by  the  Caudilio,  and  so  terrible  the 
penalties  following  on  theft,  that  it  is  said  that  beneath 
his  iron  rule  at  purse  of  gold  might  have  been  left 
on  the  public  highway  with  as  little  chance  of  its 
removal  as  though  it  lay  within  the  vaults  of  a bank. 

But  notwithstanding  the  disorder  that  prevailed 
in  so  many  quarters,  the  disinterestedness  of  the 
motives  that  caused  the  Portuguese  intervention  need 
not  be  taken  too  seriously.  There  can  be  no  doubt 
that  the  real  object  of  the  invasion  was  territorial 
possession  rather  than  the  amelioration  of  a state 
of  turbulence  that  concerned  Brazil  to  at  very  minor 
degree.  To  this  end  an  imposing  army  of  twelve 
thousand  men  marched  southwards,  striking  Uruguay 
at  the  central  point  of  its  northern  frontier. 

Artigas  braced  himself  for  at  desperate  struggle, 
the  final  result  of  which  could  scarcely  be  doubtful. 
In  order  to  distract  the  attention  of  the  advancing 
army  he  became  in  turn  the  invader,  and  sent  a 
force  northwards  to  invade  the  Misiones  territory 
that,  lost  to  the  Banda  Oriental,  now  formed  part 
of  Brazil.  The  manoeuvre,  though  adroit,  was 
rendered  futile  by  the  preponderance  of  the  foreign 
troops.  In  a short  while  the  scene  of  the  conflict 
was  transferred  to  the  home  country.  Here  the 
entire  collection  of  Artigas’s  mixed  forces  made  at 
stand.  Men  of  pure  Spanish  descent,  Gauchos,  Indians, 
negroes,  and  a sprinkling  of  emigrant  foreigners 
beyond — all  these  fought  with  a desperation  that  was 


HISTORY 


75 


in  the  first  place  rewarded  by  several  victories.  No 
human  effort,  however,  could  stave  off  the  final  result. 
Andresito,  a famous  Indian  leader,  Rivera,  Latorre, 
and  Artigas  himself  were  in  turn  defeated,  and  in 
February  of  1817  Lecor,  at  the  head  of  the  Portu- 
guese army,  entered  Montevideo  in  triumph. 

The  fall  of  the  capital  did  not  end  the  war. 
Throughout  the  provinces  the  resistance  continued 
unabated.  On  the  water,  too,  the  Uruguayans 
asserted  themselves  with  no  little  success,  and  it  is 
amazing  to  read  that  one  or  two  of  their  privateers 
with  the  utmost  hardihood1  sailed  across  the  ocean  to 
the  coasts  of  Portugal  itself,  making  several  captures 
within  sight  of  the  Iberian  cliffs.  Indeed1,  that  the 
authority  of  Artigas  wias  still  recognised  to  a certain 
degree  is  proved  by  a treaty  between  his  Govern- 
ment and  Great  Britain  that  was  concluded  several 
months  after  the  loss  of  Montevideo. 

It  was  not  long,  however,  ere  the  inevitable  com- 
plications arose  to  render  the  situation  yet  more 
hopeless.  The  perennial  disputes  with  Buenos  Aires 
became  embittered  to  such  a degree  that  Artigas,  in 
sublime  disregard  of  the  Portuguese  forces  already 
in  the  country,  declared  War  against  the  Directorate. 
The  primary  outcome  of  this  was  the  defection  of 
several  of  his  leaders,  who,  &s  a matter  of  fact,  fore- 
seeing the  reckless  declaration,  had  espoused  the 
Buenos  Aires  cause  just  previous  to  its  publication. 

The  sole  hope  of  Artigas  now  lay  in  the  provinces 
of  Entre  Rios  and  Corrientes.  Even  here  had 
occurred  a wavering  that  had  necessitated1  a crushing 
by  force  ere  a return  to  allegiance  had  been  brought 
about.  With  these  and  the  remaining  Oriental  forces 
he  continued  the  struggle.  But  the  tide  of  his  fortune 
had  turned.  The  beginning  of  the  year  1818 
witnessed  the  capture  of  two  of  his  foremost  lieu- 
tenants, Otorgues  and  Lavalleja,  who  were  sent 


76 


URUGUAY 


by  the  Portuguese  to  an  island  in  the  Bay  of  Rio 
de  Janeiro.  As  a last  effort,  Artigas,  daring  the 
aggressive  even  at  this  stage,  hurled  his  intrepid 
Gauchos  and  Misiones  Indians  once  more  over  the 
frontier  into  Brazilian  territory  itself.  A brilliant 
victory  was  followed  by  the  inevitable  retreat  in  the 
face  of  immensely  superior  forces.  At  Tacuarembo, 
in  the  north  of  the  Banda  Oriental,  fell  the  blow  that 
virtually  ended  the  campaign.  Here  Artigas’s  artny, 
under  the  command  of  Latorre,  was  surprised  and 
completely  routed  with  a loss  that  left  the  force  non- 
existent for  practical  purposes.  Shortly  after  this 
Rivera  surrendered  to  the  Portuguese,  and  with  his 
submission  went  the  last  hope  of  success. 

Artigas  crossed  the  River  Uruguay,  and  took  up 
a position  in  Entre  Rios.  The  hour  of  his  doom  had 
struck ; but  even  then,  with  his  forces  shattered 
and  crushed,  he  refused  to  bow  to  the  inevitable. 
With  extraordinary  doggedness  he  scoured  Entre 
Rios,  Corrientes,  and  Misiones  in  an  endeavour  to 
sweep  up  the  remaining  few  that  the  battles  had 
spared,  and  yet  once  again  to  lead  them  against  the 
Portuguese.  But  on  this  occasion  there  was  no 
response.  Sullen  and  despairing,  the  majority  of  the 
remnant  turned  from  him,  and  in  the  end  his  officer 
Ramirez,  Governor  of  Entre  Rios,  threw  off  his 
allegiance,  and  came  with  an  expedition  to  expel 
him  from  the  country. 

Devoting  themselves  to  this  narrowed  campaign, 
the  two  Gaucho  leaders  assailed  each  other  with 
fury.  Victory  in  the  first  instance  lay  with  Artigas, 
despite  his  diminished  following.  Ramirez,  however, 
received  reinforcements  from  the  Buenos  Aires 
authorities,  who  had  thrown  the  weight  of  their 
influence  against  their  old  enemy.  It  was  against 
the  allied  forces  that  Artigas  fought  his  last  battle. 
When  it  was  evident  even  to  his  indomitable  spirit 


HISTORY 


77 


that  all  hope  Was  at  an  end  he  marched  northwards 
with  a couple  of  hundred  troops  who  remained  faith- 
ful in  the  hour  of  adversity  to  the  once  all-powerful 
Protector. 

At  Candelaria  he  crossed  the  Parana,  and  sought 
the  hospitality  of  Gaspar  Rodriguez  Francia,  the 
dreaded  Dictator  of  Paraguay.  The  latter  first  of  all 
imprisoned  the  fugitive — probably  more  from  force 
of  habit  than  from  any  other  reason,  since  Francia 
was  accustomed  to  fill  his  dungeons  as  lightly  as 
a,  fishwife  her  basket  with  herrings. 

After  a Very  short  period  of  incarceration,  however, 
the  autocrat  came  to  a definite  determination  regard- 
ing his  attitude  towards  the  fugitive  who  had  sought 
his  protection.  Releasing  him,  he  treated  him  with 
a certain  degree  of  liberality  as  well  as  with  respect. 
Artigas  was  allotted  a humble  dwelling  in  the  town- 
ship of  Curuguaty,  far  to  the  north  of  Asuncion, 
and  in  addition  he  was  granted  a moderate  pension 
upon  which  to  live.  Here  the  old  warrior,  enjoying 
the  deep  regard  of  his  neighbours,  ended  his  days 
in  peace,  while  the  tortured  Uruguay  was  incor- 
porated with  Brazil  and  passed  under  Portuguese 
rule. 


CHAPTER  VI 


ARTIGAS 

The  human  product  of  a turbulent  era — Historical  verdicts  disagree — 
Opinions  of  Uruguayan  and  foreign  historians — High-flown  tribute — 
The  cleansing  of  Artigas’s  fame — Prejudices  of  some  local  accounts — 
Uruguay  at  the  time  of  Artigas’s  birth — Surroundings  of  his  youth 
— Smuggling  as  a profession — Growth  of  his  influence — His  name 
becomes  a household  word — Artigas  enters  the  Spanish  service — The 
corps  of  Blandengues — Efficiency  and  promotion — Quarrel  with  the 
Spanish  General — Artigas  throws  in  his  lot  with  the  patriot  forces — 
His  success  as  a leader  of  men — Rank  accorded  him — Jealousy 
between  Artigas  and  the  Buenos  Aires  generals — Conflicting  ambitions 
— The  Portuguese  invasion — Artigas  leads  the  Oriental  nation  to  the 
Argentine  shore — The  encampment  at  Ayui — Scarcity  of  arms  and 
provisions — Battles  with  the  Portuguese — The  subalterns  of  Artigas — 
Otorgues  and  Andresito — Crude  governmental  procedure — Arbitrary 
decrees — The  sentiments  of  Artigas — His  love  of  honesty — Progress 
of  the  war — Complications  of  the  campaign — Artigas  as  Protector — 
The  encampment  of  Hervidero — Revolting  tales— The  exaggeration 
of  history — Artigas  refuses  honour — His  proclamations — Simple  life 
of  the  commander — Some  contemporary  accounts — The  national 
treasury — Final  desperate  struggles  against  the  Portuguese — Rebellion 
of  Ramirez— Fierce  battles — Extraordinary  recuperative  power  of  the 
Protector — Final  defeat  of  Artigas — Flight  to  Paraguay — The  Protector 
in  retirement. 


The  name  of  Artigas  stands  for  that  of  the  national 
hero  of  Uruguay.  Within  the  frontiers  of  the  River 
Plate  countries  and  of  Southern  Brazil  no  such  intro- 
duction would  be  necessary,  since  in  those  places 
have  raged  controversies  as  fierce  as  any  of  the 
battles  in  which  the  old  warrior  took  part.  To  the 
average  English  reader,  however,  his  name  is  neces- 

78 


ARTIGAS 


79 


sarily  unfamiliar,  although  it  crops  up  now  and  again 
in  the  records  of  travellers  who  visited  South  America 
during  the  first  quarter  of  the  eighteenth  century. 

Artigas  was  essentially  the  product  of  a turbulent 
era.  Born  in  1764,  he  had  remained  comparatively 
obscure  until  forty-six  years  later,  when  the  out- 
break of  the  South  American  War  of  Independence 
sent  him  aloft  with  dramatic  rapidity  to  a pinnacle  of 
prominence  from  which  he  ruled  nations  and  armies — 
with  a result  that  is  yet  the  subject  of  considerable 
dispute. 

Perhaps  never  did  the  memory  of  a man  meet 
with  more  honour  in  his  own  country,  and  with  less 
favour  without  it,  Argentine  historians  and  Euro- 
pean travellers  of  all  nationalities  have  included  him 
within  the  dark  fold  of  the  world’s  great  criminals. 
From  the  mill  of  their  analysis  Artigas  emerges  as 
a bandit,  murderer,  traitor,  a criminal  who  seized 
with  audacity  each  of  his  thousand  opportunities  to 
outrage  the  laws  of  morality  and  decency.  Apart 
from  the  testimony  of  the  noted  historians,  two  Swiss 
naturalists,  Rengger  and  Longchamps,  who  pene- 
trated to  his  country  and  whose  report  should  be 
unbiassed,  speak  of  him  as  one  “ whose  life  has 
been  only  a tissue  of  horrors,  the  great  instrument 
of  all  the  calamities  which  for  ten  years  fell  on  the 
provinces  of  the  confederation  of  Rio  de  la  Plata.” 
These  convictions  are  echoed  by  a score  of  pther 
authorities. 

For  the  other  side  of  the  picture  it  is  necessary 
to  turn  to  the  Uruguayan  writers.  Their  views  are 
at  least  as  definite  and  unanimous  as  the  others. 
According  to  one,  Eduardo  Munoz  Ximinez,  “ the 
austerity  of  Cato,  the  purity  of  Aristides,  the  tem- 
perament of  the  Gracchi,  the  nobility  of  Camillus, 
the  generosity  of  Fabricius — these  virtues,  allied  to 
heroism  and  determination,  have  been  found  united 


80 


URUGUAY 


within  the  breast  of  none  but  Artigas.”  This  repre- 
sents but  a solitary  note,  typical  of  the  great  chorus 
of  praise  that  goes  up  from  Uruguay. 

Artigas,  living,  had  little  concern  with  com- 
promise ; dead,  his  spirit  seems  to  have  infected  his 
historians  with  the  same  dislike  of  half -measures. 
In  other  respects  this  particular  strand  of  history 
is  as  flexible  as  all  the  rest.  For  generations  the 
feathers  of  Artigas ’s  fame  remained  of  undisputed 
black  ; now  the  active  protests  of  the  Uruguayans 
have  initiated  a cleansing  process  that  promises  to 
change  the  plumes  to  too  blinding  a white.  Such 
impartial  judgment  as  is  possible  induces  the  per- 
suasion that  the  Argentine  and  foreign  chroniclers, 
though  writing  in  all  good  faith,  have  erred  a little 
in  relying  too  much  upon  the  testimony  of  men  who 
bore  bitter  personal  enmity  towards  the  Uruguayan 
leader.  Artigas,  in  fact,  reveals  himself  from  out 
of  the  cloud  of  conflicting  authorities  as  an  essentially 
human  being,  swayed  by  the  passions  of  the  age  and 
knowing  many  of  its  faults,  wild  as  the  age  itself, 
but  less  sordid  and  more  picturesque,  and  the  author 
of  some  deeds,  moreover,  that,  worked  in  the  light 
of  a:  more  central  and  populous  held,  might  well 
have  sent  his  name  to  posterity  with  more  assured 
honour. 

Artigas  was  born  at  a time  that,  by  courtesy,  was 
termed  one  of  peace.  A treaty  of  the  previous  year 
had  for  a short  while  changed  the  open  warfare 
between  the  Spaniards  and  Portuguese  into  an  un- 
official series  of  aggressions  and  frontier  skirmishes. 
Scarcely,  however,  had  the  future  Protector  of 
Uruguay  attained  to  his  twelfth  year  when  the  war 
broke  out  again,  thus  adding  fresh  fuel  to  the  cease- 
less minor  hatreds  and  private  feuds.  Brought  up, 
as  one  of  his  own  apologists  admits,  in  an  atmo- 
sphere of  rapine,  revenge,  and  violence,  the  early 


ARTXGAS 


81 


surroundings  of  Artigas  were  sufficient  to  prepare 
him  for  the  grim  part  he  was  destined  to  play.  He 
could,  moreover,  lay  claim  to  an  especial  sentimental 
stake  in  the  country,  since  forty  years  before  the  date 
of  his  birth  his  grandfather  had  formed  one  of  the 
heads  of  seven  families  who  were  sent  from  Buenos 
Aires  in  order,  to  found  the  town  of  Montevideo. 

Artigas,  attained  to  manhood1,  became  noted  for 
physical  prowess.  As  was  inevitable  in  such  a land, 
his  unequalled  tricks  of  horsemanship  and  feats  of 
strength  soon  gave  him  an  ascendency  over  the  com- 
panions of  his  own  age.  Since  Artigas  himself 
vouchsafed  little  information  on  the  subject,  the 
details  of  this  early  career;  are  at  best  Vague.  His 
enemies  assert  that  he  turned  brigand,  and  captained 
a band  of  desperadoes.  It  is  now  practically  certain 
that  this  was  not  the  case,  but  that  he  devoted  him- 
self to  smuggling  there  is  no  doubt.  It  must  be 
remembered  that  in  those  days  contraband  was  not 
necessarily  a commerce  of  reproach.  Although  its 
active  agents  were  essentially  of  a:  reckless  type, 
there  were  others  of  considerable  standing  who  were 
more  or  less  directly  interested  in  a traffic  that  they 
held  & legitimate  and  profitable  protest  against  the 
repressive  fiscal  measures  of  Spain. 

It  was  in  the  sparsely  populated  hill  country  of 
the  north  that  Artigas  first  learned  to  control  men 
and  to  command  expeditions.  Once  fairly  settled 
to  the  work,  unusually  numerous  convoys  of  laden 
horses  and  mules  passed  stealthily  southwards  from 
Brazil  through  the  valleys,  forests,  and  streams  of 
the  frontier  districts,  for  the  daring  ventures  of  the 
Uruguayan  leader  met  with  phenomenal  success.  As 
a]  result  his  influence  steadily  increased  among  both 
the  men  of  his  own  race  and  the  semi -civilised 
Indians  of  the  neighbourhood.  The  personality  of 
the,  man  with  the  hawk  nose,  blue  eyes,  and  fair  skin 

6 


82 


URUGUAY 


possessed  the  rare  faculty  of  inspiring  his  followers 
with  personal  affection  as  well  as  with  admiration. 
As  the  years  went  on  his  name  began  to  ring  in 
every  mud  cabin  and  reed  hut,  and  the  numbers  of 
his  adherents  attained  to  formidable  proportions. 

In  the  meanwhile  the  general  disorder  of  the 
country  had  increased  to  a pitch  that  demanded 
active  measures  for  its  repression.  In  1797  the 
Spanish  authorities  raised  a special  corps  of 
Blandengues,  whose  duties  were  fairly  compre- 
hensive. Picked  men,  they  served  as  cavalry, 
police,  as  guards  against  Indian  raids,  and  as  a 
force  to  repress  the  smugglers.  Imbued  with 
a wholesome  respect  for  his  power,  the  Montevidean 
Government  approached  Artigas  by  way  of  the  line 
of  least  resistance.  The  Uruguayan  accepted  an  in- 
vitation to  join  the  corps,  and  soon  proved  himself 
its  most  capable  and  efficient  officer. 

Thus  we  see  Artigas  in  the  blue -and -red  uniform 
of  the  Blandengues,  armed  with  a lance  that  sported 
a steel  crescent  below  its  point,  chasing  smugglers 
instead  of  being  chased,  arresting  criminals,  fighting 
with  intruding  Brazilians,  and  slaying  rebellious 
Indians  with  the  precautionary  enthusiasm  of  the 
period.  His  vindication  of  justice  was  now  as 
thorough  as  had  formerly  been  his  evasion  of  the 
fiscal  laws.  In  1802  a rapid  series  of  promotion 
created  him  Guar  da  General  de  la  Camp  aha,  or 
guardian  officer  general  of  the  rural  districts.  We 
next  hear  of  him  as  taking  part  with  his  regimeht 
against  the  British  invaders  of  the  country  in  1807. 
Then,  in  1810,  began  the  South  American  War  of 
Independence,  and  with  its  outbreak  dawned  the  true 
career  of  the  Uruguayan  popular  hero. 

It  was  not,  however,  until  nine  months  or  so  after 
the  commencement  of  the  campaign  that  Artigas 
threw  in  his  lot  with  the  patriot  forces.  The  imme- 


ARTIGAS 


83 


diate  cause  was  a quarrel  with  his  superior  officer, 
the  Spanish  General  Muesa.  Artigas,  whose  spirit 
was  not  tempered  to  verbal  chastisement,  gave  back 
word  for  word,  until  the  incensed  general  threatened 
to  send  him  in  chains  to  the  neighbouring  island  of 
San  Gabriel.  That  night  the  offended  officer  of 
Blandengues  crossed  the  broad  River  Plate  in  a small 
boat,  was  received  with  acclamation  by  the  Argentine 
leaders,  and  with  their  aid  prepared  an  expedition 
that  should  free  his  country  from  the  Spaniard.  The 
motives  that  brought  about  this  sudden  adherence 
to  the  party  of  independence  have  been  much  in 
dispute.  Hostile  critics  assert  that  the  change  of 
front  was  merely  vindictive,  and  that  it  was  the 
revengeful  fruit  of  wounded  pride  that  sent  him  to 
the  patriot  ranks.  His  supporters  declare  positively 
that  the  dispute  was  of  importance  only  in  so  far 
as  it  gave  him  reason  for  the  long  desired  severance 
of  the  link  that  bound  him  to  the  Spanish  service. 

Be  this  how  it  may,  the  figure  of  Artigas  now 
looms  with  Vastly  increased  bulk  from  the  field  of 
River  Plate  history.  He  is  in  command  of  armies 
now — which  is  the  lot  of  many — winning  battles  with 
them,  moreover,  which  is  the  luck  of  few.  His  official 
rank  is  that  of  Colonel,  but  the  title  of  General  is 
accorded  him  by  all  alike,  whether  his  superiors  or 
inferiors  in  grade.  As  for  his  own  folk  of  Uruguay, 
they  have  grown  to  regard  him  as  a being  of  almost 
superhuman  power,  and  follow  him  with  a devoted 
affection  that  speaks  well  for  the  temperament  of 
the  leader. 

Indeed,  it  was  at  this  period  that  the  famous 
Uruguayan  was  first  enabled  to  show  his  true  mettle. 
His  armies  knew  little  of  the  pomp  of  wa,r.  The 
ragged  companies  looked  up  to  a chief  whose  garb 
was  little  more  warlike  and  pretentious  than  their 
own.  The  goodwill,  however,  that  prevailed  in  the 


84 


URUGUAY 


midst  of  the  Uruguayan  armies  was  not  shared  by  the 
leaders  of  the  united  forces.  Jealousy  between 
Artigas  and  the  Buenos  Aires  generals  had  already 
caused  a breach  that  political  dissensions  rapidly 
widened.  Nations  wlere  in  the  making,  and  the  pro- 
cess was  attended  by  an  almost  inevitable  bitterness. 
Buenos  Aires  urged  a united  republic,  with  its  own 
town  as  the  centre  of  government.  Artigas  strongly 
opposed  this  plan,  proposing  in  its  place  a bond  of 
self-governing  provinces.  Recriminations  and  threats 
were  bandied  to  and  fro  between  the  rival  patriots 
while  the  Spaniards,  though  closely  besieged,  yet 
retained  Montevideo,  and  even  while  the  Portuguese 
were  moving  from  Brazil  to  the  assistance  of  the 
monarchists. 

At  length  the  Portuguese  peril  loomed  sufficiently 
large  to  outweigh  every  other  consideration.  [With 
a view  to  stemming  the  foreign  tide  of  invasion,  the 
Buenos  Airens  patched  up  a treaty  with  the  Spanish 
troops  in  Montevideo.  The  despairing  measure  was 
doubtless  one  of  necessity,  but  it  aroused  deep  passion 
in  the  mind  of  the  Uruguayan  leader,  who  protested 
that  his  country  was  forsaken,  and  given  over  once 
again  to  the  mercies  of  the  Spaniards.  Collecting 
every  available  man,  woman,  and  child,  he  led  them 
to  the  north-west,  and  passed  the  great  exodus  over 
the  River  Uruguay  to  a haven  of  safety  at  Ayui,  upon 
the  Entre  Rios  shore.  Meanwhile,  Uruguay  was 
overrun  by  the  invading  Portuguese  and  by  the 
released  Spaniards,  who  eddied  out  in  all  directions 
from  Montevideo. 

Artigas  was  now  encamped  for  the  first  time  with 
a translated  nation  and  an  independent  army  of  his 
own.  The  condition  of  both  was  grimly  tragic, 
pathetically  humorous.  For  fourteen  months  almost 
the  only  shelter,  that  served  for  all  alike,  was  afforded 
by  the  branches  of  the  trees  and  the  boards  of  the 


ARTIGAS 


85 


carts  that  had;  brought  them.  As  for  the  army,  it 
was  composed  of  strangely  heterogeneous  elements. 
Honest  countryfolk  rubbed  shoulders  with  profes- 
sional criminals  and  cut-throats  ; Indians  from  the 
destroyed  Jesuit  missions  went  side  by  side  with 
fierce -faced  Gauchos  ; while  townsmen,  negroes,  and 
a few  adventurous  foreigners  made  up  the  mixed 
gathering. 

The  men  were  in  deadly  earnest,  since  the  example 
of  Artigas  seems  to  have  inspired  even  the  most 
depraved  with  a spark  from  his  own  fire.  Had  it 
been  otherwise  they  would  undoubtedly  have 
succumbed  to  the  disadvantages  with  which  they  had 
to  contend.  Arms  were  scarce.  A certain  favoured 
few  were  possessed  of  muskets  and  swords  ; but 
the  weapon  in  chief  use  was  the  lance,  the  national 
arm  of  River  Plate  folk,  the  point  of  which,  here 
at  Ayui,  was  usually  fashioned  from  the  blade  of 
shears  or  a knife,  or  from  the  iron  of  some  other 
agricultural  instrument.  Many,  however,  had  per- 
force to  be  content  with  a long  knife,  with  the  lasso 
and  the  sling  — the  bole  adores  — as  subsidiary 
weapons.  Yet  even  these  proved  by  no  means 
despicable  in  the  hands  of  the  men  whose  sole  gar- 
ment was  the  ragged  remnant  of  a poncho  tied  about 
the  waist,  and  who  exercised  with  poles  in  prepara- 
tion for  the  time  when  a musket  should  be  in  their 
hands. 

It  was  with  the  aid  of  ati  army  such  as  this  that 
Artigas  would  cross  the  river  to  make  his  incursions 
among  the  hills  of  his  native  country,  and  would 
engage  Portuguese  and1  Spaniards  alike  in  battles 
from  which  the  desperate  and  motley  companies  of 
men  would  frequently  emerge  victorious.  Artigas 
was  now  assisted  by  numerous  minor  chiefs,  many 
of  whom  were  of  a character  quite  unfitted  to  stand 
the  light  of  day.  O torques  and  Andresito  were  the 


86 


URUGUAY 


most  noted  of  these.  The  methods  of  the  forme* 
were  utterly  brutal.  Although  the  fact  is  Contra- 
dicted, he  is  credited  by  many  with  the  order  to 
a subaltern  officer  to  cut  the  throats  of  two 
Spaniards  a week  in  order  to  preserve  the  morale. 
Failing  Spaniards,  take  two  Buenos  Airens  for  the 
purpose  ” ! 

Andresito  was  an  Indian  from  the  deserted  Jesuit 
missions  who  commanded  a considerable  force  of 
his  own  race.  He  appears  to  have  interspersed  his 
dark  deeds  with  some  evidence  of  better  qualities 
and  even  of  a grim  humour.  A coarse  instance  of 
this  latter  is  supplied  when  he  entered  the  town  of 
Corrientes  in  the  heyday  of  Artigas’s  power.  On  this 
occasion  the  Indian  troops  behaved  with  no  little 
restraint  towards  the  terrified  inhabitants,  and  con- 
tented themselves  with  levying  contributions  towards 
the  clothing  of  the  almost  naked  army.  This  accom- 
plished, Andresito  determined  to  exhibit  the  social 
side  of  his  temperament.  He  organised  several 
religious  dramas,  and  followed  these  by  a ball  ip 
honour  of  the  principal  residents  of  the  town.  These, 
however,  failed  to  attend,  their  reluctance  to  dancing 
with  Indians  overcoming  their  prudence.  On  learning 
the  reason  from  some  crassly  honest  person,  the 
enraged  Andresito  caused  these  too  particular  folk  to 
be  mustered  in  the  main  plaza  of  the  town.  There 
he  obliged  the  men  to  scour  the  roadway,  while 
the  ladies  were  made  to  dance  with  the  Indian 
troops. 

Although  no  merit  or  subtlety  can  be  claimed 
for  such  methods,  they  at  all  events  stand  apart 
from  the  rest  in  their  lack  of  bloodthirstiness.  Com- 
pared with  the  sentiments  revealed  in  a proclama- 
tion of  Otorgues  in  taking  possession  of  Montevideo, 
the  procedure  at  Corrientes  seems  innocuous  and 
tame.  One  of  the  clauses  of  this  document  decrees 


ART1GAS 


87 


the  execution  within  two  hours  of  any  citizen  who 
should  speak  or  write  in  favour  of  any  other  govern- 
ment, while  the  same  fate  was  promised  to  one  “ who 
should  directly  or  indirectly  attack  the  liberty  of  the 
Province  ” ! The  humour  in  the  employment  of  the 
word  “ liberty  ” is,  of  course,  totally  unconscious. 

Such  proclamations,  naturally,  served  purely  and 
simply  as  a licence  for  convenient  murder.  Employ- 
ing lieutenants  of  the  kind,  it  is  little  wonder  that 
much  of  the  guilt  of  their  accumulated  deeds  should 
be  undeservedly  heaped  upon  Artigas’s  head.  Not 
that  the  Commander-in-Chief  himself  was  inclined  to 
put  a sentimental  value  upon  human  life  ; indeed, 
a delicacy  on  this  point  would  be  impossible  in  one 
who  had  passed  through  the  scenes  of  his  particular 
calling.  In  any  case  his  hatred  of  robbery  was  deep- 
rooted  and  sincere.  After  the  execution  of  three 
criminals  of  this  type,  he  proclaims  to  his  people  at 
Ayui  : ‘‘  My  natural  aversion  to  all  crime,  especially 
to  the  horrible  one  of  robbery,  and  my  desire  that  the 
army  should  be  composed  of  honourable  citizens 
. . . has  moved  me  to  satisfy  justice  by  means  of 
a punishment  as  sad  as  it  is  effectual.”  A little 
later  he  makes  a similar  appeal,  adding,  “ if  there 
be  remaining  amongst  you  one  who  does  not  harbour 
sentiments  of  honour,  patriotism,  and  humanity,  let 
him  flee  far  from  the  army  he  dishonours  ” ! Here 
we  get  the  flowers  of  the  south,  earnestly  thrown, 
but  alighting  in  too  earthy  a bed  ! The  poor  army, 
with  its  impoverished,  ragged  loin-cloths,  and  with 
its  lassos  and  slings,  undoubtedly  valued  the  occa- 
sional luxury  of  a full  stomach  at  least  as  highly 
as  the  abstract  virtues.  Yet  they  probably  heard 
the  words  with  sincere  admiration,  feeling  an  added 
pride  in  their  beloved  leader  who  could  employ  such 
phrases.  In  any  case — whether  as  a result  of  punish- 
ments or  proclamations — the  crime  of  robbery  soon 


88 


URUGUAY 


became  rare  almost  to  extinction  within  the  sphere 
of  Artigas ’s  influence. 

The  war  itself  was  each  month  growing  more 
savage  in  character.  Such  virtues  as  the  Uruguayan 
army  possessed  were  recognised  least  of  all  by  the 
Spaniards.  Elio,,  the  Viceroy,  had  erected  d special 
gallows  in  Montevideo  for  the  benefit  of  any  prisoners 
that  might  be  captured,  while  Vigodet,  his  successor, 
endeavoured  to  strike  terror  by  measures  of  pure 
barbarity.  By  his  order  a body  of  cavalry  scoured 
the  countryside,  slaying  all  those  suspected  of  Arti- 
guenian  leanings,  and  exposing  the  quartered  portions 
of  their  bodies  at  prominent  places  by  the  roadside. 
Each  patriot,  moreover,  carried  a price  upon  his 
head.  It  is  not  to:  be  wondered  at  that  the  Uruguayan 
forces  made  reprisals,  and  that  corpses  replaced 
prisoners  of  war. 

A renewed  campaign  waged  by  the  Buenos  Aires 
forces  against  the  Spaniards  was  the  signal  for  the! 
abandonment  of  the  settlement  at  Ayui.  Once  again 
the  Royalists  were  shut  up  within  the  walls  of 
Montevideo,  and  at  the  beginning  of  1813  Artigas, 
with  his  men,  marched  down  from  the  north  to  take 
part  in  the  siege.  The  Uruguayan  came  now’  as  an 
assured  ruler  of  his  own  people  ; the  Buenos  Aires 
commanders  regarded  him  as  a unit  in  a greater 
system.  The  result  was  the  inevitable  quarrel,  and 
a year  from  the  inception  of  the  operations  Artigas 
took  the  most  decisive  step  in  his  career.  He  gave 
no  warning  of  his  move.  The  evening  before  had 
witnessed  his  particular  portion  of  the  field  covered 
with  horses  and  men.  The  next  morning  saw  the 
ground  bare  and  deserted  : Artigas  and  his  army 
were  already  many  leagues  away. 

From  that  moment  Artigas  became  virtual  king 
of  a tom  and  struggling  realm.  The  Buenos  Aires 
authorities,  incensed  at  his  defection,  placed  a price 


“AFTER  cattle.” 


Tj  face  p 88. 


ART1GAS 


89 


of  six  thousand  dollars  on  his  head,  continuing  mean- 
while the  siege  of  Montevideo.  Artigas  retaliated  by 
a formal  declaration  of  war  upon  the  central  Govern- 
ment. The  hostile  ramifications  were  now  sufficiently 
involved  to  satisfy  the  most  warlike  spirit.  Artigas 
was  fighting  the  Buenos  Airens  and  Portuguese,  and 
was  only  prevented  from  coming  to  close  grips  with 
the  Spaniards  by  the  fact  that  the  intervening  Buenos 
Aires  armies  had  already  taken  that  task  upon  them- 
selves. As  it  was,  the  influence  of  the  national  hero 
spread  out  to  the  west  with  an  amazing  rapidity, 
passing  beyond  the  Uruguay  River,  and  holding  good 
upon  the  remote  side  of  the  igreat  Parana  stream 
itself.  In  a very  short  while  his  dominions  in  Argen- 
tine territory  assumed  an  extent  four  times  greater 
than  that  of  his  native  country.  The  provinces  of 
Entre  Rios,  Corrientes,  Santa  Fe,  and  Cordoba  wel- 
comed his  new  tricolour  standard  with  enthusiasm. 

Thus  Artigas  was  now  ruler  of  350,000  square 
miles,  with  the  exception  of  the  various  odd  points 
of  vantage  held  by  the  remaining  three  contending 
powers . 

The  fall  of  Montevideo  and  the  final  ejection  of 
the  Spaniards  from  the  soil  was  followed  by  the 
retirement  of  the  Buenos  Aires  armies  to  their  own 
country.  Thus  to  Artigas ’s  realm  was  added  the 
necessary  complement  of  a capital  and  some  sea- 
going ships  that  served  as  the  nucleus  of  a national 
navy.  The  ex -smuggler  was  now  at  the  zenith  of 
his  power.  It  is  at  this  point  that  he  affords  by 
far  the  most  interesting  picture,  since  the  amazing 
medley  of  sentiments  for  which  his  character  was 
responsible  were  now1  given  full  play.  Caring  nothing 
for  pomp  and  ceremony,  he  sent  Otorgues  to  rule 
Montevideo,  while  his  other  chiefs  assumed  control 
of  the  various  districts  throughout  the  provinces.  He 
himself,  true  to  his  Gaucho  upbringing,  avoided  all 


90 


URUGUAY 


towns,  and  finally  settled  himself  in  the  north-west 
of  Uruguay.  On  a tableland  by  the  banks  of  the 
great  river,  some  score  of  miles  to  the  south  of 
Salto,  he  established  a camp  from  which  he  directed 
the  policy  of  the  five  provinces  that  owned  to  his 
rule. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  this  encampment  of 
Hervidero  was  another,  in  which  were  confined  those 
prisoners  whose  offences  were  not  considered  worthy 
of  immediate  death.  Serving  as  it  did  to  cleanse 
doubtful  minds  of  rebellion,  it  was  christened  by  the 
euphuistic  name  of  Purificacion.  There  is  no  doubt 
that  the  methods  employed  for  this  exalted  purpose 
often  ended  fatally  for  the  unfortunates  experimented 
upon.  The  popular  tales  of  the  deeds  done  at  both 
encampments  are  extraordinarily  revolting.  Two 
phrases  of  jocular  slang  then  much  in  use  throw  a 
lurid  light  upon  the  callousness  of  the  period.  “ To 
play  the  violin  ” referred  to  the  cutting  of  a human 
throat  ; " to  play  the  viola  ” signified  the  severance 
of  a live  man’s  body — both  gruesomely  accurate 
similes.  Men  are  said  to  have  been  flung  wholesale 
into  the  river,  attached  to  stones,  and  a peculiarly 
agonising  form  of  death  was  engineered  in  the  sewing 
up  of  a living  victim  in  the  hide  of  a freshly  killed 
bullock,  which  was  then  exposed  to  the  sun.  The 
result  was  shrinkage,  and  suffocation  for  the  miser- 
able wretch  within  the  reeking  covering,  an  ending 
that  was  dubbed  ‘‘  the  waistcoat  ” by  a touch  of 
similar  humour.  Numerous  evidences  of  indi- 
viduality, moreover,  were  evident  in  the  various  forms 
of  punishment.  Thus  a certain  Colonel  Perugorria, 
who  lay  under  a charge  of  treason,  was,  until  his 
execution,  chained  to  a post,  as  though  he  were  a 
dog,  by  means  of  an  iron  collar  round  his  neck,  to 
which  the  steel  links  were  attached. 

Many  of  Artigas’s  supporters  roundly  deny  the  per- 


ARTIGAS 


91 


petration  of  these  horrors  ; yet  there  is  little  doubt 
that  many  such  acts  were  committed  throughout  the 
various  provinces.  To  what  extent  they  received 
the  sanction  of  Artigas  is  far  more  uncertain.  The 
probability  is  that  he  strongly  discouraged  wanton 
torture,  although  it  lay  beyond  even  such  powers  as 
his  to  hold  back  the  Gaucho  passions  when  they 
were  fiercest  and1  to  prevent  the  merciless  acts  of 
revenge.  Many  eye-witnesses  have  related  that  he 
exhibited  emotion  and  pity  at  the  sight  of  a humanely 
conducted  execution. 

Indeed,  there  is  no  reason  to  suppose  that  Artigas, 
for  all  his  errors  and  limitations,  was  not  a true 
believer  in  the  very  lofty  sentiments  he  used  to 
express.  One  of  the  many  examples  of  these  is  to 
be  met  with  in  his  letter  to  the  local  authorities  of 
Montevideo,  when  in  1815  they  endowed  him  with  the 
title  of  Captain-General,  with  the  addition  of  that 
of  “ Protector  and  Patron  of  the  Liberty  of  the 
Nation.”  Artigas,  refusing  the  honour,  which,  never- 
theless, remained  attached  to  him,  says  : “ Titles 

are  the  phantoms  of  States,  and  the  glory  of  up- 
holding liberty  suffices  for  your  illustrious  corpora- 
tion. Let  us  teach  our  countrymen  to  be  virtuous. 
For  this  reason  I have  retained  until  now  the  rank 
of  a simple  citizen  . . . the  day  will  come  when 
men  will  act  from  a sense  of  duty>  and  when  they 
will  devote  their  best  interests  to  the  honour  of  their 
fellow-men.” 

The  simplicity  of  Artigas  was  innate  and  genuine. 
One  of  his  own  nationality,  on  a visit  to  Hervidera, 
describes  the  costume  of  the  dreaded  leader.  On 
that  occasion  Artigas  was  content  with  the  plain 
costume  of  a countryman — plain  blue  jacket  and 
pantaloons,  white  stockings,  and  a skin  cloak,  all 
rather  shabby.  The  paraphernalia  of  a meal  was  of 
similar  quality,  and  in  addition  lamentably  scanty. 


92 


URUGUAY 


Broth,  a stew  of  meat,  and  roast  beef  were1  served 
on  a couple  of  pewter  djishes  with  broken  edges  ; 
a single  cup  took  the  place  of  non-existent  wine- 
glasses ; no  more  than  three  earthenware  plates  could 
be  mustered,  and,  since  the  seating  accommodation 
was  restricted  to  three  chairs  and  a hide  box,  the 
majority  of  the  guests  had  perforce  to  stand.  Such 
were  the  clothes  and  household  goods  of  the  ford 
of  five  provinces,  whose  armies  were  battling  with 
Portuguese  Peninsular  War  veterans  and  with  Argen- 
tine battalions,  whose  vessels  had  borne  his  flag  to 
Europe  to  harass  hostile  vessels  off  the  coasts  of! 
Portugal  itself,  who  made  treaties  with  England  and 
other  powers,  and  whose  name  was  all  but 
worshipped  by  a hundred  thousand  people  ! 

J.  P.  Robertson,  an  English  chronicler  of  the 
period,  gives  an  interesting  account  of  a meeting 
with  Artigas.  Assaulted  and  robbed  by  a band  of 
the  noted  chief’s  adherents,  he  boldly  set  out  for 
Purificacion  to  claim  redress.  His  words  deserve 
quotation  at  some  length.  “ I came  to  the  Pro- 
tector’s headquarters,”  he  says,  “ of  the  so-called 
town  of  Purificacion.  And  there  (I  pray  you  do  not 
turn  sceptic  on  my  hands)  what  do  you  think  I saw? 
Why,  the  most  excellent  Protector  of  half  the  New 
World,  seated  on  a bullock’s  skull,  at  a fire  kindled1 
on  the  mud  floor  of  his  hut,  eating  beef  off  a spit, 
and  drinking  gin  out  of  a cow  horn  ! He  was  sur- 
rounded by  a dozen  officers  in  weather  beaten  attire, 
in  similar  positions,  and  similarly  occupied  with  their, 
chief.  All  were  smoking,  all  gabbling.  The  Pro- 
tector was  dictating  to  two  secretaries,  who  occupied, 
at  one  deal  table,  the  only  two  dilapidated  rush 
bottom  chairs  in  the  hovel.  To  complete  the  singular, 
incongruity  of  the  scene,  the  floor  of  the  one  apart- 
ment of  the  mud  hut  (to  be  sure  it  was  a pretty 
large  one)  in  which  the  general,  his  staff,  and  secre- 


ARTIGAS 


93 


taries,  were  assembled,  wias  strewn  with  pompous 
envelopes  from  all  the  Provinces  (some  of  them  dis- 
tant some  1,500  miles  from  that  centre  of  operations) 
addressed  to  ‘His  Excellency  the  Protector.’  At  the 
door  stood  the  reeking  horses  of  couriers  arriving 
every  half  hour,  and  the  fresh  ones  of  those  depart- 
ing as  often.  . . . His  Excellency  the  Protector, 
seated  on  his  bullock’s  skull,  smoking,  eating, 
drinking,  dictating,  talking,  dispatched  in  succession 
the  various  matters  brought  under  his  notice  with 
that  calm,  or  deliberate,  but  uninterrupted  non- 
chalance, which  brought  most  practically  home  to 
me  the  truth  of  the  axiom,  ‘ Stop  a little  that  we 
may  get  on  the  faster.’  ...  He  received  me,  not 
only  with  cordiality,  but  with  what  surprised  me 
more,  comparatively  gentlemanlike  manners,  and 
really  good  breeding.  . . . The  Protector’s  business 
was  prolonged  from  morning  till  evening,  and  so  were 
his  meals  ; for,  as  one  courier;  arrived  another  was 
dispatched,  and  as  one  officer  rose  up  from  the  fire 
at  which  the  meat  was  spitted  another  took  his  place.” 
The  General  politely  took  his  visitor  the  round 
of  his  hide  huts  and  mud  hovels,  where  the  horses 
stood  saddled  and  bridled  day  and  night,  and  where 
the  tattered  soldiery  waited  in  readiness  for  the 
emergencies  that  arose  so  frequently.  When 
Robertson  submitted  his  financial  claim,  Artigas  re- 
mained as  amiable  as  before.  “ ‘ You  see,’  said  the 
General  with  great  candour  and  nonchalance,  ‘ how 
we  live  here;  ; and  it  is  as  much  as  we  can  do,  in  these 
hard  times,  to  compass  beef,  aguardiente,  and  cigars. 
To  pay  you  6,000  dollars  just  now  is  as  much  beyond 
my  power,  as  it  would  be  to:  pay  you  60,000  or 
600,000.  Look  here,’  said  he,  and  so  saying,  he 
lifted  up  the  lid  of  an  old  military  chest,  and  pointed 
to  a 2 canvas  bag  at  the  bottom  of  it.  ‘ There,’  he 
continued,  1 is  my  whole  stock  of  cash  ; it  amounts 


94 


URUGUAY 


to  300  dollars  ; and  where  the  next  supply  is  to  come 
from  I am  as  little  aware  as  you  are.’  ” Notwith- 
standing this,  Robertson  then  and  there  obtained 
some  trading  concessions  that,  he  says,  repaid  him 
the  amount  of  his  claim  many  times  over. 

Surely  this  picture  reveals  Artigas  more  truly  than 
ail  the  long-winded  polemics  that  have  raged  about 
the  famous  Uruguayan.  It  is  given  by  one  whose 
sympathies  were  against  the  aims  of  the  Gaucho 
chief,  and  who  has  proved  himself  no  lenient  critic. 
Yet  the  description  fits  no  mere  cut-throat  and  plun- 
derer. On  the  contrary,  it  reveals  a virile 
personality,  a thinker  and  worker  of  a disposition 
that  goes  far  to  explain  the  adoration  accorded 
him  by  his  troops.  Artigas,  at  the  hands  of 
the  visitor  who  had  sufficient  cause  for  his  ridicule, 
comes  to  light  as  a man — contemptuous  of  poverty, 
misery,  and  sordid  surroundings  so  long  as  his  goal 
remained  as  clear  and  distinct  as  it  ever  was  to  his 
sight . 

The  picture  is  not  without  its  pathetic  side.  It 
shows  Artigas  in  the  heyday  of  his  power,  yet  even 
then  hard  put  to  it  to  supply  his  men  with  clothes 
and  the  common  necessities  of  life.  Imagine  the 
calm  force  and  philosophy  of  a being  capable  of 
governing  more  than  a third'  of  ja  million  square 
miles  of  territory  with  the  assistance  of  a treasury 
of  three  hundred  dollars  ! Nevertheless,  these  opera 
\bouffe  conditions  represented  the  highest  point  of 
material  prosperity  to  which  Artigas  ever  attained. 
For  five  years  he  ruled  thus,  grappling  desperately 
with  the  invading  Brazilian  armies,  and  resisting  the 
efforts  of  the  Buenos  Aires  forces  to  regain  con- 
trol of  the  four  Argentine  provinces  that  had  espoused 
his  cause. 

With  a prosperity  thus  frugally  marked,  it  is  easy 
to  conceive  the  circumstances  of  the  adversity  that 


ARTIGAS 


95 


was  to  come.  To  their  credit  be  it  said  that  the 
Uruguayans  faltered  not  in  the  least  in  the  face  of 
the  ultimate  doom  that  must  have  appeared  in- 
evitable. As  their  ranks  became  steadily  thinned, 
the  invading  hordes  of  Portuguese  soldiers  swelled 
in  numbers,  while  the  Buenos  Aires  attacks  on  the 
river  provinces  became  yet  more  determined.  Yet, 
wanting  in  everything,  its  more  capable  and  intelli- 
gent officers  prisoners  of  war,  the  Uruguayans 
fought  on  to  the  very  end — gaunt,  haggard  men  who 
gave  back  blow  for  blow,  though  their  courage  was 
often  sustained  by  no  other  means  than  the  chewing 
of  strips  of  hide.  One  of  the  officers  of  a regiment 
of  lancers,  once  the  pride  of  the  army,  describes 
the  condition  of  the  men  in  the  last  days  of  the 
struggle.  At  reveille,  on  a chilly  winter’s  morning, 
each  trooper  would  supplement  the  loin-cloth  that 
alone  remained  to  him  by  a whole  cowhide.  Thus 
when  their  backs  were  turned  as  they  retired  to 
their  quarters,  the  number  of  men  could  only  be 
judged  by  the  quantity  of  moving  cowhides  ! 

Even  then  the  final  hour  might  have  been  indefi- 
nitely postponed  but  for  the  revolt  of  Ramirez,  one 
of  Artigas’s  own  chieftains.  After  a homeric  struggle, 
Ramirez  obtained  the  victory  over  his  old  leader,  and 
pursued  him  relentlessly  through  the  provinces  of 
Corrientes  and  Misiones.  It  was  by  this  incessant 
chase  alone  that  the  victor  retained  his  superiority. 
For  such  was  the  popularity  of  Artigas  that  a few 
days’  halt  sufficed  for  a number  of  fresh  Gauchos 
and  Indians  to  join  him.  When  he  had  escaped  from 
his  penultimate  defeat,  accompanied  by  only  twelve 
men,  his  pursuer  lost  touch  with  him  for  a week. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  the  veteran  had  collected 
over  nine  hundred  men,  and  was  besieging  Cambay, 
one  of  Ramirez’s  strongholds.  A division  was  sent 
Off  post-haste  to  the  spot,  and  it  was  here  that  the 


96 


URUGUAY 


old  warrior  fought  his  last  fight.  Artigas,  leaving 
most  of  his  men  dead  upon  the  field.,  fled  north- 
wards and  passed  into  Paraguay. 

The  later  years  of  Artigas  present  the  strangest 
contrast  to  his  early  life.  Received  and  sheltered! 
after  some  hesitation  by  Francia,  the  dreaded  tyrant 
of  Paraguay,  he  was  first  allotted  a dwelling  in  the; 
north  of  the  country,  and  was  afterwards  permitted 
to  dwell  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Asuncion,  the 
capital.  Here  he  lived  in  complete  retirement  and 
peace  until  his  death  occurred,  at  the  advanced  age 
of  eighty -three.  Both  his  time  and  the  small  pension 
allowed  him  by  the  Paraguayan  Government  were 
spent  in  relieving  the  wants  of  his  neighbours,  by, 
whom  he  was  regarded  with  affection  and  veneration. 
The  keynote  to  the  true  Artigas  undoubtedly  lies 
in  these  last  years,  when  in  humble  tranquillity  he 
had  leisure  at  length  to  practise  the  benevolence 
and  charity  that  he  had  so  often  preached  from  a 
corpse-surrounded  pulpit.  Difficult  as  it  is  to  with- 
draw the  personality  of  Artigas  from  the  sea  of  blood 
that  flooded  his  age,  he  was  surely  a product  of  an 
anarchical  period  rather  than  of  anarchy  itself. 


CHAPTER  VII 

HISTORY 

The  Spanish  colonies  as  nations — The  firstfruits  of  freedom — Uruguay 
beneath  the  heel  of  Portugal — The  advent  of  a second  liberator — Juan 
Antonio  Lavalleja — The  forming  of  the  league  of  the  “thirty-three” 
— Opening  of  the  campaign — The  patriot  force — Rank  and  its  distribu- 
tion— The  crossing  of  the  River  Plate — Commencement  of  operations 
in  Uruguay — A first  success — Spread  of  the  movement — Rivera 
embraces  the  patriot  cause — The  march  upon  Montevideo — A daring 
siege — How  the  army  of  occupation  was  deceived — Timely  reinforce- 
ments— Lavalleja  establishes  an  independent  government — Incident  at 
the  opening  of  the  Senate — Argentina  comes  to  the  assistance  of 
Uruguay — Beginning  of  the  rivalry  between  Rivera  and  Lavalleja — 
Dissension  in  the  Uruguayan  army — Temporary  disgrace  of  Rivera — 
His  acquittal — Lavalleja  declares  himself  dictator — Uruguay’s  inde- 
pendence acknowledged  by  Argentina  and  Brazil — The  national 
authorities  enter  Montevideo. 


The  end  of  the  year  1824  witnessed  the  extinction 
of  the  last  vestige  of  the  power  of  Spain  in  South 
America.  With  one  solitary  exception,  each  former 
Spanish  colony  had  now  raised  itself  to  the  status  of 
a nation.  It  is  true  that  in  the  majority  of  cases 
the  inhabitants  of  these  countries  suffered  not  only 
the  wildest  of  anarchy,  but  in  addition  a degree  of 
despotism  that  had  been  unknown  during  the  Spanish 
regime,  for  all  the  selfishness  of  the  Peninsula 
Government.  Yet  since  the  flock  of  tyrants  that 
rose  up,  each  like  a grim1  phoenix,  from  the  ashes 
of  the  Spanish  Dominion  were  conceived  of  the 
tortured  countries  themselves,  the  South  Americans 

7 97 


98 


URUGUAY 


took  such  small  comfort  as  they  might  from  a dim 
reflection  that  in  their  own  hands  lay  the  possibility 
of  the  improvement  in  the  rulers  born  from  their 
own  bone. 

Of  these  States  thus  freed  from  any  other  despotism 
but  of  their  own  making  Uruguay  formed  the  sole 
exception.  For  years  she  had  remained  beneath  the 
heel  of  Portugal,  writhing  uneasily,  but  unable  to 
remove  the  weight  of  the  foreign  occupation.  When 
the  time  came  for  the  full  independence  of  the  rest, 
however,  Uruguay’s  longing  to  acquire  their  State  was 
no  longer  to  be  repressed,  even  at  the  cost  of  the 
expulsion  of  the  second  European  power  that  had 
fixed  upon  the  land. 

The  man  whose  name  stands  out  as  the  liberator 
of  Uruguay  for  the  second  time  is  Juan  Antonio 
Lavalleja.  Ceding  place  only  to  Artigas  as  a national 
hero,  Lavalleja  had  fought  in  many  actions  against 
the  Spaniards,  and  had  distinguished  himself  not  a 
little  in  the  original  revolutionary  wars.  Alternate 
military  and  civil  occupations  have  nearly  always 
fallen  to  the  lot  of  South  American  public  men,  and 
Lavalleja  formed  no  exception  to  the  rule.  At  the 
time  when  the  victory  of  Ayacucho  in  Peru  crowned 
the  entire  campaign  against  the  Spaniards  he  held 
the  comparatively  humble  and  prosaic  post  of 
manager  of  a meat-curing  factory  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Buenos  Aires. 

The  rejoicings  that  the  victory  of  Ayacucho 
aroused  in  the  capital  of  Argentina  stirred  to  the 
depth  both  Lavalleja  and  a company  of  fellow-exiles 
from  the  Banda  Oriental.  A meeting  of  these 
patriots  was  held  on  the  spot,  the  result  of  which 
was  an  enthusiastic  determination  to  place  their  own 
country  upon  the  same  footing  as  the  rest.  Doubtless 
many  hundreds  of  similar  gatherings  had  already 
been  effected — and  concluded  by  vapourings  of  thin 


HISTORY 


99 


air.  But  the  spirit  of  these  men  who  had  thus  come 
together  was  of  another  kind.  Having  sworn 
solemnly  to  free  their  country,  action  followed  hot- 
foot on  the  heels  of  words.  A couple  of  their  number 
were  sent  at  once  to  Uruguay  to  prepare  the  minds 
of  a trusted  few,  while  the  rest  made  preparations 
for  the  expedition  that  was  to  follow. 

The  mission  of  the  two  deputies  proved  successful. 
They  returned  to  Buenos  Aires,  the  bearers  of  many 
promises  of  support  and  co-operation.  Nothing  now 
remained  but  to  take  the  first  irrevocable  step  in  the 
campaign  that  was  to  bloom  out  from  this  very 
humble  seed. 

“ Treinta  y Tres  ” has  now  developed  into  a:  proper 
name  in  the  Banda  Oriental  ; for  the  number  of  men 
who  started  out  from  Buenos  Aires  for  the  sake  of 
Uruguay  was  thirty-three.  The  name  has  now  been 
locally  immortalised.  Among  the  infinite  variety  of 
objects  that  it  endows  may  be  counted  a province,  a 
town,  innumerable  plazas  and  streets,  and  a brand  of 
cigarettes. 

There  is  certainly  nothing  that  is  intrinsically 
humorous  in  the  adventures  of  these  noble  men  who 
set  out  for  their  patriotic  purpose  in  the  face  of 
such  terrible  risks.  Yet  as  a specimen  of  the  con- 
stitution of  the  armies  of  the  South  American  factions 
at  this  period  a survey  of  the  grades  held  by 
the  small  gathering  is  illuminating.  In  the  first 
place  the  diminutive  expedition  had  for  its  Com- 
mander-in-Chief  Colonel  Juan  Antonio  Lavalleja, 
who  had  beneath  him  three  majors  and  four  captains. 
These  in  turn  were  supported  by  three  lieutenants, 
an  ensign,  a sergeant,  a corporal,  and  a guide.  The 
remaining  eighteen  constituted  the  rank  and  file  of 
the  force — in  fact,  the  Army  proper. 

The  little  expedition  so  overwhelmingly  officered 
set  out  from  Buenos  Aires,  proceeding  northward 


100 


URUGUAY 


along  the  Argentine  shore.  Reaching  a point  where 
the  river  had  become  comparatively  narrow,  they 
embarked  in  small  boats,  and  launched  out  on  the 
Uruguay  at  dead  of  night.  A gale  obliged  them  to 
seek  refuge  on  a friendly  island,  and  caused  a day’s 
delay.  But  the  next  evening  they  embarked  once 
more,  and  reached  in  safety  the  beach  of  La 
Agraciada  on  their  native  shore.  There  they  un- 
furled their  chosen  tricoloured  banner,  and  swore 
once  again  to  attain  liberty  or  death. 

The  expedition  was  now  actually  on  the  scene  of  its 
mission,  and  shortly  after  daybreak  it  began  its  march 
to  the  north.  During  the  course  of  a few  hours  they 
collected  en  route  reinforcements  of  forty  able-bodied 
and  armed  Orientales. 

Proceeding  steadily  onwards,  the  gallant  little 
army,  officers  and  all,  found  itself  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  small  town  of  Dolores,  better  known 
formerly  as  San  Salvador.  This  was  held  by  a 
garrison  of  eighty  men  in  the  service  of  Brazil. 
Determined  to  inflict  a first  decisive  blow,  Lavalleja 
led  his  men  onwards  to  the  attack.  The  moment 
chanced  to  be  especially  propitious,  since  the  officers 
and  principal  men  in  the  town  had  attended  a dance 
on  the  previous  night.  So  great  had  been  the  delights 
of  the  bane  that  the  principal  men  had  found  it 
necessary  to  continue  their  repose  long  into  the 
morning — a circumstance  that  is  not  unknown  even 
to  this  day. 

Plad  it  not  been  for  an  error  on  the  part  of  the 
patriot  guide  the  town  would  undoubtedly  have  been 
captured  by  surprise  and  taken  almost  without  a 
blow.  As  it  was,  the  official  chanced  to  mistake  the 
situation  of  a ford  in  an  intervening  small  river.  This 
necessitated  a lengthy  march  along  the  banks  ere  a 
place  suitable  for  the  passage  was  found,  and  the 
presence  of  the  small  company  with  the  tricoloured 


HISTORY 


101 


flag  was  discovered  with  amazement  by  the  inhabit- 
ants. 

Thus  ere  Lavalleja’s  expedition  had  succeeded  in 
crossing  the  stream  there  had  been  moments  of  wild 
bustle  in  Dolores.  Officers  sprang  out  of  bed  to  gird 
on  their  swords  in  haste  ; soldiers  ran  to  assemble 
with  uniforms  even  more  than  usually  awry,  while 
the  municipal  officers  doubtless  ran  to  and  fro  in 
aimless  confusion.  Nevertheless  by  the  time  that  the 
turmoil  was  at  an  end  the  garrison  had  had  an  oppor- 
tunity to  muster,  and  to  sally  out  against  the 
advancing  band  that  had  not  yet  gained  the  town. 

Since  the  Portuguese  forces  were  under  the  com- 
mand of  an  Oriental,  Colonel  Julian  Laguna,  a parley 
took  place  ere  the  two  forces  met.  In  the  end, 
Laguna  deciding  to  remain  staunch  to  the  foreign 
cause,  the  thirty-three  and  their  allies  charged, 
routing  the  enemy  completely.  Thus  in  the  course  of 
their  first  victory  they  won  not  only  the  town  of 
Dolores  itself,  but  a number  of  Uruguayan  volunteers 
who  joined  them  from  out  of  the  beaten  force. 

The  thirty-three  with  their  companions,  delaying 
a very  short  while  in  the  captured  town,  continued 
their  march.  A more  pressing  danger  now  menaced 
them.  General  Rivera,  the  Oriental  who,  having  so 
distinguished  himself  in  the  former  wars  against  the 
Portuguese,  had  entered  the  latter  service  when  the 
Uruguayan  cause  became  lost,  was  sent  out  with  a 
force  of  seventy  men  to  annihilate  the  daring 
aggressors.  Here,  again,  when  numbers  and  rank 
are  compared,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  regular  forces 
of  the  country  were  more  or  less  on  a par  with  the 
thirty-three  in  their  generosity  in  the  matter  of 
titles. 

Nevertheless,  however  it  was  commanded,  the 
thirty-three  were  destined  to  gain  yet  further  support 
from  the  force  detached  against  them.  On  his  near 


102 


URUGUAY 


approach  to  the  devoted  band,  Rivera’s  patriotic 
instincts  overcame  all  other  considerations.  At 
a meeting  contrived  between  him  and  Lavalleja 
the  pair  embraced,  and  Rivera  forsook  the  Brazilian 
service  on  the  spot  to  join  the  cause  of  his  country. 
The  addition  to  their  ranks  of  the  famous  fighter  and 
his  men  was  naturally  greeted  with  enthusiasm  by 
the  patriots,  who  advanced  filled  with  renewed  con- 
fidence. On  the  other  hand,  the  news  of  the  defection 
created  no  little  consternation  among  the  Brazilians, 
who  set  a price  upon  the  heads  of  both  Rivera  and 
Lavalleja,  valuing  the  former  at  five  hundred  dollars 
more  than  the  fifteen  hundred  offered  for  Lavalleja, 
although  the  latter  remained  the  actual  commander 
of  the  expedition. 

The  thirty-three  had  now  abandoned  their  cautious 
north-west  fringing  of  the  coast.  With  their  numbers 
increasing  as  they  went,  they  struck  for  the  south-east, 
making  boldly  for  Montevideo  itself,  and  defeating 
the  various  Portuguese  forces  that  strove  to  oppose 
them. 

Arrived  at  length  at  San  Jose,  some  three  score 
miles  distant  from  Montevideo,  Lavalleja  determined 
on  an  especially  daring  move  that  proved  his  appre- 
ciation of  the  value  of  prestige.  From  there  he  sent 
all  his  prisoners  with  a strong  guard  under  Rivera  to 
Durazno,  and  at  Canelones,  farther  on,  he  detached 
another  party  to  obtain  recruits  from  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Maldonado.  He  himself,  accompanied  now 
by  no  more  than  a hundred  men,  continued  in 
supreme  unconcern  his  march  to  Montevideo. 
Arriving  upon  the  outskirts  of  the  spot,  he  encamped 
on  the  Cerrito  de  la  Victoria,  whence,  employing  a 
colossal  piece  of  bluff,  he  set  himself  to  besiege 
the  city. 

It  is  surely  not  often  that  a hundred  men  have  sat 
down  to  invest  a fortified  town  garrisoned  by  nearly 


103 


HISTORY 

two  thousand  soldiers.  Yet  it  was  in  the  amazing 
effrontery  of  the  proceeding  that  success  lay.  On  the 
very  next  day  a strong  force  of  the  enemy,  numbering 
over  fifteen  hundred  men  with  four  guns,  sallied  out 
from  Montevideo.  The  hundred  besiegers  must 
doubtless  have  thought  that  all  was  lost  ; but, 
continuing  the  grim  farce  to  the  end,  they  opened  fire 
to  the  best  of  their  ability  upon  the  advancing 
columns.  The  result  more  than  fulfilled  their  most 
sanguine  expectations.  Convinced  that  the  furious 
fusillade  emanated  from  a powerful  army,  the 
Portuguese  columns  retired  into  the  town,  while  the 
hundred  men  sat  down  again  to  continue  the  siege  of 
Montevideo. 

But  their  number  did  not  now  long  remain  at  this 
ridiculously  inadequate  total.  By  twos  and  tens  and 
even  by  hundreds  the  Orientales  escaped  from  the 
city,  flocking  to  the  tricolour  banner  until  the  patriot 
army  had  swollen  to  a degree  that  rendered  it  formid- 
able in  fact  as  well  as  in  fancy.  So  successful,  more- 
over, had  proved  Rivera’s  mission  in  the  Campo  that 
in  a few  days  almost  the  whole  of  Uruguay  was  in 
arms  against  the  enemy’s  forces  in  its  midst. 

The  work  of  the  thirty-three  had  been  extraor- 
dinarily rapid.  So  successful,  indeed,  had  been  the 
campaign  that,  in  the  place  of  disputing  against 
another’s  authority,  the  moment  had  arrived  for 
setting  up  their  own,  against  which  it  should  be 
treason  to  contend. 

In  order  to  effect  this  Lavalleja  withdrew 
personally  from  the  siege  of  Montevideo,  and 
established  an  independent  government  at  the  town 
of  Florida  to  the  north  of  the  capital.  Moved  by 
a truly  lofty  sense  of  patriotism1,  he  handed  over  his 
leadership  to  the  new  authorities,  who  responded  by 
creating  him  General-in-Chief  of  the  Army  of  Libera- 
tion, and  by  endowing  Rivera  with  the  rank  of 


104 


URUGUAY 


Inspector-General.  On  this  occasion  the  titles 
conveyed  some  material  significance,  since  the 
Uruguayan  Army  now  amounted  to  two  thousand  five 
hundred  men. 

The  opening  of  this  new  Senate  was  attended  by 
a dramatic  incident.  In  order  to  be  present  at  the 
assembly  it  was  necessary  for  Lavalleja  to  leave  the 
front  of  hostilities  and  to  ride  through  rain  and  mud 
to  Florida. 

Ere  entering  the  Hall  of  Assembly  he  was  met  by 
several  ladies,  amongst  whom  was  the  wife  of  Rivera, 
who  begged  him  to  change  his  dripping  costume 
before  he  proceeded  with  the  official  business. 
“ Thank  you,  senoras,”  replied  Lavalleja,  “ I will 
attend  to  that  as  soon  as  our  country  has  its  govern- 
ment.” Within  a few  minutes  the  consummation  had 
been  achieved,  and  Lavalleja  was  in  dry  clothes.  The 
story  affords  only  one  more  instance  of  the  numerous 
inevitable  satellites  that  attend  the  passage  of  a 
notable  name  through  the  ages  ; but  here  the 
ingenuous  simplicity  of  the  tale  is  almost  sufficient 
in  itself  to  vouch  for  its  truth.  At  this  point, 
properly  speaking,  ends  the  story  of  the  thirty -three. 
Beneath  the  national  edifice  that  they  had  built  up  the 
minor  members  of  the  devoted  band  had  already 
become  lost  to  view.  The  control  of  affairs  was  now 
vested  in  a Senate  and  Corporations,  and  Argentina, 
hastening  to  recognise  the  existence  of  the  inde- 
pendent Government,  sent  her  armies  to  its  assistance, 
stipulating  that  in  exchange  for  the  alliance  Uruguay 
should  become  one  of  the  provinces  of  the  River 
Plate. 

With  the  survival  of  the  first  perils,  moreover,  the 
cohesion  of  the  leaders  of  the  famous  thirty-three 
passed  away.  During  the  course  of  the  final  battles 
against  the  Portuguese  a rivalry  sprang  into  exist- 
ence between  Lavalleja  and  Rivera  that  gradually 


HISTORY 


105 


deepened  into  a jealous  antagonism  that  has  left  its 
mark  of  bitterness  upon  the  country  to  this  day. 

With  the  growing  certainty  of  the  success  of  the 
cause,  and,  consequently,  of  the  honours  and  power  in 
store  for  the  chosen  few  among  the  patriot  ranks 
dissension  and  suspicion  became  rampant.  One  of 
the  more  immediate  outcomes  of  this  regrettable 
state  was  the  falling  under  suspicion  of  Rivera. 
Accused  of  opening  up  negotiations  with  the  Portu- 
guese, he  was  sent  to  Buenos  Aires  for  trial. 
Acquitted  by  President  Rivadavia  of  traitorous  intent, 
he  was,  nevertheless,  held  in  prison  owing  to  his 
outspoken  federal  views,  which  were  in  direct  opposi- 
tion to  the  Unitarian  doctrines  of  Argentina.  After  a 
while,  however,  he  escaped  from  captivity,  and, 
collecting  an  army,  completely  re-established  his 
reputation  by  invading  and  conquering  the  Misiones 
districts  that  were  then  in  the  power  of  the  Portu- 
guese. Although  the  territory  was  in  the  end  ceded 
back  again,  the  invasion  was  of  material  effect  in 
concluding  the  war. 

When,  moreover,  after  the  rout  of  the  Portuguese 
fleet  by  the  Argentine  Admiral  Brown,  and  the  series 
of  victories  that  culminated  in  the  battle  of  Ituzaingo, 
it  became  evident  that  the  expulsion  of  the  Portu- 
guese from  Uruguayan  soil  was  now  inevitable  within 
a very  short  time,  Lavalleja  did  not  wait  for  any 
definite  conclusion  of  peace.  In  October  of  1827, 
when,  as  a matter  of  fact,  the  terms  of  an  armistice 
were  still  in  dispute,  he  deposed  the  national  Junta, 
and  without  further  ado  declared  himself  Dictator 
of  his  country.  This  office  he  held  until  July  of  the 
following  year,  when  he  voluntarily  resigned  from 
the  post. 

August  witnessed  a formal  acknowledgment  of 
the  independence  of  Uruguay  by  both  Argentina  and 
Brazil,  and  in  November  a provisional  Government 


106 


URUGUAY 


was  established.  On  May  i,  1829,  the  national 
authorities,  amidst  no  little  pomp  and  ceremony,  made 
a formal  entry  into  Montevideo,  and  Uruguay  was  at 
last  definitely  left  to  the  care  of  its  own  rulers. 


CHAPTER  VIII 


HISTORY — continued 

Foreign  war  succeeded  by  internal  chaos — Warriors  as  statesmen — The 
dictatorship  of  Lavalleja — His  methods — The  first  open  breach  between 
Lavalleja  and  Rivera — A temporary  reconciliation — Establishment 
of  the  Constitution  of  Uruguay — Lavalleja  and  Rivera  candidates  for 
the  President’s  chair — Differences  in  the  temperaments  of  the  two — 
Rivera  is  elected  first  President  of  Uruguay — Jealousies  and  intrigue 
— Attack  upon  Rivera — Narrow  escape  of  the  President — Lavalleja’s 
party  temporarily  occupy  Montevideo — Defeat  of  the  insurgent 
general — His  flight  into  Brazil — Intervention  of  the  Argentine 
Dictator  Rosas — His  support  of  Lavalleja — Combined  forces  beaten 
by  Rivera — Lavalleja’s  second  attempt  proves  unsuccessful — General 
Oribe  , succeeds  Rivera  as  President — Lavalleja’s  party  again  in  the 
ascendant — Rivera  heads  a revolution — Civil  war — Intervention  of 
France — Resignation  of  Oribe — Rivera  elected  President — His 
alliance  with  the  French  and  Corrientines — Declaration  of  war  against 
Rosas — Defeat  of  the  latter — On  the  withdrawal  of  the  French  Rosas 
resumes  the  aggressive — Severe  defeat  of  Rivera  and  his  allies  of  the 
littoral  provinces — Oribe  besieges  Montevideo — The  services  of 
Garibaldi — The  Uruguayan  forces  decimated — Further  incidents  of 
the  war — The  power  of  Rosas  broken  by  Brazil,  Uruguay,  and 
Entre-Rios. 


For  the  purpose  of  a self-contained  romance  with 
a popular  ending,  the  adventures  of  the  leaders  of 
the  thirty -three  should  end  at  the  moment  when  the 
liberation  of  the  Banda  Oriental  became  a dawning 
certainty,  but  history  has  an  unfortunate  knack  of 
continuing  where  fiction  ceases.  The  fiercest  enemy 
of  a hero  is  longevity. 

In  this  case  the  phase  is  especially  lamentable, 
since  although  daring  deeds  of  arms  persisted,  the 

107 


108 


URUGUAY 


feats  were  wrought,  not  in  a joint  cause  against 
a common  enemy,  but  amidst  a turbulent  confusion 
of  sudden  alliances  and  yet  more  rapid  breaches 
between  friends  and  neighbours  that  rendered  im- 
possible speculation  whence  the  tide  of  battle  would 
flow  next. 

The  three  names  that  stood  out  from  the  very 
midst  of  the  chaos  of  events  were  those  of  Lavalleja, 
Rivera,  and  Oribe.  Since  the  three  had  fought 
shoulder  to  shoulder  for  their  country’s  redemption 
this  prominence  was  only  fitting  and  just.  Yet  the 
role  of  each  of  the  three  differed  widely  now  from 
his  previous  methods.  Cohesion  had  departed  with 
the  enemy’s  forces  : not  so  the  tale  of  the  battle- 
fields, that  multiplied  until  they  stained  the  soil  of 
the  country  a deeper  red  than  ever  before. 

The  first  few  months  of  complete  independence 
gave  no  inkling  of  what  was  to  come.  After  one 
or  two  politicians  had  held  interim  offices,  General 
Rondeau,  who  had  rendered  great  services  to 
Uruguay,  was  made  Governor.  A disagreement, 
however,  arose  between  him  and  the  constitutional 
assembly.  As  a result  he  resigned  his  post,  and 
departed  to  Buenos  Aires,  shaking  the  dust  of  the 
Banda  Oriental  from  his  feet. 

Lavalleja  was  now  invested  with  the  chief  office 
of  the  land.  Alas  for  the  difference  between  the 
striver  after  liberty  and  the  sitter  in  the  goddess’s 
chair  ! Viewed  from  the  lofty  pedestal,  freedom 
became  distant  far  below  and  lost  to  sight.  In 
short,  Lavalleja  became  a dictator  of  the  most  * 
arbitrary  type  from  the  very  beginning  of  his 
authority.  He  muzzled  the  Press,  such  as  it  was, 
disbanded  various  battalions  suspected  of  loyalty  to 
his  private  interests,  and  then  turned  upon  Rivera, 
his  old  comrade-in-arms.  Not  satisfied  with  de- 
priving the  latter  of  his  office  of  Commandant- 


HISTORY 


109 


General,  Lavalleja  raised  an  army,  and,  intent  upon 
destruction,  marched  against  the  man  whom  he  feared 
as  his  most  dangerous  rival. 

The  despotic  Governor  was  not  mistaken  in  his 
estimate  of  Rivera’s  power.  Indeed,  the  result  of 
a battle  would  have  been  extremely  doubtful,  had 
the  two  forces  come  into  conflict.  But  the  strenuous 
efforts  of  several  peaceful  commissions  ended  in  a 
reconciliation  between  the  leaders — a mere  loose 
patching  up  of  differences,  it  is  true,  but  one  that 
served  for  the  time  being.  In  the  meanwhile  the 
Constitution  of  independent  Uruguay  was  established 
and  sworn  to,  the  event  being  greeted  by  the  populace 
with  wild  enthusiasm. 

The  new  State  was,  of  course,  endowed  with  a 
President,  whose  chair  remained  to  be  occupied.  As 
was  inevitable,  the  two  candidates  for  the  high  post 
were  Generals  Lavalleja  and  Rivera.  Both  were, 
perhaps,  almost  equally  secure  in  the  admiration  of 
the  nation.  Nevertheless,  the  distinctions  between 
the  temperaments  of  the  two  were  marked.  Rivera; 
was  a democrat,  a friend  of  the  populace,  whom 
he  captivated  by  his  intimacy  and  easy  manner. 
Lavalleja’s  tendencies  were,  by  comparison,  aristo- 
cratic ; yet  it  is  doubtful  whether  he  lost  much  in 
influence  from  his  loftier  pose. 

The  first  legislative  act  of  the  National  Assembly 
came  as  a bitter  blow  to  Lavalleja.  In  October 
of  1830  that  body  elected  as  President  General 
Rivera.  As  a nation  Uruguay  had  now  blossomed 
out  into  a full-blown  Constitution.  But  the  youth- 
ful constitutional  flower  was  destined  to  suffer  an 
almost  continuous  winter  of  frosts.  It  was  beyond 
the  limits  of  Lavalleja’s  forbearance  to  sit  quietly 
by  and  to  see  his  rival  comfortably  installed  in  the 
coveted  chair  of  state.  It  was  not  long  ere  the 
machinery  of  plots  was  set  in  motion.  The  first 


110 


URUGUAY 


attempt  proved  all  but  successful.  Rivera,  accom- 
panied only  by  a few  men,  chanced  to  be  in  the 
small  town  of  Durazno,  suspecting  nothing,  when  a 
force  of  five  hundred  of  his  enemies  descended  sud- 
denly upon  the  place.  Their  object  was  the  capture 
of  the  President,  who  only  escaped  by  leaping  through 
a window  and  by  swimming  across  the  River  Yi. 
A rising  of  the  Charrua  Indians  was  the  next  material 
fruit  of  the  campaign  of  intrigue  ; but  the  rebellion 
served  no  other  end  than  the  practical  extirpation 
of  the  remnant  of  the  aboriginal  race  that  had 
survived  until  then. 

Very  shortly  after  this  a revolutionary  movement 
was  instigated  in  Montevideo  itself.  Headed  by 
Colonel  Garzon,  who  held  in  his  pocket  a com- 
mander-in-chief’s  commission  from  Lavalleja,  the 
rising  was  temporarily  successful.  The  National 
Assembly,  intimidated,  had  already  confirmed  the 
appointment  of  Lavalleja  as  President,  when  Perez, 
the  Vice-President,  resisted,  and  the  rest,  encouraged 
by  his  example,  made  a firm  stand.  As  a result, 
Lavalleja  himself  made  his  appearance  in  Montevideo, 
and,  with  his  followers,  occupied  the  municipal 
buildings.  After  an  exchange  of  shots,  however,  he 
and  his  band  were  forced  to  retire. 

During  the  course  of  these  events  Rivera  had  been 
absent  from  the  town.  On  receiving  the  news  he 
hastened  back  from  the  country,  and,  placing  him- 
self at  the  head  of  an  army,  set  out  in  strenuous 
pursuit  of  Lavalleja.  The  latter  was  overtaken  at 
Tupambay.  A battle  ended  in  the  shattering  of  his 
company,  and,  closely  pursued  by  the  President, 
Lavalleja  fled  across  the  northern  border  and  sought 
shelter  in  Brazil. 

In  the  meanwhile  the  famous  Rosas  had  come  to 
power  in  Argentina,  and  the  policy  of  this  dictator 
was  destined  to  awaken  very  material  echoes  in 


HISTORY 


111 


Uruguay.  Lending  support  to  Lavalleja,  he  sent 
a force  of  three  hundred  men  across  the  river.  In 
order  to  create  a diversion,  these  captured  the  town 
of  Melo  from  the  Government  party.  Their  triumph 
was  fleeting.  Beaten  shortly  afterwards  by  Rivera 
in  person,  the  invading  force  fled  to  Brazil. 

But  the  end  of  the  tide  of  invasion  had  not  yet 
come.  At  the  beginning  of  1834  Lavalleja,  aided 
by  further  contingents  furnished  by  Rosas,  descended 
once  more  from  the  north  into  his  native  country. 
On  this  occasion  the  events  of  his  former  attempt 
were  repeated  with  equally  disastrous  results  to  him- 
self. Beaten  once  again,  he  sought  Brazil,  the 
sheltering  spot  of  all  the  atoms  of  Uruguayan 
turbulence. 

A little  after  this  the  four  years  of  Rivera’s  term 
of  office  expired.  It  was  now  the  turn  of  another 
of  the  thirty-three,  General  Manuel  Oribe,  to  enter 
the  arena.  Oribe  was  a warrior  as  well  seasoned 
as  the  others.  He  had  fought  strenuously  under 
Artigas’s  standard  ; but  at  the  coming  of  the  crisis, 
declaring  that  he  could  no  longer  serve  under  such 
a tyrant,  he  joined  the  Buenos  Aires  cause.  Later, 
he  had  formed  one  of  the  most  prominent  members 
of  the  thirty-three.  Becoming  embroiled  in  the 
disputes  of  the  period,  he  had  found  himself  in 
oppositon  to  Rivera,  although  he  had  to  thank  the 
President  for  promotion  in  rank. 

In  March  of  1835  General  Manuel  Oribe  was 
created  the  second  constitutional  President  of  the 
Republic.  One  of  his  first  cares  was  to  undermine 
the  weighty  influence  of  Rivera,  in  whose  power  he 
saw  a menace  to  his  own  office.  The  new  President 
began  the  campaign  by  summoning  back  to  their 
country  all  those  Lavallejistas  who  had  been  living 
in  forced  exile  in  Brazil  and  Argentina.  Then,  in 
order  to  deliver  a death-blow  to  a rival’s  prestige, 


112 


URUGUAY 


he  deprived  the  late  President  of  his  rank  of 
commandant -general. 

Exasperated  beyond  endurance  at  this  latter  move, 
Rivera  immediately  made  his  appeal  to  the  only 
authority  that  was  understood  at  the  period — that 
of  arms.  The  insurrection  attained  almost  imme- 
diately to  formidable  proportions.  Indeed,  there  is 
no  doubt  that  the  malcontent  cause  would  have  been 
successful  almost  immediately  had  not  Rosas  inter- 
vened. As  it  was,  the  Dictator  sent  over  from 
Argentina  to  the  assistance  of  the  Government  five 
hundred  troops,  under  the  command  of  Lavalleja, 
who  had  thrown  in  his  lot  with  Oribe  against  his 
arch-rival. 

As  a preliminary  to  the  actual  hostilities  Oribe 
sent  forth  a thunderous  proclamation,  in  which 
Rivera  was  branded  as  a traitor  to  his  country. 
The  first  battle  ended  in  favour  of  the  Government, 
the  forces  of  the  rebellion  leaving  over  two 
hundred  dead  upon  the  field.  The  chief  historical 
importance  of  the  contest,  however,  lies  in  the  fact 
that  on  this  occasion  were  used  for  the  first  time 
the  red  and  the  white  colours  that  distinguished  the 
respective  forces  of  Rivera  and  Oribe  and  that  have 
ever  since  remained  the  emblems  of  bitter  strife. 

The  fortune  of  war  varied  for  a while.  After 
numerous  indecisive  skirmishes,  Rivera  won  an 
action  at  Yucutuja,  while  a month  later  Oribe  was 
successful  in  a battle  on  the  banks  of  the  River 
Yi.  Then  followed  the  decisive  battle  of  Palmar, 
from  which  the  Government  forces  emerged  no 
longer  as  an  army,  but  merely  as  a scattering  of 
fugitive  stragglers. 

In  the  meanwhile  foreign  influence,  in  addition  to 
the  lot  of  war,  had  veered  in  favour  of  the  revolu- 
tion. The  arbitrary  methods  of  Rosas,  extended  to 
foreigners  resident  within  the  land,  had  caused  him 


HISTORY 


113 


to  become  embroiled  with  France.  Thus  the  northern 
power,  in  addition  to  the  institution  of  a blockade 
of  Buenos  Aires  port,  was  only  too  glad  of  the 
opportunity  of  frustrating  the  plans  of  the  Argentine 
despot  in  Uruguay.  Allying  their  forces  with  those  of 
the  revolutionists,  they  captured  the  island  of  Martin 
Garcia  from  the  Government  troops,  and  were  pre- 
paring further  active  measures  of  aggression  when 
Oribe  realised  the  hopelessness  of  his  plight. 
Adopting  the  sole  course  that  was  left  him,  he 
resigned  his  office  of  President,  and  sailed  for 
Buenos  Aires,  accompanied  by  his  late  ministers,  and 
a considerable  following  of  private  friends. 

Rivera’s  road  to  the  return  of  power  was  now 
clear.  In  November  of  1838  he  made  a triumphal 
entry  into  Montevideo,  and  in  due  course  the  National 
Assembly  elected  him  President  for  the  second  time. 
One  of  the  first  acts  of  the  new  chief  of  the  State 
was  the  avenging  of  Rosas’  late  interference  in  favour 
of  his  rival.  Allying  himself  with  the  French  Govern- 
ment and  the  Province  of  Corrientes,  he  declared 
war— not  against  the  worthy  Argentine  nation,  as 
was  carefully  explained  in  the  proclamation,  but 
against  the  “ tyrant  of  the  immortal  people  of  South 
America.” 

Rosas  was  never  slow  in  responding  to  a’  challenge 
of  the  kind.  Scarcely  had  the  declaration  of 
hostilities  been  made  when  he  sent  an  army  of  six 
thousand  men  to  invade  Uruguay.  Rivera,  his  forces 
strengthened  by  a thousand  French  volunteers, 
marched  to  meet  the  enemy,  and  at  Cagancha  he 
obtained  a signal  victory,  the  Argentine  troops  being 
defeated  with  heavy  loss,  and  thus  forced  to  abandon 
their  campaign  in  Uruguay. 

It  seemed  as  though  the  event  had  put  the  seal 
upon  Uruguay’s  success.  But  the  fortunes  of  the 
period  were  as  erratic  as  the  period  was  turbulent. 

8 


114 


URUGUAY 


Very  shortly  after  the  Battle  of  Cagancha  the  differ- 
ences between  Rosas  and  the  French  were  settled, 
with  the  result  that  an  armistice  was  effected.  .With 
the  raising  of  the  blockade  of  Buenos  Aires  and 
the  departure  of  the  French  troops  from  the  country, 
it  was  the  turn  of  Rosas  to  laugh,  for  his  enemy 
now  stood  before  him  single-handed. 

On  this  occasion  the  first  aggressive  steps  were 
taken  by  the  naval  forces.  In  1841  the  Argentine 
fleet,  under  Admiral  Brown,  made  a practical  end 
to  Uruguayan  sea;  power.  Some  minor  vessels  that 
were  subsequently  collected  were  given  in  charge 
of  the  Italian  Garibaldi,  and  the  famous  guerilla 
leader  carried  on  with  them  a war  of  privateer- 
ing, without,  however,  meeting  with  any  material 
success. 

In  a desperate  attempt  to  stem  the  formidable 
tide  of  Rosas’s  power,  the  three  provinces  of 
Corrientes,  Entre  Rios,  and  Santa  Fe  allied  them- 
selves with  Uruguay.  From  the  joint  States  Rivera 
raised  an  army  of  seven  thousand  men.  But  even 
this  heroic  effort  did  not  suffice.  Boldly  marching 
through  Entre  Rios  towards  Buenos  Aires,  Rivera 
found  himself  brought  to  an  abrupt  halt  by  the  un- 
expected appearance  before  him  of  his  old  enemy, 
Oribe,  at  the  head  of  an  imposing  army  of  fourteen 
thousand  men.  The  ensuing  battle,  fiercely  fought, 
ended  in  an  overwhelming  victory  for  the  superior 
forces,  nearly  a thousand  of  Rivera’s  men  being 
massacred  in  cold  blood  on  the  conclusion  of  the 
fight. 

The  beaten  President  retired  from  Entre  Rios  with 
the  remnants  of  his  army,  while  Oribe  likewise 
crossed  the  Uruguay  River,  and  marched  leisurely 
southwards  from  Salto  towards  Montevideo.  In  due 
time  his  armies  arrived  before  the  capital,  which 
they  forthwith  proceeded  to  invest,  thus  commencing 


HISTORY 


115 


the  great  siege  of  the  place  that  endured  for  nine 
years. 

The  circumstances  of  the  beleaguering  are  too 
numerous  and  complicated  to  bear  recapitulation 
here.  One  of  the  most  notable  features  of  the 
earlier  days  was  3i  proclamation  issued  by  Oribe 
to  the  effect  that  he  would  spare  no  foreigners  whose 
sympathies  lay  with  the  “ rebels,”  as  he  termed  the 
Government  of  Rivera — or  rather  of  Joaquin  Suarez, 
who  had  taken  the  defeated  President’s  post  in 
Montevideo.  The  result  of  the  proclamation  was 
exactly  the  reverse  of  that  anticipated  by  Oribe,  since 
the  foreigners  responded  by  raising  legions  of  their 
own  and  by  flocking  to  the  active  defence  of  the 
town.  The  capital,  however,  was  closely  invested 
by  sea  as  well  as  by  land,  Garibaldi’s  flotilla  finding 
itself  unable  to  make  any  headway  against  Admiral 
Brown’s  blockading  fleet. 

In  the  meanwhile  Riverja  had  not  been  idle.  With 
the  amazing  recuperative  power  that  was  charac- 
teristic of  so  many  of  the  noted  leaders  of  the  period 
he  had  scraped  together  from  the  countryside  a force 
of  nearly  four  thousand  men.  With  these  he  harassed 
the  rear  of  the  besieging  force  to  such  effect  that 
the  Buenos  Aires  Government,  in  order  to  leave  the 
blockade  undisturbed,  raised  a fresh  army,  and  sent 
it,  under  the  command  of  General  Urquiza,  to  cope 
with  the  unexpected  source  of  danger. 

Urquiza  came  up  with  Rivera’  at  India  Muerta, 
and  the  result  was  fatal  to  the  Uruguayan  force. 
The  end  of  a desperate  conflict  saw  nearly  a thousand 
of  Rivera’s  men  lying  dead  upon  the  Campo.  In 
accordance  with  the  drastically  conclusive  methods 
of  the  age,  the  number  of  prisoners  was  small  by 
comparison.  As  to  the  surviving  remnant,  it  was 
scattered  to  the  four  winds  on  the  face  of  the 
downlands. 


116 


URUGUAY 


The  terrible  defeat  of  India  MuertaC  deprived 
Rivera  of  his  military  prestige  and  Uruguay  of  her 
last  hope  of  aggressive  warfare.  Cooped  up  in 
Montevideo,  the  Government  appealed  in  despair  for 
foreign  intervention.  England  and  France,  viewing 
the  policy  of  Rosas  with  dislike,  complied  with  the 
request.  But  in  the  end  their  interference  proved 
futile,  although  the  combined  European  forces  went 
the  length  of  blockading  the  Argentine  ports,  and 
of  defeating  Rosas’s  troops  on  the  banks  of  the 
Parana. 

Rivera  in  the  meanwhile  had  fallen  upon  evil  days. 
FI is  last  defeat  had  involved  him  in  straits  that  went 
beyond  even  the  loss  of  men  and  power.  The  fatal 
day  won  for  him,  unjustly  enough  as  it  proved,  the 
active  suspicion  of  his  own  people.  Doubtful  of 
his  loyalty,  the  Montevideo  Government  applied  to 
Brazil  for  his  banishment  to  Rio  de  Janeiro.  The 
petition  was  acceded  to  ; but  the  Uruguayan  leader 
seemed  a veritable  human  phoenix  in  his  ability  to 
spring  undismayed  from  the  ashes  of  each  succes- 
sive disaster.  With  the  ultimate  object  of  taking 
an  active  part  once  again  in  his  country’s  defence, 
he  succeeded  in  getting  himself  appointed  by 
Montevideo  as  Minister  Plenipotentiary  to  Paraguay. 

Rivera,  however,  had  no  intention  of  proceeding 
to  take  up  his  office.  Once  free  of  Brazil,  he  sailed 
boldly  down  the  river  to  Montevideo,  and  raised  the 
popular  opinion  of  the  capital  so  much  in  his  favour 
that,  after  a short  period  of  disturbance  in  the 
beleaguered  city,  he  was  once  again  endowed  with 
trust  and  command.  He  took  himself  forthwith  to 
the  Campo,  where  he  resumed  his  warlike  operations 
with  varied  success. 

Nevertheless,  it  was  many  years  ere  this  particular 
period  of  Uruguay’s  strenuous  vicissitudes  came  to 
an  end.  The  year  1851  marked  one  of  the  numerous 


HISTORY 


117 


dawns  in  the  fortunes  of  the  land.  Then  an  alliance 
was  concluded  between  Uruguay  and  Brazil,  while 
the  famous  General  Urquiza,  revolting  against  the 
Buenos  Aires  tyrant,  brought  the  forces  of  Bntre 
Rios  to  join  the  league  that  was  now  formed  against 
Rosas.  The  result  was  the  Battle  of  Monte  Caseros, 
in  which  the  combined  forces  made  an  end  to  the 
dictator’s  power,  and  caused  him  to  flee  to  Europe. 

The  soil  of  Uruguay  was  once  again  free  from 
hostile  troops.  During  the  fleeting'  period  of  peace 
that  followed,  it  is  necessary  to  take  leave  of  two 
of  the  three  Orientales  who  had  ridden  to  such 
purpose  on  the  breath  of  the  whirlwind.  A little 
more  than  two  years  after  the  Battle  of  Monte 
Caseras,  Lavalleja  died  at  Montevideo.  In  harness 
to  the  end,  the  liberator  of  his  country  ended  his 
career  just  as  he  had  once  again  been  elected  to 
take  a share  in  its  government.  Three  short  months 
later  Rivera  followed  his  old  comrade  and  enemy 
to  the  land  where  the  cavalry  lance  is  unknown  and 
where  no  gunshot  crashes  echo. 


CHAPTER  IX 


H I S T O R Y — continued 

Condition  of  Uruguay  at  the  conclusion  of  the  war  against  Rosas— 
Measures  for  the  relief  of  poverty — Juan  Francesco  Giro  elected 
President — The  arising  of  antagonistic  elements — Giro  resigns  in 
favour  of  Bernardo  Berro — A revolution  ends  in  the  formation  of  a 
triumvirate — On  the  death  of  Lavalleja  and  Rivera,  Flores  becomes 
Dictator — Rebellion  against  his  rule — Brazil  sends  an  army  to  the 
assistance  of  General  Flores — Further  revolutionary  movements — 
Manuel  Basilio  Bustamente  succeeds  Flores — The  policy  of  General 
Cesar  Diaz — His  exile  and  return  at  the  head  of  an  army — Defeat  and 
death  of  Diaz — Two  interim  Presidents — Continuous  civil  war — 
General  Flores  enters  the  Republic  in  command  of  a strong  force 
and  is  declared  Dictator — The  Paraguayan  war — Causes  of  its  out- 
break— The  policy  and  military  strength  of  Paraguay — Strategic  errors 
— Uruguay’s  share  in  the  campaign — Flores  returns  to  Montevideo 
from  the  seat  of  war — His  assassination — General  Lorenzo  Batlle 
elected  President — -The  continuance  of  political  unrest — Various 
presidents  and  dictators — The  Government  of  the  present  day — Don 
Jose  Batlle  y Ordonez — Doctor  Claudio  Williman — The  Uruguayan 
battle-fields  in  tabular  form — Progress  of  the  land. 

With  the  Battle  of  Monte  Caseros  and  the  fall  of 
Rosas  the  range  of  episode  enters  comparatively 
modern  times.  Although  the  war  had  ended  success- 
fully for  the  Uruguayan  cause,  its  conclusion  left 
the  country  in  an  utterly  impoverished  and  desolate 
condition.  Through  the  terrible  stress  of  events  in 
a land  of  such  infinite  natural  resources  the  population 
was  roofless,  and  in  many  districts  actually  at  the 
point  of  starvation — an  unheard  of  situation  for  such 
a country.  As  for  the  treasury,  it  w&s  virtually  empty, 

and  the  harassed  Government  found  itself  under  the 

118 


HISTORY 


119 


necessity  of  seeking  for  loans  from  without  its 
frontiers  on  any  terms  that  it  could  obtain. 

On  the  i st  of  March,  1852,  Don  Juan  Francisco 
Giro  was  elected  as  the  fourth  constitutional  Presi- 
dent of  Uruguay.  The  newly  elected  chief  of  the 
State  made  desperate  efforts  towards  ameliorating 
the  financial  condition  of  the  country,  but  political 
complications  were  destined  to  work  against  success 
from  the  very  start.  A fortnight  after  he  had 
assumed  power  the  Uruguayan  army  that  had  borne 
a brilliant  share  in  the  victory  of  Monte  Caseros 
returned  home  from  Buenos  Aires.  Its  commander, 
General  Cesar  Diaz,  was  acclaimed  as  a popular  hero, 
and  was  promptly  created  Minister  for  War  and 
Marine,  although  his  sympathies  were  directly 
opposed  to  the  Government. 

It  was  not  long  ere  the  antagonistic  elements  that 
now  surrounded  him  led  to  the  resignation  of  Giro, 
who  in  October  delegated  his  authority  to  Don 
Bernardo  Berro.  The  latter,  however,  was  able  no 
more  than  his  predecessor  to  restrain  the  tide  of 
partizanship,  and  in  July  of  1853  an  open  revolution 
broke  out,  headed  by  General  Diaz  and  Colonel 
Palleja.  The  outbreak  occurred  during  a review 
in  the  centre  of  Montevideo,  and,  dramatically  con- 
ceived, proved  definitely  successful  within  the  course 
of  a few  minutes.  In  the  first  instance  Berro  was 
forced  merely  to  appoint  a fresh  set  of  ministers, 
whose  views  were  hostile  to  his  own ; but  very  shortly 
afterwards  the  President  was  obliged  to  vacate  his 
post  in  haste,  and  to  take  refuge  in  the  French 
legation. 

At  the  end  of  September,  1853,  a triumvirate 
was  formed  of  Generals  Lavalleja,  Rivera,  and 
Colonel  Flores.  The  deaths  of  both  the  former 
occurred  ere  the  new  regime  could  be  adopted  in 
practice,  and  thus  the  survivor,  Colonel  Venancio 


120 


URUGUAY 


Flores,  was  elected  to  complete  the  term  of  the  presi- 
dency that  Giro  had  vacated.  He  had  scarcely  taken 
charge  of  the  reins  of  government,  however,  when 
his  authority  was  rebelled  against,  this  time  by  the 
party  who  had  lately  been  in  power.  Leaving 
General  Cesar  Diaz  in  charge  of  the  Government, 
Flores  himself  headed  a successful  campaign  against 
the  revolutionists,  at  the  end  of  which  his  military 
rank  was  raised  to  that  of  General. 

The  unrest  did  not  long  remain  quelled.  Indeed, 
so  threatening  did  the  situation  become  that  Flores 
appealed  to  the  Brazilians  for  aid.  In  response  the 
northern  republic  sent  an  army  of  four  thousand  men, 
who  occupied  the  principal  cities  of  Uruguay.  The 
result,  as  may  be  imagined,  was  a yet  more  marked 
seething  of  discontent.  In  1855,  despite  the  presence 
of  the  foreign  troops,  the  Colorado,  or  red  party, 
now  definitely  formed,  revolted,  and  by  force  of  arms 
obtained  possession  of  the  capital  for  a while. 

The  success  of  the  revolutionists  was  short-lived. 
General  Oribe  and  many  other  members  of  the  Blanco, 
or  white,  group,  came  to  the  assistance  of  Flores.  In 
the  end  a compromise  was  effected.  The  revolu- 
tionists retired;  Flores  resigned  his  post,  and  Don 
Manuel  Basilio  Bustamente  was  elected  as  temporary 
President.  At  this  stage  of  Uruguayan  history,  how- 
ever, space  does  not  permit  a detailed  description 
of  the  various  revolutions  that  followed  the  one  upon 
the  heels  of  the  other,  and  that  were  separated  by 
intervals  of  merely  a few  weeks  or  months. 

An  event  of  striking  importance,  however,  occurred 
in  1858,  during  the  presidentship  of  Don  Gabriel 
A.  Pereira.  The  latter  had  been  opposed  by  General 
Cesar  Diaz,  who  had  stood  as  an  unsuccessful  candi- 
date for  the  office,  and  the  inevitable  jealousies  soon 
became  embittered  once  more  to  the  point  of  active 
explosion.  The  policy  of  Diaz  was  now  to  incorporate 


HISTORY 


121 


the  Banda  Oriental  with  the  Argentine  Provinces, 
and  thus  to  form  a single  country  that  should  be 
known  as  the  United  States  of  La  Plata. 

On  the  discovery  of  his  plan  Diaz  was  exiled  to 
Buenos  Aires,  and  with  him  many  of  the  more 
prominent  members  of  the  Colorado  party.  Diaz, 
however,  soon  made  his  way  back  across  the  river, 
and,  collecting  an  army  of  eight  hundred  men, 
marched  upon  Montevideo,  his  forces  swelling  in 
numbers  as  he  went.  Unsuccessful  in  its  attempt 
upon  the  capital,  the  revolutionist  army  retired,  and, 
after  an  indecisive  battle  or  two,  met  with  total  defeat 
at  Cagancha.  Diaz  was  taken  prisoner  in  this  action, 
and  was  shot  in  company  with  fifty  of  his  followers. 

The  remainder  of  Pereira’s  term  of  office  passed  in 
comparative  tranquillity.  He  was  succeeded  in  i860 
by  another  representative  of  his  own  party,  Don 
Bernardo  Berro,  who  was  elected  in  constitutional 
fashion.  Three  years  later,  however,  General  Flores 
entered  the  arena  of  politics  once  more.  The  pretext 
under  which  hostilities  broke  out  was  slight  enough 
in  itself.  A refusal  on  the  part  of  the  Government  to 
permit  the  celebration  of  the  anniversary  of  the  Battle 
of  Quinteros  had  enraged  the  Colorados,  and  Flores, 
espousing  their  cause,  led  an  army  into  the  field.  A 
lengthy  series  of  battles  ensued,  in  the  majority  of 
which  Flores  was  successful.  While  the  war  was 
still  raging,  Berro,  having  completed  his  term,  was 
succeeded  as  President  by  Don  Atanasio  Aguirre. 
Flores,  however,  having  now  obtained  the  active 
support  of  Brazil,  was  carrying  all  before  him,  and 
in  February  of  1865  he  entered  Montevideo  in 
triumph,  and  was  proclaimed  provisional  Governor 
and  then  Dictator  of  the  Republic. 

In  recapitulating  the  history  of  Uruguay  at  this 
period  the  incessancy  of  the  stream  of  warlike  events 
is  amazing.  Scarcely  had  Flores  seated  himself  upon 


122 


URUGUAY 


what  was  virtually  the  throne  of  his  dictatorship  when 
an  event  of  international  importance,  the  Paraguayan 
war,  occurred  that  was  destined  to  convulse  three 
republics  and  an  empire. 

The  pretext  on  which  war  was  declared  was  the 
armed  intervention  of  Brazil  in  the  affairs  of  the 
Banda  Oriental,  and  the  support  lent  to  Flores  by 
the  Brazilian  army — an  interference  that  Francisco 
Solano  Lopez,  the  tyrannical  Dictator  of  Paraguay, 
took  upon  himself  to  resent  hotly.  Yet,  even  had  not 
this  particular  bone  of  contention  come  into  being, 
the  war  was  undoubtedly  inevitable.  Paraguay’s  dis- 
trust of  Brazil,  and  the  latter’s  dread  of  the  really 
formidable  military  forces  that  the  inland  republic 
had  gathered  together,  had  piled  up  a situation  that 
only  the  faintest  flame  Was  required  to  set  ablaze. 

The  military  strength  of  Paraguay  at  this  period 
was  considerable.  With  an  army  of  eighty  thousand 
men  of  wild  courage,  backed  by  an  adequate  number 
of  cannon,  she  might  well  have  bidden  defiance  to  any 
other  single  republic  of  South  America.  But  her 
strength  was  exceeded  by  her  confidence.  Desirous 
of  sweeping  all  before  him,  Lopez  divided  his  forces, 
and  dispatched  an  army  to  the  north  in  order  to 
invade  Brazil,  while  another  corps  was  told  off  to 
strike  in  a south-easterly  direction.  In  order  to  effect 
this  latter  move  it  was  necessary  to  obtain  Argentina’s 
consent  to  cross  her  province  of  Corrientes.  This 
permission,  which  would  have  involved  a breach  of 
neutrality,  was,  not  unnaturally,  refused.  Incensed 
at  this  check  to  his  plans,  Lopez  declared  war  upon 
Argentina,  and  occupied  the  province  of  Argentina  by 
force  of  arms.  In  the  meanwhile  Flores,  in  return 
for  the  support  he  had  received  from  Brazil,  threw 
in  the  lot  of  the  Banda  Oriental  with  that  of  the 
northern  empire. 

Thus  Paraguay  found  herself  face  to  face  with 


HISTORY 


123 


the  allied  powers  of  Brazil,  Argentina:,  and  Uruguay, 
and  a struggle  ensued  that  cost  the  lives  of  tens  of 
thousands  ere  the  death  of  Lopez  ended  the  long 
and  desperate  fight,  at  the  conclusion  of  which  Para- 
guay stood  all  but  bereft  of  her  adult  manhood. 
Flores  assumed  command  of  the  Uruguayan  forces 
that  took  part  in  the  campaign,  and  the  Oriental 
division  distinguished  itself  on  numerous  occasions 
in  the  course  of  the  arduous  conflict. 

Fifteen  months  after  the  beginning  of  the  war 
Flores  found  it  necessary  to  return  to  Montevideo, 
where,  in  spite  of  the  foreign  campaign,  symptoms 
of  internal  unrest  had  again  become  evident.  Here 
in  1868  he  met  with  the  fate  that  had  passed  him 
by  in  the  course  of  the  Paraguayan  war.  Learning 
that  a coup  d'etat  had  suddenly  come  about,  and 
that  a body  of  men  had  taken  the  Government  House 
by  assault,  Flores  without  delay  started  out  in  his 
carriage  to  gain  the  scene  of  action.  This  move,  as 
a matter  of  fact,  had  been  foreseen  by  the  con- 
spirators, and  a broken-down  wagon  blocked  one 
of  the  streets  through  which  he  had  to  pass.  As 
the  General’s  carriage  came  to  a halt  in  front  of 
the  obstruction,  a group  of  men  rushed  out  from  the 
neighbouring  doorways,  and  a minute  later  the  body 
of  Flores,  mortally  wounded  by  gunshots  and  knives, 
was  left  lying  in  the  roadway. 

This  tragedy,  however,  was  of  little  material  assist- 
ance to  the  Blanco  party.  Indeed,  the  sole  result,  so 
far  as  they  were  concerned,  was  the  execution  of 
one  or  two  of  their  leaders.  The  power  remained 
with  the  party  of  the  dead  Flores,  and  General 
Lorenzo  Batlle  was  elected  President,  ruling  with  no 
little  determination  despite  the  frequent  revolutionary 
movements  that  continued  to  occur.  On  various 
occasions,  it  is  true,  the  situation  of  the  Government 
became  critical  enough,  and  in  1870  the  capital  itself 


124 


URUGUAY 


was  besieged  by  the  insurrectionists ; but  in  the 
end  Batlle  prevailed,  and  the  insurrectionists  were 
repulsed,  at  all  events  for  the  time  being. 

Beyond  these  warlike  episodes  much  of  importance 
occurred  during  the  rule  of  this  President,  which 
lasted  until  1872.  Two  distinct  catastrophes  marked 
the  years  1868  and  1869.  The  former  was  darkened 
by  a terrible  visitation  of  cholera,  while  during  the 
latter  a financial  crisis  arose  that  caused  the  ruin  of 
many  thousands  of  Oriental  families.  Nevertheless, 
the  year  1869  is  to  be  marked  in  white  among  the 
milestones  of  Uruguay’s  progress;  for  it  was  then 
that  the  railway  was  inaugurated,  and  a line  com- 
pleted between  Montevideo  and  Canelones  that 
marked  the  first  falling  into  line  of  the  Republic 
with  the  more  advanced  countries. 

The  next  President,  Doctor  Jose  Ellauri,  failed 
to  complete  his  term  of  office.  In  January  of  1875 
a military  revolution  forced  him  to  take  hasty  refuge 
in  a Brazilian  warship  that  was  lying  in  the  port 
of  Montevideo,  while  Don  Pedro  Varela  was 
acclaimed  by  the  army  as  chief  of  state.  Raised  to 
power  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet,  Varela  found  it 
necessary  to  sustain  his  post  by  the  same  force. 
Although  his  armies  succeeded  in  suppressing  the 
numerous  popular  risings,  the  dissatisfaction  in  the 
end  became  so  general  and  a condition  of  monetary 
crisis  so  pronounced  that  Varela"  was  forced  to  resign. 

Colonel  Latorre  next  assumed  power  as  Dictator. 
His  handling  of  this  dangerously  powerful  office  was 
liberal,  and  after  three  years  of  office  he  was  elected 
in  1879  as  constitutional  President  of  the  Republic. 
Almost  immediately  after  this,  however,  the  political 
situation  became  too  complicated  for  his  patience,  and 
he  vacated  his  post,  declaring,  it  is  said,  that  the 
Uruguayans  were  ungovernable  as  a race.  Doctor 
'Francisco  Vidal,  who  succeeded  him,  was  replaced 


LAGO  DEL  PRADO  : MONTEVIDEO. 


THE  PRADO  : MONTEVIDEO. 


To  face  p.  124. 


/ 


m 


HISTORY 


125 


in  1882  by  General  Santos.  Although  no  marked 
internal  disturbances  occurred  during  the  president- 
ship of  this  latter,  the  Blanco  party  were  making 
strenuous  efforts  just  outside  the  frontiers  of  the 
Republic  to  organise  a revolutionary  campaign  on 
a serious  scale.  In  1886,  when  his  office  was  com- 
pleted, Santos  caused  Vidal  to  be  elected  once  more, 
meaning  to  succeed  him  again,  as  he  had  already 
done  on  a previous  occasion. 

No  sooner  had  Vidal  occupied'  the  presidential 
chair  than  the  threatened  revolution  broke  out. 
General  Santos,  at  the  head  of  the  Government  forces, 
effectually  suppressed  the  rising,  whereupon  Vidal 
resigned  in  his  favour.  A governmental  crisis 
ensued;  the  Ministry  resigned  in  a body,  and  Santos 
was  wounded  in  the  course  of  an  attempt  upon  his 
life.  Efforts  towards  the  keeping  of  the  national 
peace  were  now  made  on  both  sides,  and  by  means 
of  strenuous  endeavour  a mixed  Ministry  was  formed. 
Known  by  the  title  of  “ the  Ministry  of  Conciliation,” 
the  new  Government  was  acclaimed  with  enthusiastic 
rejoicings  throughout  Uruguay.  Shortly  after  its 
formation  Santos  proceeded  to  Europe  in  order  to 
obtain  a complete  recovery  from  his  wound,  and 
General  Tajes  was  elected  President  of  the  Republic. 

During  Tajes’s  term  of  office  and  that  of  his 
successor,  Doctor  Julio  Herrera  y Obes,  matters 
remained  fairly  quiet.  In  1894  Don  Juan  Idiarte 
Borda  became  chief  of  state  by  election,  and  three 
years  later  a revolution  on  the  part  of  the  Blanco 
party  broke  out  afresh.  At  the  end  of  six  months’ 
fighting  Borda  was  assassinated  in  the  streets  of 
Montevideo,  and  the  tragic  event  was  followed  by 
the  patching  up  of  a temporary  peace. 

Don  Juan  Lindolfo  Cuestas,  who  next  assumed 
control  of  the  Government,  was  successful  in  bring- 
ing about  a treaty  with  the  Blanco  party,  and  in 


126 


URUGUAY 


September  of  1897  the  revolutionists  laid  down  their 
arms.  We  now  arrive  at  a period  that  is  practically 
that  of  the  present  day.  In  1903  Don  Jose  Batlle 
y Ordonez  was  elected  President.  For  the  first  year 
of  his  rule  he  had  to  contend  with  further  risings  of 
the  Blanco  party,  in  the  course  of  which  numerous 
battles  were  fought.  In  the  end  the  Government 
forces  were  signally  successful,  and  in  September 
of  1904  peace  was  signed  and  a general  amnesty 
declared. 

In  1907  Doctor  Claudio  Williman  succeeded  Sehor 
Batlle.  The  first  years  of  his  tenure  of  office  passed 
in  tranquillity;  but  at  the  end  of  1910  the  Blancos 
became  active  once  more,  and  various  actions  were 
contested  ere  the  Government  troops  once  more 
obtained  the  mastery  of  the  situation  in  January 
of  1 91 1 . 

Having  thus  brought  this  rough  sketch  of 
Uruguayan  history  to  its  conclusion  at  the  present 
day,  it  must  be  admitted  that  the  trend  revealed 
throughout  is  distinctly  warlike.  Indeed,  the  battles 
that  have  reddened  the  soil  of  the  Banda  Oriental 
since  its  first  colonisation  are  amazingly  numerous. 
I have  compiled  a list  of  some  120,  and  were  minor 
skirmishes  included  a volume  would  be  needed  to 
contain  the  list.  It  is,  indeed,  the  militant  portion  of 
history  that  must  necessarily  stand  out  chiefly  in 
a cursory  survey  such  as  this.  The  progress  of 
industry,  education,  science,  and  art  by  the  side  of 
the  roar  of  strife  is  necessarily  a silent  one.  Its 
course  has  been  none  the  less  forceful  for  all  that  : 
and  universities,  schools,  national  institutions  of  every 
kind,  port-works,  and  the  general  paraphernalia  of 
commerce  testify  to  the  fact  that  Uruguay  has  not 
permitted  her  numerous  internal  struggles  to  divert 
the  nation  from  its  true  forward  march.  In  at  least 
one  sense  the  situation  renders  tribute  to  the  virile 


HISTORY 


127 


qualities  of  the  Uruguayan.  For  there  are  surely  few 
nations  that  can  exhibit  a battle-roll  such  as  this, 
and  yet  at  the  same  time  produce  convincing  evidence 
of  prosperity  and  progress.  With  a proper  manipu- 
lation of  the  great  national  energies,  and  their 
devotion  to  the  pursuits  of  peace  alone — tendencies 
that  are  becoming  each  year  more  marked — the 
prospects  of  the  Banda  Oriental  would  excel  even 
the  present  fair  promise  of  her  future. 


CHAPTER  X 

URUGUAYAN  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS 

The  temperament  of  the  Oriental — Some  merits  of  the  race — The  Spanish 
Main  as  treated  in  fiction — Distinction  between  the  villains  in  print 
and  in  actual  life — Civility  as  a national  trait — Courtesy  of  officials — 
The  Uruguayan  as  a sturdy  democrat — A land  of  equality — Some 
local  mannerisms — Banquets  and  general  hospitality — Some  practical 
methods  of  enjoying  life — Simplicity  versus  ostentation — Some  con- 
sequences of  prosperity — The  cost  of  living — Questions  of  ways  and 
means — European  education  and  its  results — Some  evidences  of 
national  pride — The  physique  of  the  Oriental — Sports  and  games — 
Football — The  science  of  bull-fighting — Eloquence  and  the  oratorical 
art — Uruguayan  ladies — Local  charm  of  the  sex — South  American 
institutions — Methods  by  which  they  have  been  improved — The 
advantages  of  experiments — The  Uruguayan  army  and  navy — Some 
characteristics  of  the  police — Honesty  of  the  nation — Politics  and 
temperament. 


Life  in  Uruguay  is  perhaps  best  described  by  the 
German  word  gemiithlich,  an  untranslatable  adjective 
that  savours  in  its  birthplace  just  a little  of  light 
beer,  easy-chairs,  cigar  smoke,  steaming  coffee,  and 
an  atmosphere  of  camaraderie.  After  which  it  is 
necessary  to  come  to  an  abrupt  halt  in  this  task  of 
translation,  since  the  danger  of  dragging  in  a foreign 
word  becomes  evident  when  it  is  necessary  to  introduce 
another  in  order  to  explain  it.  In  any  case,  this  good- 
fellowship  of  the  Uruguayan  is  of  a far  lighter  order 
than  the  Teutonic,  and  is  only  remotely  concerned 
with  the  material  matters  of  life.  Like  the  majority 

of  the  races  of  Iberian  descent,  the  Oriental  is  essen- 

128 


MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS  129 


tially  sober  in  his  tastes,  and  frequently  of  an 
ascetic  temperament.  Such  traits  are  inborn  and 
natural,  and  by  no  means  the  result  of  a campaign 
of  schooling  and  self -repression.  He  has  not,  for 

instance,  found  it  necessary  to  undergo  an  outward 
treatment  of  badges  and  blue  ribbons  nor  to  devote 
himself  to  a special  era:  of  self -protection  from  the 
like  of  which  the  chastened  Anglo-Saxon  is  only  just 
emerging. 

For  generations  the  Spanish  Main  has  afforded 
a lucrative  field  to  the  writers  of  pure  sensationalism 
— if  the  word  be  allowed.  Their  choice  has  un- 
doubtedly been  a wise  one,  and  a judicious  compound 
of  fair  creoles,  satanic  dons,  swashbuckling  pirates, 
and  heroes  of  the  tenderest  age  has  proved  an  almost 
inexhaustible  gold-mine  of  really  lurid  fiction.  Yet 
it  cannot  be  said  that  this  fervid  literature  has  led 
to  a complete  understanding  of  the  South  American 
character  by  the  British  youth.  As  to  the  popular 
and  stirring  villainies,  I will  not  attempt  to  deny 
that  in  the  past  deeds  have  been  enacted  that  were 
as  terrible  as  those  which  have  shuddered  in  print 
between  gaudy  paper  covers.  There  were  many 
beyond,  infinitely  worse,  and  altogether  unthinkable. 
But  the  perpetrators  of  these  were  seldom  enough 
of  the  stereotyped  temperament  as  portrayed  by  the 
blood-and-thunder  authors.  Alas  for  the  double- 
dyed  deceit  that  lurked  between  the  terrific  drunken 
orgies  ! The  real  chief  organisers  of  such  colossal 
outrages  as  have  obtained  went  about  their  business 
with  a directness  that  was  worthy  of  a better  cause, 
and  reddened  the  pages  of  history  with  a strictly 
methodical  and  painstaking  industry.  Moreover,  they 
were  as  sober  as  an  infant  of  eight  at  a Band  of 
Hope  festival. 

But  all  this  has  very  little  to  do  with  the  present- 
day  dwellers  in  Uruguay,  and  their  habits  and 

9 


130 


URUGUAY 


customs.  The  atmosphere  of  the  country  is  essen- 
tially one  of  civility.  If  you  would  learn  the  tempera- 
ment of  a nation,  mark  the  behaviour  of  its  humbler 
public  functionaries  ! In  fact,  one  of  the  first  steps 
that  a student  of  national  character  should  take  is 
merely  to  ask  a policeman  the  first  question  that 
enters  the  mind.  In  order  to  apply  the  severest  test 
the  query  should  be  a crassly  foolish  one.  In  France 
may  be  expected  vivacious  expostulation,  in  Germany 
an  explosion  of  imperative  military  sounds,  in  Holland 
a placid  non -comprehension,  in  Portugal  a pathetic 
eagerness  to  satisfy  at  all  costs — I have  tried  all 
these,  and  more  beyond  than  would  stand  inclusion 
here  without  the  risk  of  wearying.  The  Uruguayan 
policeman,  in  his  uniform  of  British  pattern,  is  essen- 
tially courteous,  while  the  manners  of  the  tram 
conductors,  railway  guards,  and  those  other  genii  of 
transit  in  whose  hands  the  fate  of  the  traveller  lies 
are  equally  to  be  commended. 

The  absence  of  sycophancy  that  is  characteristic 
of  nearly  all  South  American  Republics  is  especially 
marked  in  Uruguay.  A sturdy  democracy  is  evident 
here  even  amongst  those  whose  menial  service  is 
of  the  nature  to  evoke  professional  obsequiousness 
in  other  parts  of  the  world.  The  waiter,  for  instance, 
will  serve  with  brisk  attention,  but  at  the  end  of 
the  repast  he  will  as  often  as  not  pocket  the 
customary  tip  as  a matter  of  course  that  is  unworthy 
of  comment,  to  say  nothing  of  thanksgiving.  At 
the  same  time,  it  is  certain  that  he  would  bear  no 
grudge  against  £ well-acquainted  patron  who  had 
omitted  the  ceremony  altogether.  At  a genuine 
Uruguayan  hotel  the  returning  guest  who  has  been 
fortunate  enough  to  win  the  esteem  of  the  hall  porter 
will  find  his  hand  cordially  grasped  in  greeting  by 
that  official.  The  Banda  Oriental  is  a country  of 
discrimination  and  individuality  where  personality 


THE  PRINCIPAL  PLAZA  : MONTEVIDEO. 


THE  HARBOUR  : MONTEVIDEO. 


To  face  p.  130. 


MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS  131 


counts  and  where  popularity  is  a very  material  asset. 
Such  a land  as  this  is  undoubtedly  a home  of 
opportunity. 

The  hospitality  of  the  higher  classes  is  proverbial. 
Indeed,  reputable  conviviality  of  all  kinds  is  at  a 
premium.  In  Montevideo  the  occasions  for  the  giving 
of  banquets  are  numberless.  Thus  if  a man  ha£ 
achieved  something  in  particular  it  is  necessary  that 
a banquet  should  mark  the  event,  if  he  has  expressed 
his  intention  of  achieving  anything  in  particular,  a 
banquet  forms  the  appropriate  prelude  to  the  work, 
and  if  he  has  failed  to  do  anything  in  particular, 
there  is  nothing  like  one  of  these  selfsame  banquets 
to  console  him  for  the  disappointment. 

It  is,  in  fact,  much  to  the  Uruguayan’s  credit  that 
he  contrives  to  extract  a vast  deal  of  enjoyment 
from  life  in  a comparatively  homely  and  unostenta- 
tious manner.  The  race  meetings  here,  for  instance, 
are  most  pleasant  functions,  although  the  horses  are 
not  burdened  with  the  responsibility  of  those 
tremendous  stakes  that  prevail  in  some  other  parts. 
The  theatres,  too,  although  they  obtain  the  services 
of  excellent  companies,  are  moderate  in  their  charges 
— moderate  considering  the  usual  scale  that  prevails 
in  South  America,  that  is  to  say. 

The  advent  of  a prosperity,  however,  that  now 
seems  more  definite  than  ever  before  has  produced 
a similar  effect  upon  household  expenditure  as  in 
the  neighbouring  countries.  The  cost  of  living  has 
risen  by  leaps  and  bounds  during  the  past  two  or 
three  years — a fact  that  salaried  foreigners  resident 
in  the  country  have  found  out  to  their  somewhat 
acute  inconvenience.  In  the  Campo,  naturally 
enough,  this  phenomenon  of  ways  and  means  has 
not  occurred.  iWhen  live  stock  and  acres  are 
numbered  only  by  the  thousand  such  annoying 
matters  as  house -rent  and  the  butcher’s  bill  fail  to 


132 


URUGUAY 


carry  any  significance.  Nevertheless,  in  Montevideo 
the  former  has  practically  doubled  itself  within  the 
last  half-dozen  years,  and  all  similar  items  have, 
followed  suit  as  a matter  of  course.  But  the  rise 
in  the  price  of  land  signifies  prosperity,  and  is  at 
all  events  welcome  enough  to  those  directly  interested 
in  the  soil. 

South  America,  taken  as  a whole,  is  a continent 
whose  inhabitants  are  not  a little  addicted  to  ostenta- 
tion. The  phase  is  natural  enough  in  view  of  the 
conditions  that  obtain  in  so  many  of  the  Republics. 
In  the  case  of  the  pastoral  countries,  even  in  quite 
modern  times  the  broad  lands  had  lain  compara- 
tively valueless  until  the  introduction  of  the  freezing 
process  for  meat  and  the  opening  up  of  the  great 
wheat  and  maize  areas  sent  up  the  price  of  the 
soil  by  leaps  and  bounds.  Yet  even  prior  to  this 
era  a certain  amount  of  prosperity  had  prevailed, 
and  young  South  Americans  had  become  accustomed 
up  to  a certain  point  to  wend  their  way  for  educa- 
tional purposes  to  France  and  to  England,  and  thus 
to  assimilate  European  ideas  with  those  that  prevailed 
at  the  time  in  the  republics  of  the  south. 

The  sudden  advent  of  overflowing  wealth  thus 
found  them  to  a great  extent  prepared  to  introduce 
the  most  high-flown  of  modern  ideas  into  the  life 
of  their  own  country.  No  doubt  the  very  conscious- 
ness of  these  riches  that,  head  for  head,  undoubtedly 
far  surpass  that  of  the  dwellers  in  the  old  continent, 
caused  the  South  Americans  to  fling  aside  the  last 
vestige  of  pastoral  simplicity  and  to  make  the  roots 
of  this  great  wealth  of  theirs  bud  out  into  residential 
palaces  and  entertainments  of  a rather  fabulous 
order.  Since  they  had  shown  clearly  enough  that 
their  material  gains  had  surpassed  those  of  Europe, 
what  more  natural  than  that  they  should  endeavour 
to  prove  with  equal  conclusiveness  their  ability  to 


MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS  133 


outshine  the  continent  of  their  ancestors  in  the 
ornamentation  and  luxuries  that  follow  automatically 
in  the  footsteps  of  fortune  ! Surely  the  trait  is 
nothing  beyond  the  proof  of  a healthy  rivalry. 

The  Uruguayan  is  curiously  free  from  all  evidence 
of  this  ostentation.  The  life  he  leads  is  well  supplied 
with  comforts,  but  its  tendency  is  simple.  Thus, 
although  a very  fair  number  of  well -turned-out 
carriages  and  motor-cars  exist  in  Montevideo,  they 
are  seldom  to  be  seen  parading  to  and  fro  in 
imposing  processions  along  an  avenue  or  street 
specially  adapted  for  the  purpose,  as  is  the  case 
in  many  other  cities.  Rather  less  rigorous  tenets, 
moreover,  obtain  in  the  case  of  the  costume  of  the 
male  city  dwellers,  and  the  whole  atmosphere  of 
the  country,  in  fact,  is  one  of  plain  comfort  that 
has  little  concern  with  outward  display.  Uruguay, 
for  the  present,  at  all  events,  has  retained  its 
democracy.  Whether  it  will  continue  to  do  so  when 
the  national  wealth  has  become  more  consolidated 
is  another  matter. 

The  physique  of  the  Uruguayan  men  is  of  a 
distinctly  high  order.  Well-set -up  and  fresh-com- 
plexioned,  they  represent  a favourable  testimonial 
to  the  climate  of  the  country.  In  all  equestrian 
exercises  they  are,  as  may  be  imagined,  past  masters, 
and  they  have  proved  themselves  apt  pupils  at  sports 
and  games  of  all  kinds.  As  is  general  throughout 
almost  the  length  and  breadth  of  South  America, 
football  is  much  in  vogue  here,  although,  owing 
merely  to  the  scarcity  of  the  population,  the 
ubiquitous  game  is  less  played  in  the  country 
districts  than  is  the  case  in  Argentina. 

The  art  of  bull -fighting  still  obtains  in  Uruguay, 
notably  at  Colonia,  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  where 
a large  new  edifice  has  been  erected  for  the  benefit 
of  this,  I think,  regrettable  sport.  Espadas  from 


134 


URUGUAY 


Spain  frequently  come  out  to  perform  here  ; but 
with  the  exception  of  Colonia,  that  attracts  the 
tourist  class  from  abroad,  the  haunts  of  bull-fighting 
lead  only  a precarious  existence  in  the  Republic. 

The  Oriental  is  undoubtedly  a man  of  deeds  ; 
but  in  his  case  the  tendency  to  action  is  not  effected 
at  the  expense  of  speech.  He  is,  indeed,  a born 
orator,  and  on  the  slightest  provocation  will  burst 
forth  into  a stream  of  eloquence  that  can  be  quite 
indefinitely  continued.  In  any  case,  it  is  pleasant 
enough  to  listen  to  the  resounding  periods  in  which 
the  customary  lofty  sentiments  are  couched,  but  it 
is  as  well  to  bear  in  mind  that  the  oratorical  effort 
may  mean  very  much — or  very  little. 

Uruguay,  more  especially  its  capital,  is  well-found 
in  the  matter  of  femininity.  Indeed,  ever  since  it 
became  a full-blown  city  Montevideo  has  been  cele- 
brated for  its  pretty  women.  This  fortunate  state 
of  affairs  has  now  become  a well-recognised  fact,  in 
which  the  masculine  portion  of  the  community  takes 
an  even  greater  pride  than  does  the  sex  more 
directly  involved.  Should  a patriotic  Montevidean 
be  engaged  in  conversation  with  an  interested 
foreigner,  the  chances  are  that  it  will  not  be  long 
ere  the  confident  question  is  asked  : “ And  our 
senoritas,  what  is  your  opinion  of  them?  ” 

In  such  a case  there  can  be  only  one  opinion — 
or  expression  of  opinion.  Conscience  may  be  salved 
by  the  reflection  that  it  is  as  difficult  to  find  a1  woman 
without  some  stray  claim  to  beauty  as  it  is  to  light 
upon  a dame  of  sixty  without  a grey  hair.  In  both 
cases  the  feature  may  be  hard  to  see.  If  so,  it 
must  be  taken  for  granted.  In  the  case  of  the 
Montevidean  senorita  no  such  feat  of  the  imagina- 
tion is  necessary.  To  the  far-famed  graces  of  her 
sisters  throughout  South  America  she  adds  the 
freshness  of  complexion  and  the  liveliness  of 
temperament  that  are  characteristic  of  the  land. 


MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS  135 


Indeed,  to  conceive  these  lighter  virtues,  added 
to  the  natural  Spanish  stateliness,  is  to  picture  a 
very  bewitching  feminine  consummation.  Much  has 
been  written  concerning  the  sehoritas  of  Uruguay, 
and  yet  not  a line  too  much.  Their  own  kith  and 
kin  have  sung  their  praises  with  all  the  tremendous 
hyperbole  of  which  the  Spanish  tongue  is  capable. 
White  hands,  bright  eyes,  raven  hair,  and  a corre- 
sponding remainder  of  features  that  resemble  all 
pleasant  things  from  a dove  to  the  moon — the 
collection  of  local  prose  and  verse  on  the  subject 
is  justifiably  enormous. 

The  Montevidean  lady  has  now,  of  course,  become 
essentially  modern.  She  rides  in  a motor-car,  plays 
the  piano  instead  of  the  guitar,  and  has  exchanged 
the  old  order  in  general  for  the  new.  Yet  the  same 
vivacity,  courage,  and  good  looks  remain — which  is 
an  excellent  and  beneficial  thing  for  Montevideo  and 
its  inhabitants.  Indeed,  the  beach  of  Pogitos  or 
the  sands  of  Ramirez  shorn  of  their  female  adorn- 
ment would  be  too  terrible  a disaster  to  contemplate 
even  on  the  part  of  the  most  hardened  Oriental. 
And  at  this  point  it  is  advisable  to  forsake  for  the 
present  the  more  intimate  affairs  of  the  people, 
leaving  the  last  word  to  the  ladies,  as,  indeed,  is 
only  fitting — and  frequently  inevitable. 

The  majority  of  South  American  Republics — or 
rather  of  those  in  the  lower  half  of  the  continent — 
are  keenly  alive  to  the  benefits  of  many  of  the 
European  methods  and  institutions.  Although  each 
of  these  countries  possesses  a strong  individuality  of 
its  own,  the  generality  of  these  younger  nations  have 
almost  invariably  shown  themselves  eager  to  graft 
to  their  system  foreign  methods  of  organisation  that 
have  stood  the  test  of  time  and  that  have  not  been 
found  wanting. 

Indeed,  in  matters  of  practical  progress  the  citizen 


136 


URUGUAY 


of  the  more  enlightened  South  American  Republics 
is  blessed  with  an  unusually  open  mind.  This  con- 
dition has  naturally  borne  fruit  in  experiments,  and 
it  is  this  very  tendency  to  receptiveness  that  has 
frequently  laid  these  States  open  to  accusations  of 
irresponsibility.  Often  enough  the  charge  has  proved 
entirely  unjust,  since  it  was  based  on  nothing  beyond 
a too  fervent  outbreak  into  an  experimental  region 
from  which  it  was  hoped  to  extract  remedies  and 
innovations  that  should  tend  to  the  betterment  of 
the  Republic. 

The  direction  of  the  public  services  affords  striking 
instances  of  the  kind.  The  navy,  army,  and  police 
of  the  more  progressive  of  the  republics  are  usually 
modelled  on  European  patterns.  The  navy  is  usually 
conducted  on  the  English  system,  the  army  follows 
German  methods,  and  the  police  copies  as  closely 
as  possible  the  time-honoured  principles  of  what  is 
undoubtedly  the  finest  force  in  the  world,  the  English 
constabulary.  Uruguay  follows  this  procedure  only 
in  part.  The  kit  of  the  troops  here  is  of  the  French, 
rather  than  the  German,  pattern  ; and  although  the 
naval  uniforms  throughout  the  civilised  world  are 
all  more  or  less  alike,  that  of  the  Uruguayan  does 
not  resemble  the  British  as  closely  as  do  some  others, 
notably  that  of  the  Chilian.  The  costume  of  the 
Oriental  police,  however,  helmet  and  all,  is  almost 
exactly  the  counterpart  of  the  British,  although  it 
boasts  the  additional  adornment  of  a sword  and  of 
spats. 

The  work  of  the  Uruguayan  police,  moreover,  is 
to  be  commended  for  a lack  of  officiousness  and 
fussy  methods.  They  are  little  concerned  with 
larceny,  and  with  the  similar  forms  of  petty  dis- 
honesty, for  the  nation,  as  a whole,  is  endowed  with 
a strict  sense  of  the  sacredness  of  property.  The 
trait  is  to  a large  extent  inherent  in  all  the  nations 


MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS  137 


of  the  River  Plate  ; but  in  this  instance  it  may  well 
be  that  it  has  become  even  more  accentuated  by 
the  drastic  methods  of  General  Artigas  at  the 
beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century,  whose  abhor- 
rence of  theft  and  whose  exemplary  castigation  of 
the  crime  may  well  have  left  an  impression  that 
has  endured  for  almost  a century. 

I have  already  referred  to  the  sobriety  of  the 
Uruguayan.  Perhaps  for  the  reason  that  he  is  of 
a more  openly  jovial  temperament  he  is  slightly  more 
addicted  to  looking  upon  his  native  wine  when;  tit 
is  red  than  is  the  Argentine  or  Paraguayan.  But 
the  cases  where  this  occurs  are  isolated  enough. 
Indeed,  in  the  matter  of  sobriety  the  Uruguayan 
can  easily  allow  points  to  almost  every  European 
nation.  The  majority  of  crimes  that  occur  to  the 
east  of  the  River  Plate  are  neither  those  brought 
about  by  dishonesty  nor  drink.  They  are  far  more 
frequently  the  result  of  differences  of  opinion  and 
of  old-standing  feuds  that  are  avenged  by  the  knife 
and  revolver,  for  the  Uruguayan,  though  courteous 
to  a degree,  is  quick  to  resent  offence,  more  especially 
when  the  umbrage  given  is  brought  about  in  the 
course  of  a political  discussion. 


CHAPTER  XI 


ABORIGINAL  TRIBES 

The  population  of  Uruguay  prior  to  the  Spanish  conquest — Principal 
tribes — Paucity  of  information  concerning  the  early  aboriginal  life — 
The  Charruas — Warlike  characteristics  of  the  race — Territory  of  the 
tribe — Stature  and  physique — Features — The  occupations  of  war  and 
hunting — Temperament  mannerisms — A people  on  the  nethermost 
rung  of  the  social  ladder — Absence  of  laws  and  penalties — Medicine- 
men— A crude  remedy — The  simplicity  of  the  marriage  ceremony — 
Morality  at  a low  ebb — The  prevalence  of  social  equality — Method  of 
settling  private  disputes — The  Charruas  as  warriors — Tactics  employed 
in  warfare — Some  grim  signals  of  victory — Treatment  of  the  prisoners 
of  war — Absence  of  a settled  plan  of  campaign — Arms  of  the  Charruas 
— Primitive  Indian  weapons — Household  implements — Burial  rites — 
The  mutilation  of  the  living  out  of  respect  for  the  dead — Some  savage 
ceremonies — Absence  of  religion — A lowly  existence — Desolate 
dwellings — Change  of  customs  effected  by  the  introduction  of  horses 
— Indian  appreciation  of  cattle — Improvement  in  the  weapons  of 
the  tribe — Formidable  cavalry — The  end  of  the  Charruas — 
Other  Uruguayan  tribes — The  Yaros — Bohanes — Chanas— Guenoas — 
Mi  nuanes — Arachanes. 

At  the  time  of  the  Spanish  Conquest  the  territory 
which  now  constitutes  the  Republic  of  Uruguay  was 
peopled  by  about  four  thousand  Indians.  These, 
however,  did  not  form  a single  nation,  but  were 
divided  off  into  a number  of  tribes.  The  most  im- 
portant of  these  were  the  Charruas,  Yaros,  Bohanes, 
Chanas,  and  Guenoas.  Each  of  these  groups 
possessed  its  own  territory,  and  each  was  wont  to 
exist  in  a state  of  continued  hostility  with  its  neigh- 
bours. 


138 


ABORIGINAL  TRIBES 


139 


Nothing  is  known  of  the  history  of  these  folk 
previous  to  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniard,  and  even 
during  the  earlier  periods  of  the  conquest  information 
is  scanty  enough,  since  contact  between  native  and 
European  was  confined  almost  entirely  to  warlike 
occasions,  and  since,  even  when  opportunity  offered, 
the  early  colonists  were  neither  sufficiently  adapted 
nor  especially  educated  for  the  purpose. 

The  Charruas  constituted  the  leading  tribe  of  these 
aboriginal  people.  They  owed  this  ascendancy  to 
their  warlike  spirit,  and  to  their  comparatively  large 
numbers.  It  was  they  who  murdered  Juan  Diaz  de 
Solis,  the  discoverer  of  the  Rio  de  la  Plata,  together 
with  many  of  his  companions,  and  it  was  they,  more- 
over, who  offered  the  most  strenuous  resistance  to 
the  colonising  attempts  of  the  Spaniards. 

The  Charruas,  to  the  number  of  a couple  of  thou- 
sand, inhabited  the  coast  of  the  River  Plate,  and 
carried  on  a semi -nomadic  existence  between 
Maldonado  and  the  mouth  of  the  River  Uruguay, 
occupying  a region  that  extended  inland  for  about 
ninety  miles,  its  inner  frontiers  running  parallel  with 
the  coast -line.  The  stature  of  these  natives  attained 
to  middle  height  ; they  were  robust,  well  built,  and 
usually  free  from  that  tendency  to  obesity  which 
is  the  characteristic  of  the  Guarani  Indians.  As  a 
race  they  were  distinguished  by  rather  large  heads, 
wide  mouths,  and  flat  noses.  Their  skin  was 
unusually  dark,  and  in  colour  approached  the  com- 
plexion of  the  negro  more  nearly  than  that  of  any 
other  South  American  race.  Peculiarly  adapted  to 
resist  hunger  and  fatigue,  they  were  agile  and  swift 
of  foot  as  became  those  who  existed  principally  on 
the  deer  and  ostriches  that  they  hunted.  It  is  said 
that  their  health  was  such!  that  many  attained  to  a 
very  advanced  age. 

The  character  of  these  Indians  was  essentially  war- 


140 


URUGUAY 


like  and  turbulent,  and  they  were  remarkable  for  their, 
passion  for  revenge  and  deceit.  Of  a taciturn  and 
apathetic  temperament,  they  refused  to  submit  to 
discipline  of  any  kind.  They  were,  moreover, 
peculiarly  averse  to  outward  display  of  any  emotion. 
A laugh,  for  instance,  would  be  noiseless,  signalled 
merely  by  a half -opening  of  the  lips  ; conversation 
was  carried  on  in  a low  and  unmodulated  tone  of 
voice,  and  a true  Charrua  would  run  a considerable 
distance  to  gain  a comrade’s  side  rather  than  be 
under  the  necessity  of  shouting  openly  to  him.  The 
sole  occasions  on  which  the  exercise  of  patience 
would  seem  to  have  come  naturally  to  the  race 
were  those  of  hunting  and  of  scouting.  A child  of 
nature,  with  the  faculties  of  hearing  and  sight  marvel- 
lously developed,  the  Charrua  became  reticent  and 
morose  when  brought  into,  contact  with  civilisa- 
tion. 

In  social  ethics  these  dwellers  on  the  coast  ranked 
low  ; indeed,  their  place  was  amongst  the  lowest  in 
the  scale,  of  tribes.  Division  either  of  labour  or  of 
the  spoils  of  war  was  unknown.  Each  hunted  and 
fought  for  his  own  hand  alone,  while  the  wife  con- 
structed a few  rude  utensils  and  performed  the  duties 
of  a slave.  Their  system  knew  neither  laws,  punish- 
ments, nor  rewards,  and  the  only  services  that  were 
wont  to  be  recompensed  in  any  way  were  those  of 
the  medicine-men,  whose  natural  cunning)  was  doubt- 
less as  superior  to  that  of  the  rest  as  is  the  case  else- 
where. Nevertheless,  these  leeches  seem]  to  have 
been  acquainted  with  only  one  remedy.  This  was  to 
suck  with  might  and  main  at  that  portion  of  the 
body  beneath  the  surface  of  which  an  inward  pain 
was  complained  of.  The  marriage  ceremony  was 
confined  to  the  obtaining  of  the  consent  of  the  bride’s 
parents.  The  state  of  wedlock,  however,  was  con- 
sidered of  some  importance  in  the  man,  as  it  con- 


ANCIENT  STONES  EMPLOYED  FOR  NUT-CRUSHING. 


To  face  p.  140. 


ABORIGINAL  TRIBES 


141 


ferred  on  him  the  right  to  go  to  war,  and  to  take 
part  in  the  councils  of  the  tribe. 

Morality,  as  understood  by  the  more  advanced 
sections  of  humanity,  was  at  a low  ebb.  Wedlock 
was  permitted  an  unnaturally  liberal  range  and 
licence.  Not  only  was  polygamy  general,  but 
marriages  between  brothers  and  sisters  were  per- 
mitted, although  it  is  related  that  their  occurrence 
was  rather  rare.  Cases  of  monogamy,  however,  were 
not  unknown,  and,  whenever  the  opportunity  offered, 
a wife  would  desert  a multi-spoused  husband  in  order 
to  take  up  her  abode  with  a man  who  was  willing 
to  accept  her  as  his  only  wife.  Conjugal  faithlessness 
was  held  to  be  an  excusable  failing  ; indeed,  on  the 
arrival  of  the  Spaniards,  the  men  would  frequently 
offer  their  wives  to  the  Europeans  in  return  for  some 
material  advantage. 

Some  evidence  of  that  social  equality  that  is  so 
strongly  a characteristic  of  the  tribes  of  the  River 
Plate  is  to  be  met  with  among  the  Charruas.  Such 
chiefs  as  existed  were  almost  altogether  lacking  in 
real  power  or  authority.  A leader,  as  a matter  of  fact, 
was  elected  by  the  people  merely  in  order  to  act  in 
cases  of  emergency,  and  his  chieftainship,  held  on 
sufferance,  was  liable  to  be  taken  from  him  on  the 
coming'  to  the  front  of  a man  held  more  suitable  for 
the  post.  It  is  a little  curious  to  find  that  in  so  fierce 
a race  private  quarrels  were  not  adjusted  by  means 
of  the  crude  arms  of  war  that  they  possessed.  These 
disputes  were  fought  out  with  the  fists,  and  after  a 
satisfactory  exchange  of  blows  the  matter  was  ended 
for  good  and  all. 

Notwithstanding  this  sensible  method  of  settling 
their  individual  differences,  the  Charruas  were 
merciless  in  the  wars  waged  against  neighbouring 
tribes  or  Spaniards.  On  the  first  outbreak  of 
hostilities  they  were  wont  to  hide  their  women  and 


142 


URUGUAY 


children  in  the  woods,  after  which  spies  were 
immediately  sent  out  to  locate  the  position  of  the 
enemy.  This  determined,  it  was  usual  to  hold  a 
council  of  war  in  the  evening,  and  to  make  a surprise 
attack  at  the  first  glimmerings  of  dawn.  The  method 
of  their  onslaught  was  one  calculated  to  terrify. 
Dashing  out  of  the  semi-obscurity,  they  would  make 
a furious  charge,  uttering  loud  cries,  the  fierceness  of 
which  was  supposed  to  be  accentuated  by  means  of 
the  warriors  striking  themselves  continually  on  the 
mouth. 

Women  and  young  children  captured  in  their 
attacks  were  taken  back  as  prisoners  to  the  rude 
encampments  of  the  conquerors,  where  they  after- 
wards received  complete  liberty,  and  became  incor- 
porated with  the  tribe.  No  quarter,  however,  was 
shown  to  the  men  of  the  beaten  force.  It  is  said 
by  some  of  the  early  European  adventurers  who  came 
into  contact  with  this  fierce  race  that  they  were  not 
only  wont  to  scalp  their  fallen  enemies,  but  that  each 
was  accustomed  to  cut  an  incision  in  his  own  body 
for  every  dead  foeman  whose  body  lay  to  the  credit 
of  his  prowess  or  cunning.  Some  doubt,  nevertheless,  is 
thrown  upon  the  existence  of  these  habits,  although  they 
are  affirmed  by  three  rather  notable  authorities,  Barco, 
Lozano,  and  Azara.  Fortunately  for  the  Spaniards, 
who  discovered  in  the  Charruas  by  far  the  most 
dreaded  enemies  that  it  was  their  lot  to  encounter  in 
this  part  of  South  America,  these  Indians  were  easily 
turned  from  a settled  purpose  or  plan  of  campaign. 
Thus  they  would  lose  many  opportunities  of  pushing 
home  success,  halting  in  an  advance  in  order  to 
celebrate  a first  victory,  and  remaining  on  the  ground 
for  the  purpose  of  marking  the  occasion  at  length. 

The  fact  that  these  rude  savages  should  have 
obtained  victories  over  the  Spaniards  by  means  of 
the  crude  arms  that  were  known  to  them  speaks 


ABORIGINAL  TRIBES 


143 


wonders  for  their  bravery.  Their  choice  of  warlike 
implements  was  no  whit  greater  than  that  enjoyed 
by  the  lake-dwellers  of  the  Stone  Age.  Arrows, 
spears,  clubs,  and  maces — all  these  were  made  up  of 
stone  heads  and  wooden  shafts.  That  which  might 
be  termed  the  characteristic  native  weapon  was  the 
bolus,  the  pair  of  stone  balls  attached  to  ostrich 
sinews  or  to  some  other  contrivance  of  the  kind. 
These — as  remains  the  case  to  the  present  day  in  other 
lands— were  employed  as  slings,  and,  for  the  purpose 
of  entangling  an  enemy,  were  the  most  dreaded! 
implements  of  all. 

For  the  purposes  of  peace  as  well  as  for  those  of 
war  the  sole  materials  available  to  the  Charrua  for 
the  fashioning  of  implements  were  stone,  wood,  bone, 
and  clay.  Thus  the  household  equipment  was  wont 
to  be  confined  to  the  most  primitive  types  of  knives, 
saws,  punches,  hammers,  axes,  mortars,  pestles,  and 
roughly  baked  pottery.  It  is  certain  that  they  used 
canoes,  since  they  used  to  cross  over  to  the  islands 
facing  Maldonado,  but  nothing  is  known  concerning 
the  particular  build  of  these  humble  craft. 

Waged  under  such  circumstances  existence  knew 
little  glamour.  Yet  even  here  certain  ceremonial 
institutions  obtained.  The  women,  for  example, 
on  attaining  to  adult  age  were  accustomed  to 
tattoo  three  stripes  upon  their  faces  as  a signal  of 
the  fact,  while  the  men  wore  a certain  kind  of  head- 
gear  to  bear  a similar  significance.  On  the  death 
of  a male,  the  warrior  was  buried  with  his  arms, 
usually  on  the  summit  of  a small  hill.  Later,  when 
the  luxury  of  domestic  animals  became  known,  the 
rites  grew  more  elaborate,  and  the  dead  man’s  horse 
was  usually  sacrificed  on  the  grave. 

In  any  case  the  occasion  of  a man’s  death  was 
marked  by  self-mutilation  on  the  part  of  his  wives 
and  female  relatives.  These  would  commence  by 


144 


URUGUAY 


cutting  their  fingers,  weeping  bitterly  all  the  while, 
and  afterwards  would  take  the  spear  of  their  deceased 
relative,  and  with  it  would  prick  themselves  in  various 
parts  of  the  body  and  more  especially  in  the  arms, 
which  were  frequently  pierced  through  and  through. 
Azara  was  privileged  to  witness  a number  of  these 
painful  ceremonies,  which  must  have  been  carried  out 
with  conscientious  zeal,  since  he  remarks  that  of  all 
the  adult  women  that  he  saw  none  was  without 
mutilated  fingers  and  numerous  scars  on  the  body. 

These  methods  of  accentuating  sorrow,  however, 
were  light  when  compared  with  the  tortures  that 
adult  sons  were  wont  to  inflict  upon  themselves  on 
the  loss  of  their  father.  It  was  their  duty  first  of  all 
to  hide  themselves,  fasting,  in  their  huts  for  two  days. 
This  effected,  it  was  customary  to  point  a number 
of  sticks  and  to  transfix  the  arms  with  these  from 
the  wrist  to  the  shoulder,  with  an  interval  of  not 
more  than  an  inch  between  each.  In  this  porcupine- 
like condition  they  proceeded  either  to  a wood  or  to 
a hill,  bearing'  in  their  hands  sharpened  stakes.  By 
means  of  these  each  would  dig  out  a hole  in  the  earth 
sufficiently  deep  to  cover  him  to  the  height  of  the 
breast,  and  in  this  custom  demanded  him;  to  remain 
during  a whole  night.  On  the  next  day  the  mourners 
rose  up  from  their  uncomfortable  holes,  and  met  to- 
gether in  a special  hut  that  was  set  apart  for  the 
ceremonial  purposes.  Here  they  pulled  the  sticks 
from  their  arms,  and  remained  for  a fortnight, 
partaking  of  only  the  scantiest  nourishment.  After 
which  they  were  at  liberty  to  rejoin  their  comrades, 
and  to  resume  the  comparatively  even  tenor  of  their 
normal  existence. 

The  Charruas  afford  one  of  the  rare  instances  of  a 
race  who  knew  no  religion.  They  neither  worshipped 
a benevolent  divinity  nor  endeavoured  to  propitiate 
a malignant  spirit.  They  were,  nevertheless,  super- 


ABORIGINAL  TRIBES 


145 


stitious  up  to  a certain  point,  and  dreaded  to  leave 
their  huts  during  the  night.  There  is  no  doubt 
that  some  vague  belief  in  an  after-existence  must 
have  been  implanted  in  their  lowly  minds.  Although 
they  do  not  seem  ever  to  have  referred  openly  to  the 
belief,  the  sole  fact  of  the  burial  of  the  dead  man’s 
arms  in  the  same  grave  as  the  corpse  is  sufficient 
proof  of  their  supposition  that  the  weapons  would 
be  needed  in  some  half -imagined  and  dim  place 
beyond.  But  neither  priest  nor  magician  was  in  their 
midst  to  stimulate  their  wonderings  on  the  point. 

The  highest  degree  of  science  or  intellect,  as  a 
matter  of  fact,  was  represented  by  the  medicine-men 
with  their  simple  and  mistakenly  practical  remedy. 
The  race  had  no  acquaintance  with  either  mlisic, 
games,  dancing,  or  with  ordinary  conversation  as 
understood  amongst  more  civilised  beings.  In  matters 
of  personal  adornment  the  Charruas  were  equally 
unsophisticated.  A few  ostrich  feathers  in  the  hair 
constituted  the  beginning  and  the  end  of  the  men’s 
costume  ; the  sole  garment  of  the  women  was  a 
loin-cloth.  Of  too  dull  a temperament  to  discover 
even  the  simplest  pleasures  that  the  majority  of  races 
contrive  to  extract  from  their  existence,  the  sole 
luxury  in  which  these  folk  indulged  was  the  bathing 
in  the  streams  of  the  country.  But  this  recreation 
was  limited  to  the  midsummer  months  : during  all 
the  other  periods  of  the  year  they  refrained  entirely 
from  ablutions. 

The  point  as  to  whether  these  benighted  Indians 
were  cannibals  has  never  been  definitely  cleared  up. 
The  charge  of  eating  human  flesh  has  been  brought 
against  the  tribe  by  a certain  number  of  authorities. 
It  is  stated,  for  instance,  that  the  body  of  Juan 
Diaz  de  Solis,  the  discoverer  of  the  River  Plate  and 
one  of  the  first  victims  of  these  warriors,  was  con- 
sumed by  the  attacking  party  after  his  murder.  But 

10 


146 


URUGUAY 


the  evidence  is  not  clear  in  either  this  case  or  in  any 
other  of  the  kind,  although  it  is  likely  enough  that 
they  partook  of  the  taste  that  was  shared  by  various 
tribes  who  inhabited  the  country  to  the  north.  Theiti 
ordinary  food,  in  any  case,  was  the  flesh  of  the  deer 
and  ostrich,  as  well  as  fish.  Their  meals  were 
frequently  demolished  in  a raw  condition,  doubtless  of 
necessity,  although  they  understood  the  means  of  pro- 
ducing fire  by  the  friction  of  wood.  Vegetable  food 
was  unknown  to  them,  but  they  contrived  to  produce 
an  intoxicating  liquor  from  the  fermentation  of 
wasps’  honey  mixed  with  water. 

A glance  at  the  more  intimate  domestic  life  of  these 
wild  possessors  of  so  many  strictly  negative  attributes 
may  well  complete  a rather  desolate- picture.  The 
home  of  the  Charrua  was  on  a par  with  the  remainder 
of  his  few  belongings.  A few  branches,  stuck  into  the 
earth  and  bent  towards  a common  centre,  constituted 
the  foundation  ; one  or  two  deer-skins  placed  on  top 
of  these  formed  the  superstructure.  These  dwellings, 
as  a matter  of  fact,  were  no  more  crude  than  those 
of  the  Patagonian  natives,  and  little  more  SO'  than 
the  huts  of  the  Chaco  Indians  to  the  north-west, 
although  the  structures  of  both  these  latter  were — and 
still  remain — thatched  with  grasses  and  vegetation  in 
the  place  of  skins.  In  the  case  of  the  Charrua  the 
inner  accommodation  was  limited  to  a few  square 
feet  ; but  the  confined  space  sufficed  to  hold  an 
ordinary  member,  although  if  the  human  units  in- 
creased unduly,  a second  hut  was  erected  by  the 
side  of  the  first.  For  furniture,  there  were  the  few 
crude  household  implements  already  mentioned,  the 
weapons  of  the  men,  and  the  deer-skin  or  two  spread 
v jn  the  ground  to  serve  as  couches. 

It  was  in  this  manner  that  the  Charruas  were 
accustomed  to  live  when  the  Spaniards,  much  to 
the  rage  of  the  original  inhabitants,  landed  upon 


ABORIGINAL  TRIBES 


147 


their  shores.  From  that  time  onwards  their  method 
of  existence  underwent  a change.  With  the  introduc- 
tion of  horses  they  adopted  the  habit  of  riding, 
and  soon  became  extraordinarily  proficient  in  all 
equestrian  arts,  although  their  natural  fleetness  of 
foot  suffered  inevitably  during  the  process.  The 
cattle  that  now  roamed  the  Campo  in  great  numbers 
afforded  them  ample  and  easily  obtained  meals. 
Indeed,  although  they  may  have  had  some  legitimate 
cause  for  grievance,  the  material  benefits  that  the 
influx  from]  Europe  accorded  the  Indians  were 
enormous. 

Yet  the  hatred  with  which  these  fierce  warriors  of 
the  Campo  regarded  the  white  intruders  tended  with 
time  to  increase  rather  than  diminish.  As  a foe  the 
Indian  was  far  more  formidable  now  than  at  the  time 
of  the  first  encounters.  Behold  him  on  horseback, 
careering  like  the  wind  across  the  pastures,  armed 
with  a deadly  iron-tipped  lance  some  fourteen  feet 
in  length  ! For  he  had  obtained  the  means  now  to 
fight  the  conquistadores  with  their  own  weapons,  and 
even  his  arrows  were  pointed  with  metal,  although 
he  still  retained  the  homely  stone  in  the  case  of  his 
ever  efficient  tolas.  Thus  he  remained,  immutably 
fierce,  alternately  winning  and  losing  the  endless 
fights,  but  never  conquered  nor  enslaved  for  three 
centuries.  At  the  end  of  that  period,  in  1832,  came 
the  end  of  his  race,  and  the  small  remnant  was 
practically  annihilated.  The  fate  of  the  last  four 
of  the  Charruas  is  pathetically  humorous,  as  illus- 
trating what  unsuspected  ends  a wild  community  may 
be  made  to  serve.  Two  men  and  two  women,  the 
sole  survivors  of  the  unconquered  warrior  tribe,  were 
sent  across  the  ocean  to  Paris,  where  they  were 
placed  on  exhibition,  and  doubtless  proved  a profit- 
able investment. 

Having  concluded  with  the  Charruas,  the  remain- 


148 


URUGUAY 


ing  aboriginal  tribes  of  Uruguay  demand  very  little 
space  by  comparison.  There  were,  nevertheless,  half 
a dozen  minor  groups  that  inhabited  the  other  portion 
of  the  land  that  is  now  Uruguay. 

The  Yaros  Indians  occupied  a small  district  on  the 
south-western  coast  of  the  country,  and  were  a war- 
like race  whose  customs  and  manner  of  existence 
much  resembled  those  of  the  Charruas.  .With  this 
latter  race  they  were  on  terms  of  hostility,  and  only 
allied  themselves  with  their  aboriginal  neighbours  fotf 
the  occasional  purpose  of  a joint  attack  upon  the 
Spaniards . At  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth 
century  they  were  to  all  intents  and  purposes  exter- 
minated by  the  more  powerful  Charruas,  the  few 
survivors  joining  the  ranks  of  their  conquerors. 

Little  is  known  of  the  Bohanes,  who  occupied  the 
coastal  territory  to  the  north  of  the  Yaros.  They 
were  likewise  enemies  of  the  Charruas,  and  in  the 
end  suffered  partial  extermination  at  the  hands  of 
the  latter  tribe.  It  is  said  that  a certain  number 
escaped  into  Paraguay  and  became  absorbed  amongst 
the  Guarani  inhabitants  of  the  north.  It  appears 
certain  that,  although  this  insignificant  group  could 
not  number  much  more  than  a hundred  families,  their 
language  differed  entirely  from  the  tongues  of  the 
neighbouring  tribes . 

The  Chanas  were  island-dwellers  whose  character 
contrasted  rather  remarkably  with  that  of  the  inhabit- 
ants of  the  mainland.  When  first  met  with  they  were 
occupying  the  islands  in  the  River  Uruguay  to  the 
north  of  the  point  where  the  Rio  Negro  joins  the 
principal  stream.  A race  of  peaceable  and  rather  timid 
folk,  they  suffered  not  a little  at  the  hands  of  the 
more  warlike  tribes.  Thus,  when  the  Spaniards 
occupied  their  native  islands,  the  Yaros  endeavoured 
to  obtain  a footing  on  the  western  coast -line  ; but, 
driven  from  here  by  the  Charruas,  they  found  shelter 


NATIVE  “ BOLEADORAS.” 


To  face  p.  148. 


/ 


ABORIGINAL  TRIBES 


149 


in  a collection  of  islets  to  the  south  of  those  that 
had  formed  their  first  abode.  They  were  more  or 
less  expert  fishers  and  watermen,  and  possessed  a 
language  of  their  own.  Many  of  their  customs  were 
akin  to  those  of  the  Guarani  Indians.  Thus  when 
the  bodies  of  their  dead  had  been  buried  for  a 
sufficiently  long  time  to  lose  all  flesh,  the  skeletons 
would  be  dug  up,  painted  with  grease  and  ochre,  and 
then  entered  once  again  in  company  with  their 
ancestors.  In  the  case  of  a dead  child  it  was  their 
custom  to  place  the  body  in  a large  earthenware  urn 
which  they  filled  with  earth  and  ochre,  covering  up 
the  vessel  with  burnt  clay. 

The  Chanas  lent  themselves  readily  to  civilisation. 
Towards  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century  they 
became  converted  to  Christianity,  and  in  the  be- 
ginning the  Jesuit  mission  station  of  Soriano  was 
peopled  almost  entirely  by  members  of  this  tribe. 
Of  an  intelligence  and  temperament  infinitely  superior 
to  that  of  the  remaining  tribes,  they  mingled  freely 
with  the  Spaniards  after  a while,  and  adopted 
European  manners  and  customs.  The  race  dis- 
appeared eventually  merely  from  the  force  of  absorp- 
tion by  marriage  with  their  civilised  neighbours. 

The  Guenoas  existed  in  the  north-western  portion 
of  the  country,  leading  a semi -nomadic  life.  They 
were  to  be  distinguished  from  the  Indians  who  dwelt 
to  the  south  of  their  territory  in  that  they  were  amen- 
able to  discipline  in  their  natural  state.  At  their 
head  were  recognised  chiefs,  or  caciques,  who  appear 
to  have  exercised  no  little  authority.  They  were 
endowed,  moreover,  with  a certain  amount  of  super- 
stitious belief,  and  witch-doctors  were  to  be  found 
among  them.  They  had  also  learned  the  art  of 
signalling  from  a distance  by  means  of  bonfires. 
Although  a warlike  race,  they  were  far  more  suscep- 
tible than  the  Charruas  to  outside  influence.  A 


150 


URUGUAY 


portion  of  the  tribe  eventually  found  refuge  in  the 
Jesuit  missions,  and  the  majority  of  the  males  took 
service  in  the  Spanish  and  Portuguese  armies. 

The  Minuanes  occupied  a territory  to  the  east  of 
the  Guenoas,  and  in  physical  appearance,  manners, 
and  customs  closely  resembled  the  Charruas,  to  such 
an  extent,  indeed,  that  the  two  tribes  have  frequently 
been  confused  by  writers.  An  error  of  the  kind  is 
natural  enough,  since  the  two  groups  were  wont  to 
bind  themselves  in  hard-and-fast  alliance  in  order 
to  combat  the  Spaniards.  The  Minuanes,  however, 
were  a trifle  more  advanced  in  some  respects  than 
their  southern  allies.  They  were  accustomed,  for 
instance,  to  wear  loin-cloths,  with  the  frequent  addition 
of  a skin  flung  across  the  shoulders.  Moreover,  their 
hostility  towards  Europeans  was  undoubtedly  less 
deep-seated,  since  the  Jesuits  succeeded  in  incorporat- 
ing them  for  a while  in  one  of  their  missions.  The 
majority,  it  is  true,  soon  returned  to  their  own  wild 
life,  but  a certain  number  remained. 

The  last  tribe  to  be  noticed  is  that  of  the 
Arachanes,  a people  of  Guarani  origin  who  lived 
on  the  east  coast  between  the  ocean  and  the  great 
Lake  Merim.  Practically  nothing  is  known  of  these 
folk.  They  were  dispersed  and  exterminated  at  the 
commencement  of  the  seventeenth  century  by  the 
Brazilian  mamelukes  in  the  course  of  their  raids  from 
San  Paulo. 


CHAPTER  XII 


MONTEVIDEO 

Population — Attributes  of  the  city — Situation  of  the  Uruguayan  capital — 
The  Cerro — A comparison  between  the  capitals  of  Argentina  and 
Uruguay — The  atmosphere  of  Montevideo — A city  of  restful  activity — 
Comparatively  recent  foundation — Its  origin  an  afterthought — Monte- 
video in  1727 — Homely  erections — Progress  of  the  town — Advance 
effected  within  the  last  thirty  years — The  Uruguayan  capital  at  the 
beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century — Some  chronicles  of  the  period — 
The  ubiquity  of  meat — Dogs  and  their  food — Some  curious  account  of 
the  prevalence  of  rats — The  streets  of  old  Montevideo — Their  perils 
and  humours — A comparison  between  the  butchers’  bills  of  the  past  and 
of  the  present — Some  unusual  uses  for  sheep — Methods  in  which  the 
skulls  and  horns  of  cattle  were  employed — Modern  Montevideo — The 
National  Museum — An  admirable  institution — Theatres—Critical 
Montevidean  audiences — Afternoon  tea  establishments — The  Club 
Uruguay — The  English  Club — British  community  in  the  capital — Its 
enterprise  and  philanthropy — The  Montevideo  Times — A feat  in 
editorship — Hotels — Cabs  and  public  vehicles — The  cost  of  driving. 

It  may  come  as  a surprise  to  many  to  learn  that 
Montevideo,  the  capital  of  Uruguay,  possesses  a 
population  of  almost  four  hundred  thousand  in- 
habitants. By  no  means  one  of  those  centres  that 
are  remarkable  only  for  population,  it  holds  almost 
every  conceivable  attribute  of  a modern  city — from 
boulevards  and  imposing  public  buildings  to  plazas, 
statuary,  and  a remarkably  extensive  tramway 
service. 

Montevideo  is  situated  at  a peculiarly  advan- 
tageous point  on  the  Uruguayan  shore.  No  student 
of  geography,  it  is  true,  could  point  out  the  exact 

151 


152 


URUGUAY 


limits  of  so  immense  a stream  as  the  La  Plata. 
Yet  for  all  practical  purposes  the  capital  of  the 
Republic  sits  just  beside  this  very  phenomenon. 
Thus  it  may  be  said  that  the  eastern  side  of  the 
town  faces  the  ocean,  while  the  southern  looks  upon 
the  River  Plate.  To  enter  more  fully  into  the 
geographical  details  of  the  spot,  the  chief  commercial 
and  governmental  districts  cover  a peninsula  that 
juts  well  out  into  the  waters,  thus  forming  the 
eastern  extremity  of  the  semicircular  bay  of  the 
actual  port.  Upon  the  ocean  side  of  the  peninsula 
the  shore  recedes  abruptly  northwards  for  a short 
space,  and  it  is  here  that  lie  the  pleasant  inlets  that 
are  not  a little  famed  as  pleasure  resorts. 

At  the  riverward  extremity  of  the  port  bay  is 
a landmark  that  is  indelibly  associated  with  Monte- 
video, whether  viewed  from  sea  or  land.  The  famous 
Cerro  is  a conical  hill,  surmounted  by  a fort  that 
dominates  all  the  surrounding  landscape.  But  of 
the  Cerro,  since  for  various  reasons  it  is  a place 
of  importance,  more  later.  The  capital  itself  claims 
the  right  to  prior  notice,  and  to  the  rendering 
of  a few  introductory  facts. 

Since  the  distance  between  the  chief  town  of  either 
republic  only  just  exceeds  a hundred  miles,  a com- 
parison between  Montevideo  and  Buenos  Aires  is 
almost  inevitable.  Indeed,  it  has  become  something' 
of  a hobby  on  the  part  of  the  Oriental  who  has 
visited  the  Argentine  city,  and  vice  versa.  Fortu- 
nately, the  comparison  can  be  made  without  the 
engendering  of  bad  blood,  since  to  a great  extent 
that  which  the  one  town  lacks  is  possessed  by  the 
other.  Thus,  in  the  first  place  Montevideo,  although 
astonishingly  thriving,  is  without  the  hastening 
crowds  and  feverish  hustle  of  the  city  across  the 
waters.  Again,  although  its  sheltered  bay  is  yearly 
accommodating  more  and  larger  vessels,  the  Oriental 


MONTEVIDEO 


153 


town  is  innocent  of  those  many  miles  iof  docks  teeming 
throughout  with  steamers.  Yet,  on  the  other  hand, 
lit  possesses  its  rocks  and  shining  sands  of  pleasure 
that  draw  the  Argentines  themselves  in  shoals  across 
the  river. 

Indeed,  the  atmosphere  of  Montevideo  is  restful, 
and  at  the  same  time  free  from  the  slightest  taint 
of  stagnation.  Even  the  more  modest  thoroughfares 
are  comparatively  broad,  while  the  many  new  avenues 
are  spacious  and  well  planned  to  a.  degree.  Perhaps 
the  keynote  to  the  town  in  these  respects  may  be 
found  in  the  fact  that,  although  the  absolute  dominion 
of  the  priests  has  long  been  a thing  of  the  past,  the 
sound  of  the  cathedral  and  church  bells  is  audible 
above  the  hum  of  the  traffic.  Even  in  the  ears  of 
the  most  ardent  Protestant  the  effect  is  not  without 
its  soothing  and  tranquillising  properties. 

It  is  true  that  there  have  been  some  who,  deceived 
by  its  peaceful  appearance,  have  altogether  under- 
rated the  actual  activity  of  the  city.  As  a matter 
of  fact,  the  progress  of  Montevideo  deserves  far  wider 
recognition  than  it  has  obtained.  The  town  repre- 
sents something  of  a babe  even  amongst  the  roll 
of  comparatively  youthful  South  American  cities.  Its 
foundation,  in  1726,  indeed,  was  due  to  an  after- 
thought, following  an  expulsion  of  Portuguese  who 
had  landed  at  the  solitary  spot  and  fortified  it  in 
the  course  of  one  of  their  later  expeditions.  Thus 
Colonia  had  long  afforded  a bone  of  contention 
between  the  two  nations,  and  even  Maldonado  had 
provided  several  battlefields  ere  the  present  capital 
was  colonised  or  thought  of. 

In  1727  the  panorama  of  Montevideo  could  not 
well  have  been  an  imposing  one.  At  that  time  the 
place  possessed  no  more  than  two  buildings  of  stone, 
although  it  could  count  forty  others  of  hide.  But 
the  erections  of  this  homely  and  odorous  material 


154 


URUGUAY 


that  in  the  colonial  days  were  made  to  serve  almost 
every  conceivable  purpose  could  have  added  very 
little  to  the  aesthetic  properties  of  the  budding  settle- 
ment. Once  established,  however,  the  city  grew 
apace,  and  in  due  course  the  natural  advantages  of 
its  position  raised  its  status  to  that  of  the  premier 
urban  centre  of  the  land. 

But,  although  Montevideo  flourished  and  increased 
for  rather  more  than  a century  and  a half,  its  leap 
into  complete  modernism  has  only  been  effected 
within  the  last  thirty  years.  In  this  respect  it  has 
only  followed  the  example  of  the  important  cities 
of  the  neighbouring  republics.  Thus,  in  1807,  when 
its  ninetieth  birthday  was  marked  by  the  British 
occupation,  the  accounts  of  numerous  foreign  visitors 
to  the  place  testify  to  its  primitive  state,  although 
all  agree  that  in  the  main  the  capital  was  a pleasant 
spot. 

That  the  streets  of  the  period  were  badly  paved 
it  is  not  surprising  to  hear,  since,  owing  to  many 
obstacles,  the  art  of  accurate  paving  is  one  of  the 
very  last  that  has  filtered  through  to  South  America 
in  general.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  admitted  that 
the  thoroughfares  were  well  lit.  Amongst  the  more 
disagreeable  peculiarities  were  some  for  which  the 
butcher’s  trade  was  responsible. 

In  a country  of  oxen  the  superabundance  of  meat 
was  made  only  too  evident.  “ Oftentimes,”  says  an 
English  chronicler  of  the  period,  “ when  a particular 
piece  of  meat  is  wanted,  the  animal  is  killed,  and 
after  cutting  out  the  desired  part,  without  taking 
off  the  skin,  the  remainder  of  the  carcass  is  thrown 
to  the  dogs,  or  left  to  rot  in  the  streets.”  After 
this  the  author  proceeds  to  make  a startling  state- 
ment : “ Almost  every  animal  is  fed  on  beef  ; from 
this  circumstance  pork  and  poultry  bought  casually 
in  the  market,  and  which  has  not  been  purposely 


MONTEVIDEO 


155 


fattened,  are  tinctured  with  a very  ancient  and  beef- 
like taste.”  The  first  part  of  this  piece  of  informa- 
tion is  undoubtedly  accurate  ; but  to  what  extent 
the  latter  is  the  result  of  imagination  or  of  fact 
it  is  perhaps  best  not  to  investigate  too  closely. 
According  to  this  theory,  some  of  the  plainest  of 
joints  must  have  contained  in  themselves  the  elements 
of  several  courses,  with  a species  of  menagerie  meal 
as  a consequence  ! 

In  any  case,  it  is  well  known  that  the  effect  of 
this  abundant  meat  diet  upon  the  prowling  dogs  of 
the  town  was  to  render  them  savage  and  dangerous 
to  the  casual  passer-by,  who  frequently  had  to 
defend  himself  as  best  he  might  from  their  attacks. 
The  extraordinary  prevalence  of  rats  from  similar 
causes  is  confirmed  by  other  authors,  Uruguayan  as 
well  as  English.  The  brothers  Robertson,  who  are 
responsible  for  such  an  excellent  description  of 
Paraguay  at  that  period,  have  some  curious  experi- 
ences to  relate  concerning  this  visitation.  Both 
received  much  hospitality  at  the  hands  of  their 
Uruguayan  friends.  “ The  only  drawback,”  writes 
one  of  them,  “ upon  the  delightful  way  in  which 
I now  spent  my  evenings  was  the  necessity  of  re- 
turning home  through  long,  narrow  streets  so  infested 
with  voracious  rats  as  to  make  it  perilous  sometimes 
to  face  them.  There  was  no  police  in  the  town, 
excepted  that  provided  by  the  showers  of  rain,  which, 
at  intervals,  carried  off  the  heaps  of  filth  from  the 
streets.  Around  the  offal  of  carrion,  vegetables,  and 
stale  fruit  which  in  large  masses  accumulated 
there,  the  rats  absolutely  mustered  in  legions. 
If  I attempted  to  pass  near  these  formidable 
banditti,  or  to  interrupt  their  meals  and  orgies, 
they  gnashed  their  teeth  upon  me  like  so  many 
evening  [ravening?]  wolves  . . . sometimes  I 

fought  my  way  straight  home  with  my  stick  ; 


156 


URUGUAY 


at  others  I was  forced  to  fly  down  some  cross  and 
narrow  path  or  street,  leaving!  the  rats  undisturbed 
masters  of  the  field.” 

No  doubt  had  a militant  vegetarian  of  the  period 
found  his  way  to  Montevideo  he  might  have  pointed 
out  many  object-lessons  in  favour  of  a lesser  carnal 
devotion.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  lamentable  that 
the  cheap  value  at  which  carcasses  were  then  held 
has  not  continued  to  prevail  to  this  day.  To  the 
small  population  of  a hundred  years  ago  meat 
seemed  to  grow  as  easily  as  grass -blades,  and  the 
uses  to  which  it  was  wont  to  be  put  seem  astonishing 
enough  in  an  era  of  butchers’  bills  and  shilling  steaks. 

Since  until  comparatively  recent  years  in  the  River 
Plate  Provinces  mutton  has  been  held  unworthy  of 
even  a beggar’s  acceptance,  the  carcasses  of  the  sheep 
suffered  the  most  ignominious  end  of  all.  Amongst 
the  other  means  they  were  made  to  serve,  the  animals 
were  driven  to  the  brick-kilns,  slaughtered  upon  the 
spot,  and  their  bodies  flung  into  the  ovens  to  feed 
the  fires.  As  for  the  cattle,  their  skulls  and  horns 
were  everywhere.  Prepared  by  the  foregoing  for 
revelations  of  general  utility,  it  is  not  surprising 
to  read  that  houses  as  well  as  fence -lines  were 
frequently  constructed  from  such  tragic  material. 

Such  reminiscences  of  the  past,  however,  have 
drawn  the  trail  too  far  aside  from  the  modern  city 
of  Montevideo,  where  dogs  are  subject  to  police 
regulations,  and  the  rat  is  scarce,  and  meat  as  dear 
as  elsewhere.  As  for  the  town  itself,  it  has  sprung 
up  afresh,  and  renewed  itself  yet  once  again  since 
the  colonial  days.  Indeed,  the  sole  buildings  of 
importance  that  remain  from  the  time  of  the  Spanish 
dominion  are  the  cathedral  and  Government  palace. 

The  national  museum  at  Montevideo  is  both  well 
represented  and  amply  stocked.  It  is  a place  into 
which  the  average  foreigner  enters  with  sufficient 


I» 


THE  CERRO  FORT. 


To  face  p.  156. 


MONTEVIDEO 


157 


rarity,  which  is  rather  lamentable,  since  a very  varied 
local  education  is  to  be  derived  from  its  contents. 
Uruguayan  art,  natural  history,  geology,  literature, 
and  historical  objects  all  hnd  a place  here.  The 
collection  of  primitive  Indian  utensils,  and  of  bolas3 
the  round  stones  of  the  slings,  is  unique.  It  is 
said  that  in  the  case  of  the  latter,  which  have  been 
brought  together  from  all  districts,  almost  every 
species  of  stone  that  exists  in  the  country  is  to 
be  met. 

The  historical  objects  here,  moreover,  are  of  great 
interest  to  one  who  has  followed  the  fluctuating 
fortunes  of  the  country.  The  early  uniforms  and 
weapons  of  the  Spaniards,  the  costumes  and  long 
lances  of  the  first  struggling  national  forces,  and  a 
host  of  other  exhibits  of  the  kind  are  assisted  by 
a considerable  collection  of  contemporary  local 
pictures  and  drawings.  Many  of  the  earlier 
specimens  of  these  are  exceedingly  crude,  but  none 
the  less  valuable  for  that,  since  the  battle  scenes 
are  depicted  -with  much  the  same  rough  vigour  that 
doubtless  characterised  their  actual  raging. 

In  the  gallery  devoted  to  Uruguayan.  painters  there 
is  at  least  one  picture  that  is  remarkable  for  its 
power  and  realism,  the  work  of  ai  famous  modern 
artist,  representing  a scene  in  the  great  plague 
visitation  that  the  capital  suffered.  It  is  a little 
curious  that  in  the  rooms  where  hang  the  specimens 
of  European  art  the  biblical  paintings  of  some  of 
the  old  Italian  masters  should  be  hung  side  by  side 
with  modern  productions  of  the  lightest  and  most 
Gallic  tendency  ; but  it  is  quite  possible  that  this 
may  have  been  done  with  intention  in  support  of  the 
propaganda  against  the  influence  of  Church  and 
religion  that  has  now  become  so  marked  throughout 
South  America.  In  any  case,  the  custom  is  one  that 
does  not  obtain  in  Montevideo  alone.  The  taxi- 


158 


URUGUAY 


dermic  portion  of  the  museum  is  exceedingly  well 
contrived,  and  the  entire  institution,  with  its  com- 
petent staff,  under  the  direction  of  Professor  Jose 
Arechavaleta,  is  worthy  of  all  praise. 

[With  social  institutions  of  all  kinds  Montevideo  is 
amply  provided.  The  theatres  a,re  well  constructed, 
well  patronised,  and  frequently  visited  by  some  of 
the  most  efficient  companies  in  existence.  It  is  true 
that,  owing  to  the  difference  in  the  size  of  the  two 
towns,  Montevideo  usually  obtains  the  tail-end  of 
a visit  the  most  part  of  which  has  been  spent  in 
Buenos  Aires.  But  such  matters  of  precedence  do 
not  in  the  least  affect  the  merits  of  the  various  per- 
formances. Both  actors  and  musicians  here,  more- 
over, have  to  deal  with  an  audience  that  is  at  least 
as  critical  as  any  that  its  larger  neighbour,  can 
provide. 

One  of  the  evidences  of  Montevideo’s  modernity 
is  to  be  found  in  its  afternoon-tea  establishments. 
Unfortunately,  the  name  of  the  principal  one  of  these 
places  has  escaped  me,  so  that  it  must  receive  its 
meed  of  praise  in  an  anonymous  fashion.  It  is 
certainly  one  of  the  daintiest  specimens  of  its  kind 
that  pan  be  conceived  both  as  regards  decoration 
and  the  objects  of  light  sustenance  that  justify  its 
existence.  As  a teashop  it  is  a jewel  with  an  appro- 
priate pendant — a tiny  coal-black  negro  boy  official 
at  the  door,  whose  gorgeous  full-dress  porter’s 
uniform  renders  him  a much-admired  toy  of 
humanity. 

The  chief  and  most  imposing  of  the  capital’s  clubs 
is  the  Club  Uruguay  that  looks  out  upon  the  Plaza 
Matriz,  the  main  square.  The  premises  here  are 
spacious  and  imposing,  and  the  club  is  quite  of  the 
first  order.  The  membership  is  confined  almost 
entirely  to  the  Uruguayans  of  the  better  classes, 
although  it  includes  a small  number  of  resident 


MONTEVIDEO 


159 


foreigners.  The  English  Club  is  situated  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  same  square,  and  is  an  extremely 
cosy  and  well-managed  institution  that  sustains  to 
the  full  all  the  traditions  of  the  English  clubs  abroad. 

The  English  community  in  the  capital  is  fairly 
numerous,  and  is  in  closer  touch  with  its  Uruguayan 
neighbours  than  is  the  case  with  the  majority  of 
such  bodies  in  other  South  American  countries.  The 
enterprise  and  philanthropy  of  the  colony  are  evident 
in  many  directions.  It  has  long  possessed  a school 
and  a hospital  of  its  own  ; but  subscriptions  have 
now  been  raised  for  the  erection  of  a larger  and  more 
modern  hospital  building,  to  be  situated  in  pleasant 
surroundings  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town.  A great 
part  of  th6  credit  for  this,  as  for  many  other  similar 
undertakings,  is  undoubtedly  due  to  Mr.  R.  J. 
Kennedy,  the  British  Minister. 

The  English  Colony  is  represented  journalistically 
by  a daily  paper,  the  Montevideo  Times,  a sheet 
of  comparatively  modest  dimensions  that  is  very  ably 
edited  and  conducted.  Indeed,  the  record  of  Mr. 
iW.  H.  Denstone,  the  editor,  must  be  almost  unique 
in  the  history  of  journalism  all  the  world  over.  For 
a period  that,  I believe,  exceeds  twenty  years  the 
production,  in  journalese  language,  has  been  “ put 
to  bed  ” beneath  his  personal  supervision,  and  not 
a number  has  appeared  the  matter  of  which  has 
not  come  directly  from  his  hands.  As  a testimony, 
not  only  to  industry  but  to  a climate  that  permits 
such  an  unbroken  spell  of  labour,  surely  the  feat 
is  one  to  be  cordially  acclaimed  in  Fleet  Street  ! 

The  Montevideo  hotels,  although  there  is  much 
to  be  said  in  their  favour,  are  comparatively  modest 
in  size,  and  somewhat  lacking  in  those  most  modern 
attributes  that  characterise  many  in  other  large  towns 
of  South  America,  and  even  those  in  the  pleasure 
resorts  on  the  outskirts  of  the  Uruguayan  capital 


160 


URUGUAY 


itself.  The  best  known  is  the  L'anata,  situated  in 
the  Plaza  Matriz.  But  I cannot  recommend  the 
Lanata  with  any  genuine  degree  of  enthusiasm.  The 
Palacio  Florida,  a new  hotel  in  the  Calle  Florida, 
is,  I think,  the  most  confidently  to  be  recommended 
of  any  in  the  capital.  The  tariff  here  is  strittly 
moderate,  the  service  good,  and  the  place  is  blessed 
with  the  distinct  advantage  of  a very  pleasant  lounge 
on  each  floor. 

In  many  respects  Montevideo,  although  its  scale 
of  expenses  is  rising!  rapidly,  still  remains  a place 
of  cheaper  existence  than  Buenos  Aires.  But  not 
in  the  matter  of  its  cabs  and  public  vehicles.  The 
hooded  victoria  of  the  Argentine  capital  is  frequently 
replaced  here  by  the  landau,  and  on  a provocation 
that  may  not  have  exceeded  half  a mile  the  piratical 
driver  will  endeavour  to  extract  a dollar — the  equiva- 
lent of  four  shillings  and  twopence. — from  his 
victimised  passenger.  The  reason  for  this  ambitious 
scale  of  charges  no  doubt  lies  in  the  fact  that  the 
Montevidean  is  very  little  addicted  to  driving  in  cabs, 
of  which  vehicles,  indeed,  the  very  excellent  tram- 
way service  of  the  city  renders  him  more  or  less 
independent.  Thus,  as  the  solvent  person;  is  said 
to  bear  the  burden  of  the  tailor’s  bad  debts,  the 
economies  of  those  who  ride  in  Montevidean  tram- 
cars  (are  visited  upon  the  pockets;  of  those  others 
who  patronise  the  cabs. 


CHAPTER  XIII 


MONTEVIDEO — continued 

The  surroundings  of  the  capital — Pleasant  resorts — The  Prado — A well- 
endowed  park — Colon — Aspects  of  the  suburbs — Some  charming 
quintas — A wealth  of  flowers  and  vegetation — European  and  tropical 
blossoms  side  by  side — Orchards  and  their  fruits — The  cottages  of 
the  peasants — An  itinerant  merchant — School-children — Methods  of 
education  in  Uruguay — The  choice  of  a career — Equestrian  pupils — 
The  tramway  route — Aspect  of  the  village  of  Colon — Imposing 
eucalyptus  avenues — A country  of  blue  gum — Some  characteristics  of 
the  place — Flowers  and  trees — Country  houses— The  Tea  Garden 
Restaurant — Meals  amidst  pleasant  surrounding — An  enterprising 
establishment — Lunch  and  its  reward — Pocitos  and  Ramirez — 
Bathing-places  of  the  Atlantic — Blue  waters  compared  with  yellow — 
Sand  and  rock — Villa  del  Cerro — The  steam  ferry  across  the  bay — A 
town  of  mixed  buildings — Dwelling-places  and  their  materials — The 
ubiquitous  football — Aspects  of  the  Cerro — Turf  and  rock — A pic- 
turesque fort — Panorama  from  the  summit  of  the  hill — The  guardian 
of  the  river  mouth — The  last  and  the  first  of  the  mountains. 


The  Uruguayan’s  appreciation  of  pleasant  Nature  is 
made  abundantly  clear  in  the  surroundings  of  the 
capital.  The  city,  as  a matter  of  fact,  is  set  about 
with  quite  an  exceptional  number  of  pleasant  resorts 
both  inland  and  upon  the  shore.  Of  the  former  the 
Prado  park  and  the  pleasure  suburb  of  Colon  are 
the  best  known.  The  Prado  is  reached  within  half 
an  hour  from  the  centre  of  the  city  by  means  of 
tramway-car.  Situated  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town, 
the  park  is  very  large  and  genuinely  beautiful. 
Groves  of  trees  shading  grassy  slopes,  beds  of  flowers 
glowing  by  the  sides  of  ponds  and  small  lakes,  walks, 

11  161 


162 


URUGUAY 


drives,  Sand  sheltered  seats — the  place  possesses  all 
these  commendable  attributes,  and  many  beyond. 

The  Montevidean  is  very  proud  of  the  Prado,  and 
he  has  sufficient  reason  for  his  pride.  He  has  taken 
a portion  of  the  rolling  country,  and  has  made  of 
the  mounds  and  hills  the  fairest  garden  imaginable. 
The  place  would  be  remarkable  if  for  nothing  more 
than  the  great  variety  and  number  of  its  trees,  both 
Northern  and  subtropical.  But  here  this  fine  collec- 
tion forms  merely  the  background  for  the  less  lofty 
palms,  bamboos,  and  all  the  host  of  the  quainter 
growths,  to  say  nothing  of  the  flowering  shrubs  and 
the  land  and  water  blossoms.  One  may  roam  for 
miles  in  and  out  of  the  Prado  vegetation,  only  to 
find  that  it  continues  to  present  fresh  aspects  and 
beauties  all  the  while. 

The  expedition  to  Colon  is  a slightly  more  serious 
one,  since,  the  spot  being  situated  some  eight  miles 
from  the  centre  of  the  town,  the  journey  by  tramcar 
occupies  an  hour  or  so.  As  much  that  is  typical  of 
the  outskirts  of  Montevideo  is  revealed  by  the  ex- 
cursion, it  may  be  as  well  to  describe  it  with  some 
detail. 

It  is  only  when  once  fairly  launched  upon  a journey 
of  the  kind  that  the  true  extent  of  Montevideo  and 
the  length  of  its  plane -shaded  avenues  proper  become 
evident.  Nevertheless,  as  the  car  mounts  and  dips 
with  the  undulation  of  the  land,  the  unbroken  streets 
of  houses  come  to  an  end  at  length,  giving  way  to 
the  first  quintas— the  villas  set  within  their  own 
grounds.  The  aspect  of  these  alone  would  suffice  to 
convince  the  passing  stranger  of  the  real  wealth  of 
the  capital.  Of  all  styles  of  architecture,  from  that 
of  the  bungalow  to  the  more  intricate  structure  of 
many  pinnacles  and  eaves,  many  of  them  are 
extremely  imposing  in  size  and  luxurious  to  a degree. 
A moral  to  the  new-comer  in  Montevideo  should 


THE  BEACH  AT  PARQUE  URBANO. 


THE  SAN  JOSE  ROaD  BRIDGE. 


To  face  p.  162. 


MONTEVIDEO 


163 


certainly  be  : Own  a quinta  in  the  suburbs  ; or,  if 
you  cannot,  get  to  know  the  owner  of  a quinta  in 
the  suburbs,  and  stay  with  him  ! 

But  if  you  would  see  these  surroundings  of  Monte- 
video at  their  very  beist,  it  is  necessary  to  journey 
there  in  October — the  October  of  the  Southern  hemi- 
sphere, when  the  sap  of  the  plants  is  rising  to 
counterbalance  its  fall  in  the  North.  The  quintas 
then  are  positive  haunts  of  delight — nothing  less. 
Their  frontiers  are  frequently  marked  by  blossoming 
may,  honeysuckle,  and  rose -hedges,  while  bougain- 
villaea, wistaria,  and  countless  other  creepers  blaze 
from  the  walls  of  the  houses  themselves. 

As  for  the  gardens,  they  have  overflowed  into  an 
ordered  riot  of  flower.  The  most  favoured  nooks 
of  Madeira,  the  Midi  of  France,  and  Portugal  would 
find  it  hard  to  hold  their  own  in  the  matter  of 
blossoms  with  this  far  Southern  land.  Undoubtedly, 
one  of  the  most  fascinating  features  here  is  the 
mingling  of  the  hardy  and  homely  plants  with  the 
exotic.  Thus  great  banks  of  sweet-scented  stock  will 
spread  themselves  beneath  the  broad-leaved  palms, 
while  the  bamboo  spears  will  prick  up  lightly  by  the 
ivy-covered  trunk  of  a Northern  tree — a tree  whose 
parasite  is  to  be  marked  and  cherished,  for  ivy  is, 
in  general,  as  rare  in  South  America  as  holly,  to 
say  nothing  of  plum-pudding,  though  it  is  abundant 
here.  Spreading  bushes  of  lilac  mingle  their  scent 
with  the  magnolia,  orange,  myrtle,  and  mimosa,  until 
the  crowded  air  seems  almost  to  throb  beneath  the 
simultaneous  weight  of  the  odours.  Then  down  upon 
the  ground,  again,  are  periwinkles,  pansies,  and  mari- 
golds, rubbing  petals  with  arum-lilies,  carnations, 
hedges  of  pink  geranium,  clumps  of  tree-marguerites, 
and  wide  borders  of  cineraria.  From  time  to  time 
the  suggestions  of  the  North  are  strangely  com- 
pelling. Thus,  when  the  heavy  flower-cones  of  the 


164 


URUGUAY 


horse-chestnut  stand  out  boldly  next  to  the  snow- 
white  circles  of  the  elder-tree,  with  a grove  of  oaks 
as  a background,  it  is  with  something  akin  to  a 
shock  that  the  succeeding'  clumps  of  paraiso  and 
eucalyptus -trees,  and  the  fleshy  leaves  of  the  aloe 
and  prickly-pear  bring  the  traveller  back  to  reality 
and  the  land  of  warm  sunshine. 

But  it  is  time  to  make  an  end  to  this  long  list  of 
mere  growths  and  blossoms.  The  others  must  be 
left  to  the  imagination,  from  the  green  fig-bulbs  to 
the  peach-blossom  and  guelder-roses.  Let  it  suffice 
to  say  that  a number  of  these  gardens  are  many  acres 
in  extent,  and  that  you  may  distribute  all  these 
flowers — and  the  far  larger  number  that  remain 
unchronicled — in  any  order  that  you  will. 

As  the  open  country  appears  in  the  wider  gaps 
left  between  the  remoter  quintas,  and  the  space 
between  the  halting-places  of  the  tram  is  correspond- 
ingly lengthened,  the  speed  of  a car  becomes 
accelerated  to  a marked  degree.  The  cottages  that 
now  appear  at  intervals  at  the  side  of  the  road  are 
trim  and  spotlessly  white.  They  are,  almost  without 
exception,  shaded  by  the  native  ombu-tree,  and  are 
surrounded  with  trelliswork  of  vines  and  with  fig- 
trees,  while  near  by  are  fields  of  broad  beans  and  the 
extensive  vineyards  of  commerce. 

Along  the  road  a rider  is  proceeding  leisurely,  a 
large  wooden  pannier  jutting  out  from  either  side  of 
his  saddle.  This  bulky  gear,  that  lends  such  a 
swollen  appearance  to  the  advancing  combination  of 
man  and  horse,  denotes  a travelling  merchant  of 
humble  status.  ,What  he  carries  within  the  pair  of 
boxes  there  is  no  outward  evidence  to  tell.  Their 
contents  may  be  anything  from  vegetables  or  chickens 
to  scissors,  knives,  or  sweetstuffs.  Since,  however, 
he  has  now  drawn  rein  by  the  side  of  one  of  the 
white  cottages,  his  wares  almost  certainly  do  not 


MONTEVIDEO 


165 


comprise  the  first  two,  for  the  market  for  such  lies 
within  Montevideo  proper.  By  the  time,  however, 
that  the  lids  of  the  panniers  have  been  raised  and 
the  bargaining  has  commenced  the  car  has  sped 
far  onwards,  and  has  dropped  him  from  sight.  Thus 
the  business  of  the  travelling  merchant — like  that  of 
the  majority  of  passers-by — remains  but  half  under- 
stood. 

But  here,  at  all  events,  comes  a group  of  riders  of 
another  kind,  whose  purpose  is  clear.  Half  a dozen 
small  boys  and  bareheaded  girls,  mounted  upon  dis- 
proportionately tall  ponies,  are  jogging  along  on 
their  way  to  school.  Uruguay  prides  itself,  with 
no  little  reason,  upon  the  efficiency  of  its  system  of 
education,  and  the  humblest  hut  now  sends  forth 
its  human  mites  to  absorb  the  three  R’s  and  to  be 
instilled  with  patriotically  optimistic  versions  of  their 
country’s  past.  These  rudiments  mastered,  they  need 
not  necessarily  halt  in  their  scholastic  career,  since, 
according  to  the  laws  of  the  land,  a professorship 
is  open  eventually  to  the  most  lowly  student  who  per- 
sists for  sufficient  time.  And  Uruguay  is  undoubtedly 
a nest  of  opportunities.  An  embryo  statesman  or 
learned  doctor  may  be  represented  by  each  of  the 
urchins  who  are  now  plodding  onwards  with  serious 
intent  through  the  dust  ! 

In  the  meanwhile  the  car  has  won  its  way  fairly 
out  into  the  open  country,  always  green,  smiling, 
and  thickly  shot  with  the  pink  of  peach-blossoms. 
The  rails  have  now  drawn  well  away  from  the  centre 
of  the  road,  and  are  separated  from  the  actual  high- 
way by  a grassy  space.  Stirred  by  the  importance 
of  possessing  a track  all  to  itself,  the  car  is  un- 
doubtedly aspiring  to  the  rank  of  a railway  train, 
and  goes  rushing  at  a really  formidable  pace  upon 
its  verdure-embedded  lines.  Swaying  over  the 
shoulders  of  the  land,  past  plantations,  lanes,  and 


166 


URUGUAY 


hedges,  it  plunges  onwards  in  grim  earnest  to  the 
terminus  of  the  line  at  Colon  itself. 

The  actual  village  of  Colon  gives  little  indication 
of  the  nature  of  the  district.  The  railway-station, 
shops,  and  houses  are  all  pleasantly  situated,  it  is 
true,  and  the  restaurants  and  pleasure -gardens  are 
unusually  numerous.  The  attractions  of  the  place, 
however,  lie  well  outside  the  central  nucleus  of 
buildings.  From  this  some  remarkably  imposing 
eucalyptus  avenues  lead  outwards  into  the  favourite 
haunts  of  the  Montevidean  when  on  pleasure  bent. 

Undoubtedly  the  most  salient  feature  of  Colon  is 
the  eucalyptus.  Indeed,  the  place  primarily  consists 
of  mile  upon  mile  of  these  stately  avenues,  fringed 
by  blue  gums  of  an  immense  size.  Bordering  these 
magnificent  highways,  that  cross  each  other  at  right 
angles,  are  country  houses  here  and  there  that  are 
reproductions  of  those  in  the  suburbs  of  Montevideo. 
In  between  the  avenues,  again,  are  clumps  and  small 
forests  of  eucalyptus,  whose  tops  soar  high  up  in 
tremendously  lofty  waves,  that  enclose  vineyards, 
peach-orchards,  and  olive-tree  plantations. 

Here  and  there  are  lanes  walled  in  by  mounting 
hedges  of  honeysuckle  and  rose,  while  many  of  the 
private  grounds  are  guarded  by  the  impassable  lines 
of  aloe.  Add  to  this  basis  all  the  other  trees,  shrubs, 
and  flowers  that  have  already  been  passed  on  the 
outward  journey,  and  you  have  the  main  attributes  of 
Colon. 

Since  the  topic  of  the  inner  man  appeals  at  least 
as  much  to  the  Urugua)^an  as  to  any  other  mortal, 
there  are  some  very  pleasant  restaurants  set  in  the 
midst  of  this  land  of  eucalyptus.  Perhaps  the  best 
and  prettiest  of  these  is  one  known  by  the  very 
English  name  of  the  Tea  Garden  Restaurant.  One 
of  the  chief  peculiarities  of  the  place  is  that  tea  is 
actually  partaken  of  there  from  time  to  time,  as  the 


EUCALYPTUS  AVENUE  : COLON. 


To  face  p.  166 


MONTEVIDEO 


167 


modern  Oriental  is  beginning  to  accord  this  cosmo- 
politan beverage  a recognised  place  by  the  side  of 
coffee  and  his  own  native  Yerba  Mate. 

At  the  Tea  Garden  Restaurant  it  is  possible  to 
lunch  by  the  side  of  a lake,  with  ripening  grape - 
bunches  above  to  throw  their  reflections  in  the  soup, 
and  with  the  falling  petals  of  orange-blossom  floating 
daintily  past  the  steaming  cutlets,  while  the  music 
of  the  ducks  blends  admirably  with  the  clatter  of  the 
table  weapons.  With  really  good  cooking  and  atten- 
tive service  added  to  these  side  attractions,  what 
more  could  one  want  ! 

But  the  proprietors  of  the  restaurant  are  nothing 
if  not  enterprising.  They  give  the  wayfarer  some- 
thing even  beyond  an  excellent  meal.  At  the  end  of 
the  repast  each  guest  is  presented  with  a ticket  that 
entitles  him  to  a free  cab -ride  to  the  tramway  ter- 
minus. The  idea  is  admirable.  Nothing  is  wanting 
but  the  cabs  ! At  all  events,  when  I had  concluded 
lunch  there  the  surface  of  the  fine  avenue  was 
innocent  of  any  vehicle,  and  continued  so  until  the 
walk  to  the  car  was  accomplished.  But  the  courtesy 
of  the  offer  had  been  effectual,  and  a certain  sense 
of  obligation  remained. 

The  bathing-places  of  Pogitos  and  Ramirez  are 
akin  in  many  respects  to  these  inland  resorts.  By 
the  side  of  the  sea  here  are  fewer  blossoms  and 
rather  smaller  eucalyptus  groves,  but  a greater 
number  of  open-air  restaurants  and  one  or  two  quite 
imposing  hotels.  Indeed,  Ramirez,  the  nearer  of  the 
two,  is  endowed  with  a really  fine  casino,  that  faces 
the  shoreward  end  of  the  pier,  and  that  has  by  its 
side  the  spacious  and  well-timbered  public  park. 

Pogitos  occupies  the  next  bay,  and  is  notable  for 
its  lengthy  esplanade  and  for  the  very  pleasant  houses 
that  give  upon  the  semicircular  sweep.  This  bay, 
moreover,  is  the  first  that  has,  so  to  speak,  turned 


168 


URUGUAY 


its  back  upon  the  river  and  has  faced  the  open  ocean. 
As  a token,  the  waters  are  tinged  with  a definite 
blue,  and  the  air  holds  a genuine  sting  of  salt  that 
rapidly  dies  away  when  passing  up-stream  away  from 
here.  To  the  Buenos  Airen,  who  enthusiastically 
patronises  the  place,  Pogitos  is  delightful,  if  for  no 
other  reason  than  the  sense  of  contrast  to  his  own 
surroundings  that  it  affotds  him.  Not  that  he  has 
any  reason  to  grumble  at  the  river  frontier  of  the 
rich  alluvial  soil,  from  out  of  which  his  fortunes  have 
been  built.  But  here,  in  place  of  the  soft,  stoneless 
mud,  is  bright  sand,  and  genuine  rocks,  piled  liberally 
all  over  the  shore,  that  shelter  crabs,  and  pools  that 
hold  fish  of  the  varieties  that  refuse  to  breathe  in 
any  other  but  guaranteed  salt  water.  So  it  is  that 
the  summer  season  sees  the  long  rows  of  tents  and 
bathing  machines  crowded  and  overflowing  with  the 
Uruguayans  and  the  host  of  visitors  from  across  the 
river. 

Both  Ramirez  and  Pogitos  are  within  the  range 
of  the  ubiquitous  tramcar.  But  this  very  efficient 
service,  not  content  with  its  excursion  of  half  a dozen 
miles  and  more  on  the  ocean  side  of  Montevideo, 
runs  in  the  opposite  direction  completely  round  the 
port  bay,  and  performs  the  yet  more  important 
journey  to  Villa  del  Cerro,  the  small  town  that  lies 
at  the  foot  of  the  hill  that  is  so  closely  associated 
with  Montevideo  and  its  affairs.  A far  shorter  route 
to  this  latter  place,  however,  is  by  the  busy  little 
steam  ferry  that  puffs  straight  across  the  bay,  and 
that  starts  faithfully  at  every  hour,  as  promised  by 
the  timetable,  although,  if  that  hour  coincides  with 
the  one  specified,  the  event  may  be  accepted  as  a 
fortunate  accident. 

Its  most  patriotic  inhabitant  could  not  claim  loveli- 
ness for  Villa  del  Cerro.  The  existence  of  the  spot 
is  mainly  due  to  the  presence  of  some  neighbouring 


MONTEVIDEO 


169 


saladeros , or  meat-curing  factories,  and  thus  the 
small  town  presents  the  aspects  of  the  more  humble 
industrial  centres.  There  are  two  or  three  regular 
streets,  it  is  true,  that  contain  a few  houses  with 
some  faint  pretensions  to  importance.  Upon  the 
balconies  of  these  the  local  sehoritas  are  wont  to 
gather  of  an  evening.  They  are  obviously  a,  little 
starved  in  such  matters  as  romance,  and1  a little 
fearful  lest  their  eye  language  should  lose  its 
eloquence  through1  too  long  a disuse.  Thus  the 
advent  of  any  passing  stranger  whatever  suffices  to 
cause  a certain  flutter  and  excitement  in  the  balconies 
above. 

Outside  these  main  streets  the  pattern  of  the  town 
has  been  left  much  to  the  discretion  of  its  most 
lowly  inhabitants.  Buildings  composed  of  unexpected 
material  sprout  up  from  the  earth  in  unexpected 
places.  Earth,  boards,  tin,  and  fragments  of  stone 
are  amongst  the  commonest  of  these,  although  there 
are  a certain  number,  stiffened  by  bricks,  whose 
comparatively  commonplace  exterior  looks  smug  and 
respectable  by  the  side  of  the  rest. 

Mounting  upwards,  the  architecture  of  the  out- 
skirts comes  as  something  of  a relief,  since  its  sim- 
plicity is  crude  and  absolute  to  the  point  of  excluding 
any  jarring  possibilities. 

The  ranchos  here  are  composed  of  nothing  beyond 
loose  fragments  of  rock  piled  one  on  top  of  the  other, 
with  an  odd  hole  here  and  there  that  serves  for 
window  or  door,  frequently  for  both. 

At  one  point  in  the  midst  of  these  primitive  stone 
dwellings  a small  group  of  scantily  clothed  boys 
are  playing  football,  the  implement  of  their  game 
being  an  old  sheepskin  rolled  into  the  nearest  imita- 
tion to  a globe  to  which  its  folds  will  consent  and 
held  together  roughly  with  string — one  more  instance 
of  the  spreading  triumph  of  football,  that  wonderful 


170 


URUGUAY 


game  that  seems  to  conquer  its  surroundings  and 
to  implant  itself  firmly  throughout  the  world  entire. 

The  turf  slopes  of  the  Cerro  itself  are  all  about 
one  now.  From  the  distance  they  had  appeared  of 
an  unbroken  green,  but  when  actually  approached 
the  broken  patches  of  bare  rock  upon  their  surface 
become  evident.  The  last  of  the  stone  shanties  are 
not  only  contrived  upon  one  of  these,  but  constructed 
from  the  very  site  upon  which  they  repose.  The 
result  is  a difficulty  to  distinguish  between  the  natural 
rock  and  the  habitable  flakes. 

The  short  turf  of  the  wind-swept  Cerro  is  innocent 
of  blossoms  save  for  the  ubiquitous  verbena,  a few 
stunted  tobacco  flowers,  and  some  other  lowly  blooms. 
Upon  the  very  summit,  where  the  rock  breaks  out 
boldly  and  piles  itself  in  jagged  heaps,  is  a pic- 
turesque fort,  from  the  midst  of  whose  walls  of  solid 
masonry  rises  the  dome  of  the  light  that  guides  the 
ships  into  the  harbour  below. 

The  panorama  that  opens  itself  out  from  this  point 
is  not  a little  remarkable.  On  the  one  side  lies  the 
bay  of  Montevideo,  thickly  dotted  with  its  steamers 
and  sailing  vessels,  with  the  towers  and  streets  of 
the  capital  spreading  far  inland  upon  the  opposite 
shore.  Beyond  this,  again,  are  the  undulations  of  the 
hills,  the  coastline,  and  the  ocean  that  shines  bril- 
liantly, although  it  is  only  dimly  blue.  On  the  other 
hand  stretches  the  River  Plate,  whose  waters  are 
deepening  their  yellow  as  they  extend  towards  the 
landless  horizon,  beneath  which  lies  Buenos  Aires 
and  Argentina. 

The  Cerro  guards  the  entrance  to  the  great  river. 
It  is  the  first  true  hill  upon  its  banks — and  the 
last,  for  over  a thousand  miles.  For  the  next  of 
its  kind  signals  the  approach  to  Asuncion — beyond 
Argentina  and  far  beyond  the  Banda  Oriental — in 
far-away  Paraguay.  And  much  water  flows  between 


MONTEVIDEO 


171 


the  tropical  heat  of  Asuncion  and  the  cool  freshness 
of  this  Cerro.  Therefore  the  place  is  worthy  of 
mark  as  the  southernmost  of  the  two  widely  separated 
sentinel  hills  that  guard  such  different  climes. 


CHAPTER  XIVi 


FROM  MONTEVIDEO  TO  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER 

Leaving  Montevideo — General  aspects  of  the  Campo — The  Rio  Negro  as 
a line  of  demarcation— Growing  exuberance  of  the  scenery — Flor 
morcila — Blue  lupin — Camp  flowers — A sparsely  populated  country- 
side— Absence  of  homesteads — A soft  landscape — Humble  ranchos — 
Cattle  and  horses — Iguanas  and  ostriches — Deer — Cardoso — Influence 
of  climate  and  marriage  upon  the  colonists — A cheese-making  centre 
— A country  of  table-lands — A Campo  load — Some  characteristics  of 
the  way — A group  of  riders — Some  contrasts — A country  of  rocks — 
Stone  walls — Crude  homesteads — Kerosene  tins  as  building  material — 
“ Camp  ” stations — The  carpets  of  blossom — Piedra  Sola — Tambores 
— Landscape  and  nomenclature — Increase  in  the  height  of  the  table- 
lands— Scenes  at  a country  station — Aspects  of  the  inhabitants — Some 
matters  of  complexion — The  train  and  its  transformation — Influence 
of  the  country  upon  the  carriages — Northern  passengers— Metro- 
politan and  local  costume — Some  questions  of  clothes  and  figure — 
Relations  between  mistresses  and  maids — Democratic  households — 
A patriarchal  atmosphere — Things  as  they  seem,  and  as  they  are — 
Conversation  no  guide  to  profession. 

I 

A journey  from  south  to  north  through  the  heart  of 
Uruguay  reveals  an  infinitely  greater  variety  of  land- 
scape and  humanity  than  is  suspected  by  the  dwellers 
in  the  better  known  littoral  districts  of  the  land.  It 
is  true  that  for  the  purpose  the  employment  of  the 
homely  and  convenient  railway  train  is  essential. 
Although  it  has  been  my  good  fortune  to  drive  for 
day  after  day  and  for  league  upon  league  through 
lesser  areas  of  the  Uruguayan  Campo,  to  cover  such  a 

172 


TO  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  173 


lengthy  stretch  as  this  by  means  of  coach  and  horses 
is  only  possible  for  him  who  can  afford  the  supreme 
luxury  of  ignoring  time. 

The  first  portion  of  the  journey,  moreover,  although 
far  from  wearisome  in  the  circumstances,  is  effected 
across  a landscape  almost  every  league  of  which 
presents  the  exact  replica  of  its  neighbours.  Once 
clear  of  the  woods,  fields,  vineyards,  orchards,  and 
flowers  that  lie  so  pleasantly  to  the  landward  side 
of  Montevideo,  the  rolling  grass  waves  of  the  Campo 
come  to  stretch  themselves  from  horizon  to  horizon, 
rising  and  dipping  with  a ceaseless  regularity  of 
sweep  until  it  becomes  difficult  to  believe  that  the 
entire  world  itself  is  not  composed  of  these  smiling 
folds  of  land. 

It  is  not  until  nearly  three  hundred  kilometres  have 
been  traversed,  and  the  train  has  rumbled  over  the 
long  bridge  that  spans  the  Rio  Negro  that  the  first 
symptoms  of  a changing  scenery  become  evident. 
The  undulations  have  become  less  regular,  and  the 
hill-tops  are  soaring  higher  into  the  sky-line.  Indeed, 
the  tendency  throughout  is  towards  an  exuberance 
that  has  been  hitherto  lacking.  Thus  not  only  the 
outbreaks  of  stone  that  scar  the  hill-faces  at  intervals 
are  bolder  in  character  now,  but  the  wealth  of  field 
flowers,  too,  has  grown  in  extent  and  brilliance. 

A broad,  glowing  bank  of  the  purple  flor  mo r ala 
lines  the  railway  track  on  either  hand,  pricking  across 
the  landscape  in  twin  unbroken  bands  of  colour. 
Where  the  loftier  flower  ceases,  the  red,  white,  and 
mauve  of  the  verbena  clings  closely  to  the  turf.  At 
longer  intervals  sprout  clumps  of  blue  lupin  blossom, 
while  the  white  mallows,  harebells,  and  tobacco 
flowers  lurk  thickly  in  between  the  groves  of  thistle, 
and  large  yellow  marguerites  and  daisies  mingle  with 
a variegated  host  of  blooms. 

The  countryside  is  as  sparsely  populated  as  else- 


174 


URUGUAY 


where.  League  upon  league  of  the  great  rolling 
sweeps  of  the  land  spread  their  panorama  unflecked 
by  a single  homestead.  So  far  as  the  mere  pictur- 
esque is  concerned,  the  result  is  admirable.  The  soft, 
dreamy  landscape  is  at  its  very  best  when  unburdened 
by  human  habitation.  Yet  in  such  cases  the  pictur- 
esque becomes  a luxury  won  at  the  expense  of  the 
practical.  Undoubtedly  from  the  green  background 
of  the  pastures  should  shine  out  the  white  walls 
of  estancia-houses  and  ranchos.  The  time  is  now 
probably  near  enough  when  such  will  actually  be  the 
case;  but  in  the  meanwhile  the  land  waits  in  com- 
placent patience,  sprouting  out  its  grassy  covering 
with  contemptuous  ease. 

Yet  it  must  not  be  imagined  that  the  landscape, 
however  lonely,  is  altogether  deserted.  Now  and 
then  may  be  discerned  the  clump  of  trees  that  stand 
out  like  islands  from  the  sea  to  shelter  the  dwellings 
of  the  owners  of  these  great  areas  of  soil.  At  long 
intervals,  too,  springs  up  a hedge  of  tall  cactus  that 
flanks  the  humble  rancho,  whose  tin  roof,  as  often 
as  not,  is  held  down  in  its  place  by  means  of  small 
boulders — a feature  of  architecture  that  recalls  the 
chalets  of  Switzerland,  although  it  is  certain  enough 
that  the  respective  buildings  have  nothing  else  in 
common. 

Here  and  there  graze  the  dumb  supporters  of  the 
homesteads — herds  of  cattle,  troops  of  horses,  and 
flocks  of  sheep.  These  districts  of  the  centre  have 
not  yet  attained  to  the  standard  of  breeding  that 
characterises  the  lands  that  fringe  the  great  rivers 
to  the  south  and  west.  Thus,  the  cattle,  although 
sufficiently  fat  and  sleek,  lack  the  finish  of  the  more 
aristocratic  Hereford.  Shaggy  of  coat,  long  of  horn, 
and  exhibiting  an  utter  lack  of  restraint  in  the 
strangely  varied  colour  scheme  of  their  bodies,  they 
are  essentially  of  the  criollOy  or  native,  order. 


TO  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  175 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  these  licensed  occupiers 
of  the  pastures  are  others  whose  existence  is  more 
precarious.  These  are  hares  who  race  away  at  the 
advent  of  a train,  and  iguanas  whose  long  tails  stream 
behind  them  as  they  depart  in  a flurry.  As  for 
the  ostriches,  they  have  obviously  come  to  the  con- 
clusion that  their  life  is  too  short  and  their  neck  too 
long  for  any  excitement  of  the  kind.  They  are  plainly 
bored  by  the  advent  of  this  noisy  invention  of  man, 
and  regard  it  languidly  from  the  height  of  the  two 
long  legs  that  repose  in  a supercilious  attitude. 

On  through  the  undulating  Campo,  where  the  rain 
pools  lie  like  dew  ponds  upon  an  English  South 
Down,  and  where  the  banks  of  the  intermittent 
streams  of  the  canadas  thread  in  and  out  of  the 
green  grass  for  all  the  world  like  the  bodies  of  black 
snakes.  A company  of  deer  are  feeding  peacefully 
in  the  distance,  intermingled  with  the  bulky  members 
of  a herd  of  cattle  with  whom  the  wild  creatures  have 
condescended  to  associate  for  the  time  being. 

The  train  has  pulled  up  at  Cardoso  now,  the  centre 
of  a district  that  is  considerably  more  populous  than 
the  majority.  The  place  was  once  the  site  of  a 
German  colony,  and  indeed  the  sole  reasons  why  it 
does  not  remain  so  to  this  day  must  be  laid  at  the 
doors  of  climate,  surroundings,  intermarriage,  and 
the  influence  of  all  three.  As  it  is,  chastened  by 
the  all-powerful  atmosphere  of  the  spot,  Teutonic 
features,  customs,  and  language  have  already  become 
modified  almost  to  the  extinction  of  the  original  type. 

The  phenomenon  affords  only  one  more  of  the 
innumerable  instances  of  the  tremendous  power  of 
absorption  that  is  latent  in  the  South.  American  con- 
tinent. In  contrast  to  the  mutability  of  all  things 
intrinsically  human,  the  industry  of  the  community 
remains  the  same  as  when  the  first  colonists,  strangers 
and  foreigners,  introduced  it  to  the  spot.  Cheese- 


176 


URUGUAY 


making  is  still  the  staple  trade  of  Cardoso,  and  the 
district  is  not  a little  famed  for  the  art. 

This  particular  neighbourhood,  however,  is  to  be 
noted  for  something  of  more  enduring  importance 
than  cheese.  It  is  here,  indeed,  that  the  soil  of  the 
land,  after  many  tentative  swellings,  each  more 
ambitious  than  the  last,  takes  upon  itself  to  change 
its  outline  in  a determined  and  conclusive  fashion. 
The  universal,  gentle  swell  of  the  undulations  has 
given  way  to  steeper  walls  of  green  surmounted  by 
curiously  level,  flat  surfaces.  Thus  the  face  of  the 
Campo  is  now  dotted,  so  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  with 
a collection  of  table-lands,  each  separate  and  differing 
slightly  from  the  rest  in  the  details  of  its  pattern, 
but  each  marvellously  distinct  and  clearly  cut.  The 
feature  is  characteristic  of  central  northern  Uruguay, 
and  is  continued  well  beyond  the  frontier  into  Brazil. 

Obeying  the  sociable  instinct  that  so  frequently 
links  the  railway  line  with  the  highway  in  these 
parts  of  the  world,  the  main  road  runs  close  along- 
side the  locomotive  track.  Where  it  goes  the  dark, 
rich  soil  gleams  moistly  in  every  dip,  and  each  cup 
in  the  land  holds  its  pool,  for  heavy  rains  hav^ 
preceded  the  brilliant  sunshine  of  the  day. 

For  many  leagues  the  broad  surface  of  the  way 
has  been  broken  by  nothing  beyond  the  inevitable 
attributes  of  such  thoroughfares — the  occasional 
pathetic  heap  that  stands  for  the  dead  body  of  a 
horse  or  cow,  or  the  bleaching  framework  of  bones 
that  gleam  out  sharply  after  the  vultures’  and 
caranchos’  feast.  But  here  at  length  comes  a body 
of  riders,  half  a dozen  Gauchos,  enveloped  in  ponchos 
of  various  patterns,  who  are  pricking  onwards  at 
the  easy  canter  that  renders  the  conquest  of  any  space 
whatever  a question  of  mere  time. 

Thudding  over  the  hill-tops,  splashing  through'  the 
mud-holes  below,  the  progress  of  the  grim,  silent 


TO  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  177 


centaurs  is  as  inevitable  and  certain  as  the  presence 
of  the  knives  at  their  belts  or  the  mate-bowl  slung 
by  the  saddles.  Then  the  train  has  sped  ahead,  drag- 
ging after  it  a world  of  its  own  as  remote  from 
the  atmosphere  that  surrounds  the  six  diminishing 
horsemen  as  is  the  clank  of  the  engine  from  the  light 
jingling  of  the  silvered  bridles. 

The  crop  of  stone  upon  the  land  has  become  more 
prolific.  The  rock  has  come  to  adorn  the  sides  of 
the  table-lands  more  especially,  breaking  out  with 
precision  at  the  spot  where  each  slope  of  the  green 
eminences  starts  out  abruptly  from  the  level,  after 
which  it  continues,  unbroken,  to  the  summit.  The 
material,  however,  has  been  made  to  serve  for 
purposes  of  utility,  and  here  and  there  are  corrals 
and  walls  of  loosely  piled  stones,  a novel  sight 
to  one  who  is  working  his  way  upwards  from  the 
south. 

The  scarce  ranchos,  however,  continue  on  much 
the  same  pattern  that  has  characterised  them  through- 
out the  journey.  The  crudeness  of  many  of  these  is 
scarcely  to  be  excelled  in  any  part  of  the  world.  To 
imagine  an  edifice  composed  of  the  lids  and  sides 
of  kerosene  tins,  roofed  and  finished  off  at  the  odd 
corners  by  straggling  tufts  of  reed,  is  to  picture  the 
abode  of  by  no  means  the  most  humble  settler. 

One  or  two  are  embellished,  it  is  true,  by  a rough 
treliiswork  from  which  the  vine-leaves  hang  thickly, 
while  others  are  decorated  by  nothing  beyond  a 
variety  of  multi-coloured  garments  that  hang  out  in 
the  sunshine  to  dry.  Clustered  together,  the  modest 
homesteads  would  appear  sordid  and  mean.  As  it 
is,  the  open  solitudes  of  which  each  stands  as  the 
human  centre  lend  it  a certain  dignity  that  is  not 
in  the  least  concerned  with  the  pattern  of  the 
structure  itself. 

The  train  has  halted  at  a couple  of  small  " Camp  ” 

12 


178 


URUGUAY 


stations,  and  has  puffed  onwards  again,  leaving  the 
respective  brick  buildings,  with  their  scatter  of  out- 
houses, to  sink  back  into  the  lethargy  that  the  pas- 
senger train  disturbs  but  for  a few  minutes  every 
other  day.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  Achar,  the 
latter  of  these  halts,  the  surrounding  country  has 
broken  out  into  an  exceptional  blaze  of  flower.  The 
purple  of  the  flor  morala  stains  hillsides  entire  ; the 
scarlet  verbena  glows  in  spreading  patches  that  from 
a distance  might  well  be  mistaken  for  poppy-fields, 
while  all  about  are  other  flower  carpets  of  yellow, 
blue,  and  white. 

The  wealth  of  blossom  continues  unbroken  as  far 
as  Piedra  Sola,  or  Solitary  Stone — a spot  aptly  named 
from  a curious  square  block  of  rock  that  reposes  upon 
the  top  of  a mound  in  so  monumental  a fashion  that 
it  is  difficult  to  believe  that  it  is  the  work  of  Nature 
rather  than  of  human  beings — and  beyond  it,  adorning 
a country  that  grows  ever  bolder  until  Tambores 
is  reached. 

All  the  attributes  in  these  primitive  parts  savour 
of  Nature  and  of  its  simplicity.  The  very  nomen- 
clature is  affected  by  this  influence.  Thus  no  his- 
torical significance  is  to  be  looked  for  in  the  name  of 
Tambores — drums.  The  origin  of  the  word  lies  in  the 
surrounding  table-lands  that  have  grown  loftier  and 
more  accentuated  here  than  their  brethren  to  the 
south,  and  whose  shape  resembles  not  a little  the 
instruments  of  war. 

Tambores  is  a place  of  comparative  importance.  It 
is  true  that  no  architectural  beauties  are  to  be  looked 
for  at  the  spot,  since  the  quaint  collection  of  edifices 
that  are  scattered  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  station 
are  almost  without  exception  the  tin  and  reed 
structures  common  to  the  district.  Such  rare  excep- 
tions as  exist,  moreover,  hold  out  merely  minor  claims 
to  aristocracy  in  the  shape  of  an  entire  sheet  or 


TO  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  179 


two  of  corrugated  iron.  Yet  these  modest  precincts 
guard  a really  important  cattle  and  wool  centre,  and 
even  now  many  hundreds  of  bales  are  lying  in  readi- 
ness in  their  wagons,  while  cattle  stamp  impatiently 
in  the  trucks  that  will  bear  them  southwards  to 
Montevideo. 

Passing  to  and  fro  by  the  honeysuckle  hedge  that 
flanks  the  platform  is  a motley  collection  of  folk. 
The  majority  of  the  men  are  in  sad-coloured  ponchos, 
and  in  bombachos  that  frequent  staining  has  imbued 
with  an  earthy  hue.  In  addition  to  the  railway 
officials,  beshawled  women,  children,  dogs,  and  hens 
complete  the  gathering.  A feature  that  is  especially 
noticeable  here  is  the  number  of  dusky  complexions 
that  have  come  to  assert  themselves  in  the  midst  of 
the  fresh-coloured  Uruguayan  faces.  Quite  distinct 
from  the  swarthiness  of  the  Indian,  the  tint  here 
savours  undoubtedly  of  the  African.  It  becomes, 
moreover,  steadily  more  marked  as  the  ‘Brazilian 
frontier  is  approached. 

Indeed,  the  evidence  of  variety  is  everywhere. 
Even  the  conventional  aspect  of  the  train  itself  and 
of  its  passengers  has  undergone  no  little  alteration 
since  the  start.  As  it  pulled  out  from  Montevideo 
the  train  was  undoubtedly  a model  of  its  kind 
that  took  no  little  pride  in  its  well-ordered  level 
line  of  day  coaches,  and  sleeping  and  restaurant 
cars. 

Once  well  out  into  the  country,  however,  the  demo- 
cratic influence  of  the  land  has  overcome  its  patrician 
make-up.  A passenger  coach  or  two  has  dropped 
away  at  one  station;  some  trucks  and  goods-vans 
have  been  added  at  another,  until  its  appearance  has 
become  as  heterogeneous  as  that  of  a Uruguayan 
volunteer  soldier  in  a revolution.  In  fact,  the  farther 
from  the  capital  it  gets  and  the  nearer  to  its  destina- 
tion, the  more  neglige  and  doubtless  practical  does 


180 


URUGUAY 


its  appearance  become.  Like  to  a man  who  starts 
out  for  a walk  on  a hot  summer’s  day,  it  is  meta- 
phorically trudging  along  bareheaded,  with  its  coat 
slung  over  its  shoulder. 

In  the  case  of  the  passengers  the  same  may  be 
said  without  the  apology  of  metaphor.  It  is  in  the 
occupants  of  the  first-class  coaches  that  the  trans- 
formation is  most  evident.  Many  of  the  men  remain 
in  at  least  portions  of  the  same  clothes  of  metro- 
politan cut  that  served  them  in  Montevideo.  But 
ponchos  have  now  been  brought  out  and  donned 
to  hide  what  lies  beneath — ponchos  of  fine  texture, 
these,  that  stand  quite  apart  from  the  meaner 
drapings  of  the  peon , but  nevertheless  essentially 
national  and  of  the  land. 

As  for  the  women,  the  few  who  have  remained 
constant  to  the  train  since  the  beginning  of  the 
journey  remain  in  much  the  same  trim  as  when  they 
first  entered  the  carriage.  The  persistence  may  be 
due  to  the  vanity  that  is  alleged  by  man  to  be 
inherent  in  woman,  or  merely  to  the  laudable  desire 
of  giving  the  country  cousin  an  object-lesson  in 
costume. 

It  must  be  admitted  that  the  garments  of  these 
latter  tend  to  comfort  somewhat  at  the  expense  of 
appearances.  The  loosest  of  blouses,  wraps,  and 
skirts  are  wont  to  make  up  a figure  in  which  a waist 
may  at  times  be  suspected,  and  even  occasionally 
hoped  for,  but  is  never  seen.  Decidedly  the  pro- 
cedure savours  of  rigid  honesty  on  the  part  of  the 
country  cousin.  For  frankly  to  promise  nothing  is 
surely  more  admirable  than  the  transient  advertise- 
ment achieved  by  the  manufacture  of  merely  tem- 
porary space  in  the  position  rightfully  sought  for 
by  superfluous  material. 

Many  of  these  country  ladies  with  the  honest  and 
unaccentuated  figures  are  accompanied  by  their 


TO  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  181 


maids,  these  latter  for  the  most  part  negresses.  The 
bond  between  mistress  and  maid  is  very  close  here. 
Indeed,  in  Northern  Uruguay  such  episodes  as  a 
“ month’s  warning,”  a demand  for  an  extra  “ night 
out,”  the  right  to  “ followers,”  and  all  other  similar 
bones  of  contention  that  arise  in  more  populous 
centres  between  employer  and  employed  are  un- 
known. 

Here  the  maid,  whether  she  be  negress,  mottled, 
or  white,  obtains  an  assured,  if  minor,  footing  in  the 
family  circle.  Not  only  her  love  affairs  but  her 
appetite  will  call  forth  the  ready  sympathy  of  her 
mistress.  Seated  together,  their  meals  will  be  shared 
in  common,  as  indeed  is  occurring  in  the  case  of 
sandwiches  and  wine  in  the  railway  carriage  even 
now.  To  complete  the  patriarchial  atmosphere,  the 
railway  guard  has  joined  one  of  the  groups  in 
question  in  order  to  assist,  purely  platonically,  at  the 
impromptu  meal,  and  his  manner  is  equally  courteous 
towards  senora  and  maid. 

It  is  certain  that  he  who  travels  in  the  remoter 
parts  must  put  aside  all  preconceived  notions  of 
degree  and  appearances.  Close  by  is  seated  a group 
of  young  men  who  are  discussing  the  opera  in  Monte- 
video with  critical  fervour.  After  a while  the  con- 
versation, as  is  inevitable,  turns  upon  politics,  and 
the  arguments  and  views  are  bandied  to  and  fro 
with  the  eloquence  common  to  the  race. 

But  there  is  original  philosophy  here,  whether 
sound  or  otherwise.  Schemes  for  alleviating  the  lot 
of  the  humble  worker  follow  hard  upon  the  heels  of 
topics  of  municipal  reform,  parliamentary  procedure, 
and  the  vexed  and  intricate  question  of  where  the 
Uruguayan- Argentine  frontier  floats  in  the  broad 
dividing  river.  The  phrases  are  wonderfully  apt, 
the  proposals  astonishingly  daring.  During  a pause 
in  the  political  discussion  one  of  the  debaters  explains 


182 


URUGUAY 


his  own  walk  in  life.  He  is  a jeweller’s  assistant. 
Another  is  head  waiter  in  a Montevidean  hotel.  These 
products  of  the  land  are  undoubtedly  bewildering. 
Each  has  been  talking  like  a prime  minister. 


CHAPTER  XV 


FROM  MONTEVIDEO  TO  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER 

— continued 

A remarkable  transformation  in  Nature — The  Valley  of  Eden — The  gate- 
way of  the  garden — An  abrupt  descent — From  bare  plain  to  sub- 
tropical forest — Picturesque  scenery — Eden  station — Some  curiosities 
of  nomenclature — Beggary  as  a profession — The  charity  of  the  Latin 
lands — The  cliffs  of  the  valley — Varied  aspects  of  the  vegetation — The 
everlasting  sweet  pea — Some  characteristics  of  the  mountains — A 
land  of  tobacco — Negro  cultivators — Appearance  and  dwellings  of 
the  colonial  population — Some  ethics  of  climate  and  customs — 
Tacuarembo — A centre  of  importance — A picturesque  town — Scenes 
at  the  station — Some  specimens  of  local  humanity — A dandy  of  the 
Campo — The  northern  landscape — The  African  population — Nature 
and  the  hut — The  tunnel  of  Banada  de  Rocha — Paso  del  Cerro — 
On  the  Brazilian  border — Rivera — A frontier  town — Santa  Ana — 
The  Brazilian  sister  township — A comparison  between  the  two — 
View  from  a neighbouring  hill — The  rival  claims  to  beauty  of 
the  Uruguayan  and  Brazilian  towns. 


Tambores  has  been  left  behind,  and  the  train  is 
speeding  once  again  through  the  undulations  and 
table-lands  of  the  pastures.  Although  the  new-comer 
is  unaware  of  the  fact,  the  climax  of  the  journey  is 
drawing  near,  and  one  of  the  most  remarkable  trans- 
formations in  Nature  is  about  to  reveal  itself  with 
the  suddenness  of  a pantomimic  stage -shifting. 

That  the  stranger  to  the  land  should  remain  un- 
aware of  what  lies  before  him  is  not  surprising. 
The  rolling  downs  have  encompassed  him  in  unbroken 

183 


181 


URUGUAY 


sequence  from  the  moment  that  the  outermost  suburb 
of  Montevideo  was  left  behind.  They  are  about  him 
now,  sinking  and  rising  until  their  smooth  green 
sweeps  upwards  in  long  waves  against  the  blue 
horizon.  Never  was  a fresher,  blowier  country,  with 
its  every  inch  open  and  bare  to  the  sunlight  and 
breeze.  It  is  difficult  to  imagine  such  a land  rubbing 
shoulders  with  a landscape  less  frank  and  guile- 
less. Its  only  fitting  boundaries  are  white  cliffs, 
and,  beyond  them,  the  wide  ocean. 

Yet  if  Nature  aspired  to  human  ideals  of  con- 
sistency the  hills  would  go  hopping  to  many  a queer 
tune.  After  all,  it  is  best  to  leave  it  to  ja.rrange 
its  surprises  in  its  own  way.  The  first  symptom 
of  a coming  change  is  afforded  by  the  appearance 
of  a growth  that  has  remained  a stranger  to  the 
landscape  until  now.  Rock  plants,  with  thick,  heavy, 
silver  leaves  and  snowy  blossoms  rise  up  thickly  of 
a sudden  to  whiten  the  ground.  Then  without  warn- 
ing the  train  is  speeding  downwards  through  the 
rock  walls  of  a cutting  that  seems  to  have  opened 
out  from  the  ground  at  the  call  of  an  Open  Sesame 
steam -whistle.  Two  or  three  hundred  yards  of  jsC 
steep  descent  that  makes  a precipice  out  of  the  stone 
side  on  either  hand,  then  a rapid  widening  of  the 
barrier  to  the  view — and  the  thing  is  done  ! The 
train  has  entered  the  Valley  of  Eden. 

Just  as  Adam  in  his  fig-leaf  gasped  in  dismay 
at  his  eviction  from  the  garden,  so  does  the  modern 
traveller  in  boots  and  buttons  exclaim  in  surprise 
as  he  passes  through  the  stone  gateway  of  this  later 
Eden.  The  two  or  three  hundred  yards  have  made 
an  incredible  memory  of  the  open  downland.  In 
its  place  are  rugged  cliffs  to  right  and  left,  at  the 
base  of  which  dense  sub -tropical  forest  sends  its 
waves  upwards  to  cling  to  the  stone  sides  as  far 
as  they  may. 


TO  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  185 


In  the  centre  of  the  valley  is  a stream  that  goes 
rippling  over  its  rocky  bed,  overhung  with  a curtain 
of  flowering  trees  that  hold  strange  nests  within  their 
branches,  and  the  festoons  of  the  lianas  that  plunge 
thickly  downwards  towards  the  earth.  The  scene, 
in  fact,  holds  all  the  enthusiastic  variety  of  the  sub- 
tropics. Nothing  is  wanting  to  the  picture.  The 
rock,  leaves,  flowers,  palms,  and  the  vivid  patches 
of  smooth  green  by  the  edge  of  the  stream  have 
as  accessories  the  turkey-buzzards  and  black  vultures 
carving  their  lazy  circles  above,  and  the  brilliant 
host  of  butterflies  beneath  that  float  airily  to  and 
fro  as  though  to  outflash  even  the  wonderful  feathers 
of  the  local  woodpecker. 

The  train,  as  though  itself  entirely  taken  aback 
by  these  new  aspects  of  Nature,  has  been  proceeding 
at  little  beyond  human  walking  pace.  Now  it  has 
drawn  up  by  the  side  of  a modest  building  and  a 
few  surrounding  huts  that  are  almost  smothered  in 
the  verdure.  Eden  station  ! The  sight  of  the  place 
is  far  less  incongruous  than  the  sound.  As  a matter 
of  fact  the  valley  itself  is  well  named.  No  spot 
could  better  endow  with  its  glamour  the  simple  life 
that  endures  until  the  inevitable  boredom  leads  to 
the  death  of  innocence.  Nevertheless,  the  railway 
company  should  reserve  special  accommodation  for 
the  garden.  Let  the  traveller  proceed  to  Margate 
or  Southend  as  he  likes.  But  a third-class  ticket 
to  Eden  ! The  thing  is  inconceivable,  yet  it  is  done 
every  day. 

The  advent  of  the  train,  however,  affords  a harvest 
to  at  least  one  inhabitant  of  this  secluded  and  fair 
corner.  An  aged  negro,  who  was  undoubtedly  born 
a slave  across  the  Brazilian  frontier,  is  slowly 
hobbling  the  length  of  the  train  collecting  toll  from 
the  passengers  as  he  goes.  In  South  America  are 
two  professions  that  stand  apart  from  all  the  rest. 


186 


URUGUAY 


Failing  the  status  of  a:  millionaire,  become  a beggar 
by  all  means  ! As  regards  a profitable  occupation, 
not  one  of  the  intermediate  walks  of  life  can  equal 
the  extremes  at  the  social  poles.  That  of  politician 
is  perhaps  nearest  akin  to  both  ; but,  intrinsically, 
the  phrase  is  transitory,  since  a rapid  absorption  at 
one  end  or  the  other  is  practically  inevitable. 

The  aged  negro  is  collecting  his  dues  with  grave 
complacency.  A general  dealer  in  receipts,  his  profits 
are  by  no  means  restricted  to  mere  cash.  Business 
in  centavos  is  amazingly  brisk  ; but  so  are  the  trans- 
actions in  cigarettes,  cigars,  fruit,  and  morsels  of 
food.  Ere  the  train  starts  the  benignity  has  grown 
deep  upon  the  old  man’s  face.  .When  the  place  is 
lonely  and  still  once  more  he  will  totter  back  to  his 
tiny  reed  hut,  with  its  insignificant  patch  of  maize, 
and  will  smoke,  and  eat,  and  drink,  in  senile  enjoy- 
ment of  the  lengthy  holiday  that  separates  his  tri- 
weekly half-hours  of  work.  He  may  thank  the  God 
of  beggars  that  he  was  born  in  a Latin  land. 

The  train  is  moving  onwards  once  again,  and  the 
bold  grey  cliffs  and  bluffs  recede  as  the  valley  widens. 
Although  the  first  full  beauty  of  the  scene  has  lost 
by  the  expansion,  the  wealth  of  colour  remains.  The 
forest  trees  for  the  most  part  are  flecked  with  brilliant 
yellow,  while  the  surface  of  the  swamps  that  now 
cover  the  centre  of  the  valley  are  thickly  spangled 
with  the  pure  white  of  their  own  broad  blossoms. 

But  an  attempt  to  describe  the  various  growths 
would  be  the  task  of  a botanist.  One  alone  must 
be  described  for  its  striking  propensities  if  for 
nothing  beyond.  In  all  directions  are  bushes  of 
glowing  mauve  flower — or,  at  least,  so  they  appear  at 
the  first  glimpse  to  the  eye.  The  sight  is  not  a little 
amazing,  since  many  of  the  shrubs,  a dozen  feet  in 
height,  are  covered  from  top  to  bottom  with  an  un- 
broken coat  of  petals.  A nearer  inspection  solves 


OXEN  DRAWING  RAILWAY  COACH. 


BEFORE  THE  FAIR  : TACUAREMBO. 


To  face  186. 


TO  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  187 


the  mystery  some  while  after.  The  flower  itself  is 
a parasite,  an  everlasting  sweet  pea,  that  goes  the 
length  of  concealing  from  sight  the  bush  on  which 
it  depends. 

In  the  meanwhile  the  valley  has  widened  >until 
the  well-defined  cliffs  that  hemmed  in  its  beginning 
have  disappeared  altogether.  But  the  country 
remains  entirely  distinct  from  the  open  Campo 
that  preceded  the  gate  of  Eden.  There  is  pasture 
here,  it  is  true,  but  it  is  pasture  broken  and  inter- 
sected by  woodland,  river  courses,  ravines,  and 
mountains.  It  is  curious  to  remark  that  among  the 
latter,  although  many  are  bold  and  lofty,  there  is 
not  a peak  to  be  met  with.  In  obedience  to  what 
appears  to  be  a hard-and-fast  law  of  the  hills,  the 
top  of  each  is  shorn  evenly  across,  leaving  a flat 
and  level  summit. 

The  country  is  one  of  tobacco  now  as  well  a;s 
of  maize,  and  the  aspect  of  the  cultivators  coincides 
to  a great  extent  with  the  popular  notions  of  the 
mise  en  scene  of  the  tobacco -fields.  The  population 
of  the  tiny  mud  huts  that  decorate  the  land  is  almost 
entirely  negro,  and  the  inevitable  piccaninny  is  much 
in  evidence,  having  apparently  escaped  in  shoals  from 
the  London  music-hall  stage.  The  costume  of  the 
younger  boys,  however,  would  scarcely  pass  muster 
in  a more  conventional  neighbourhood.  The  sole 
garment  of  many  of  the  younger  ones  consists  of  a 
shirt,  and  a very  frayed  one  at  that — a costume 
that  is  eminently  suitable  to  the  palm-tree,  but 
criminal  beneath  the  oak. 

The  next  halt  is  at  a place  of  importance,  one 
of  the  chief  features,  in  fact,  of  the  Far  North. 
Tacuarembo  numbers  a population  of  almost  eight 
thousand,  which,  although  the  figure  may  not  impress 
the  outer  world,  renders  the  spot  something  of  an 
urban  giant  in  the  neighbourhood.  As  though  to 


188 


URUGUAY 


compensate  for  its  lack  of  imposing  buildings, 
Tacuarembo  is  exceedingly  picturesque.  With  its 
avenues  of  tall  trees,  and  its  houses  peering  every- 
where from  beneath  the  shade  of  an  unusual  richness 
of  vegetation,  the  place  is  sufficiently  delightful  and 
striking  in  its  own  fashion. 

The  station  itself  gives  the  keynote  to  the  aspects 
of  the  place.  Within  half  a dozen  yards  of  where 
the  white  steam  goes  hissing  upwards  from  the  engine 
the  green  young  peaches  hang  in  thick  clusters  from 
their  branches.  To  their  side  is  a hedge  of  blossom- 
ing roses  that  continues  until  the  flowery  architec- 
ture changes  abruptly  to  a wall  of  golden 
honeysuckle.  At  the  rear  of  this,  surrounding  the 
outer  yard  of  the  place,  are  poplars  and  eucalyptus, 
while  the  heavy  scent  of  the  purple  paraiso-tree 
overpowers  the  fainter  colours  of  the  mimosa. 

A dozen  or  so  of  the  local  “ coches  ” are  waiting 
in  the  shade  of  all  these  and  in  that  of  the  vines 
that  clamber  upwards  by  their  side.  They  are  crude 
affairs,  whose  lack  of  paint  and  polish  is  more  than 
counteracted  by  the  dictatorial  attitudes  of  the 
brigand-like  drivers  who  lounge  at  ease  upon  the 
boxes.  It  must  be  admitted  that  the  manners  of 
these  latter  are  far  less  formidable  than  their  appear- 
ance. Indeed,  they  smile  far  more  graciously  than 
the  corresponding  metropolitan  tyrants  of  South 
America  as  they  drive  off  one  by  one,  bearing  away 
their  patrons  beneath  the  shady  avenues. 

The  majority  of  folk,  however,  remain  for  some 
while  to  chat  together,  since  in  these  parts  the  rail- 
way station  is  an  accepted  centre  of  sociability.  The 
queer  medley  of  the  crowd  possesses  its  own  charm. 
A group  of  officers  in  dark  uniforms  and  red  kepis 
rub  shoulders  with  Gauchos  and  peones  in  dark 
clothes  and  black  or  blue  bombackos.  Beyond  is  a 
knot  of  women  in  the  homely  and  loose  costume  of 


TO  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  189 


the  district,  bare-headed,  and  with  hair  drawn  tightly 
back  to  be  wound  into  a plain  knot  at  the  back 
of  the  head.  An  elaborate  dandy,  dressed  osten- 
tatiously in  the  favourite  black  from  head  to  foot, 
is  extracting  a few  centavos  from  the  pockets  of 
his  shining  velvet  waistcoat  with  which  to  endow 
a couple  of  dissolute-looking  beggars  who  have 
drawn  near. 

Although  the  jet-black  faces  of  the  negroes 
and  the  browner  tints  of  the  half-castes  are  much 
in  evidence,  the  countenances  of  the  true  Uruguayans 
remain  remarkably  fair  and  fresh.  Indeed,  the 
features  of  many  are  unusually  handsome,  and 
curiously  untouched  by  the  stress  of  heat  and 
climate. 

Perhaps  the  most  striking  of  all  in  the  neighbour- 
hood is  the  tall  figure  of  one  who  has  detached 
himself  from  a group  of  friends,  and  is  walking 
toward  where  a line  of  tethered  horses  is  waiting. 
Like  the  other  who  has  been  distributing  alrps  to 
the  beggar,  he  is  clad  from  head  to  foot  in  black. 
Nevertheless,  the  aspects  of  the  two  are  as  different 
as  night  and  day.  The  one  is  a walker  of  the 
streets,  this  latter  a true  lord  of  the  Campo.  Un- 
mistakably a landed  proprietor  of  no  little  considera- 
tion, his  costume  affects  the  Gaucho  to  a marked 
degree.  With  scarf  wound  negligently  round  his 
neck,  loose  jacket,  and  broad  bombachos,  the  spotless 
black  of  the  finest  material  is  finished  off  by  the 
light  boots  of  the  man  whose  life  is  spent  in  the 
saddle.  In  his  hand  the  rebenque — the  inevitable 
riding-whip — glistens  with  its  silver  carving,  a work 
of  art. 

None  could  deny  the  coquetry  of  his  appearance  ; 
but  this  is  the  stern  coquetry  of  the  warrior  and 
hunter,  as  a glance  at  his  grave,  rather  hawklike 
features  will  confirm.  A strikingly  handsome  figure 


190 


URUGUAY 


of  a man,  he  stalks  with  assured  tread,  raising1,  his 
sombrero  with  a simple  gesture  to  acquaintances, 
until  he  reaches  the  spot  where  the  line  of  horses 
are  tethered.  His  mount  is  a magnificent  bay,  whose 
leathers  and  bridle  are  silvered  as  thickly  as  they 
may  be  and  yet  remain  flexible,  while  the  saddle 
and  stirrups  are  heavily  coated  with  the  same 
material.  He  has  swung  himself  into  the  saddle  now, 
and  is  riding  away,  forcing  his  horse  with  consum- 
mate ease  into  a series  of  curvets  and  caracoles  that 
evoke  admiration  even  from  the  numerous  professional 
centaurs  in  the  crowd.  But  the  rider  never  once 
looks  back  as  he  swings  away  in  the  shade  of  the 
trees.  The  romantic  figure  is  either  unconscious  of 
admiration  or  too  accustomed  to  the  tribute  to  be 
concerned.  In  any  case,  he  is  a;  product  of  the 
land,  a veritable  paladin. 

To  the  north  of  Tacuarembo  are  grass  hills  over- 
shadowed by  the  inevitable  tall  table -lands.  Where 
the  rock  juts  out  from  the  side  of  these  the  fronds 
of  many  varieties  of  fern  sprout  thickly,  and  by 
their  sides  are  clumps  of  evening  primrose,  ever- 
lasting pea,  and  a wealth  of  far  more  brilliant 
blossoms  of  the  tropical  order.  In  the  hollows 
the  vegetation  of  the  wooded  streams  grows  ever 
more  luxurious,  and  here  the  flowers  star  the  banks 
in  the  wildest  riot  of  profusion. 

Seeing  that  it  is  springtime,  all  this  is  as  it  should 
be.  But  there  cannot  be  many  parts  of  the  world 
whose  inhabitants  are  permitted  such  a striking  re- 
minder of  the  season  as  is  the  case  just  here.  In 
the  neighbourhood  of  one  of  these  enchanting 
streams  is  a very  humble  mud  hut.  Its  dwellers 
are  pure  Africans,  and  they  are  just  without,  enjoying 
a sun-bath  with  all  the  zest  of  the  race. 

But  the  interest  of  this  particular  spot  is  not  con- 
cerned with  them  at  all  ; it  is  centred  upon  the 


TO  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  191 


modest  homestead  itself.  The  mud  walls  have  re- 
sponded in  an  amazing  fashion  to  the  call  of  the 
year.  Not  content  with  a background  of  lichen  and 
moss,  they  have  flung  out  lengthy  streamers  of  fern, 
from  amidst  which  peer  shyly  the  blossoms  of  various 
plants.  Obedient  to  the  impulse  of  spring,  each  of 
the  four  sides  has  garbed  itself  thus.  In  less 
exuberant  parts  the  effect  would  be  strained  for  with 
toil  and  achieved  with  triumph.  But  here  the  black 
inhabitants  regard  their  eloquent  house  as  a matter 
of  course. 

Just  after  leaving  the  small  station  of  Banada  de 
Rocha  is  a tunnel.  This  fact  may  appear  totally  un- 
worthy of  mention — anywhere  else  but  within  the 
countries  bordering  on  the  River  Plate.  Here  a tunnel 
is  an  object  to  be  paused  at,  and  to  be  inspected  with 
not  a little  curiosity.  Although  it  is  possible  that 
some  minor  burrowings  may  exist,  to  the  best  of 
my  belief  the  three  republics  of  Argentina,  Uruguay, 
and  Paraguay  can  count  no  more  than  two  regular 
turnels  between  them.  The  wonderful  shaft  bored 
thiough  the  heart  of  the  Andes  is  one — the  other 
is  before  us  here  at  Banada  de  Rocha.  As  the 
only  specimen  of  its  kind  in  Uruguay,  therefore,  it 
is  not  without  distinction,  and  is  worthy  of  at  least 
a passing  remark. 

After  passing  through  the  tunnel  the  line  drops 
down  into  a fairly  wide  plain,  hemmed  in  by  numerous 
low  ranges  of  the  inevitable  flat-topped  hills,  while 
a few  elevations  of  the  same  curious  nature  dot  the 
country  in  the  nearer  neighbourhood  of  the  track. 
In  a short  while,  however,  the  more  broken  country 
has  surged  up  all  about  once  again,  bearing  upon 
its  surface  quaint  rocky  projections,  some  shaped 
exactly  as  tables,  others  in  the  form  of  sugar-loaves, 
wdiile  yet  others  resemble  giant  mushrooms  sprouting 
cumbrously  from  the  soil. 


192 


URUGUAY 


Ere  reaching  the  station  of  Paso  del  Cerro  a great 
grove  of  carolina-trees  rises  majestically,  and  in  tha 
grateful  shadow  of  the  branches  a long  line  of  bullock- 
wagons,  each  vehicle  loaded  with  the  wool  for  which 
the  region  is  noted,  goes  winding  its  way  towards! 
the  station  in  the  stolid  fashion  of  such  processions. 
Paso  del  Cerro  is  delightfully  situated,  facing  as 
it  does  a range  of  hills  whose  surface  is  dotted  with 
ranches  that  appear  picturesque  enough  in  the 
distance.  Beyond  this  point  lofty  cliffs  of  rock  soar 
aloft,  pressing  near  to  the  line.  In  the  nooks  and! 
crannies  of  the  great  walls  are  dwarf  trees  of  fantastic 
shapes  that  make  pleasant  breaks  here  and  there 
in  the  bare  rock  of  the  surface. 

A little  farther  on  the  colour  of  the  soil  begins 
to  undergo  a transformation,  and  soon  the  red 
sandstone — the  colour  that  is  typical  of  the  same,  as 
well  as  the  more  northern,  latitudes  in  the  surround- 
ing republics — is  stretching  everywhere  to  join  with 
the  green  in  dominating  the  landscape.  A few 
more  wayside  stations,  and  then  Rivera  and  the 
Brazilian  frontier  are  drawing  near,  while  the 
mountain  ranges  that  mark  the  Brazilian  territory 
are  already  in  sight. 

Rivera  is  a town  of  no  little  local  importance, 
small  though  its  extent  may  be  as  it  nestles  in  a 
hollow  in  the  midst  of  the  hills.  The  soft  pink  of 
its  buildings  and  the  red  of  its  roads  and  hillsides 
contrast  delightfully  with  the  green  foliage  and 
brilliant  flowers  with  which  the  spot  is  so  liberally 
endowed.  Rivera,  moreover,  is  a place  that  can  lay 
claim  to  some  quite  notable  characteristics  of  its 
own.  It  possesses,  for  instance,  a magnificent  avenue, 
the  Sarandi,  that  stretches  for  over  a mile,  shaded 
by  trees  for  all  its  length,  from  off  the  central  portion 
of  which  lies  the  pretty  little  plaza. 

The  best  view  of  both  the  town  and  of  the 


liPM 


TUNNEL  AT  BANADA  DE  ROCHA. 


FRONTIER  STONE  AT  RIVERA. 


To  face  p.  192. 


/ 


\ 


TO  THE  NORTHERN  FRONTIER  193 


surrounding  country  is  to  be  obtained  from  the 
solitary  hill  near  by  that  marks  the  boundary  between 
the  two  republics,  and  that  bears  upon  its  summit 
an  old  and  battered  boundary-stone.  Viewed  from 
here  the  panorama  is  fascinating.  To  the  north, 
and  immediately  below,  lies  Santa  Ana,  the  Brazilian 
sister-township  of  Rivera,  that  sends  out  its  buildings 
almost  to  join  walls  with  those  of  the  Uruguayan. 
Santa  Ana  itself  presents  a picturesque  enough 
prospect  with  its  white  houses  and  luxuriant  gardens, 
its  wide,  unpaved,  shadeless  streets,  its  rambling 
barracks,  and  its  red-bricked  bullring.  As  a back- 
ground to  this  bright,  sunlit  picture,  and  one  that 
throws  it  into  strong  relief,  rise  range  upon  range 
of  the  dark  hills  with  their  shaven  summits,  starting 
up  abruptly  in  the  first  instance  from  the  confines  of 
the  town  itself,  and  fading  away  gradually  into  the 
misty  distance  of  the  province  of  Rio  Grande. 
Skirting  the  base  of  the  hill  to  the  east  is  a short 
avenue  devoid  of  buildings  that  serves  as  the  frontier 
line,  and  marks  with  no  little  emphasis  where  one 
town  ends  and  the  other  begins.  The  significance 
of  the  spot  is  accentuated  by  the  sight  of  the  sentry- 
boxes  of  the  frontier  guards  and  custom  officials. 
iTo  the  south,  reclining  in  its  own  hollow,  lies  Rivera, 
with  its  shady  avenues  and  its  conspicuous  round- 
towered  church. 

The  aspects  of  the  two  towns  are  curiously  different, 
considering  the  fact  that  from  their  absolute  pro- 
pinquity they  form  to  all  intents  and  purposes  a1 
single  city.  In  the  first  place  the  difference  in  the 
tint  of  each  is  marked.  The  general  colour  of  the 
Rivera  houses  is  red,  whilq  that  of  Santa  Ana  is 
pure  white.  The  distinction  is  merely  the  result  of 
differing  national  customs.  The  houses  of  both  places 
are  constructed  of  precisely  similar  stone,  but  the 
Brazilian  prefers  to  face  his  walls  with  plaster, 

13 


194 


URUGUAY 


Aatres  pays , autres  mceurs ; but  it  is  seldom  that 
the  contrast  may  be  viewed  from  so  near  at  hand. 
The  architecture,  moreover,  of  the  Santa  Ana 
buildings  is  of  a much  squarer  and  older  design 
than  that  of  those  in  the  Uruguayan  town.  The 
former  city,  as  a matter  of  fact,  is  considerably  more 
ancient  than  the  latter,  to  which  not  only  the  grow- 
ing timber  but  the  buildings  as  well  bear  witness. 
In  Santa  Ana  the  trees,  although  not  nearly  so 
numerous,  have  attained  to  far  grander  proportions 
than  has  been  the  case  with  those  across  the  border. 

If  one  should  not  judge  humanity  from  outward 
appearance,  the  procedure  is  even  less  wise  in  dealing 
with  a collection  of  human  habitations.  Feminine 
powder  and  rouge  are  as  mere  toys  in  the  matter 
of  guile  compared  with  the  alluring  scenic  effect 
that  a city  is  capable  of  producing  by  means  of 
bricks  and  mortar.  Judged  from  the  summit  of  the 
hill  without,  Santa  Ana  presents  an  even  more  inviting 
appearance  than  that  of  Rivera.  Once  within  the 
walls  the  aspects  of  the  situation  alter  abruptly. 
Santa  Ana  possesses  one  spot  of  beauty,  it  is  true. 
Its  luxuriant  and  shady  plaza  where  the  date-palms 
flourish  is  an  oasis  of  delight  set  in  the  midst  of 
sordid  surroundings  and  dusty  heat.  With  this 
exception,  it  must  be  admitted  that  the  place  is 
shadeless,  dirty,  and  evil-smelling. 

The  streets  of  Rivera,  on  the  contrary,  are  clean, 
well  paved,  and  sheltered  from  the  rays  of  the  sun 
by  the  innumerable  green  branches  that  stretch  so 
pleasantly  above.  The  townsfolk,  moreover,  differ 
less  from  those  of  Montevideo  than  might  be 
imagined,  although  the  heat  of  the  climate  has  been 
responsible  for  a rather  sallower  and  swarthier  type. 


CHAPTER  XVI 

HERE  AND  THERE  IN  URUGUAY 

Uruguayan  roads — A comparison  with  those  of  Argentina — The  benefits 
of  stone — Some  fine  metalled  highways — The  road  to  San  Jose — On 
the  way  to  Pando — The  journey  as  effected  by  motor-car — A smiling 
landscape — Distant  sand-dunes — A spotless  range — The  mountains  of 
Minas — The  town  of  Pando — A typical  minor  urban  centre — The 
ending  of  the  macadamised  road — The  track  beyond — An  abrupt 
change  in  the  order  of  going — The  bumps  of  the  Caropo — Piriapolis — 
A budding  pleasure  resort — Completeness  of  the  enterprise — Eucalyp- 
tus forests — A vehicular  wreck  by  the  way — Unsuccessful  Samaritans 
— The  work  of  Senor  Piria — The  Castillo — An  imposing  home — View 
from  the  spot — The  Pan  de  Azucar — A landscape  of  mountain,  valley, 
forest,  and  sea — Architecture  of  the  Castillo — Piriapolis  Bay — A centre 
of  future  bathing — Preparations  already  effected — The  hotel  and 
casino — A wonderful  feat  of  private  enterprise — Afforestation — En- 
couragement of  the  industry  by  the  Uruguayan  Government — The 
work  of  Mr.  Henry  Burnett — The  transformation  of  arid  soil  into 
fertile  land — Commercial  success  of  the  venture — The  Maldonado 
sand-dunes — Fulgurites — A curiosity  of  the  sands — Discoveries  by  Mr. 
C.  E.  R.  Rowland. 


A FEATURE  that  is  not  a little  remarked  upon  by  those 
who  have  entered  Uruguay  from  the  stoneless  Pampa 
of  Argentina  is  the  excellence  of  the  roads  that 
surround  Montevideo,  and  of  several,  indeed,  that 
penetrate  for  a considerable  distance  inland.  The 
highway  to  the  town  of  San  Jose,  for  instance,  that 
extends  for  ninety-six  kilometres  is  macadamised 
throughout  its  length,  and  is,  moreover,  excellently 
constructed  and  sustained. 

The  benefits  of  convenient  deposits  of  stone  are 
strikingly  emphasised  here.  Now  that  a start  has 

195 


196 


URUGUAY 


been  made,  there  is  no  reason  why  efficient  roads  of 
the  kind  should  not  pierce  the  countryside  in  all 
directions.  For,  notwithstanding  the  natural  fertility 
of  its  soil,  there  is  scarcely  a corner  throughout  the 
whole  length  and  breadth  of  the  Republic  that  is  not 
seamed  to  a smaller  or  larger  extent  with  these 
layers  of  useful  stone,  the  eruption  of  which  frequently 
marks  the  surface  itself  of  the  land. 

The  road  to  San  Jose,  as  a matter  of  fact,  is  by 
no  means  the  only  important  one  of  its  kind.  There 
are  various  similar  specimens,  equally  well  con- 
structed if  of  less  imposing  length.  A very 
admirable  road  leads  from  the  capital  to  the  small 
town  of  Pando  in  the  neighbouring  province  of 
Canelones.  The  journey  by  motor-car  is  an  easy 
one,  and  renders  an  admirable  insight  into  the  nature 
of  the  country  in  this  particular  district. 

Curiously  enough,  the  least  smooth  portion  of  this 
highway  is  represented  by  a mile  or  so  of  its  length 
on  the  outskirts  of  Montevideo  itself.  This  point 
once  passed,  however,  the  undulations  in  the  surface 
of  the  road  die  away,  and  the  broad  grey  thoroughfare 
stretches  with  remarkable  smoothness  over  hill  and 
dale.  The  car  can  snort  along  at  the  utmost  speed 
its  power  will  permit,  since  the  grey  band  opens 
out  ahead  with  a refreshing  openness  that  is  totally 
devoid  of  secrecy,  and  only  at  the  lengthiest  intervals 
is  its  surface  darkened  by  the  form  of  a rider  or  of 
a lumbering  country  cart. 

The  progress  is  of  the  switchback  order,  with 
long-drawn-out  rises  and  falls  that  are  effected  with 
alternate  exuberance  and  strainings,  while  on  either 
hand  the  fields,  verdure,  and  masses  of  fruit  blossom 
speed  by  in  very  pleasant  sequence.  For  a spring 
shower  has  laid  the  dust,  and  when  the  Oriental  land- 
scape smiles,  its  countenance  is  supremely  fascinating. 
As  though  to  add  just  the  tinge  of  sombreness  that  is 


HERE  AND  THERE  IN  URUGUAY  197 


requisite  for  the  accentuation  of  the  delightful  scene, 
a dark  forest  of  eucalyptus  stands  out  here  and  there 
by  the  way,  the  massive  serried  trunks  and  branches 
painting  the  landscape  with  a heavy  splash  of  gloom. 

For  the  first  few  leagues  the  aspect  of  the  country 
— although  the  great  variety  of  its  attributes  preserves 
it  entirely  from  the  taint  of  mere  monotony — remains 
much  the  same.  After  a while,  however,  the  skyline 
to  the  right  becomes  lightened  in  a rather  remark- 
able fashion.  The  foreground  is  a medley  of  green, 
brown,  and  purple — rendered  respectively  by  the  hills, 
trees,  orchards,  and  a patch  or  two  of  ploughed  soil. 
At  the  back  of  these  rich  colours  a range  of  very 
lofty  snow-white  sand-dunes  has  risen  up.  The 
gleaming  barrier  marks  the  frontier-line  of  the 
land  ; upon  its  farther  side,  invisible,  of  course, 
from1  inland,  are  the  breakers  of  the  South  Atlantic 
Ocean.  Indeed,  the  effect  of  this  spotless  range, 
when  viewed  from  the  shoreward  side,  is  doubly 
curious,  since  the  verdant  landscape  that  leads  right 
up  to  them  gives  no  other  indication  of  the  propin- 
quity of  the  sea. 

To  the  north-east  elevations  of  quite  another  kind 
have  been  slowly  rising  upwards  from  the  horizon 
as  the  car  speeds  along.  As  the  town  of  Pando 
itself  is  more  nearly  approached,  the  distant  moun- 
tains of  Minas  have  swollen  into  view  to  assert  them- 
selves in  a fashion  that  is  not  to  be  overlooked. 
Great  rounded  masses  piled  in  dim  purple  against  the 
horizon,  their  aspect  presents  a sharp  contrast  to 
that  of  the  dunes  close  by.  The  latter  are  shadow- 
less things,  clear-cut  and  wanting  in  depth  for  all 
their  purity  ; the  inland  mountains  are  deep  and 
secretive,  with  an  outline  that  confounds  itself 
mysteriously  with  the  sky. 

The  town  of  Pando  itself  is  remarkable  for  little 
in  the  way  of  commercial  or  industrial  development 


198 


URUGUAY 


beyond  forming  the  centre  of  a very  flourishing  agri- 
cultural district.  The  place  possesses  a quaint  red- 
brick church,  the  walls  of  which  are  adorned  with  a 
curious  number  of  balconies.  With  this  exception 
the  buildings  are  unpretentious  ; but  almost  every 
one  is  lent  its  own  particular  charm  by  the  wealth 
of  gardens  and  shade-trees  with  which  the  spot  is 
endowed.  Pando,  indeed,  is  one  of  those  very 
pleasant  minor  urban  centres  with  which  Uruguay 
is  so  plentifully  besprinkled,  with  its  delightful  sur- 
roundings of  orchards,  vineyards,  and  cultivated  land 
planted  here  and  there  with  eucalyptus  forests  and 
with  groves  of  other  trees.  In  the  near  neighbour- 
hood of  the  town  runs  a typical  Uruguayan  stream,  its 
banks  thickly  lined  with  verdure,  more  especially 
with  the  weeping  willows  whose  branches  droop 
downwards  in  a thick  green  curtain  over  the  water’s 
edge. 

It  is  at  this  placid  rural  centre  that  the  mac- 
adamised road  ends.  There  is  no  mistaking  the 
terminus  of  the  metalled  highway.  One  turn  of  the 
wheels  of  the  car  has  left  the  smooth,  hard  surface 
behind — and  then  begins  quite  another  order  of  going. 
The  progress  of  an  automobile  over  a representative 
local  road  of  the  country  partakes  of  many  elements, 
amongst  others  of  those  of  steeplechasing,  tobogan- 
ning,  and  of  the  switchback  railways  common  to 
those  centres  less  well  provided  with  natural  forms 
of  excitement.  The  mounds  and  valleys  of  the  way 
provide  an  unbroken  succession  of  surprises  to  which 
the  car  responds  by  lurching  and  dipping  wildly, 
although  the  dexterity  of  the  driver  keeps  it  stagger- 
ing upon  its  four  wheels.  Nevertheless,  a very  little 
of  this  goes  a long— or  an  incredibly  short — way.  So 
after  a while  the  nose  of  the  car  is  turned — a 
manoeuvre  that  demands  as  much  caution  as  putting 
a small  boat  about  in  a gale — and  the  vehicle  bumps 


EUCALYPTUS  FOREST  PIRIAPOLIS. 


THE  CASTILLO  : PIRIAPOLIS. 


To  face  p.  198. 


HERE  AND  THERE  IN  URUGUAY  199 


its  way  back  again  through  the  smiling  outskirts  of 
Pando  to  come  to  rest,  as  it  were,  upon  the  hard, 
grey  road  again. 

The  sand-dunes  of  which  a glimpse  has  been 
obtained  at  Piriapolis  are  characteristic  of  almost 
the  entire  length  of  the  Uruguayan  coast  that  gives 
upon  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  There  are  many  spots 
along  this  open  shore  that  are  well  worthy  of  a visit. 
Not  the  least  of  these  is  Piriapolis — a place  that  is 
in  the  act  of  making  a very  bold  bid  for  popularity 
as  a pleasure  resort.  Piriapolis  is  a spot  of  no  little 
interest.  Situated  a little  to  the  west  of  Maldonado 
on  the  southern  coast  that  faces  the  open  Atlantic, 
the  place  is  a budding  town,  and  is  noteworthy 
as  much  for  what  it  promises  in  the  future  as 
for  its  present  aspects,  interesting  enough  though 
they  are.  Piriapolis  is  remarkable  in  being  a one- 
man  place — by  which  no  connection  is  implied  with 
the  one-horse  epithet  of  tradition — in  that  it  has 
emanated  from  the  mind  and  pocket  of  a prominent 
Uruguayan,  Senor  Francisco  Piria. 

Piriapolis  lies  to  the  coastward  side  of  the  railway 
line  that  is  being  prolonged  in  the  direction  of 
Maldonado,  and,  as  matters  at  present  stand,  it  is 
necessary  to  board  a construction  train,  and  to  pro- 
ceed soberly  along  the  unballasted  track  to  the  point 
where  the  coach,  with  its  four  horses  abreast,  waits 
in  readiness  to  complete  the  journey.  It  must  be 
admitted  that  the  road  that  goes  rising  and  falling 
over  the  hilly  country  is  not  good.  The  future  will 
doubtless  endow  the  district  with  a network  of  high- 
ways of  quite  another  kind. 

But  Piriapolis  is  young.  Hence  the  unfortunate 
wagon  that  is  lit  upon,  shortly  after  the  start,  stuck 
hard  and  fast  in  the  deep  mud  of  a hollow.  In  the 
way  of  good  Samaritans,  horses  are  detached  from 
the  coach  to  assist  in  the  struggle  ; but  the  tenacious 


200 


URUGUAY 


mud  clings  in  unyielding  obstinacy  to  its  wheeled 
prey.  In  the  end  the  contest  is  abandoned  for  the 
time  being  ; the  lent  horses  return  to  their  place  in 
front  of  the  coach,  and  the  driver  of  the  wagon 
departs  gloomily  to  scour  the  neighbouring  country 
in  search  of  oxen. 

As  the  coach  proceeds,  the  way  lies  through  a wild 
and  mountainous  country  that  bears  not  a little  re- 
semblance to  portions  of  the  South  West  of  Ireland. 
But  here  in  the  place  of  the  whitewashed  Irish  cabins 
are  mud  ranchos,  almost  every  one  of  which  reposes 
beneath  the  sheltering  branches  of  its  own  particular: 
unit  or  group  of  ombu-trees. 

After  a little  more  than  an  hour’s  drive  the 
aspect  of  the  country  to  the  front  changes  abruptly, 
and  presently  the  coach  enters  the  cool  shade  of  a! 
great  forest  of  eucalyptus  and  pine.  It  is  difficult 
to  conceive  these  stretches  of  giant  trees  as  not 
having  covered  the  soil  for  generations.  Yet  less 
than  twenty  years  ago  the  face  of  this  particular 
district  was  as  bare  as  any  of  that  of  the  surrounding 
country,  since  it  is  only  eighteen  years  ago  that 
Senor  Piria  planted  the  first  sapling  that  went  to  form’ 
this  present  forest  land. 

Roads  of  a better  order  now  prick  their  way  the 
length  of  the  woodland  aisles,  and  after  a while  £ 
lonely  little  store  and  post-office  stand  out  from 
amidst  the  trees.  A little  beyond  evidences  of 
civilisation  appear  quite  unexpectedly.  A pair  of 
fine  wrought -iron  gates  are  to  the  front.  Once 
through  these  an  avenue,  adorned  by  statues  at  in- 
tervals of  a few  yards,  leads  to  a square  turreted 
building  that  is  known  as  the  Castillo , or  castle,  of 
Senor  Piria  himself.  The  dwelling  is  a pleasant  one, 
with  its  broad  stone  terraces  that  overlook  pretty 
grounds,  covered  with  semi-tropical  trees,  shrubs, 
and  flowers,  laid  out  after  the  Italian  style. 


HERE  AND  THERE  IN  URUGUAY  201 


The  view  obtained  from  the  upper  terrace  here  is 
decidedly  beautiful.  Beyond  the  gardens  spread 
broad  orchards  and  vineyards,  and  at  the  back,  of 
these  again  on  one  side  is  a belt  of  forest  that  covers 
the  ground  for  seven  miles  and  more  until  the  edge 
of  the  sea  itself  is  reached — a sparkling  line  of  blue 
that  is  visible  in  the  distance  from  here.  On  the 
opposite  side  rises  a rugged  hill  of  immense  queer- 
shaped boulders,  from  the  interstices  of  which  grows 
a dense  tangle  of  scrub. 

By  far  the  most  conspicuous  object,  however,  in 
the  whole  panorama  is  the  aptly  named  Pan  de 
Azucar,  or  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  that  rises  to  a 
height  of  some  two  thousand  feet  on  the  west  of  the 
castle.  The  hill  is  a]  bare  mass  of  serrated  rock, 
and  represents  one  of  the  highest  points  in  the 
Republic.  It  is  the  dominating  feature  in  a land- 
scape that  affords  a wonderful  combination  of 
mountain,  valley,  forest,  and  sea. 

The  architecture  of  the  castiilo  itself  is  somewhat 
original.  The  ground  floor  is  almost  entirely 
occupied  by  the  guests’  bedrooms,  apartments  with 
great  vaulted  ceilings  that  open  promiscuously  the 
one  into  the  other.  The  living  apartments  are  on 
the  first  floor,  and  the  walls  of  the  central  hall  are 
hung  with  many  old  Italian  paintings.  Above  this 
again  is  the  square  tower  that  stands  as  the  summit 
of  the  house.  I mention  the  architecture  more 
particularly,  since  it  is  entirely  unusual,  the  ordinary 
country  houses  of  Uruguay  being  almost  without 
exception  constructed  on  a single  floor. 

The  seven  miles  of  eucalyptus  forest  that  intervene 
between  the  castiilo  and  the  sea,  afford  a delightful 
drive  to  the  shore  of  Piriapolis  Bay.  This  portion 
of  the  coast  consists  of  a shelving  sandy  shore 
eminently  suited  for  the  purposes  of  bathing,  and  is 
backed  by  an  imposing  vista  of  forest  and  mountain. 


202 


URUGUAY 


The  hill  immediately  behind  the  bay,  by  the  way, 
is  locally  known  as  the  Sierra  de  los  Ingleses,  having 
been  employed,  it  is  said,  for  the  purposes  of 
smuggling  in  the  old  days  by  English  sailors. 

It  is  at  this  point  that  the  future  town  and  pleasure 
resort  of  Piriapolis  is  to  be  situated.  Some  consider- 
able start  in  this  direction  has  already  been  made,  as 
will  be  evident  when  it  is  explained  that  a great  hotel 
has  already  been  constructed,  and  is  now  complete, 
and  ready  for  the  day  when  it  shall  be  officially 
opened.  The  place  is  of  quite  a palatial  order, 
and  is  provided  with  no  less  than  120  bedrooms, 
as  well  as  with  a,  magnificent  dining-room  and 
very  spacious  apartments  and  lounges.  A broad 
terrace  runs  the  entire  length  of  the  building  on  the 
seaward  side,  and  the  tide,  when  at  its  highest,  reaches 
to  within  twenty  yards  of  the  hotel  itself.  A very 
useful  addition  to  the  place  is  a large  vegetable  and 
fruit  garden  that  holds  everything  of  the  kind  that 
is  needed.  The  plants  and  trees  flourish  amazingly 
well  here,  although,  curiously  enough,  their  roots  are 
planted  in  no  more  satisfying  a soil  than  sand. 

The  enterprise,  however,  has  not  contented  itself 
with  the  erection  of  the  hotel.  In  the  neighbourhood 
of  this  building  is  a small  casino,  destined  to  be 
employed  for  the  purpose  of  games  of  chance,  and 
almost  the  entire  margin  of  the  bay  is  dotted  by 
little,  square,  four-roomed  chalets.  At  some  distance 
from.1  the  hotel  a stone  mole  is  in  the  course  of  con- 
struction, and  it  is  here,  of  course,  that  the  pleasure 
steamers  will  land  their  passengers  when  the  place 
is  once  in  the  full  swing  of  its  active  life. 

At  present  the  place  stands  empty— a prepared 
shell  awaiting  this  influx.  As  a feat  of  private 
enterprise  Piriapolis  must  take  a high  rank  ; for 
the  difficulties  of  transport  have  added  vastly  to  the 
labour  of  the  undertaking.  It  is  a beautiful  spot, 


THE  PAN  DE  AZUCAK  MOUNTAIN. 


THE  NEW  HOTEL  : PIRIAPOLIS. 


To  face  p.  202. 


HERE  AND  THERE  IN  URUGUAY  203 


in  any  case,  and  the  pleasure  resort  should  meet  with 
all  the  success  it  deserves. 

The  topic  of  Piriapolis  brings  us  to  the  question  of 
afforestation.  On  this  portion  of  the  coast  the  science 
is  undoubtedly  one  of  supreme  importance,  and  one 
to  which  of  late  years  a fitting  amount  of  attention 
has  been  paid.  The  Government  of  Uruguay  has 
very  wisely  done  much  towards  the  encouragement  of 
tree-planting  and  the  transformation  of  apparently 
arid  areas  to  regions  of  genuine  fertility. 

As  an  instance  of  this  liberal  and  progressive  policy 
it  may  be  mentioned  that  in  1909  Mr.  Henry  Burnett, 
the  British  Vice-Consul  at  Maldonado^  was  awarded 
a gold  medal  and  a bonus  of  three  thousand  dollars 
for  having  been  the  first  to  plant  a collection  of 
over  ten  thousand  maritime  pines.  The  labour  in  the 
first  instance  of  inducing  these  young  trees  to  grow 
was  arduous,  and  time  after  time  the  budding  planta- 
tion was  buried  beneath  the  masses  of  driven  sand. 
With  the  eventual  survival,  however,  of  the  first  screen 
the  remainder  of  the  task  proved  easy,  and  Mr. 
Burnett  has  now  in  his  possession  over  one  hundred 
thousand  maritime  pines. 

Encouraged  by  this  example,  numerous  other  land- 
holders of  the  district  have  succeeded  in  cultivating 
similar  plantations,  and  the  result  has  proved  highly 
beneficial,  not  only  in  the  transformation  of  the 
country  but  from  the  commercial  point  of  view  as 
well.  For  districts  that  until  recently  were  absolutely 
worthless  are  now  valued  at  anything  from1  ten 
dollars  to  forty  dollars  the  hectare. 

A peculiar  characteristic  of  these  Maldonado  sand- 
dunes  is  to  be  met  with  in  the  fulgurites!  that  are 
found  there — the  vitrified  sand-tubes  caused  by  the 
action  of  lightning  that  are  referred  to  by  Darwin 
on  the  occasion  of  his  visit  to  the  spot.  Similar 
phenomena  obtain  in  £ few  other  corners  of  the 


204 


URUGUAY 


world,  but  those  found  here  are  by  far  the  largest 
in  size,  some  extending  to  no  less  than  five  feet  in 
length.  Owing,  however,  to  their  extremely  fragile 
nature,  it  is  impossible  to  extract  these  larger 
specimens  in  any  fashion  but  in  comparatively  small 
fragments. 

Mr.  C.  E.  R.  Rowland,  the  British  Vice-Consul  at 
Montevideo,  has  taken  especial  interest  in  these 
fulgurites  of  the  Maldonado  Sands.  The  British 
Museum  contains  some  very  fine  specimens  sent  by 
him,  and  he  has  supplied  the  national  museum  at 
Montevideo  with  its  first  specimens  of  these 
curiosities.  This  same  gentleman,  by  the  way,  quite 
recently  discovered  two  distinct  species  of  Uruguayan 
lizards  that,  sent  for  classification  to  the  South 
Kensington  Natural  History  Museum1,  were  dis- 
covered to  be  of  kinds  that  until  then  had  been 
perfectly  unknown.  They  remain  in  the  museum  to 
which  they  were  sent,  dignified  by  the  nam|e  of  their 
discoverer. 


CHAPTER  XVII 


MERCEDES  AND  THE  SWISS  COLONY 

The  journey  to  Mercedes — The  outskirts  of  Montevideo — Santa  Lucia — A 
pleasant  town — Native  quince  and  gorse — San  Jose — The  terminus  of 
a great  highway — Some  feats  of  engineering — The  urban  importance 
of  San  Jose — A modern  flour  mill — Mai  Abrigo — Character  of  the  soil 
— A country  of  boulders — Some  animals  of  the  Sierra  de  Mai  Abrigo — 
The  surroundings  of  Mercedes — A charmingly  situated  town — The 
terminus  of  the  line — Some  characteristics  of  Mercedes — Urban 
dwellings — The  delights  of  the  patio — The  disadvantages  of  economy 
in  space — Streets  and  plazas — The  hospital — A well-equipped  institu- 
tion— View  from  the  building — An  island  in  Rio  Negro — The  Port  of 
Mercedes — River  craft — Some  local  scenes — An  equine  passenger — 
Formidable  gutters — The  industries  of  the  town — The  Hotel  Comercio 
— Colonia  Suiza — Situation  of  the  Swiss  Colony — Uruguayan  Campo 
dwellings — Method  of  construction — Simplicity  of  household  removals 
— Aspect  of  deserted  huts — The  houses  of  the  Swiss  Colony — Habits 
in  general  of  South  American  colonists — The  range  of  nationalities — 
Liberty  accorded — Population  of  the  Colonia  Suiza — Its  industries — A 
dairy-farming  community — An  important  butter  factory — An  instance 
of  a rapid  rise  from  poverty  to  riches. 

The  railway  journey  from  Montevideo  to  the  town 
of  Mercedes,  on  the  Rio  Negro,  is  of  ten  hours’ 
duration.  The  first  portion  of  the  run  is,  of  course, 
through  the  pleasant  suburbs  of  the  capital  that  have 
already  been  sufficiently  described.  At  Juanico,  some 
forty  kilometres  distant  from  the  starting-point,  the 
denser  plantations  and  orchards  have  already  fallen 
away,  and  the  country  has  definitely  assumed  its 
natural  grazing  character,  broken  into  here  and  there 
by  large  areas  of  alfalfa.  The  place,  as  a matter 

205 


206 


URUGUAY 


of  fact,  is  an  important  dairy  centre,  from  which 
Montevideo  obtains  a considerable  proportion  of  its 
butter,  milk,  and  cheese. 

Santa  Lucia,  the  next  halt,  is  another  of  those 
smiling  Oriental  towns  embowered  in  gardens  and 
orchards,  and  surrounded  by  tree-dotted  pastures. 
Close  to  the  confines  of  the  town  runs  the  Santa 
Lucia  River,  with  its  banks  thickly  bordered  by 
willows  and  poplars  that  at  one  point  give  way  to 
a wide  avenue  of  the  popular  and  gigantic  eucalyptus. 
The  spot  is  much  patronised  in  the  summer  for  the 
purpose  of  picnics  ; for — to  his  credit  be  it  said— • 
the  Uruguayan  is  a great  connoisseur  of  the  al  fresco 
and  its  charms. 

On  leaving  Santa  Lucia  the  railway  line  makes  a 
sweeping  bend,  and  then  crosses  the  river  by  an 
iron  bridge  that  proudly  claims  the  distinction  of 
being  the  longest  on  the  system.  Upon  the  farther 
side  of  the  stream  the  country  is  brightened  by  the 
innumerable  blossom  sprays  of  the  many  wild  quince- 
trees,  and  by  the  broad  clumps  of  glowing  gorse. 
Soon,  however,  the  aspect  of  the  landscape  alters 
again,  and  the  train  is  speeding  once  more  through 
the  open  Campo  of  pasture -land  and  of  wheat  and 
barley  fields. 

San  Jose,  the  next  town  of  importance  to  be 
reached,  is  remarkable  as  being  the  terminus  of  a 
splendid  macadamised  road  that  runs  a distance  of 
ninety-six  kilometres  from  Montevideo  to  this  point. 
This  excellent  highway  is  constructed  in  a really 
imposing  fashion,  and  is  engineered  with  a : lordly 
disregard  of  all  obstacles.  Just  before  reaching  San 
Jose,  for  instance,  it  crosses  the  river  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  town  by  a magnificent  bridge  no 
less  than  360  metres  in  length.  This  work  was 
commenced  by  an  Uruguayan  engineer  in  1906,  and 
was  completed  in  1909,  at  a cost  of  nearly  two 


MERCEDES 


207 


hundred  thousand  gold  dollars.  The  Uruguayans 
take  a vast  amount  of  very  just  pride  in  this 
structure,  which  is  probably  one  of  the  finest  road 
bridges  in  existence.  It  forms  a fitting  conclusion, 
moreover,  to  the  best  road  in  lower  South  America. 

The  town  of  San  Jose  itself  is  fairly  important 
from  the  point  of  view  of  population,  since  it  numbers 
thirteen  thousand  inhabitants — a fact  that  places  it 
in  the  first  rank  of  the  country  towns  of  the  Republic. 
Its  chief  church  dominates  all  the  remaining  build- 
ings, and  affords  a notable  landmark  for  many  miles 
around.  iWith  the  exception  of  this,  San  Jose  con- 
tains little  of  interest.  It  is,  in  fact,  merely  a typical 
“ camp  ” town  that  serves  the  surrounding  agricul- 
tural area.  A most  up-to-date  mill  that  turns  out 
daily  twenty-one  tons  of  flour  is,  however,  worthy 
of  remark,  since  from  the  moment  that  the  wheat 
is  dumped  into  the  granary  to  that  when  it  emerges 
as  fine  flour  and  is  mechanically  poured  into  sacks, 
the  whole  process  is  effected  by  machinery. 

Beyond  San  Jose  the  line  climbs  gradually  to  the 
summit  of  a small  sierra,  whence  a spreading 
panorama  of  the  surrounding  country  is  obtained.  On 
leaving  Mai  Abrigo,  the  next  station,  the  character 
of  the  landscape  alters.  The  rich,  black,  vegetable 
soil  has  given  way  to  a;  rocky  surface.  Huge 
boulders  of  all  shapes  are  strewn  everywhere  as 
though  flung  by  some  giant  upheaval  into  their 
tremendous  confusion.  In  the  intervals  of  these 
great  rocks  grow  thorny  trees  and  shrubs.  Indeed, 
this  Sierra  de  Mai  Abrigo  differs  from  anything  that 
has  gone  before.  Hares  abound  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, and  at  the  approach  of  the  train  great  numbers 
of  the  animals  speed  away  behind  the  sheltering 
boulders.  The  armadillo,  too,  is  especially  plentiful 
in  this  region,  which  seems  to  favour  the  partridge 
and  martineta  almost  equally  well. 


208 


URUGUAY 


Bizcocho  is  the  last  point  of  call  before  reaching 
Mercedes,  from  which  it  is  distant  some  twenty 
kilometres.  From  here  the  ground — once  again  an 
open,  treeless  plain — slopes  continuously  as  it 
descends  towards  the  valley  at  the  Rio  Negro. 
At  the  near  approach  to  Mercedes  itself  the  country 
assumes  the  smiling  aspect  that  seems  the  inevitable 
attribute  of  the  environs  of  the  Uruguayan  towns. 
Gardens,  orchards,  streams,  plantations,  vineyards— 
all  these  flit  past  in  rapid  sequence,  until  the  train 
pulls  up  at  Mercedes  station,  the  terminus  of  the 
line. 

This  terminus  of  the  line  is  well  defined  in  more 
senses  than  one.  The  station  is  situated  on  a bluff 
that  hangs  immediately  over  the  Rio  Negro.  It  is 
merely  necessary  to  proceed  to  the  end  of  the  rails, 
just  beyond  the  platform,  in  order  to  look  sheer  down 
upon  the  water  of  the  river  some  hundred  feet  below. 
A thoughtful  act  on  the  part  of  the  railway  company 
to  halt  on  the  very  brink,  and  thus  to  supply  a 
panorama  in  the  place  where  the  rails  can  no  longer 
travel  ! 

As  a town  Mercedes  is  attractive  to  a degree. 
The  place  can  boast  of  no  great  s'ize:,  it  is  true, 
since  its  population  does  not  exceed  ten  thousand. 
Yet  it  is  exceptionally  fortunate  both  in  its  situation 
and  in  the  style  of  its  buildings.  The  main  portion 
of  the  city  consists  of  some  half-dozen  streets  running 
parallel  to  the  river,  crossed  by  a;  rather  greater 
number  of  thoroughfares  that  lead  directly  from  the 
water’s  edge.  The  houses  are  almost  without  ex- 
ception of  the  older  style  of  architecture — rather  low, 
spreading  buildings,  each  of  which  encloses  one  of 
those  charming  patios  that,  alas  ! are  now  growing 
steadily  fewer  with  each  year.  Surely  nothing  is 
more  delightful  than  this  verdure -filled  courtyard  set 
in  the  midst  of  the  house — the  small  stone-bound 


MERCEDES  : FROM  ACROSS  THE  RIO  NEGRO, 


MERCEDES 


209 


garden  with  its  flowers,  shrubs,  and  palms,  on  to 
which  give  all  the  lower  rooms  of  the  establishment  ! 
They  would  doubtless  continue  to  exist  for  centuries 
were  it  not  for  the  growing  power  and  insistence  of 
their  chief  enemy,  economy  of  space  ! 

The  streets  and  plazas  of  Mercedes  are  fairly 
animated,  for  the  town  is  the  centre  of  considerable 
social  life.  The  majority  of  folk  here  are  of  rather 
darker  complexion  than  those  of  the  capital,  but 
the  women  are  almost  equally  good-looking.  Coches 
are  plentiful  in  the  town  ; each  of  the  two -horsed 
buggies  will  seat  six  people  with  ease,  and  even  then 
will  speed  along  at  an  exhilarating  pace,  for  the 
steeds  of  these  public  conveyances  are  both  willing 
and  well  cared  for. 

The  highest  point  of  the  town  is  occupied  by  the 
hospital.  This,  like  so  many  other  Uruguayan  institu- 
tions of  the  kind,  is  a very  fine  establishment,  well 
appointed,  and  provided  with  large,  airy  rooms  and 
corridors.  From  the  roof  of  this  hospital  is  revealed 
a magnificent  view  of  the  town  and  its  surroundings. 
The  entire  panorama  is  one  not  easily  to  be  forgotten. 
So  far  as  the  river  itself  is  concerned,  it  is  possible 
from  this  point  of  vantage  to  follow  its  windings 
for  miles  in  both  directions.  The  river  here,  by 
the  way,  attains  to  very  nearly  a quarter  of  a mile 
in  width — no  despicable  stretch  of  water  even  for  a 
tributary  of  the  mighty  Uruguay. 

In  mid-stream  just  opposite  Mercedes  is  an  island 
— a gem  of  an  island  embowered  in  luxurious  vegeta- 
tion, and  completely  fringed  by  large  weeping 
willows,  whose  drooping  festoons  of  green  all  but 
touch  the  waters.  In  conformity  with  the  utilitarian 
spirit  of  the  age,  a scheme  is  on  foot  for  the  con- 
struction of  an  hotel  in  this  place,  and  surely  no 
more  alluring  spot  could  be  lit  upon  for  the  purpose 
— although  the  danger  to  the  landscape  from  the 

14 


210 


URUGUAY 


erection  of  an  unsuitable  building  would  be  very- 
real. 

Between  this  island  and  the  buildings  of  the  town 
is  the  port.  Here  the  topsail  schooners  and  the 
various  river  craft  of  all  descriptions  lie  at  anchor, 
including  the  small  stern -wheel  steamers  that  serve 
for  the  passenger  traffic  into  the  far  interior  of  the 
land,  and  a few  large  barges  piled  high  with  the 
bones  of  cattle.  Jutting  out  into  the  stream  near 
here  is  a small  mole,  from  which  point  a small  motor- 
ferry  is  wont  to  ply  to  and  fro,  and  thus  give  con- 
nection with  the  Fray  Bentos  road  upon  the  opposite 
shore.  Just  to  the  left  of  this,  anchored  in  mid- 
river,  lies  a large  houseboat,  which  serves  as  the 
headquarters  of  the  local  rowing  and  swimming  clubs. 

It  is,  of  course,  in  this  neighbourhood  that  the 
river  life  is  at  its  busiest.  Upon  the  rocky  shore 
are  groups  of  women  in  bright-coloured  dresses  busily 
employed  in  washing  household  linen  and  various 
garments — a sight,  as  a matter  of  fact,  that  may 
be  anticipated  with  certainty  upon  any  populous 
Oriental  river  bank.  The  motor-ferry,  too,  has  by 
no  means  the  monopoly  of  transit,  and  numerous 
smaller  craft  are  continually  passing  from  one 
shore  to  the  other.  Their  occupants  are  not  neces- 
sarily limited  to  the  human  species.  Here,  for 
instance,  is  a horse  being  brought  across  in  a small 
rowing  boat.  The  animal  appears  quite  uncon- 
cerned ; he  is  doubtless  accustomed  to  the  aquatic 
excursions  in  so  tiny  a skiff. 

Returning  from  the  riverside,  a peculiar  charac- 
teristic of  the  Mercedes  streets  should  attract  the 
eye,  or,  failing  this,  stumblings  will  ensue  of  a 
certainty.  On  either  side  of  the  roadway  is  an 
immense  gutter  of  over  a yard  in  depth  and  width. 
These  portentous  channels  serve  to  carry  off  the 
rainfall  of  the  heavy  storms  that  occur  from  time 


THE  SWISS  COLONY 


211 


to  time,  and  on  a dark  night  constitute  formidable 
obstacles  in  the  path  of  an  unwary  foot-passenger. 

Mercedes  possesses  a fairly  important  saladero , 
and,  in  addition,  constitutes  a centre  of  the  charcoal- 
burning industry.  A couple  of  hundred  tons  of  this 
commodity  is  frequently  shipped  from  the  place  in 
the  course  of  a month.  So  far  as  hotels  are  con- 
cerned, the  Comercio  is  distinctly  to  be  recommended. 
The  establishment  is  well  above  the  average  of  those 
that  the  ordinary  provincial  town  can  boast,  being 
clean,  airy,  and  comfortable,  and  provided,  more- 
over, with  a very  genial  host. 

Colonia  Suiza  is  situated,  some  twenty  miles  inland 
from  the  coast,  midway  between  Mercedes  and  Mon- 
tevideo. In  order  to  reach  this  very  picturesque 
spot  from  the  former  town  by  rail  it  is  necessary 
to  hark  back  to  Mai  Abrigo,  from  which  junction 
the  run  to  the  Swiss  Colony  is  a short  one.  The 
country  through  which  the  journey  is  made  is  of 
the  usual  grazing  order,  sparsely  populated,  the 
ground  being  marked  only  here  and  there  by  a typical 
Uruguayan  rancho. 

The  modest  establishments  of  this  particular 
district  are  worthy  of  special  mention.  Each  is  con- 
trived from  square  blocks  of  turf,  carefully  cut,  and 
placed  one  on  top  of  the  other  with  the  grass  edge 
downwards.  The  exterior  of  the  walls  is  left  with- 
out any  attempt  at  facing  or  adornment,  and  thus 
presents  a distinctly  crude  and  peculiar  appearance. 
The  dwelling,  however,  is  rendered  snug  and  water- 
proof by  being  plastered  from  within.  These  walls 
are  extremely  well  made,  considering  the  fact  that 
their  composition  is  not  assisted  by  any  additional 
material.  The  roof  is  made  of  wood,  cut  in  lengths, 
and  thatched  over  with  wood  or  straw. 

Household  removals  on  the  Uruguayan  campo  are 
not  necessarily  matters  of  weighty  thought,  whose 


212 


URUGUAY 


occurrence  is  to  be  anticipated  with  dread  for  many 
months  beforehand.  When  the  family  who  owns  one 
of  these  mud  ranches  decides  to  move,  the  procedure 
is  very  simple.  The  roof,  doors,  and  windows  of 
the  home  are  taken  down  and  collected.  After  which 
it  is  merely  necessary  for  the  party  to  pack  these 
along  with  them  on  horseback,  until  a suitable  site 
is  lit  upon  for  a new  erection  of  turf  into  which 
the  portable  finishing  touches  may  be  inserted.  That 
effected,  the  owners  are  once  more  at  home.  As 
for  the  discarded  dwelling,  it  remains  much  as  before, 
save  that  it  is  minus  roof,  door,  and  windows. 

Many  of  these  skeleton  huts  are  to  be  met  with 
on  the  rolling  face  of  the  country.  They  possess 
this  in  common  with  birds’  nests,  that  from  a distance 
it  is  difficult  to  ascertain  whether  they  are  occupied 
or  to  let.  If  deserted,  there  is  no  reason  why  any 
chance  family  on  the  move  should  not  take  posses- 
sion by  no  more  formal  means  than  that  of  affixing 
roof,  door,  and  windows  in  the  gaps  that  await  them. 
Many  of  these  ranchos,  by  the  way,  are  surrounded 
by  very  pretty  gardens,  and  hedged  in  by  tall  hedges 
of  geranium  and  rose. 

Once  arrived  at  the  Swiss  Colony,  however,  the 
aspect  of  the  dwellings  becomes  altogether  changed. 
The  houses  here  resemble  strongly  the  chalets  of 
the  Swiss  mountains,  for,  like  the  remaining  colonies 
of  the  kind  throughout  the  River  Plate  republics, 
the  immigrants  have  introduced  their  own  ways  and 
fashions  of  living.  Indeed,  the  existence  of  such 
bodies  provides  an  ample  testimonial  of  the  con- 
ditions of  freedom  under  which  life  is  conducted 
in  these  countries. 

The  number  and  strange  variety  of  these  self- 
contained  colonies  in  this  part  of  the  world  is 
scarcely  realised.  They  are,  of  course,  totally  distinct 
from  the  ordinary,  scattered  immigrant  dwellers. 


ON  THE  RIO  NEGRO. 


To  face  p.  212. 


THE  SWISS  COLONY 


213 


tWhen  surveyed  en  masse  the  result  is  not  a little 
extraordinary.  In  the  three  Spanish-speaking  re- 
publics of  Argentina,  Uruguay,  and  Paraguay  that, 
together  with  Southern  Bolivia,  formed  the  old  River 
Plate  provinces,  exist  distinct  and  important  settle- 
ments of  Swiss,  Austrians,  Poles,  Australians,  Welsh, 
Boers,  and  Jews,  besides  numerous  lesser  groups  of 
many  nationalities  beyond. 

Within  the  frontiers  of  each  perfect  liberty  obtains 
to  continue  existence  as  it  is  led  in  the  country 
from  which  the  immigrants  came,  and  thus  each  is 
provided  with  its  own  churches  and  institutions.  In 
the  case  of  the  more  recently  founded  it  is  almost 
as  though  a portion  of  the  foreign  land  had  been 
translated  bodily  to  South  American  soil,  while  those 
of  older  standing  have  invariably  yielded  more  or 
less  to  the  influence  of  their,  surroundings.  But  the 
choice  of  remaining  entirely  aloof,  or  of  assimilating 
the  customs  that  prevail  outside  their  own  frontiers 
lies  entirely  in  the  hands  of  the  immigrant  com- 
munities. It  is,  of  course,  only  natural  that  each 
section  should  carry  on  that  particular  branch  of 
industry  to  which  it  has  been  accustomed  in  its 
country  of  origin. 

The  Colonia  Suiza  constitutes  an  important  body, 
containing,  as  it  does,  no  less  than  four  thousand 
inhabitants.  Here  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  staple 
industry  should  be  that  of  cheese  manufacture  and 
dairy  produce.  In  addition  to  this  a]  fair  amount 
of  agriculture  is  carried  on.  The  soil  of  the  district 
is  well  adapted  to  linseed,  and  numerous  vineyards 
are  responsible  for  the  production  of  a local  wine 
of  very  fair  quality. 

Consisting  for  the  most  part  of  small  dairy  farms, 
no  regular  township  exists  in  the  colony,  although 
a small  village  has  sprung  into  being  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  railway  station,  and  three  hotels  are 


214 


URUGUAY 


distributed  at  wide  intervals  across  the  area  occu- 
pied. The  community,  first  established  in  1862  by 
the  arrival  of  seven  Swiss  families,  is  flourishing, 
and  its  members  have  clung  to  their  national  habits 
with  more  tenacity  than  is  usual. 

The  largest  and  most  important  butter  factory  in 
the  place  produces  in  the  springtime  a daily  quantity 
of  no  less  than  a ton  of  butter.  Its  proprietor, 
ere  he  emigrated,  played  the  role  of  a ; small  shop- 
keeper in  his  own  country.  His  house  was  burned 
to  the  ground,  but,  fortunately  for  himself,  the 
property  was  insured.  He  employed  the  money  de- 
rived from  this  source  for  the  purpose  of  the  voyage 
to  South  America,  and,  arrived  at  the  Colonia  Suiza, 
he  found  employment  in  the  carrying  round  of  the 
milk.  In  a very  short  while  he  was  employing  others 
to  perform  this  service  for  himself,  and  is  now  a 
wealthy  man,  thus  affording  one  more  example  of 
those  rapid  rises  from  poverty  to  riches  that  are 
so  characteristic  of  South  America. 

The  general  aspects  of  this  colony  are  peculiarly 
agreeable.  Situated  in  one  of  the  most  pleasant 
districts  of  a smiling  land,  it  is  well  watered  and 
timbered.  The  verdure  of  the  place,  moreover,  is 
enhanced  by  the  numerous  green  lanes  that  intersect 
it.  Indeed,  no  more  delightful  situation  could  be 
imagined  than  that  occupied  by  many  of  the  chalets 
of  Swiss  design. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 


COLONIA 

An  historical  town — Rarity  of  ruins  in  the  River  Plate  countries — Speci- 
mens at  Colonia — Situation  of  the  town — Past  antagonism  between 
the  capitals  of  Argentina  and  Uruguay — Present  aspect  of  Colonia 
compared  with  the  former — A sleepy  hollow — Periodical  awakenings 
of  the  place — Impressions  of  the  old  town — Its  colouring  and 
compactness — Fortifications  of  the  city  of  discord — A warlike  history 
-—Nations  that  have  warred  together  at  this  spot — The  reddest  corner 
in  a bfoodstained  land — Surroundings  of  the  town — Crumbling 
masonry— A medley  of  old  and  new — A Colonia  street — Old-time 
scenes  of  peace  and  war — Some  pictures  of  the  past — Cannon  as  road 
posts — The  Plaza — An  episode  in  the  wars  with  Portugal — The 
eternity  of  romance — Real  de  San  Carlo — A modern  watering-place 
— Its  buildings — The  bullring — A gigantic  pelota-court — Popularity 
of  the  spot — A miniature  tramway — Attractions  of  Real  de  San  Carlo — 
Vegetation  on  the  sands — A curious  colour  scheme — Pleasant  lanes — 
Buenos  Aires  as  a supplier  of  tourists. 


The  small  town  of  Colonia  stands  quite  alone  in 
many  respects.  Not  as  regards  situation,  climate, 
and  a reputation  as  a pleasure  resort.  In  all  these 
three  the  spot  is  especially  favoured  ; yet  in  each 
of  these  it  possesses  a number  of  formidable  rivals 
along  the  Uruguayan  coast.  Excursionists  flock  to 
Colonia,  it  is  true,  but  such  flighty  nomads  are  more 
concerned  with  beaches  and  bathing  than  with  the 
subtler  and  deeper  interests  of  the  spot. 

To  the  historian  and  to  the  antiquarian  Colonia 
represents  a gem.  It  must  be  admitted  that  the 
values  of  such  treasures  go  strictly  by  comparison. 
Uruguay  is  rich  in  the  amethyst  and  topaz,  but  poor 

215 


216 


URUGUAY 


in  architectural  ruins.  Indeed,  these  romantic 
features  are  distressingly  — or  pleasingly  — rare 
throughout  all  the  lands  that  made  up  the 
provinces  of  the  old  River  Plate.  So  far  as  I 
am  aware,  almost  the  sole  examples  of  any  real 
antiquity  are  to  be  met  with  in  the  Jesuit  ruins  of 
Paraguay  and  the  Misiones  Province,  and  in  the  few 
fragmentary  Inca  relics  upon  the  Andes  slopes. 
Beyond  these  there  is  Colonia.  Therefore  if  the 
gem  lack  the  full  brilliance  of  some  of  the  specimens 
that  an  older  continent  can  produce,  its  importance 
must  not  be  under-estimated,  since  it  possesses  the 
rare  merit  of  being  all  but  unique  in  its  own  country. 

From  the  Uruguayan  bank  of  the  great  river 
Colonia  faces  Buenos  Aires.  The  one  is  not  visible 
from  the  other,  since  almost  forty  miles  separate 
the  two  cities — a distance  that  has  frequently  been 
found  too  short  for  the  peace  of  mind  of  both. 
For,  although  they  now  sit  on  their  respective  banks 
in  undisturbed  peace,  the  past  has  only  too  many 
instances  to  show  of  how  the  pair  opposed  each 
other  with  an  active  hostility  that  worked  its  share 
in  the  building  up  of  the  warlike  history  of  Colonia. 

The  present  fate  of  Colonia  is  much  akin  to  that 
of  many  of  those  spots  that  serve  as  the  decayed 
shells  of  old-time  battles  and  terrific  alarums.  In 
short,  it  is  a sleepy  hollow.  There  are  certainly 
times  when  a large  river  steamer  comes  to  rest  for 
a while  against  its  wooden  jetty,  and  disgorges  a 
crowd  of  tourists  who  wander  aimlessly  about  the 
quaint  streets.  But  such  spells  are  short,  since  the 
interests  of  the  spot  can  compare  in  the  minds  of 
very  few  of  such  visitors  with  the  great  bullring 
and  pelota-court,  recently  erected  some  half-dozen 
miles  up-stream,  to  which  they  are  on  their  way. 
Thus  the  place  has  barely  time  to  shake  its  old 
walls,  and  yawn  with  its  blank  windows,  wondering 


COLONIA 


217 


at  this  sudden  new  life  that  has  sprung*  up  within 
it,  when  the  spasm  has  passed  away,  and  Colonia 
sinks  back  from  its  semi-conscious  state  into  full 
slumber  again. 

The  first  impressions  of  the  old  town,  when  viewed 
from  the  river,  present  a rather  strange  medley  of 
brown,  yellow,  grey,  white,  pink,  and  green.  Thrown 
together  as  abruptly  as  this,  the  colour  scheme  doubt- 
less sounds  perplexing.  Yet  in  reality  the  tints 
blend  with  consummate  harmony.  The  brown  is 
rendered  by  the  rocks  that  hem  in  the  little  bays 
and  inlets  of  the  foreground,  while  the  lichen  that 
clings  to  the  stone  accounts  for  a strangely  brilliant 
yellow.  The  grey  is  produced  by  the  most  important 
asset  of  the  town,  the  ruined  walls  and  battlements 
of  the  fortifications  that  pile  themselves  sullenly  upon 
the  rocks  along  the  river  bank,  penetrating  the  waters 
at  many  points.  The  pink  and  white  gleam  very 
softly  from  the  more  modern  houses  in  the  back- 
ground that  mingle  with  the  old,  crumbling  erec- 
tions of  grey,  while  at  close  intervals  the  verdure 
of  trees  and  shrubs  sprouts  out  thickly  from  amongst 
the  masonry.  To  conclude  with  all  this  colour,  so 
far  as  possible  at  one  fell  swoop,  the  town  is  domi- 
nated by  a brilliant  white  lighthouse  shaft  and  the 
twin  red  towers  of  a modern  church. 

Undoubtedly  one  of  the  most  curious  effects  for 
which  Colonia  is  responsible  is  that  of  its  compact- 
ness. There  is  scarcely  a town  in  Uruguay,  or  in 
Argentina  either,  whose  outskirts  do  not  straggle  far 
away  from  the  centre  into  the  Campo.  To  one  who 
has  inevitably  become  accustomed  to  these  architec- 
tural loose -ends  the  accurately  defined  boundaries 
of  the  riverside  town  are  not  a little  striking.  The 
reason  is  a very  simple  one.  In  the  old  days  the 
city  of  discord  was  completely  surrounded  by  forti- 
fications and,  since  it  has  performed  the  feat — almost 


218 


URUGUAY 


unique  in  the  country — of  failing  to  grow  in  extent 
since  that  time,  its  original  abrupt  boundaries  have 
remained.  The  result,  from  an  artistic  point  of  view, 
is  undoubtedly  far  more  imposing  than  that  produced 
by  the  stress  of  modern  development. 

Colonia  is  not  a town  to  be  skimmed  over  lightly. 
It  is  worthy  of  almost  as  careful  a reconnoitring  as 
it  has  frequently  suffered  in  the  past.  For  the  place 
can  boast  of  half  a dozen  regular  sieges,  and  pitched 
battles,  sallies,  and  skirmishes  galore.  Indians  and 
Spaniards,  Spaniards  and  Portuguese,  Uruguayans 
and  Spaniards,  Uruguayans  and  Portuguese — all 
these  have  fought  together  here  on  countless 
occasions,  and  yet  the  list  of  the  warring  com- 
panies is  not  ended.  The  red  ponchos  of  Urquiza’s 
Gauchos  have  charged  up  to  the  grey  walls,  staining 
the  brown  earth  crimson  as  they  went  ; buccaneers 
of  all  nations  have  come  and  gone,  and  the  scarlet 
of  a British  garrison  has  gleamed  out  against  the 
background  of  stone.  Colonia  is  the  reddest  spot  of 
all  in  a sadly  bloodstained  land. 

But,  however  much  the  aftermath  of  battles  may 
brood,  the  aspect  of  the  place  is  as  fair  as  could 
be  desired.  Just  opposite  its  site  are  the  first  green 
islands  of  the  river,  the  oceanward  outposts  of  the 
lengthy  series  that  rest  in  the  midst  of  the  waters 
upstream.  This  shore  of  the  mainland  itself  is 
picturesque  in  another  fashion.  Bright  semicircles 
and  crescents  of  sand  fringe  the  rocks  of  the  in- 
numerable small  bays.  Upon  the  natural  boulders, 
and  ledges,  and  heaps  of  masonry  above  are  clusters 
of  green  leaves  starred  with  blossoms.  Here  and 
there  a growth  of  more  artificial  kind  is  spread  upon 
the  stone  ; for  the  sole  figures  upon  the  foreshore 
are  those  of  two  washerwomen,  busily  engaged 
amongst  the  pools,  whose  variegated  harvest  is 
increasing  in  area  as  it  is  spread  out  to  dry. 


COLONIA  : RUINED  FORTRESS  WALL. 


A CAMPO  GRAVEYARD. 


To  face  page  218. 


'■sa 


. 


COLONIA 


219 


In  places  the  surface  of  the  old  masonry  is  level 
and  wide  ; in  others  it  is  necessary  to  leap  from 
point  to  point  just  as  it  is  in  the  case  of  the  rocks 
below.  Scrambling  and  walking  thus  for  several 
hundred  yards,  the  way  lies  past  a collection  of 
ruined  houses,  the  massive  walls  of  which  prick 
upwards  in  gaunt  desolation.  Beyond  these  again 
is  a narrow  passage,  paved  principally  by  the  chance 
falling  of  the  masonry,  that  leads  into  one  of  the 
actual  streets  of  the  town. 

-The  medley  here  is  fascinating  from  the  mere 
force  of  its  quaintness.  The  first  houses  that  flank 
the  slender  thoroughfare  as  it  winds  its  way  uphill 
are  a few  pink  erections,  fairly  modern,  with  windows 
plainly  barred,  and  open  doorways,  through  which  is 
visible  the  foliage  that  decorates  the  patio  within. 
Side  by  side  with  these  is  a building  of  quite  another 
type,  an  old  grey  house,  stately  and  imposing,  though 
now  little  beyond  a shell  of  ruins.  Its  front  is  thickly 
set  with  the  remnants  of  graceful  balconies,  and  with 
broken  shields  and  coats  of  arms.  Upon  the  massive 
doorway  is  an  ancient  bronze  knocker  in  the  form 
of  a human  hand.  But  the  hapless  instrument  has 
been  silent  now  for  many  a generation,  since  at  the 
back  of  the  doorway  itself  is  nothing  beyond  a con- 
fusion of  tumbled  stone  into  whose  crevices  the  roots 
of  the  intruding  shrubs  and  flowers  have  pressed 
themselves. 

The  street  is  quite  deserted  ; the  temptation  to 
raise  the  bronze  hand  and  bang  out  the  echoes  is 
almost  irresistible.  It  is  certain  that  one  could  arouse 
nothing  beyond  the  ghosts  of  the  past.  Yet  the 
answer  to  such  an  appeal  might  prove  a little  too 
intense  for  the  modern  tranquillity  of  mind.  Confined 
to  the  days  of  peace,  the  vision  would  be  well  enough. 
The  house,  the  walls,  the  patio,  the  fretwork  of  the 
balconies,  the  carving  of  the  coats  of  arms — all  these 


220 


URUGUAY 


would  be  intact  and  hung  about  with  humanity.  In 
obedience  to  the  most  commonplace  demands  of  the 
all -pervading  romance,  breeched  men,  whose  long- 
draped  cloaks  hid  the  lace  and  buckles  of  their 
costume,  would  send  out  their  voices  and  the  tinklings 
of  their  guitars  towards  the  senoritas,  whose  soft' 
eyes  glowed  beneath  a tremendous  headgear,  and 
who  wore  their  filmy  wrappings  and  short  skirts  with 
true  Iberian  grace. 

Within  the  courtyard  the  negro  slaves  would 
lounge  at  their  ease,  while  near  them  would  repose 
the  great  guardian  dogs  of  the  house.  Now  and 
again  would  sound  a heavy  rumble  from  the  street 
without  that  signified  the  advent  of  visitors  in  a] 
cumbrous  coach  of  state — an  interruption  that  would 
still  the  notes  of  voice  and  guitar  string,  and  that 
would  excite  the  negro  attendants  into  sudden  life 
and  the  dogs  into  a delirium  of  barking.  After 
which  many  grave  bows  and  deep  curtseyings  would 
prelude  the  quiet  ceremony  of  entertainment. 

But  if  instead  of  this  peaceful  scene  the  wrong 
half  of  the  past  were  to  appear  ! For  there  were 
times  when  the  heavy  booming  and  uproar  drew  ever 
nearer  from  without,  and  then  the  faces  of  the 
senoritas  as  they  peered  through  the  elaborate  bars 
were  ashy  pale.  There  were  moments,  too,  when 
the  last  doubts  had  turned  to  $ bitter  certainty,  when 
the  forms  of  fleeing  men  passed  the  house,  and  those 
of  others,  who  stayed,  reddened  the  ground  before  the 
door.  And  last  of  all  ! — the  apparition  of  the  strange 
men  in  hostile  garb,  the  lust  of  slaughter  in  their 
eyes  as  they  rushed  on,  making  another  place  of  the 
once  familiar  street.  Thirsting  for  blood,  hungry 
for  booty,  and  for  all  things  beyond — the  cheeks  of 
the  shuddering  senoritas  have  not  paled  without 
reason.  After  all,  perhaps  it  is  better  to  leave 
undisturbed  the  knocker  upon  the  old  door. 


COLONIA 


221 


Such  mental  apparitions,  moreover,  could  be 
multiplied  indefinitely,  for  there  are  a dozen  houses 
of  similar  design,  if  of  varied  ruinous  importance,  in 
the  town.  Indeed,  the  place  breathes  strongly  of 
the  past.  At  a street  corner  here  and  there  is  an 
ancient  cannon,  buried  muzzle  upwards  into  the 
ground,  that  serves  to  fend  off  from  the  sidewalk 
such  wheeled  traffic  as  exists.  After  a while  the 
narrow  street  falls  away,  and  the  wide  sweep  of  the 
plaza  extends  to  the  front. 

The  place  was  once  the  site  of  a rather  peculiar 
feat  of  frontier  delimitation.  The  occasion  was  that 
of  one  of  the  numerous  cessions  by  treaty  to  Portugal 
of  the  town  that  the  Spaniards  were  wont  to  win  by 
force  of  arms.  On  receiving  the  order  from  the  Court 
of  Spain  to  evacuate  the  province  in  favour  of  the 
temporarily  reconciled  enemy  the  staunch  old  Spanish 
Governor  lost  patience.  The  town,  he  knew  full 
well,  he  must  surrender,  but  he  refused  to  give  up 
more  even  at  the  command  of  his  royal  master.  So 
he  raised  the  muzzle  of  a cannon  in  the  plaza,  fired 
a shot  to  right  and  left,  and  told  the  Portuguese 
that  the  land  within  the  range  of  the  balls  was  theirs, 
but  no  more.  And  with  this  they  had  to  be  content. 

There  are  now  no  cannon  in  the  plaza,  where, 
indeed,  the  wild  shrubs  and  grasses  alone  thrive. 
Passing  across  it,  the  river  is  approached  again,  for 
Colonia  covers  a small  promontory.  Ere  reaching 
the  water  on  the  farther  side,  however,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  pass  by  far  the  most  imposing  ruin  in  the 
place.  By  the  side  of  the  white  lighthouse  tower 
a tall  fragment  of  grey  fortress  wall  rears  itself 
aloft.  Some  four  feet  thick  throughout,  its  crumbling 
embrasures  are  strongly  lit  up  by  the  blue  sky 
behind. 

From  this  point  the  ground  slopes  abruptly  down- 
wards towards  the  shore.  Here  are  more  rocks,  more 


222 


URUGUAY 


mounds  of  ruined  masonry,  more  washerwomen — and 
the  forms  of  a girl  and  of  a man  seated  apart 
from  the  rest  upon  the  stones.  The  girl  is  flaming 
in  all  the  pride  of  red  skirt  and  kerchief  and  yellow 
blouse.  For  all  I know  the  latter  garment  may 
not  technically  be  admissible  within  the  strict  cate- 
gory of  blouses,  but,  failing  a more  intimate  know- 
ledge, it  must  pass  as  something  similar  \ By 
comparison  with  the  very  brilliant  butterfly,  the  man 
looms  a dusky  moth,  whose  only  glitter  lies  in  the 
great,  round,  silver  spurs  that  protrude  from  his 
high  heels.  Yet  the  business  of  the  pair  is  the  same 
as  ever  ! Though  wrought  out  more  frequently  when 
Colonia  really  lived,  it  obtains  still  amongst  the 
ruins.  It  is  comforting  to  reflect  that  even  the  most 
simple  of  these  rural  chains  of  the  affections  con- 
tinues with  links  far  less  unbroken  than  those 
of  war  ! 

Some  three  miles  distant  from  Colonia,  and 
situated  likewise  upon  the  banks  of  the  river,  is  Real 
de  San  Carlo.  Although  such  close  neighbours,  it 
would  be  difficult  to  find  two  spots  that  differed  more 
widely  from  each  other.  Real  de  San  Carlo  is  a 
mushroom  of  a place  that  has  only  known  existence 
for  some  two  or  three  years.  Since  it  is  planned 
as  a pleasure  resort  pure  and  simple,  the  nature  of 
Real  de  San  Carlo  is  to  a certain  extent  artificial, 
and  the  brand-new  buildings  have  yet  to  be  toned 
down  by  the  softening  process  of  age. 

So  far  the  new  bathing-place  is  deficient  in  the 
private  dwelling-houses  and  chalets  that  characterise 
the  majority  of  such  spots.  On  the  arrival  of  the 
steamer  at  the  imposing  pier,  the  eye  is  arrested  at 
once  by  the  sight  of  two  very  large  buildings,  and 
by  that  of  one  of  a more  moderate  size.  Beyond 
these  there  is  little  in  the  way  of  architectural  de- 
velopment, with  the  insignificant  exception  of  the 
cottages  that  house  the  labourers  upon  the  place. 


i 


COLONIA 


223 


Of  the  two  great  buildings  the  bullring  is  the 
more  notable.  Indeed,  the  enormous  circular  erection 
of  white  concrete  is  visible  for  a distance  of  many 
miles  in  all  directions.  One  side  of  the  ground 
beneath,  sheltered  by  the  rising  spread  of  tiers  that 
hold  the  seats,  is  occupied  by  an  open-air  cafe,  while 
the  appointments  within  are  of  the  usual  order  to. 
be  met  with  in  bullrings.  It  is  here  that  the 
periodical  bullfights  are  held,  and  it  is  here,  more- 
over, that  many  of  the  noted  Spanish  fighters 
perform. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  bullring  is  the  pelota- 
court,  which  is  only  just  now  being  completed,  in 
which  the  famous  Basque  game  is  to  be  played. 
This  is  likewise  constructed  of  white  concrete,  and, 
although  its  magnitude  cannot  rival  that  of  the  bull- 
ring,  it  is  of  an  amazing  size  for  a building  of  the 
kind,  holding  galleries  above,  as  it  does,  that  must 
be  capable  of  seating  several  thousand  spectators. 
Compared  with  these  two  tremendous  affairs,  the  hotel 
is  of  modest  dimensions  and  of  unpretentious  ap- 
pearance. Nevertheless,  were  it  to  stand  apart  from 
such  overwhelming  neighbours,  it  would  doubtless 
appear  imposing  enough. 

Real  de  San  Carlo  is  well  equipped  to  cope  with 
the  crowds  of  visitors  that  the  steamers  already  bring 
to  its  shore  ; it  does  things,  in  fact,  in  a certain 
elaborate  style  of  its  own.  A narrow-gauge  steam 
tramway  runs  between  the  jetty  and  the  bullring, 
although  the  distance  does  not  exceed  a quarter  of 
a mile,  and  behind  the  mipiature  engine  a number 
of  cars  are  in  waiting,  each  containing  a row  of 
seats  facing  outwards  on  either  side.  At  the 
moment  of  the  visit  the  bull -fighting  itself  is  under- 
going a temporary  lull — a fact  that,  from  one’s  own 
point  of  view,  is  very  little  to  be  regretted.  So 
the  tramcars,  crowded  now,  roll  merrily  onwards  to 


224 


URUGUAY 


a ring  devoid  of  espadas,  bulls,  horses,  and  blood, 
and  for  the  majority  of  the  tourists  the  chief  busi- 
ness of  the  day  is  confined  to  the  precincts  of  the 
cafe  in  the  shade  of  the  great  building. 

Apart  from  these  more  artificial  attractions.  Real 
de  San  Carlo  will  undoubtedly  prove  popular  as  a 
bathing  resort.  The  fine  white  sands  and  rippling 
waters  here  possess  an  invaluable  auxiliary  in  the 
delightful  air  with  which  the  place  is  blessed.  In 
this  springtime  of  the  year,  moreover,  the  sands  them- 
selves are  decorated  in  rather  an  unusual  fashion. 
From  them  sprout  masses  of  silver-white,  thick,  silky 
leaves,  and  stems  that  support  blossoms  that  exactly 
resemble  small  sunflowers.  The  effect  that  the  great 
stretches  of  these  present  is  distinctly  striking. 
Thickly  spangling  the  white  sand  is  a silver  glow, 
topped  by  the  yellow  of  the  blossoms  above — a colour 
scheme  that  gives  a strangely  fairylike  and  unreal 
impression.  As  though  to  lend  a touch  of  warmer 
colour,  thousands  of  butterflies,  all  of  a variety  of 
the  painted -lady  species,  are  hovering  in  clouds  about 
the  blossoms. 

Just  inland,  where  the  undulations  of  the  real 
country  begin,  the  lanes  are  ablaze  with  passion- 
flower and  honeysuckle — but  the  steamer  is  whistling 
impatiently  in  the  distance,  and  the  tourists  are  flock- 
ing back  to  the  tramcars.  It  is  time  to  return,  and 
to  mingle  with  the  crowd  once  more,  the  great 
majority  of  which  are  returning  to  Buenos  Aires. 
For  it  is  on  the  inhabitants  of  this  city,  within  a 
couple  of  hours’  steam  across  the  river,  that  Real 
de  San  Carlo  depends  for  its  popularity,  and  conse- 
quent welfare* 


CHAPTER  XIX 


THE  URUGUAY  RIVER 

A great  waterway — The  river  compared  with  the  Parana — Some  questions 
of  navigation — The  lower  stretch  of  the  Uruguay — The  stream  from 
Montevideo  upwards — Montevideo — The  docks — An  imposing  array 
of  Mihanovich  craft — Breadth  of  the  river — Aspects  of  the  banks — 
Various  types  of  vessels — The  materials  of  their  cargoes — The 
meeting  of  sister  steamers — The  etiquette  of  salutations — Fray  Bentos 
— The  Lemco  factory  and  port — A notable  spot — The  paradise  of  the 
eater — The  islands  of  Uruguay — Method  of  their  birth  and  growth 
— The  responsibility  of  leaves  and  branches — Uncertainty  of  island 
life — The  effects  of  flood  and  current — Sub-tropical  bergs — The 
vehicles  of  wild  creatures — A jaguar  visitation  in  Montevideo — 
Narrowing  of  the  stream — Paysandu — The  home  of  ox-tongues — The 
second  commercial  town  of  the  Republic — Some  features  of  the  place 
— Variety  of  the  landscape — The  Mesa  deArtigas — An  historical  table- 
land— A monument  to  the  national  hero — Salto — A striking  town — 
Pleasant  landscape — The  Salto  falls — The  ending  of  the  lower 
Uruguay — A rocky  bed — Some  minerals  of  Salto — Alteration  in  the 
colour  of  the  water — The  beauty  of  the  upper  Uruguay. 

As  a waterway  the  Uruguay  River  is  of  infinite 
service  to  the  Republic  whose  western  coastline  it 
serves.  It  is  true  that,  compared  with  the  Parana, 
the  stream  suffers  somewhat  both  as  regards  length 
and  navigable  facilities.  Both  rivers  have  much  in 
common,  in  that  either  has  its  source  in  the  mountain 
ranges  that  fringe  the  coast  of  Brazil,  and  either 
flows  first  to  the  west,  then  southwards  until  the 
junction  of  the  pair  forms  the  broad  River  Plate. 
But,  whereas  the  Parana  rises  in  latitude  22°  south 
the  first  waters  of  the  Uruguay  do  not  come  into 


226 


URUGUAY 


being  until  28°  south.  The  latter,  in  consequence, 
has  to  content  itself  with  a course  of  a thousand 
miles,  rather  less  than  half  the  length  of  its  neigh- 
bour. 

The  lower  stretch  of  the  Uruguay  holds  an  obstacle 
to  navigation  that  is  unknown  in  the  corresponding 
waters  of  the  Parand.  At  Salto,  some  two  hundred 
miles  above  the  mouth,  falls  extend  from  the  one 
bank  to  the  other,  and  thus  bar  the  passage  of  all 
vessels.  Above  this  place,  however,  is  the  starting- 
point  for  the  lighter  draught  steamers  that  continue 
their  northward  course  for  many  hundreds  of  miles. 

As  though  to  compensate  for  the  barrier,  the  first 
two  hundred  miles  of  the  Uruguay  represent  a par- 
ticularly noble  highway  of  waters,  far  broader  and 
more  imposing,  indeed,  than  the  equivalent  stretch  of 
the  Parana.  Ocean-going  vessels  here  penetrate  to 
Paysandu,  and  beyond  it  to  the  Lemco  port  of  Colon 
on  the  Argentine  shore,  while  the  really  magnificent 
steamers  of  the  River  King,  Mihanovich,  produce 
their  finest  specimens  to  ply  to  and  fro  here.  But, 
as  the  banks  of  the  stream  contain  not  only  some  of 
the  most  fertile  lands  in  the  Republic  but  much  of 
interest  beyond,  it  is  worth  while  to  follow  its  course, 
beginning  at  Montevideo  itself,  which,  as  a matter 
of  fact,  is  somewhat  to  anticipate  the  waters  of  the 
true  Uruguay. 

By  the  quayside  of  the  capital  are  grouped  three 
or  four  of  the  Mihanovich  craft,  large,  two-funnelled 
vessels  with  an  imposing  array  of  decks  surmounted 
by  an  unusually  spacious  promenade  that  crowns  the 
whole.  One  of  these  is  bound  for  Salto — or  rather 
for  the  Argentine  town  of  Concordia  that  lies  opposite 
that  port — but  just  now  it  is  not  advisable  to  be  tied 
hard  and  fast  to  her  broad  decks,  since  she  must  call 
at  Buenos  Aires  on  her  way,  and  at  many  other  spots 
outside  Uruguay  and  the  scope  of  this  book. 


THE  URUGUAY  RIVER 


227 


We  will  therefore  perform  the  strange  feat  of 
making  a break  in  the  trip  ere  it  is  begun.  In  any 
case  it  is  necessary  to  leave  the  quay  over  whose 
broad,  paved  surface  of  reclaimed  land  the  cabs 
are  rattling,  and  where  the  policeman  and  porters 
stand,  and  where,  moreover,  a strong  group  of  Salva- 
tionists are  singing  lustily,  surrounded  by  a motley 
but  attentive  group  such  as  the  precincts  of  a port 
attract.  But  the  graceful  Triton  shall  churn  her  way 
out  into  the  open  without  us,  since  we  will  cling  so 
far  as  possible  to  the  Uruguayan  shore,  forging 
upwards  through  the  yellowing  waters,  to  halt  at 
Sauce  with  its  willow-covered  lands  and  Colonia  with 
its  rocky  beach,  until  Carmelo  is  passed,  and  at 
Nueva  Palmira  the  River  Uruguay  has  been  fairly 
entered.  Even  then,  however,  it  is  necessary  to 
accept  the  fact  more  or  less  on  trust,  and  to  confide 
in  the  accuracy  of  the  map  rather  than  in  that  of 
the  eyesight.  For  the  faint  line  that  has  recently 
appeared  on  the  horizon  to  the  left  might  as  well 
stand  for  a distant  streak  upon  the  waters  as  for  the 
low-lying  Argentine  shore  that  it  actually  represents. 

To  the  right,  the  Uruguayan  bank  is  well  defined. 
Here  the  undulations  of  the  land  swell  boldly  out 
from  the  edge  of  the  river,  while  in  many  places 
rocks  and  boulders  strew  the  sloping  foreshore  as 
though  to  accentuate  the  frontier  between  stream 
and  land  that  is  so  faintly  defined  upon  the  opposite 
coast.  Here  and  there  the  verdure  of  the  hills  is 
broken  by  the  darker  green  bands  of  the  eucalyptus 
plantations,  through  which  from  time  to  time  gleam 
the  white  walls  of  an  estancia-house.  At  intervals 
the  chimneys  of  a saladero  prick  upwards  from  the 
nearer  neighbourhood  of  the  bank.  About  these 
centres  of  their  doom  the  speck-like  figures  of  the 
cattle  dot  the  surrounding  pastures,  grazing  in 
fortunate  ignorance  of  their  end. 


228  URUGUAY 

The  traffic  upon  the  river  itself  is  by  no  means 
inconsiderable.  Native  topsail  schooners  laden  with 
jerked  beef,  fruit,  and  timber  come  gliding  serenely 
down  the  stream  beneath  their  spread  of  sail.  One 
of  these  craft  is  especially  indicative  of  the  main 
industry  of  the  land.  The  vessel  is  laden  as  high  as 
the  booms  will  permit  with  horns  of  cattle,  the 
bleaching  mounds  of  which  must  represent  the 
sacrifice  of  many  thousands  of  animals.  There  are 
smart  Government  tugs,  too,  that  hold  the  official 
guardians  of  the  mighty  stream,  and  great  dredgers 
of  queer  and  monstrous  shape  that  steam  slowly 
along  to  find  an  anchorage  where  the  bottom  is 
shallow,  and  there  remorselessly  to  bite  out  mouth- 
fuls from  the  unduly  lofty  bed. 

At  rarer  intervals  appear  the  ocean-going  craft 
and  sailing  vessels.  It  would  be  safe  to  wager  that 
there  is  not  one  of  those  passing  down-stream  that 
is  not  laden  with  some  portions  or  other  of  the  bodies 
bequeathed  to  humanity  by  the  unconsulted  yet 
generous  bovine  souls.  Nevertheless  the  exact 
species  of  cargo  would  be  more  difficult  to  predict. 
It  might  be  beef  itself,  or  hides  that  will  make 
leather  upon  which  to  sit  while  consuming  the  meat, 
or  horns  which  will  provide  handles  for  the  neces- 
sary complement  of  knives,  or  indeed  many  other 
products  useful  for  similar  purposes.  There  never 
was  such  a creature  as  the  ox  for  the  provision  of  a 
variety  of  articles  that  all  eloquently  urge  the  benefit 
of  his  d\eath  ! 

A tall  and  majestic  structure  has  come  into  sight 
from  round  a bend  in  the  stream  now,  and  is  sweeping 
rapidly  downwards.  With  grey  hull,  white  upper- 
works  about  her  rows  of  decks,  and  twin  black 
funnels  to  cap  the  whole,  she  is  one  of  the  proud 
fleet  of  steamers  that  ply  throughout  the  entire  system 
of  the  great  rivers.  If  the  vessel  upon  which  you 


THE  URUGUAY  RIVER 


229 


may  be  found  bears  a corresponding  M upon  its 
funnel — which  in  the  case  of  a passenger  craft  may 
be  taken  as  a practical  certainty— you  may  be  assured 
that  you  will  not  be  passed  without  recognition,  even 
if  sheltered  by  a mere  paltry  stern-wheeler  that 
is  bound  for  one  of  the  small  tributary  streams. 
Combining  affability  with  size,  the  whale  will  blow 
out  three  deep  roars  of  salute  from  its  great  horn, 
that  will  be  echoed  by  a like  number  of  shrill  notes 
from  the  treble  whistle  of  the  minnow.  Such  is  the 
etiquette  throughout  the  entire  length  of  the  rivers. 
The  six  blows  are  sounding  throughout  the  day  from 
the  tropics  of  Brazil  downwards  to  where  the  La 
Plata  and  the  ocean  meet. 

Upon  the  right-hand  side  Fray  Bentos  has  come 
into  view,  marked  in  the  first  place  by  a great 
collection  of  tall  black  chimneys  glistening  in  the 
sun.  Beneath  is  verdure,  and  massive  white  build- 
ings, and  streets  of  dwelling-houses,  while  to  the 
front  is  the  Lemeo  port  with  a small  forest  of  masts 
rising  from  its  waters.  The  place,  in  a double 
sense,  represents  the  very  incarnation  of  Uruguay’s 
trade.  A greedy  spot  that  swallows  live  cattle  by 
tens  of  thousands  to  render  them'  up  again  in  the 
pathetically  diminished  form  of  extract  ! Even  now 
the  odour  of  soup  floats  heavily  in  the  air  from  across 
a mile  of  water — a,  proof  that  Fray  Bentos  is  busily 
occupied  in  turning  out  its  brown  rivers  of  fluid. 

The  factory,  the  most  notable  in  the  country,  is 
indeed  strongly  symbolical  of  the  land  where  starva- 
tion in  ordinary  circumstances  of  peace  has  never 
yet  been  known.  Havana  may  be  the  paradise  of  the 
smoker,  Epernay  that  of  the  champagne  lover  ; but 
the  eater’s  heaven  is  undoubtedly  situated  in  Uruguay, 
a paradise  in  which  the  spirits  of  departed  and  honest 
butchers  might  well  revel  in  perfect  joy. 

Just  above  Fray  Bentos  the  islands  dot  the  river 


230 


URUGUAY 


more  plentifully  than  in  almost  any  other  part  of  the 
great  stream.  As  is  the  case  on  the  Parana,  it  is 
difficult  enough  at  times  to  distinguish  between  these 
and  the  true  bank  on  the  Argentine  shore  ; both  are 
equally  lowly  and  each  covered  with  the  same  density 
of  willows  and  native  scrub.  Amongst  these  larger 
islands,  however,  whose  surface  may  comprise  several 
square  miles,  are  numerous  smaller  pieces  of  land, 
and  some  quite  diminutive  specimens  that  can  lay 
claim  to  no  more  than  a few  yards  of  area.  These 
are  baby  islands — young  territories  that  have  only  just 
succeeded  in  raising  their  heads  above  water.  For 
an  island  here  is  conceived,  grows,  and  dies  in  a 
fashion  that  is  vegetable  rather  than  purely  earthy. 
The  fact  is  not  really  curious,  seeing  that  vegetation 
is  directly  concerned  in  their  birth. 

The  conception  of  one  of  these  is  evident  even  now. 
A tangle  of  the  thick  leaves  of  the  camelota — the 
water  plant  with  its  mauve  hyacinth-like  flower — 
has  in  its  downward  floating  course  fouled  the  earth 
of  a shallow  in  mid-stream.  The  arrested  clump  of 
green  has  already  inveigled  other  objects  to  keep 
it  company  in  its  trap.  A few  sticks  and  branches 
and  tufts  of  grass  are  already  fast  in  the  embrace 
of  the  powerful  stems  and  green  leaves,  while  at 
the  end  that  faces  the  stream  the  water-driven  sand 
has  risen  at  the  obstacle,  and  has  shyly  protruded  a 
small  round  hump  or  two  above  the  ripples.  The 
life  of  the  thing  is  as  uncertain  as  that  of  a seedling 
or  of  a human  child.  Under  favourable  conditions 
it  will  grow  and  solidify  year  by  year  until  from1  the 
few  leaves  and  sticks  will  have  extended  some  square 
miles  of  tree -covered  soil.  On  the  other  hand,  it  may 
be  swept  remorselessly  away  in  its  earliest  days  ere 
the  tentative  formation  has  had  time  to  secure  suffi- 
ciently firm  hold  of  the  earth. 

In  any  case  the  life  of  these  islands  is  comparatively 


ON  THE  URUGUAY  RIVER. 


A URUGUAYAN  STREAM. 


To  face  p.  230. 


\ 


THE  URUGUAY  RIVER 


231 


short,  and  fresh  floods  and  currents  are  forming  some 
and  destroying  others  all  the  while.  During  these 
periods  of  flood  many  of  them  would  seem  possessed 
of  the  characteristics  of  icebergs.  Detached  by  the 
irresistible  force  of  the  currents,  great  fragments 
of  the  vegetation  and  camelota  plant  that  cling  to 
their  sides  go  swirling  down  the  stream.  Though 
they  can  boast  no  polar  bears,  they  are  occasionally 
freighted  with  other  beasts  whose  neighbourhood  is 
equally  undesirable.  On  such  occasions  snakes  and 
many  four-footed  specimens  of  northern  creatures 
form  the  unwilling  tenants  of  these  frail  rafts  of 
vegetation.  It  is  said  that  many  years  ago  one  of 
unusually  large  size  struck  the  shore  of  Montevideo 
itself,  disgorging  four  jaguars,  who  entered  the  town 
as  much  to  their  own  terror  as  to  that  of  the 
inhabitants. 

With  Fray  Bentos  once  left  in  the  rear,  the  river 
becomes  distinctly  narrowed,  and,  where  no  islands 
intervene,  the  features  of  either  bank  begin  to  be 
clearly  distinguished  at  the  same  time.  The  Argen- 
tine shore  has  broken  away  from  its  dead  level 
now,  and  is  rising  in  gentle  undulations  ; the 
Uruguayan  coast,  too,  as  though  in  a determined 
endeavour  to  retain  its  physical  superiority,  has  taken 
to  heap  itself  in  far  loftier  and  more  imposing  hills 
than  before. 

The  next  town  of  importance  at  which  the  steamer 
halts  is  that  of  Paysandu,  the  great  centre  of  ox- 
tongues. Indeed,  were  one  to  adopt  the  popular 
figurative  methods  of  certain  magazines,  amazing 
results  might  well  be  extracted  from  the  commerce 
of  the  place.  Thus,  supposing  a year’s  accumulation 
of  Paysandu  ox-tongues  were  able  jointly  to  give 
forth  the  notes  that  they  were  wont  to  render  in 
life,  the  effect  of  the  combined  roar  would  probably 
be  to  deafen  the  entire  populace  of  the  Republic, 


232 


URUGUAY 


and  to  blow  every  atom  of  water  from  the  river  ! 
[The  number  of  men  they  would  feed,  and  the  distance 
they  would  cover  if  extended  in  a line  I do  not  know  ; 
but  it  may  be  taken  for  granted  that  the  export 
of  these  preserved  instruments  of  bovine  speech  is 
very  considerable. 

Paysandu  ranks  as  the  second  commercial  city  in 
the  Republic.  It  is  true  that,  so  far  as  size  is  con- 
cerned, it  is  altogether  dwarfed  by  Montevideo,  since 
the  inhabitants  of  the  smaller  town  number  only 
twenty  thousand  or  so.  Yet,  the  centre  of  a rich 
pastoral  and  agricultural  province,  the  place  is  of 
no  little  commercial  importance,  and,  although  its 
architecture  remains  largely  of  the  pleasant  but  old- 
fashioned  Spanish  style,  not  a few  new  buildings  and 
boulevards  have  already  sprung  into  existence.  Like 
the  majority  of  towns  of  its  kind,  it  is  well  equipped 
with  electric  lighting,  telephones,  and  other  such 
modern  appliances,  although  its  tramcar  traction  is 
still  effected  by  the  humbler  methods  of  the  horse. 

To  the  north  of  Paysandu  the  stream  narrows,  the 
islands  become  few  and  far  between,  and  the  course 
of  the  river  is  distinct  and  well-defined.  The  land- 
scape, too,  is  more  varied  now  than  that  of  the 
lower  reaches.  Among  the  Uruguayan  rounded  hills 
a few  well-marked  tablelands  spread  their  broad, 
level  surfaces  in  the  way  that  is  characteristic  of  so 
many  parts  of  the  Republic.  Both  the  inland  valleys 
and  river  banks  are  covered  with  an  added  density 
of  vegetation,  while  beaches  of  shining  white  sand 
jut  out  at  intervals  from  the  shore.  As  for  the 
Argentine  bank,  it  has  quite  suddenly  assumed  a 
marked  individuality  of  its  own.  It  is  covered  with 
a reddish  yellow  rolling  soil,  tinged  only  lightly  with 
green,  from  which  close  groves  of  palm-trees  sprout 
upwards  for  mile  after  mile.  It  is  as  though  a 
portion  of  Africa  on  the  one  shore  were  facing  a 


THE  URUGUAY  RIVER 


233 


rather  wooded  and  broken  portion  of  the  South 
Downs  on  the  other  I 

The  water  itself  has  been  growing  more  limpid 
all  the  while,  now  that  the  dead-flat,  soft,  alluvial  soil 
of  the  Argentine  bank  has  given  way  to  a harder  and 
more  stony  surface.  It  has  become  shallow  in  parts, 
too,  and  the  nose  of  the  steamer  often  gives  a tentative 
turn  to  the  right  or  left  as  she  cautiously  feels  her 
way.  The  craft  has  penetrated  almost  to  the  limits 
of  the  lower  stretch  of  the  great  river  now,  and  the 
rising  bed  is  a premonitory  symptom  of  the  end. 

On  the  right  has  now  risen  the  loftiest  bluff  that 
has  yet  marked  the  Uruguayan  shore.  It  forms  one 
of  the  walls  of  a striking  and  bold  table-land.  The 
place  is  now  known  as  the  Mesa  de  Artigas — the 
table  of  Artigas.  It  was  upon  the  summit  of  this  hill 
that  the  Uruguayan  national  hero  had  his  chief 
encampment,  and  it  has  been  described  as  a desolate 
and  lonely  spot,  haunted  by  murdered  spirits  and 
by  the  memory  of  horrors,  that  no  living  being 
cared  to  approach.  The  description  cannot  be  said 
to  hold  good  at  the  present  moment.  The  green 
slopes  are  dotted  with  grazing  cattle  and  sheep,  while 
at  one  point  the  distant  figures  of  two  mounted 
Gauchos  are  careering  to  and  fro,  and  the  cattle  in 
the  neighbourhood  are  wheeling  together  and  lumber- 
ing forward  as  a result  of  their  manoeuvres. 

On  the  summit  of  the  tableland  is  a peculiarly 
tall  stone  pedestal  that  rises  from  a great  pyramidal 
base  to  soar  high  upwards  against  the  sky-line.  The 
shaft  is  surmounted  by  a bust  that  represents  Artigas 
himself.  The  entire  structure  is  on  the  colossal  side, 
and  the  effect  of  the  bust  poised  on  high  against 
the  blue  of  the  air  is  curious  rather  than  effective. 
Viewing  it  from  far  below,  it  is  difficult  to  avoid 
the  impression  that  the  head  and  shoulders,  placed 
half-way  between  earth  and  heaven,  are  pleading 


234 


URUGUAY 


with  mute  eloquence  for  a body  and  legs  with  which 
to  grasp  more  firmly  the  summit  of  the  sustaining 
shaft.  In  any  case  the  monument  is  bold,  and 
affords  a strikingly  conspicuous  landmark  for  an  area 
of  many  leagues. 

To  the  north  of  the  Mesa  de  Artigas  the  land- 
scape of  the  river  continues  bold  and  hilly.  A score 
or  so  of  miles  up-stream  from  the  monument  lies  the 
town  of  Salto,  the  last  place  of  real  importance  upon 
this  stretch  of  the  Uruguayan  frontier.  With  its 
buildings  rising  to  cover  the  hills  of  its  site,  the  pano- 
rama of  Salto  is  more  imposing  in  its  way  than  that 
of  any  other  town  on  the  banks  of  the  stream. 
Indeed,  piled  on  the  summit  of  cliffs  and  bluffs,  the 
white  masses  of  masonry,  crowned  by  a few  steeples 
and  towers,  are  visible  from  far  inland  upon  the 
Argentine  territory  as  well  as  from  the  remoter  neigh- 
bourhoods of  its  own  soil.  The  river  just  here  is 
exceptionally  populous,  since  facing  Salto  from 
across  the  waters  is  Concordia,  a large  and  thriving 
Argentine  town. 

The  population  of  Salto  is  slightly  in  excess  of 
twenty  thousand,  and,  like  every  other  town  along 
the  length  of  the  stream,  it  serves  as  a storehouse 
for  the  pastoral  and  agricultural  industries  of  the 
district.  In  many  respects,  however,  the  situation  of 
the  town  gives  it  a commercial  scope  greater  than 
that  of  the  more  southern  towns.  Although  the 

climate  lacks  sufficient  heat  for  the  production  of 
the  banana  and  similar  sub -tropical  growths,  the 
variety  of  fruit  is  very  great.  The  orange  flourishes 
in  exceptional  abundance  here,  and  its  cultivation 
forms  a valuable  addition  to  the  wealth  of  the 
district. 

Pleasantly  situated,  with  shaded  plazas  and 
avenues,  and  with  the  orchards,  vineyards,  orange - 
groves,  and  well -timbered  country  of  its  outskirts. 


CATTLE  ON  THE  ROAD 


_ 

*•  ' i iV  . ' 


■-  - ■ ■ . . 


5 


A CORNER  OF  THE  FRAY  BENTOS  FACTORY. 


To  face  p.  234. 


s 


THE  URUGUAY  RIVER 


235 


Salto  lies  at  the  end— or,  to  be  more  accurate,  the 
beginning — of  the  lower  Uruguay.  Just  above  the 
town  a white  foaming  line  stretches  from  bank  to 
bank  during  the  periods  when  the  river  is  low.  But 
these  lower  falls  are  navigable  during  a considerable 
portion  of  the  year,  and  not  until  Salto  Grande,  at 
a point  considerably  higher  up,  is  the  permanent 
barrier  to  navigation  reached.  Between  Salto  itself 
and  Concordia  the  river  is  plentifully  strewn  with 
rocks,  and,  although  the  channels  are  deep,  it  is 
necessary  on  this  head  for  vessels  to  use  considerable 
caution,  more  especially  as  the  tide  races  fiercely  just 
here.  Indeed,  the  fluctuations  of  the  stream  at  this 
point  are  very  great,  and  account  for  the  tremen- 
dously lofty  wooden  passenger  pier  that  serves  the 
town. 

It  is  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Salto  that  is  found 
the  curious  water  stone  that  is  referred  to  elsewhere 
in  this  book.  It  is  in  this  province  too  that  exist 
the  topaz  and  amethyst  mines.  The  visitor,  how- 
ever, need  not  trouble  his  head  to  start  out  upon  any 
expedition  with  the  object  of  picking  up  any  of 
these  curiosities.  The  topaz  and  amethyst  fields  are 
well-defined  private  property,  while  the  water-stone 
is  as  shy  and  elusive  as  a four-leaved  clover  at 
home.  If  in  quest  of  these  objects,  it  is  wiser  to 
restrict  the  field  of  adventure  to  the  Salto  shops. 

It  has  been  noticeable  all  the  time  whilst  ascending 
the  river  that  the  water  has  steadily  become  less 
tinged  with  yellow.  Above  the  falls,  however,  the 
distinction  is  far  more  marked.  The  stream  here 
is  peculiarly  limpid,  and  the  effect  at  a northern  spot 
such  as  Santa  Rosa,  almost  on  the  Brazilian  frontier, 
is  entrancing.  Here  the  river  is  at  times  of  a brilliant 
blue  tint — a broad  azure  ribbon  winding  between 
swelling  banks  covered  now  with  dense  folds  of 
vegetation.  Viewed  from  the  rising  ground  in  the 


236 


URUGUAY 


neighbourhood,  the  conviction  is  inevitable  that, 
although  the  northern  waters  may  have  lost* a little 
in  commercial  importance,  the  Upper  Uruguay  can 
lay  claim  to  a degree  of  beauty  with  which  the  lower 
reaches,  for  all  their  charm,  cannot  compete. 


CHAPTER  XX 


THE  URUGUAYAN  CAMPO 

Formation  of  the  land — A survey  of  the  country — Features  of  the  soil — 
Types  of  wild  flowers — A land  of  hill,  valley,  and  stream — The 
glamour  of  the  distance — “ The  purple  land  ” — Breezes  of  the  Campo 
— Anj  exhilarating  country — The  dearth  of  homesteads — The  Uru- 
guayan Gaucho — His  physique — The  product  of  the  blowy  uplands — 
Matters  of  temperament — His  comparative  joviality — The  Gaucho  as 
worker,  player,  and  fighter — The  manipulation  of  feuds — A com- 
parison between  Argentina  and  Uruguay — Warrior  ancestors  of  the 
Gaucho — His  sense  of  dignity  and  honour — Conservative  habits  and 
customs  — Costume  and  horse  gear  — Strenuous  bailes  — Some 
homeric  feats  of  dancing — Stirring  revelry — The  Uruguayan  land- 
owner — Foreign  elements  in  the  land — Negro  inhabitants  of  the 
Banda  Oriental — The  numerical  status  of  the  Africans  in  the  north 
and  in  the  south — Absence  of  a racial  question — The  slavery  of 
former  days — The  employment  of  black  troops  in  war — Lenient 
treatment  of  negro  slaves — Harsh  measures  applied  to  aboriginal 
Indians — A lesson  in  human  economy — Testimony  of  a contemporary 
writer — Immigrant  colonies. 

The  Uruguayan  Campo  is  not  to  be  described 
without  a certain  amount  of  hesitation.  It  would 
be  simple  enough  for  one  who  had  caught  only  a 
distant  passing  glimpse  of  the  land  of  the  pastures  to 
put  down  the  country  without  further  ado  as  rolling 
grass  upland  watered  by  many  streams.  That  such 
is  the  foundation  of  the  Campo  is  undeniable.  Never- 
theless to  begin  and  end  with  such  a phrase  would 
be  equivalent  to  a description  of  the  peacock  as  a 
bird  who  wears  coloured  feathers. 

The  subtle  charms  of  the  Uruguayan  Campo  are 

23? 


238 


URUGUAY 


not  to  be  discerned  through  the  medium  of  the 
bioscope-like  glimpses  that  so  many  travellers  obtain 
of  it.  Very  rightly,  it  refuses  to  reveal  itself  fully 
until  a certain  amount  of  familiarity  has  justified 
a nearer  acquaintance.  From  an  aesthetic  point  of 
view  it  certainly  holds  far  more  than  might  be 
expected  from  a country  of  such  comparatively 
limited  attributes. 

If  you  desire  to  watch  the  moods  of  this  rural 
Banda  Oriental,  ride  out  to  mount  one  of  the  higher 
shoulders  of  the  downland,  and  wait  there,  either 
in  the  saddle  or  out  of  it.  You  will  obtain  little 
sympathy  in  the  task.  Eccentric  to  the  mind  of 
the  estancieros,  frankly  mad  in  the  eagle  eyes  of 
the  Gaucho — a calm  survey  of  the  Campo  is  worth  all 
such  merely  human  depreciation! 

The  aspect  of  the  country  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood of  where  the  observer  has  taken  his  stand 
will  be  green  in  the  ma,in,  although  the  unbroken 
verdure  by  no  means  obtains  throughout.  Here  and 
there  the  ground  is  strongly  marked  by  the  occasional 
heaps  of  stones  that  come  jostling  to  the  surface, 
and  that  recline  in  the  fashion  of  small  bleak  islands 
in  the  midst  of  the  green  waves.  But,  should  the 
time  be  spring,  these  latter  are  themselves  flecked 
frequently  almost  to  the  extinction  of  their  own 
colouring.  The  great  purple  bands  and  patches  of 
the  flor  morala  lie  thickly  upon  the  land.  These, 
however,  stand  apart,  since  where  they  glow  the 
serried  ranks  of  blossom  permit  no  others  to  raise 
their  heads. 

But  these,  though  the  boldest  of  their  kind,  are 
by  no  means  the  sole  occupants  of  the  landscape. 
Indeed,  one  of  the  chief  characteristics  of  the  Banda’ 
Oriental  Campo  is  the  wealth  of  beautiful  and  com- 
paratively lowly  plants  that  grow  amidst  the  grasses. 
They  are  of  the  type  of  English  blossoms,  peering  out 


PASTORAL  SCENE, 


f 


% 


THE  URUGUAYAN  CAMPO  239 


shyly  from  between  the  green  blades,  blowing  purely 
and  sweetly  in  their  innocence  of  the  heavy  sickli- 
ness of  the  tropics.  It  is  where  the  ground  is  chiefly 
dotted  with  these  fresh  flowers  that  the  smile  of  the 
Campo  is  most  brilliant. 

’So  much  for  the  immediate  surroundings  up  to 
the  point  where  the  more  intricate  markings  become 
merged  in  the  broader  tints  of  the  landscape.  Down 
in  the  hollows  are  bands  of  dark,  close  green  formed 
by  the  trees  that  shade  the  streams.  With  scarcely 
a break  in  the  narrow  walls  of  verdure  they  run  from 
valley  to  valley,  accurately  defining  the  banks  of 
the  small  rivers  whose  waters  they  conceal.  Within 
these  leafy  lanes  lurk  the  only  spots  upon  the  Campo, 
save  for  the  rare  woodland,  that  do  not  stare  frankly 
upwards,  exposing  all  their  earthly  soul  to  the  blue 
sky. 

Away  in  the  far  distance  there  is  a magic  glamour. 
There  the  lands  are  no  longer  green  to  the  eye.  The 
soft  waves,  as  they  rise  and  dip  in  an  accumulation  of 
folds  towards  the  final  horizon  line,  are  bathed  in 
warm  purple.  The  Banda  Oriental  has  been  called 
“ the  purple  land  " by  one  who  knew  it  well,  and 
never  was  a name  better  applied.  Without  the  fore- 
ground—that  is  itself  strongly  purpled  by  the  banks 
of  the  flor  morala — all  is  purple  and  mystic.  The 
land  has  its  ordinary  mirages  as  well;  but  here  is 
one  that  at  all  times  confronts  the  traveller— that 
wonderful  land  of  the  horizon  that,  unattainable,  dies 
farther  away  as  it  is  approached. 

Yet,  notwithstanding  its  soft  romance,  the  place 
is  essentially  alive.  It  is  a blowy  haunt  of  clean 
fresh  airs  that  sweep  the  slopes  and  open  valleys  to 
billow  the  grass  tops  and  to  refresh  mankind.  It 
is  amidst  such  surroundings  that  the  Oriental  of  the 
country  dwells.  His  type  is  not  very  numerous,  it 
is  true,  and— although  the  dearth  of  houses  suits  the 


240 


URUGUAY 


landscape  itself  most  admirably — the  scarcity  of  habi- 
tation is  a little  lamentable  in  so  wealthy  and 
pleasant  a land.  It  is  practically  certain,  as  a matter 
of  fact,  that  the  pastures  will  bear  more  roots  in 
the  near  future  than  they  have  ever  known  in  the 
past  ; but  in  the  meanwhile  it  is  necessary  to  take 
them  as  they  are,  and  their  inhabitants  as  well. 

Of  these  inhabitants  the  true  paisano , the  Gaucho, 
decidedly  claims  the  chief  share  of  attention.  The 
Gaucho  of  the  Banda  Oriental  is  not  to  be  confused 
with  his  brethren  of  the  neighbouring  countries.  In 
appearance  he  presents  perhaps  the  finest  specimen 
amongst  the  various  kindred  families  of  his  race. 
He  is  taller  in  stature,  and,  if  possible,  even  more 
athletic  in  his  lithe  frame  than  his  neighbour.  His 
complexion,  moreover,  though  frequently  dusky  and 
invariably  tanned,  is  peculiarly  wholesome  and  fresh. 
It  was  inevitable  that  the  blowy  downlands  should 
have  produced  a fitting  and  appropriate  breed  of 
amazingly  healthy,  hardy,  and  fearless  men  to  whom 
the  art  of  horsemanship  has  become  second  nature, 
while  the  occasional  enforced  spells  of  pedestrianism 
have  degenerated  into  a mere  unwelcome  accident  of 
life. 

The  temperament  of  the  Uruguayan  Gaucho  shows 
corresponding  distinction  from  that  of  the  rest.  It 
goes  without  saying  that  he  is  strongly  imbued  with 
the^  grim  dignity  of  the  race.  Silent  austerity  here, 
however,  is  modified  by  lighter  traits.  In  the  same 
way  as  the  higher  social  member  of  his  country,  he 
is  more  easily  moved  to  laughter  than  his  neighbours, 
and  indulges  from  time  to  time  in  frank  outbursts 
of  joviality. 

For  practical  purposes  it  is  necessary  to  regard 
this  child  of  the  Campo  from  three  standpoints — 
from  that  of  the  worker,  the  player,  and  the  fighter. 
It  is  rare  enough  that  one  of  them  is  not  called  upon 


THE  URUGUAYAN  CAMPG  241 


to  fill  all  these  three  roles  on  a good  many  occasions 
during  his  lifetime.  As  stock -rider,  he  has  proved 
his  courage,  fidelity,  and  honesty  of  purpose  to  the 
full;  his  moments  of  recreation  are  taken  up  by 
equestrian  sports,  guitar-playing,  and  chance  affairs 
of  the  heart,  whilst  in  warfare  he  has  had  only 
too  many  opportunities  of  displaying  his  reckless 
brilliancy — frequently,  it  must  be  admitted,  at  the 
cost  of  discipline  and  order. 

In  his  private  quarrels  the  Argentine  Gaucho  will 
bottle  up  his  wrath  until  his  overflowing  passion 
culminates  without  warning  in  the  rapid  knife  thrust 
or  revolver  shot.  The  conclusion  of  a serious  dis- 
pute between  his  Uruguayan  brethren  will  almost 
certainly  be  the  same;  but  the  tragic  climax  will 
be  approached  in  quite  another  fashion.  The  atmo- 
spheric effervescence  of  the  Banda  Oriental  will  enter 
into  the  case.  There  will  be  shouting,  vociferation, 
and  not  a little  abuse.  Not  until  a fair  exchange 
of  all  this  has  been  bandied  to  and  fro  will  come  the 
flash  of  steel  or  flame — and  the  red  stain  upon  the 
grasses  of  the  Campo. 

That  these  dwellers  upon  the  downlands  should 
prove  themselves  born  fighters  is  no  matter  for 
surprise.  For  the  dusky  side  of  their  ancestry  they 
claim  the  Charrua  Indians,  the  fiercest  and  most 
warlike  of  all  the  tribes  in  the  neighbouring 
provinces.  With  this  strain  added  to  the  blood  of 
the  old  Spaniards,  and  the  mixture  fostered  and 
nourished  by  the  breezy  hills,  the  result  has  been  a 
being  whose  keen  sense  of  dignity  and  honour  were 
ever  in  the  very  active  custody  of  knife  or  lance. 

As  is  perhaps  natural  enough  in  a land  whose 
interests — as  compared  with  the  agricultural  develop- 
ment of  the  neighbouring  countries — are  almost  purely 
pastoral,  the  habits  and  customs  of  the  Oriental  have 
remained  unusually  conservative.  His  poncho  is  a 

16 


242 


URUGUAY 


veritable  poncho,  often  of  a bizarre  and  daring  hue  ; 
his  spurs  are  weapons  that  glitter  in  huge  circles 
at  his  heels,  while  his  horse  furniture  is  frequently 
silvered  to  the  very  last  degree. 

.When  the  Gaucho  undertakes  a dance — a baile — 
moreover,  he  enters  into  the  performance  with  a 
zest  that  puts  to  shame  the  human  products  of  a later 
civilisation.  In  order  to  witness  one  of  the  most 
homeric  of  these  exhibitions  it  is  necessary  to  suppose 
the  revellers  in  the  peculiarly  reckless  and  irre- 
sponsible mood  that  from  time  to  time  falls  to  their 
lot.  On  such  an  occasion  their  wonted  strict  sobriety 
is  abruptly  melted  beneath  the  flow  of  the  native 
spirit,  cana,  and  perhaps  that  of  wine,  and  of  beer. 
Then  upon  the  open  sward  of  the  Campo  they  will 
dance  their  tangos , stepping  it  manfully  for  hour  after 
hour. 

Indeed,  strengthened  by  the  intervals  of  rest, 
refreshment,  and  sleep,  it  is  not  unusual  for  them 
to  continue  these  tremendous  terpsichorean  feats  for 
two  or  three  days  on  end.  At  the  conclusion  of 
which,  having  danced  themselves  out  and  drunk 
themselves  in,  these  astonishing  mortals  are  perfectly 
ready  for  their  strenuous  work  in  the  saddle ! 

Having  concluded  with  the  Gaucho,  it  soon 
becomes  evident  that  the  main  features  of  individu- 
ality that  distinguish  the  Uruguayan  from  his  neigh- 
bours are  very  nearly  finished  with  as  well.  The 
landowner,  it  is  true,  still  clings  in  parts  to  ancient 
customs  and  the  remnants  of  national  costume  rather 
more  closely  than  elsewhere  in  the  Southern  republics. 
But  the  distinctions  here  are  less  marked,  and  in  the 
case  of  the  townsmen  have  disappeared  altogether. 
An  important  factor  in  the  population  is  now 
provided  by  the  large  foreign  element  that  has 
settled  itself  permanently  in  the  country.  By  far 
the  most  numerous  communities  of  these  are  those 


THE  URUGUAYAN  CAMP.O  243 


of  the  Italians  and  Spaniards  ; but  in  addition  there 
is  scarcely  a European  country  that  is  not  more  or 
less  strongly  represented  by  its  emigrants. 

The  negro  race,  although  its  presence  is  more 
marked  than  in  the  republics  to  the  West,  is  quite 
insignificant  numerically  in  the  South  of  Uruguay. 
Towards  the  north,  however,  the  numbers  of  the 
Africans  are  much  increased,  and  as  the  Brazilian 
frontier  is  closely  approached,  the  black  people  tend 
rather  to  predominate  over  the  white.  It  is  only 
in  these  remote  districts  that  the  possibility  of  a 
racial  question  could  be  involved.  As  a matter  of 
fact,  such  an  eventuality  is  quite  undreamed  of,  and 
nowhere  in  the  world  is  it  less  likely  to  occur.  In 
the  absence  of  any  drawn  distinction  the  negro 
appears  to  exist  in  more  or  less  complete  peace, 
and  only  meddles  with  the  affairs  of  the  country 
during  troublous  times  when  instructed  by  the  true 
lords  of  the  soil,  whose  actual  superiority  would  seem 
all  the  greater  for  the  fact  of  its  being  unexpressed. 

Considering  the  number  of  slaves  that  were 
imported  directly  into  Uruguay  as  well  as  those  that 
filtered  southwards  through  Brazil,  it  is  perhaps  some- 
what a matter  for  astonishment  that  these  blacks 
are  not  numerically  stronger  than  is  the  case.  The 
explanation  lies  largely  in  the  numerous  wars  by 
which  the  country  has  been  harassed  in  the  past,  and 
in  the  policy  that  prevailed  under  the  old  Spanish 
rdgime.  Black  troops  were  freely  employed  then, 
and  it  must  be  admitted  that  they  met  with  far  less 
consideration  than  the  rest.  If  a desperate  situation 
arose,  they  were  wont  to  be  sent  out  in  search  of  a 
glory  that  was  very  remote  and  of  a death  that  was 
very  near,  not  necessarily  because  the  Spaniards 
feared  for  themselves  in  the  attempt,  but  rather  on 
account  of  the  science  of  racial  economy,  and  on  the 
principle  of  sacrificing  the  pawns  before  the  more 


244 


URUGUAY 


aristocratic  chessmen.  And  it  is  to  these  wholesale 
gaps  in  the  black  ranks  that  the  existing  scarcity 
of  the  negro  population  in  the  South  is  largely  due. 

Not  that  it  must  be  inferred  from  this  that  the 
general  treatment  of  the  African  slaves  by  the 
Spaniards  was  severe.  Their  fate  has  always  been 
entirely  distinct  from  that  of  the  unfortunate  native 
Indians.  The  blood  of  these  latter,  slain  by  the 
first  generation  of  adventurous  conquistador es,  flowed 
in  red  rivers  almost  the  length  and  breadth  of  South 
America,  while  tens  of  thousands  more  sank  and 
died  beneath  the  superhuman  tasks  imposed  upon 
them. 

Nevertheless  they  were  not  sacrificed  from  mere 
wanton  love  of  slaughter.  Held  as  soulless  instru- 
ments from  whom  the  last  possible  ounce  of  labour 
was  to  be  extracted,  these  fearful  slaughterings  were 
instigated  as  acts  of  discipline  that  should  make  more 
pliant  and  serviceable  material  of  the  general  body, 
while  the  cowed  met  their  slower,  toilful  death  in 
order  that  their  masters  should  obtain  wealth  ere 
the  advent  from  Europe  of  further  competitors  who 
might  desire  to  share  their  wealth  with  them. 

After  a while  the  limitations  both  of  the  continent 
and  of  the  labour  capacities  of  its  natives  became 
evident,  and  the  first  spasms  of  the  remorseless  and 
feverish  lust  moderated.  It  was  then  that  the  intro- 
duction of  the  negro  occurred.  With  the  maturing 
of  the  continent  came  a milder  and  more  settled  form 
of  civilisation,  of  which  the  dusky  imported  labourers 
obtained  the  full  benefit.  That  they  were  well  cared 
for  in  times  of  peace  is  testified  to  not  only  by 
the  native  historians  but  by  perfectly  unbiassed 
English  travellers.  One  of  these,  who  visited 
Uruguay  during  the  last  years  of  the  Spanish 
dominion,  is  particularly  emphatic  on  the  point. 

“ There  is  one  trait,”  he  writes,  “ in  the  South 


THE  URUGUAYAN  CAMPO  245 


American  Spaniards  much  in  their  favour.  I mean 
the  mild,  humane,  and  gentle  treatment  which  their 
slaves  receive.  This  one  would  scarcely  expect  from 
the  cruelty  they  manifest  to  animals.  The  condition 
of  the  Africans  here  is  without  doubt  happier  than 
in  any  other  part  of  the  world  where  they  are  held 
in  slavery,  and  I will  even  venture  to  say,  more  so 
than  in  their  native  country.  A severe  punishment 
is  seldom  inflicted  ; the  tasks  imposed  on  them  are 
light,  and  such  as  they  can  easily  execute.  Indeed, 
they  scarcely  seem  to  be  slaves. ” 

If  any  palliation  for  enforced  human  labour  were 
possible  it  might  be  looked  for  in  evidence  such 
as  this.  Nevertheless,  since  nothing  of  the  kind  is 
admissible,  it  is  well  to  remember  that  the  slave  era 
in  the  River  Plate  countries  is  now  a matter  of  com- 
paratively remote  history.  Moreover,  as  though  in 
compensation  for  a former  servitude,  however  light, 
the  lot  of  the  African  here  is  now  undoubtedly  happier 
than  almost  anywhere  else  in  the  world. 

In  addition  to  the  ordinary  foreign  landowners  and 
residents  in  Uruguay  are  a few  of  the  regular  immi- 
grant colonies  the  establishment  of  which  has  now 
become  so  popular  throughout  the  Southern  republics. 
Of  these  the  most  important  is  the  Swiss  Colony  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Colonia,  to  which  reference  has 
already  been  made. 


CHAPTER  XXI 

ESTANCIA  LIFE 

Similarities  between  the  farming  routine  of  Uruguay  and  of  Argentina — 
The  Banda  Oriental  a pastoral  rather  than  an  agricultural  land — Viti- 
culture an  asset  in  estancia  affairs — Wheat,  maize,  and  linseed — 
Scarcity  of  alfalfa — Excellence  of  the  natural  pastures — The  possibili- 
ties of  private  agricultural  colonisation — Favourable  outlook  for 
grazing  countries  in  general — Lemco  estancias — The  estancia  San 
Juan — A comprehensive  enterprise — Cattle,  cereals,  and  viticulture — 
Stone  quarries — A Campo  sketch — The  cutting  out  of  a bullock — A 
Gaucho  meal. 

The  Uruguayan  estancia  life  resembles  that  of 
Argentina  very  closely.  And  of  this  latter  so  much 
has  been  written  in  recent  years  that  a too  lengthy 
description  of  the  routine  of  one  of  the  great  cattle 
farms  would  almost  inevitably  savour  of  repetition 
and  superfluity.  The  duties  of  both  estanciero  and 
his  major-domo  are,  indeed,  almost  identical  with 
those  of  their  brethren  upon  the  other  side  of  the 
great  river.  There  are  similar  rides  of  inspection 
in  order  to  “ revise  camp,”  similar  great  rodeos , or 
gatherings  of  cattle,  and  a general  method  of  life 
that  is  distinct  from  the  other  merely  in  minor  details. 

In  the  main  ethics  of  the  farming  itself,  it  is  true, 
there  are  some  differences.  Seeing  that  Uruguay  is 
a pastoral  rather  than  an  agricultural  land,  the  system 
of  setting  apart  a certain  proportion  of  a private 
estancia  for  the  purpose  of  colonisation  by  crop- 
raising tenants  is  almost  unknown.  On  the  other 

246 


HEREFORD  CATTLE  ON  THE  BICHADERO  ESTANCIA, 


ESTANCIA  LIFE 


247 


hand,  as  it  happens  that  the  soil  of  a portion  of  almost 
every  province  is  suitable  for  viticulture,  a great 
number  of  the  Uruguayan  landowners  throughout  the 
republic  cultivate  vineyards — an  industry  that  in 
Argentina  is  confined  almost  entirely  to  the  two  great 
grape -growing  centres  of  Mendoza  and  San  Juan. 
In  many  districts  of  the  Banda  Oriental,  moreover, 
fruit-growing  forms  part  and  parcel  of  the  industrial 
programme  of  an  estancia,  instead  of  necessarily 
forming  an  entirely  separate  branch  of  commerce, 
as  is  the  case  in  Argentina;. 

Although  I have  referred  to  Uruguay  as  an  essen- 
tially pastoral  country,  it  must  not  be  inferred  from 
this  that  the  cultivation  of  cereals  and  the  like  has 
no  existence  in  the  land.  On  the  contrary,  many 
districts — notably  that  of  Colonia,  the  most  fertile 
in  the  Republic — produce  really  important  quantities 
of  wheat  and  maize,  and  a certain  amount  of  linseed 
beyond,  although  this  latter  is  grown  in  a minor 
degree.  Very  few  districts  in  the  country  are 
adapted  for  the  favourable  cultivation  of  alfalfa,  a 
fact  that  is  undoubtedly  to  be  regretted,  since  the 
merits  of  this  lucerne  for  the  purposes  of  fattening 
cattle  are  supreme.  Yet  this  disadvantage  is  to  a 
great  extent  counterbalanced  by  the  excellent  pastures 
of  natural  grass  with  which  Uruguay  is  so  plentifully 
endowed. 

It  is  likely  enough,  too,  that  the  system  of  private 
agricultural  coonisation  referred  to  above  will  in 
the  future  be  seriously  undertaken.  At  the  present 
moment  experiments  in  this  direction  are  being 
undertaken,  and,  should  the  landowners  become  im- 
pressed with  the  success  of  the  departure,  it  is  quite 
possible  that  the  system  will  spread  with  the  same 
rapidity  as  was  tie  case  in  Argentina. 

In  the  meanwhi.e  the  supreme  interest  of  Uruguay 
remains  pastoral  ; and  the  bulls  and  the  rams  con- 


248 


URUGUAY 


tinue  to  be  lords  in  the  land.  In  a sense  this  is 
undoubtedly  just  as  well,  for  in  all  probability  never 
was  the  outlook  for  grazing  countries  more  favourable 
than  it  is  at  the  present  moment,  when  the  exports 
of  North  America  are  rapidly  dying  away,  and  the 
markets  of  Europe  are  opening  their  metaphorical 
mouths  in  a clamorous  demand  for  further  supplies. 

Some  of  the  largest  and  most  imposing  of  the 
Uruguayan  estancias  are  situated  in  the  western  dis- 
tricts of  the  Republic.  Many  of  these,  such  as  the 
Bichadero,  Ombu,  and  others,  are  owned  by  the 
Lemco  Company,  and  constitute  most  imposing 
estates,  stocked  by  pedigree  cattle. 

The  San  Juan  estancia  is  situated  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Colonia,  and,  under  the  able  manage- 
ment of  Mr.  J.  Booth,  affords  one  of  the  best  possible 
examples  of  an  estate  whose  lands  have  been  aptly 
utilised  to  serve  various  purposes.  The  estancia  is 
noted  in  the  first  place  for  the  quality  of  its  live 
stock — and  with  no  little  reason,  since  it  harbours 
over  a thousand  head  of  pedigree  shorthorn  and 
Hereford  cattle. 

But  the  energies  of  the  San  Juan  estancia  are  not 
confined  to  the  raising  of  cattle  and  the  production 
of  maize.  Viticulture  is  a matter  of  great  import- 
ance here,  for  the  place  enjoys  a great  repute  for: 
the  quality  of  its  wine.  Its  vineyards,  as  a matter 
of  fact,  repose  on  a subsoil  of  iron-sto.ie  rocks,  which 
lends  a particularly  pleasant  flavour  to  the  vintages. 
In  addition  to  the  great  vineyards  that  spread  them- 
selves over  portions  of  the  estate,  the  cellars  of  its 
bodega  are  well  worth  a visit.  The  building  is 
specially  constructed  for  the  purpose,  and  contains 
air-spaces  between  the  inner  and  outer  walls,  thus 
rendering  the  interior  to  all  intents  and  purposes 
damp-proof. 

The  cellars  contain  forty-two  large  casks,  each 


ESTANCIA  LIFE 


249 


with  a capacity  for  holding  3,600  litres,  and,  beyond 
these,  twelve  giant  specimens,  in  each  of  which  eight 
thousand  litres  of  wine  may  be  stored.  The  extent 
of  the  vineyards  on  the  place  is  thirty  hectares,  and 
from  this  area  an  average  250,000  litres  of  wine  are 
produced  annually.  Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  the 
vineyard  industry  of  San  Juan  is  of  no  mean 
importance. 

Among  the  other  branches  of  general  industry  in 
which  San  Juan  is  interested  is  that  of  stone-quarries, 
the  quality  and  extent  of  the  deposits  here  being 
considerable.  A large  bee -farm  is  also  attached  to 
the  place.  In  addition  to  this  comprehensive  pro- 
gramme there  are,  of  course,  the  ordinary  side-issues 
of  estancia  production  in  the  way  of  both  live  stock 
and  agriculture.  Among  the  horses  bred  are  not  a 
few  racers  of  pedigree  stock  that  have  given  a good 
account  of  themselves  in  the  neighbourhood  and 
elsewhere. 

The  estancia -house  of  San  Juan  is  delightfully 
situated  amidst  orange,  wattle,  and  paraiso  trees,  from 
whose  trunks  and  branches  hang  festoons  of  air- 
plants  and  masses  of  yellow  orchids.  From  the 
picturesque,  shaded  building  itself  the  view  embraces 
miles  of  undulating  country  on  all  sides,  with  a few 
distant  peeps  of  the  waters  of  the  River  Plate  to 
the  south-west.  It  would  be  difficult  to  conceive  a 
pleasanter  or  a better  managed  spot. 

Such  estancias  as  these,  of  course,  represent  the 
cream  of  the  land,  and  Uruguayan  “ camp  ” life 
must  not  be  judged  as  a wffiole  by  such  particularly 
favourable  examples.  Even  the  foreigner  in  the 
Republic,  whose  life  is  wont  to  be  rather  more  fully 
surrounded  with  comfort  than  that  of  his  native- 
born  brother,  must  perforce  make  a beginning,  and, 
as  in  all  else,  it  is  always  the  first  steps  that  are  the 
roughest.  It  is  said  that  one  of  the  first  requisites 


250 


URUGUAY 


of  a gardener  is  a cast-iron  back.  In  the  same  way 
the  primary  needs  of  the  budding  estanciero  are 
undoubtedly  health  and  a good  horse.  In  these 
respects  he  is  likely  to  be  well  suited,  for  the  climate 
will  attend  to  the  former  and  his  patron  to  the 
latter. 

I have  already  said  that  the  scenes  upon  the 
Uruguayan  estancias  are  much  the  same  as  elsewhere, 
but  the  following  sketch  may  serve  to  show  a little 
of  the  local  colour  with  which  the  rural  Oriental 
landscape  and  life  are  imbued  : 

The  bullock  is  grazing  in  the  midst  of  his  fellows, 
plucking  stolidly  at  the  spring  grass,  whose  close 
blades  paint  the  undulations  of  the  Uruguayan  Campo 
in  soft  green.  No  pedigree  animal  this,  his  lengthy 
horns,  rather  pointed  nose,  and  shaggy  mottled  coat 
being  redeemed  by  Various  features  that  tend  to  raise 
him  from  the  mere  ruck  of  the  disappearing  country- 
bred.  There  is  a trace  of  Hereford  in  the  compact 
form,  straight  back,  and  in  the  symptoms  of  red- 
brown  and  white  that  endeavour  to  assert  themselves 
from  out  of  the  confusion  of  his  other  markings. 
Representing  one  of  the  earlier  stages  in  the  forward 
march  of  the  local  breeds,  he  is  of  the  type  known 
to  experts  by  the  cryptic  word  “ useful  ” — a 
meritorious  physical  condition  whose  reward  is  wont 
to  fructify  in  an  earlier  death  than  that  accorded 
to  those  of  his  brethren  who  are  less  liberal  in  meat. 
At  the  present  moment  the  bullock  is  supremely  con- 
tent, although  profoundly  unconscious  of  the  charm 
of  his  surroundings.  This  is  perhaps  just  as  well, 
since  his  ribs  would  undoubtedly  emerge  from  their 
plump  covering  were  he  to  waste  the  precious 
moments  of  mastication  in  favour  of  less  material 
delights.  As  it  is,  he  tramples  carelessly  on  the 
patches  of  scarlet  verbena,  and  crushes  the  life  from 


ESTANCIA  HOUSE  : SAN  JUAN, 


s 


. 


ESTANCIA  LIFE 


251 


the  white  tobacco  blossom  and  the  blue  lupin  flowrer 
with  a ponderous  impartiality.  It  is  enough  for  him 
that  the  warm  sunlight  beats  down  upon  his  back, 
and  that  the  plentiful  grass  rises  to  his  cud  in  a 
ceaseless  green  stream.  Moreover,  the  few  score  of 
companions  that  surround  him  lend  a dimly-felt  but 
comforting  sense  of  comradeship. 

From  the  green  of  the  foreground  to  the  blue  and 
mysterious  distant  swellings  of  the  horizon  the  face 
of  the  Campo  has  been  devoid  of  humanity.  Near 
by  a humble  rancho,  it  is  true,  raises  its  diffident 
walls  from  the  earth,  a lowly  erection  of  turf  and 
reeds,  enlivened  here  and  there  by  a small  auxiliary 
patch  of  corrugated  iron,  that  catches  up  the  sun -rays 
to  flash  them  back  in  brilliant  defiance.  But  there 
are  no  signs  of  life  about  the  place  beyond  that 
afforded  by  a couple  of  hens  of  worn  and  frayed 
appearance  that  make  rapid  and  spiteful  passes  at 
the  dust  with  their  beaks.  Only  when  the  sun  is 
falling  near  to  the  horizon  does  the  first  sign  mani- 
fest itself  of  more  active  stirrings.  The  figures  of 
two  horsemen  have  emerged  from  behind  a distant 
clump  of  eucalyptus  that  stands  out  like  a green 
island  from  the  midst  of  a rolling  sea. 

As  the  riders  draw  nearer  it  is  plain  that  they  are 
Gauchos — Gauchos  in  a workaday  mood,  and  conse- 
quently in  attire  far  less  picturesque  than  that  which 
lends  colour  to  their  feast  days.  Yet  they  afford 
striking  enough  figures  of  men  in  their  sombreros, 
kerchiefs,  white  shirts,  broad  trousers,  horse-hide 
boots,  and  giant  spurs.  Each  part  and  parcel  of 
his  horse,  they  come  loping  easily  along  with  that 
curious  air  of  careless  alertness  that  is  characteristic 
of  the  Gaucho.  With  the  first  warning  of  human 
approach  the  cattle  have  raised  their  heads  in  the 
wary  and  rather  resentful  stare  that  the  presence 
of  such  visitors  demands.  When  no  doubt  longer 


252 


URUGUAY 


remains  that  the  grim-faced  riders  are  heading 
directly  for  their  own  company,  doubt  turns  to  active 
alarm.  There  is  a flinging  up  of  heels  and  tails, 
a bunching  together  of  scattered  units,  and  a surging 
to  and  fro,  while  the  horns  wave  in  a panic  of  in- 
decision. The  bullock  with  the  traces  of  Hereford 
markings  has  run  to  a common  centre  with  the  rest. 

A moment  later  the  horses  are  cleaving  the  ranks 
of  the  cattle,  and  the  cumbrous  bodies  of  the  horned 
creatures  go  floundering  to  right  and  left  just  as 
they  have  floundered  a dozen  times  before,  with  pre- 
cisely the  same  degree,  moreover,  of  dread  and  con- 
fusion. Dodging  and  twisting  ponderously,  they  rush 
to  and  fro  for  a while,  then  flee  with  a thunder  of 
hoofs  from  the  impact,  ending  up  in  a breathless 
halt  at  length  to  turn  their  horns  upon  one  another 
in  a fury  of  terror.  All  but  the  bullock  with  the 
scanty  Hereford  markings.  He  has  raced  and 
charged  with  the  rest,  only  to  find  on  each  occasion 
a horse’s  flank  or  chest  barring  the  way  to  safety, 
and  a threatening  human  arm  raised  on  high  that 
sent  him  without  further  ado  to  the  right-about. 
And  now  the  situation  is  doubtless  quite  inexplicable, 
since  the  rumbling  of  his  companions’  hoofs  has  died 
away,  and  he  is  racing  across  the  Campo  quite  alone 
save  for  the  horseman  who  gallops  remorselessly  on 
either  flank — fatal  attendants  who  are  no  more  to 
be  shaken  off  than  the  hairs  of  his  hide.  A lasso 
circles  lightly  in  the  air,  uncoiling  as  it  goes  like 
an  aerial  snake  : the  noose  falls  with  a gentle  rattle 
on  the  hurrying  animal’s  horns.  A terrific  jerk  shakes 
him  from  tail  to  nostril.  But  the  bullock  has  kept 
his  legs,  and  stands  firm  now,  pulling  with  all  his 
might  against  the  strain  that  follows,  heaving  from 
side  to  side  in  his  fight  with  the  rope  that  never 
slackens.  There  is  a thudding  of  horses’  hoofs  at 
his  quarters  now.  Enraged  at  the  presence  of  a 


E3TANCXA  LIFE 


253 


second  foe,  the  bullock  kicks  wildly,  and  the  action 
is  the  signal  for  his  doom.  Another  rope  has  whistled 
through  the  air,  and  has  encircled  his  fetlock  in 
some  demoniacal  fashion.  In  consequence,  he  gives 
a strenuous  jump  into  the  air — his  last,  for  ere  his 
feet  have  touched  the  ground  his  legs  are  wrenched 
away  from  under  him,  and  the  heavy  body  of  the 
creature,  flung  full  upon  its  side,  strikes  the  earth 
with  a crash.  Ere  he  can  move  the  beat  of  gallop- 
ing horses’  hoofs  has  drawn  near,  and  ceased.  Two 
men  have  sprung  to  the  ground,  and  are  securing 
his  legs  with  ropes  ; then  one  rises  to  draw  the 
blade  of  a huge  knife  from  its  sheath  at  his  belt. 
A minute  later  there  is  a pool  of  darker  crimson  by 
the  side  of  the  verbena  patches.  A couple  of  hours 
later  there  is  a log  fire  upon  the  Campo,  and  the 
beef  is  being  cut  into  long  strips  from  where  it  is 
spitted  above  the  blaze,  and  eaten  wholesale  as 
Gaucho  appetite  demands.  In  the  meanwhile  the 
carancho  birds  are  gathering  thickly  above,  for  meat 
is  cheap  upon  the  open  pastures,  and  they  will  be 
economically-minded  Gauchos  indeed  who  do  not 
leave  them  the  greater  share  of  the  carcass. 


CHAPTER  XXII 

URUGUAY  AS  A PASTORAL  COUNTRY 

Origin  of  the  live  stock  of  the  country — Influence  of  the  climate  and 
pastures  upon  the  first  animals  introduced — Live  stock  census  of  1909 
— Importance  of  the  breeding  industry — Various  ramifications — Prin- 
cipal items  of  home  consumption — Articles  of  export — Quality  of  the 
first  herds  introduced — Type  of  original  sheep  and  horses — Goats  and 
pigs — The  introduction  of  a superior  class  of  animal — The  criollos  and 
the  mestizos — Breeds  imported — Durham,  Hereford,  Polled  Angus, 
and  Devon  cattle — Dutch,  Norman,  Flemish,  and  Swiss  cattle — 
Growth  of  the  dairy  industry — Popular  breeds  of  sheep  and  horses, 
and  pigs — Principal  countries  from  which  the  animals  are  derived — 
Growing  value  of  the  local-bred  live  stock — The  manipulation  of  an 
estancia — Well-found  estates — Uruguayan  agricultural  societies — 
Work  effected  by  these — Government  support — The  Rural  Association 
of  Uruguay — Financial  results  of  agricultural  shows — Side  products 
— Tallow — Hams — Tanning — “ La  Carolina  ” — A great  dairy  farm — 
The  factory  of  Breuss  and  Frey — The  saladeros,  or  meat-curing 
establishments — Number  of  animals  slaughtered — Method  by  which 
the  meat  is  cured — Tasajo — Countries  to  which  it  is  exported — 
The  frozen  meat  trade — “La  Frigorifica  Uruguaya” — Important 
growth  of  the  new  industry — Shipments  of  frozen  meat. 


The  great  numbers  of  the  live  stock  which  to-day 
constitute  the  chief  wealth  of  Uruguay  owe  their 
origin  to  the  animals  introduced  by  the  Spanish 
conquistadores  at  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth 
century. 

These  animals,  which,  of  course,  were  drawn  from 
the  breeds  that  existed  in  Spain  at  that  period,  found 
themselves  surrounded  by  conditions  that  were 

254 


A PASTORAL  COUNTRY 


255 


eminently  favourable.  Thus,  beneath  the  influence 
of  a temperate  climate  and  of  the  rich  and  nourish- 
ing pastures  that  cover  almost  the  entire  surface 
of  the  Republic  their  numbers  rapidly  multiplied.  It 
is  for  these  reasons,  moreover,  that  the  breeding 
and  traffic  in  these  animals  constitutes  at  the  present 
day  the  principal  industry  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  live  stock  census  organised  by  the  Govern- 
ment in  the  year  1909  gave  the  following  results 
concerning  the  numbers  of  the  live  stock  that  are 


now  in  existence 

in  the  Republic  : 

Sheep  ... 

• « • • • • • •• 

...  16,608,717 

Cattle  ... 

...  6,827,428 

Horses  ... 

561,408 

Pigs  ... 

93,923 

Mules  ... 

... 

22,992 

Goats  ... 

20,428 

Total 

...  24,134,896 

These  figures  might  reasonably  be  increased,  since 
it  was  necessarily  impossible  for  the  census  to  deal 
with  the  complete  numbers  of  the  animals  that  exist 
throughout  the  country.  Thus,  without  danger  of 
exaggeration,  it  may  be  supposed  that  some  thirty 
million  head  of  live  stock  actually  graze  upon  the 
pastures  of  the  land.  These  figures  suffice  to  show 
the  enormous  importance  to  which  live  stock  breeding 
has  attained  in  Uruguay. 

The  ramifications  of  this  industry  are  naturally 
numerous.  For  home  consumption  and  internal  com- 
merce meat,  milk,  and  tallow  form  the  principal 
items.  For  the  export  trade  the  list  is  considerably 
more  comprehensive.  Live  cattle,  frozen,  chilled, 
tinned,  and  dried  meat,  beef  extracts,  wool,  horns, 
hides,  tallow,  fat,  guano,  and  the  various  other 
products  now  make  up  a commerce  of  an  annual 
yalue  of  thirty  millions  of  gold  dollars,  or  of  rather 


256 


URUGUAY 


more  than  six  million  pounds  sterling.  Chilled  or 
frozen  beef  and  mutton  form  the  principal  items 
of  this  export  trade,  after  which  hides  and  extract 
of  meat  rank  next  in  importance. 

The  main  breeds  of  animals  introduced  by  the 
Spaniards  at  the  time  of  the  conquest,  although  they 
served  their  purpose  well  enough  at  the  time,  were 
by  no  means  of  the  type  which  the  exigencies  of 
modern  times  require.  The  cattle  of  former  years 
were  wanting  in  many  respects.  They  were  wont 
to  possess,  for  example,  a superabundance  of  bone, 
were  badly  built,  and  were  notably  backward  in  de- 
velopment. The  sheep  were  possessed  of  the  same 
faults,  and,  in  addition,  were  wont  to  yield  inferior 
wool. 

The  horses,  on  the  other  hand,  although  of  light 
build  and  lacking  somewhat  in  shape,  have  proved 
themselves  particularly  well  suited  to  the  country. 
Hardy  and  of  great  power  of  endurance,  they  have 
adapted  themselves  completely  to  the  natural  con- 
ditions of  the  land.  From  this  stock  a breed  has 
sprung  that  fulfils  admirably  the  equine  duties  of 
the  Campo.  The  tendency  of  these  horses  has  been 
to  improve  and  to  increase  in  size.  Both  the  pigs 
and  goats  that  were  imported  from  Spain  were  of 
an  inferior  order,  although  the  latter  showed  favour- 
able results  in  the  yielding  of  milk. 

By  the  aid  of  these  breeds  alone  it  is  certain 
that  the  live  stock  of  Uruguay  could  never  have 
attained  to  that  degree  of  excellence  in  quality  such 
as  it  can  legitimately  boast  to-day.  From  these, 
for  example,  cattle  could  never  have  been  produced 
of  the  class  that  the  freezing  works  now  demand, 
nor  the  valuable  wool  that  is  characteristic  of  the 
day.  The  beginning  of  this  later  progress  dates 
from  the  middle  of  the  last  century.  It  was  then 
that  the  more  progressive  breeders  became  aware 


AS  A PASTORAL  COUNTRY  257 


of  the  limitations  of  the  criollo  races,  as  are  termed 
the  breeds  imported  from  Spain  that  have  flourished 
and  taken  root  in  the  land.  To  this  end  these  were 
crossed  with  others  of  a superior  type,  and  thus 
the  much-improved  mestizos,  or  cross-breds,  were 
obtained.  These  now  preponderate  in  many  regions 
of  the  Republic,  in  which,  by  the  way,  no  true  criollo 
animals  now  remain. 

In  order  to  effect  this  improvement  in  the  cattle 
various  English  breeds  have  been  introduced.  Of 
these  the  two  most  important  are  the  Durham  and 
the  Hereford,  both  of  which  are  excellently  adapted 
for  the  production  of  meat.  By  the  crossing  of  these 
with  the  criollo  a mestizo  steer  is  obtained,  capable 
of  turning  the  scale  at  six  hundred  kilos  and  more, 
that  provides  excellent  meat  whether  for  the  purposes 
of  live  shipment,  freezing,  salting,  or  extract.  In 
addition  to  these  more  important  breeds  others  have 
been  introduced,  such  as  the  Devon,  Polled  Angus, 
and  a few  further  varieties — all  these,  however,  in 
a lesser  degree. 

It  will  be  evident  from  this  that  the  improve- 
ments in  stock  have  been  effected  chiefly  with  the 
view  of  increasing  the  quantity  of  meat  produced. 
Nevertheless,  there  are  others  that  have  been  im- 
ported for  dairy  purposes  alone.  The  chief  of  these 
are  the  Dutch,  Norman,  Flemish,  and  Swiss.  It 
must  be  remarked  that  the  popularity  of  these  is 
rapidly  growing,  on  account  of  the  progress  and 
extension  of  the  dairy  industry. 

So  far  as  sheep  are  concerned,  the  breeds  that 
have  been  found  most  suitable  for  the  country  are 
the  Merino,  Lincoln,  Shropshire,  Hampshire,  Romney 
Marsh,  and  Southdown.  The  Merino  race  amidst 
its  new  surroundings  provides  an  especially  fine  class 
of  wool  that  is  appreciated  throughout  the  world  ; 
from  the  crossing  of  the  Merino  with  the  English 

17 


258 


URUGUAY 


breeds  animals  are  obtained  that  provide  the  best 
meat  for  the  purposes  of  export,  and  those  types  of 
wool  that  are  most  in  demand  for  general  commercial 
purposes. 

The  horses  principally  employed  for  saddle 
purposes  and  for  light  draught  are  the  thoroug|h- 
bred,  Yorkshire,  Anglo-Norman,  Irish,  and  Russian, 
while  for  heavy  draught  the  Percheron,  Clydesdale, 
and  Shire  strains  are  the  most  popular. 

The  improvement  in  pig-breeding  has  been  effected 
by  the  introduction  of  several  English  species,  such 
as  the  Yorkshire  and  Berkshire,  the  French  animals 
of  the  kind  being  rarely  employed. 

It  is  by  means  of  the  crossing  with  all  these 
above-mentioned  breeds  that  the  general  live  stock 
of  the  country  has  been  raised  in  degree.  The 
result  has  been  distinctly  favourable,  since  the 
healthy  climate  and  the  pastures  are  eminently 
suitable  for  the  finest  strains  as  well  as  for  the 
cross -breds. 

The  annual  importation  into  Uruguay  of  sires, 
bulls,  and  of  the  remaining  stock  is  now  large.  The 
countries  whence  they  are  derived  are  England  and 
other  European  lands,  Australia,  Argentina,  and 
North  America.  Amongst  these  many  valuable 
animals  are  to  be  met  with.  Thus  recently  two 
champion  rams  have  been  imported  from  Australia, 
various  champion  bulls  and  rams  from1  England, 
while  from  France  came  the  noted  Durham  bull 
“ Tamarin.” 

Uruguay,  however,  does  not  now  depend  entirely 
upon  importations  from  abroad  for  its  pedigree  stock. 
It  already  possesses  a number  of  cabanas , or  breed- 
ing establishments,  from  which  emerge  cattle  and 
sheep  of  a grade  sufficiently  high  to  meet  with  success 
in  the  agricultural  shows  of  other  countries.  These 
are  to  be  distinguished  from  the  estancias,  the  farms 


CHALET  AT  COLONIA  SUIZA. 


THE  VINTAGE  : ESTANCIA  SAN  JUAN. 


To  face  p 258, 


AS  A PASTORAL  COUNTRY  259 


of  larger  area  upon  which  the  general  live  stock  of 
commerce  thrives. 

The  ordinary  estancia  consists  of  a number  of 
paddocks,  separated  the  one  from  the  other  by  wire 
fences,  of  the  natural  pastures  that  abound  in 
Uruguay.  The  advance  that  has  been  effected  in 
these  great  enterprises  is  on  a par  with  that  of  the 
rest.  They  are  as  a rule  well  provided  with  sheds 
for  the  housing  of  the  pedigree  stock  and  with  planta- 
tions of  trees  for  the  shelter  of  the  less  valuable 
type  of  animal,  as  well  as  with  cattle-dips,  water 
deposits,  and  stockyards,  and,  in  fact,  with  every 
installation  that  is  requisite  for  the  purpose  of  the 
industry. 

In  every  department  of  the  Republic  societies  have 
been  founded  in  order  to  encourage  scientific  breed- 
ing, and  to  organise  the  agricultural  shows  that  are 
now  held  throughout  the  country.  These  agricul- 
tural meetings  have  served  a most  useful  purpose 
in  fostering  an  interest  in  breeding  and  in  the  various 
other  branches  of  the  general  national  industries. 
This  fact  has  been  recognised  by  the  Government, 
which,  in  consequence,  has  done  its  utmost  to  stimu- 
late the  holding  of  such  functions.  It  has  thus 
during  the  past  few  years  spent  an  annual  sum  of 
fifty  thousand  dollars  in  the  subsidising  of  these 
events,  an  outlay  that  has  undoubtedly  borne  good 
fruit.  In  providing  these  subsidies  it  is  stipulated 
that  at  least  a third  part  of  the  sum  provided  shall 
be  expended  in  cash  prizes,  and  that  the  chief  atten- 
tion in  this  respect  shall  be  devoted  to  those  particular 
branches  of  industry  that  appear  in  a less  advanced 
condition  than  the  rest,  and  that,  therefore,  are  the 
most  in  need  of  encouragement. 

Many  of  these  agricultural  societies  possess  exten- 
sive grounds  of  their  own  in  the  near  neighbourhood 
of  the  provincial  capital.  In  these  places  permanent 


260 


URUGUAY 


buildings  are  frequently  to  be  met  with  that  are 
employed  for  the  annual  shows.  These  usually  owe 
their  construction  to  private  enterprise,  assisted  by 
the  Government.  In  Montevideo,  too,  there  is  a 
ground  specially  set  apart  for  this  purpose.  Here 
the  Rural  Association  of  Uruguay  holds  the  great 
annual  championship  meeting,  and  the  Government 
has  just  allotted  the  sum  of  a hundred  thousand 
dollars  for  the  purpose  of  improving  the  spot,  and 
for  the  introduction  of  the  very  latest  innovations. 
These  agricultural  shows  have  proved  highly  success- 
ful in  facilitating  the  actual  commercial  transactions 
having  reference  to  live  stock  of  all  descriptions. 
Thus  during  the  past  few  years  the  principal  meet- 
ings alone  have  been  responsible  for  an  annual 
sale  of  over  half  a million  dollars’  worth  of 
animals . 

Although,  as  has  been  explained,  numerous 
products  of  the  pastoral  industry  are  exported  in 
their  natural  state,  there  are  others  which  require 
special  treatment  and  preparation  in  their  country 
of  origin  ere  shipment,  and  which  are  daily  gaining 
in  importance.  The  most  important  institutions 
that  deal  with  these  are  the  meat -curing  factories, 
the  freezing  works,  and  the  establishments  for  pre- 
serving meat  and  for  extracting  its  essence.  These 
chief  industries  we  will  deal  with  at  some  length 
later,  enumerating  first  of  all  some  of  the  side  pro- 
ducts of  lesser  importance,  such  as  the  manufacture 
of  tallow  and  of  hams,  and  that  of  tanning. 

Another  industry  that  bids  fair  to  be  of  supreme 
importance  in  the  future  is  that  of  dairy-farming. 
At  the  present  time  this  is  worked  on  a comparatively 
modest  scale,  since  the  great  majority  of  farms  are 
content  with  the  breeding  and  selling  of  the  cattle. 
Nevertheless,  there  are  several  important  establish- 
ments that  produce  milk,  butter,  and  cheese  for 


AS  A PASTORAL  COUNTRY  261 


the  purposes  of  both  home  consumption  and  of 
export. 

The  chief  amongst  these  establishments  is  that  of 
La  Carolina,  belonging  to  Don  Francisco  Fontana, 
which  occupies  an  area  of  eight  thousand  hectares 
in  the  department  of  Rocha.  No  less  than  five 
thousand  milch  cows  graze  on  this  property,  which 
is  provided  with  steam-driven  machinery  of  the  most 
modern  type.  In  the  department  of  Colonia,  too, 
exists  the  colony  of  Swiss,  who  devote  themselves 
especially  to  this  particular  branch  of  industry.  The 
principal  factory  here  is  that  of  Breuss  and  Frey, 
which  deals  with  thirty  thousand  litres  of  milk  daily, 
and  can  turn  out  twenty-four  thousand  kilos  of  butter 
in  a month.  This  factory  likewise  contains  the  most 
up-to-date  machinery,  and  is  provided  with  freezing 
and  sterilising  apparatus.  This  concern  exports 
cheese  as  well  as  butter. 

These  few  facts  will  give  an  idea  of  the  point  to 
which  the  dairy-farming  industry  in  Uruguay  may 
develop  in  the  near  future,  since  there  exist  several 
millions  of  cows  of  a type  eminently  suitable  for  the 
purpose. 

In  the  Republic  there  are  actually  twenty  saladeros 
in  existence,  of  which  thirteen  are  situated  in 
Montevideo,  seven  on  the  banks  of  the  River 
Uruguay,  and  one  at  Paso  de  los  Toros,  in  the 
interior  of  the  country. 

The  number  of  the  animals  slaughtered  at  these 
saladeros  will  give  an  idea  of  the  importance  of  the 
industry.  During  the  years  1904  and  1908  the  total 
amounted  to  no  less  than  2,763,855  head  of  cattle, 
thus  making  the  average  for  the  year  over  half  a 
million  head.  During  these  five  years  223,872,000 
kilos  of  tasajo , or  dried  meat,  were  prepared,  which 
represent  a yearly  average  of  forty -five  million  kilos. 
The  average  yield  of  the  steers  was  ninety  kilos 
of  tasajo,  that  of  the  cows  sixty  kilos. 


262 


URUGUAY 


The  manner  in  which  this  dried  meat  is  prepared 
in  the  saladeros  is  fairly  simple.  After  the  cattle 
have  been  slaughtered  and  the  veterinary  examina- 
tion has  proved  the  absence  of  any  taint  or  disease 
the  bones  are  separated  from  the  meat,  which  is 
then  shaped  into  various  portions  known  respectively 
as  mantas  and  postas.  Once  dried,  these  are  placed 
in  brine-pans,  and  piled  up,  well  covered  with  salt. 
According  to  the  state  of  the  weather  and  the  con- 
dition to  which  the  meat  is  required  to  attain,  it 
is  placed  in  special  vessels  in  the  sun  for  a period 
varying  between  four  and  six  days,  until  it  is  perfectly 
dry  and  ready  to  be  baled. 

As  will  be  seen  from  this,  salt  and  sun  heat  are 
the  two  principal  agents  that  enter  into  the  manu- 
facture of  tasajo,  two  powerful  agents  that,  it  is 
claimed,  perform  their  task  in  the  simplest  and  most 
hygienic  fashion  possible.  The  slaughtering  season 
in  the  saladeros  generally  begins  in  the  month  of 
November,  and  is  continued  until  January  of  the 
following  year. 

Tasajo,  when  its  manufacture  is  completed,  is 
classified  into  four  grades,  in  accordance  with  the 
fatter  or  leaner  propensities  of  the  meat.  The 
former  kinds  are  exported  principally  to  the  markets 
of  Brazil,  while  the  latter  are  for  the  most  part 
destined  for  consumption  in  Cuba.  Beyond  these, 
however,  there  are  various  other  fields  in  which  tasajo 
plays  a popular  part.  It  is,  for  instance,  sent  in 
fairly  large  quantities  to  the  Portuguese  colonies, 
to  Puerto  Rico,  and  to  Spain  and  Portugal  them- 
selves, as  well  as  to  numerous  less  important  places 
whose  inhabitants  have  learned  to  appreciate  this 
particular  form  of  dried  meat.  The  product  con- 
tains certain  advantages  in  that  its  treatment  is 
simple  throughout.  Thus,  when  once  in  the  hands 
of  its  actual  consumers,  the  salt  has  merely  to  be 


AS  A PASTORAL  COUNTRY  263 


dissolved  from  the  meat  in  order  to  rendeij  it  in 
a condition  prepared  for  the  oven. 

It  is  several  years  now  since  Uruguay  has  com- 
menced to  export  frozen  meat.  Six  years  ago  an 
important  freezing  establishment,  La  Frigorifica 
Uruguaya,  was  founded  in  the  department  of  Monte- 
video on  the  bank  of  the  River  Plate.  The  place 
occupies  a large  extent  of  ground,  and  is 
capable  of  slaughtering  daily  two  hundred  head  of 
cattle  and  two  thousand  sheep.  This  establishment 
is  fitted  up  with  the  most  recent  inventions  that  have 
been  brought  to  bear  on  the  freezing  process.  The 
frozen  beef  is  classified  into  three  qualities,  accord- 
ing to  type  and  weight,  and  is  packed  in  quarters 
in  a double  covering  that  completely  preserves  it 
from  the  danger  of  contact  with  other  substances. 
The  carcasses  of  the  sheep,  following  the  usual 
custom,  are  shipped  entire,  and  covered  in  the 
same  way. 

The  Frigorifica  Uruguaya  began  operations  in 
1905.  The  rapid  increase  in  the  extent  of  its  ship- 
ments may  be  judged  from  the  following  figures. 
Thus,  in  1905,  the  year  of  its  inception,  the  estab- 
lishment exported  two  thousand  tons  of  frozen  meat  ; 
in  1906  the  shipments  had  increased  to  four  thousand 
tons,  whereas  in  1907  the  total  amounted  to  seven 
thousand  and  in  1908  to  nine  thousand  tons.  This 
increase  has  continued  unchecked  during  the  past 
couple  of  years,  and  the  shipments  for  1910  are 
estimated  to  have  amounted  to  no  less  than  twelve 
thousand  tons.  The  machinery  has  now  been 
added  to,  and  the  result  will  certainly  go  to  swell 
these  figures  considerably  more  in  the  near 
future. 

The  benefit  that  this  concern  confers  on  the 
pastoral  industry  is  of  course  very  great.  Not  only 
does  it  increase  the  facilities  for  sale  of  the  cattle, 


264 


URUGUAY 


but  its  existence  tends  in  addition  towards  the  im- 
provement of  breed  in  general,  since  only  the  animals 
of  a superior  class  are  suitable  for  the  purpose  it 
serves. 


CHAPTER  XXIII 

DEPARTMENTS,  CLIMATE,  AND  NATURAL  HISTORY 

The  nineteen  divisions  of  Uruguay — Their  populations,  areas,  towns,  and 
industries — Canelones — Florida — San  Jose — Durazno — Flores — Colo- 
nia — Soriano — Rio  Negro — Paysandu — Salto — Artigas — Tacuarembo 
— Rivera — Cerro  Largo — Treinta  y Tres — Rocha — Maldonado — 
Montevideo — Climate — Favourable  conditions  throughout  the  ^ Re- 
public— The  Atlantic  coast  line — The  summer  season — Pleasantly 
tempered  heat — A land  of  cool  breezes — Its  attractions  as  a pleasure 
resort — Climates  of  the  interior  and  of  the  north — Draught — Locusts 
— Comparative  immunity  of  a pastoral  country — Uruguayan  fauna — 
Some  common  creatures  of  the  Campo — Bird  life— The  ostrich — Its 
value  as  a commercial  asset — The  trade  in  ostrich  feathers — Measures 
for  the  protection  of  the  birds. 


A LIST  of  the  nineteen  departments  of  Uruguay  with 
their  more  salient  features  will  go  far  towards 
explaining  in  detail  the  various  areas,  populations, 
and  resources  of  the  Republic. 

Canelones,  situated  in  the  midst  of  the  depart- 
ments of  Montevideo,  San  Jose,  Florida,  Minas,  and 
Maldonado,  with  a coast -line  upon  the  River  Plate, 
possesses  an  area  of  4,751  square  kilometres.  It 
is  one  of  the  most  populous  departments,  containing 
over  ninety  thousand  inhabitants.  Three  railway- 
lines connect  the  district  with  Montevideo.  Its  chief 
towns  are  Guadeloupe,  Santa  Lucia,  Pando,  and  Las 
Piedras,  each  of  which  contains  some  eight  thousand 
inhabitants.  Canelones  is  mainly  devoted  to  pasture, 
agriculture,  viticulture,  and  general  fruit-growing. 

Florida  is  situated  directly  to  the  north  of  Cane- 

265 


266 


URUGUAY 


lones.  Its  area  is  12,107  square  kilometres  and  its 
population  fifty  thousand.  Two  lines  of  railway 
connect  it  with  Montevideo.  The  chief  town  is 
Florida,  the  capital  of  the  department,  a city  of 
ten  thousand  inhabitants.  Until  recent  years  Florida 
has  been  almost  altogether  given  up  to  the  pastoral 
industry  ; but  of  late  agriculture  has  made  great 
strides . 

San  Jose  is  situated  to  the  west  of  Canelones,  and 
likewise  possesses  a coast-line  on  the  River  Plate. 
Its  area  is  6,932  square  kilometres  ; population  about 
fifty  thousand.  The  department  is  connected  with 
Montevideo  by  two  railway  lines.  The  principal  town 
is  San  Jose  de  Mayo,  with  a population  of  just 
over  twelve  thousand  inhabitants.  Rather  more  than 
half  the  department  is  made  up  of  rich  pasture  - 
lands,  although  the  agricultural  districts  are  increas- 
ing. In  addition  to  fruit-growing  and  viticulture,  the 
timber  industry  of  San  Jose  is  important,  consisting 
of  wood  both  for  building  purposes  and  for  fuel. 

Durazno,  to  the  north  of  Florida,  is  the  most 
central  department  in  the  Republic,  and  contains 
a population  of  fifty  thousand  inhabitants.  It  is 
connected  by  a railway  line  with  Montevideo,  and 
its  chief  city  is  San  Pedro  del  Durazno,  whose 
inhabitants  number  eleven  thousand.  The  depart- 
ment is  essentially  a pastoral  one,  and  is  especially 
well  watered,  being  served  by  the  Rivers  Negro 
and  Yi,  and  by  countless  tributaries  and  smaller 
streams. 

Flores,  situated  to  the  west  of  Durazno,  contains 
twenty  thousand  inhabitants.  Almost  half  this 
number  are  residents  of  the  capital,  Trinidad.  Flores 
is  not  yet  served  by  a railway,  and  it  is  probably 
for  this  reason  that  so  many  of  its  districts,  admir- 
ably adapted  for  agriculture,  still  remain  essentially 
pastoral.  In  Flores  is  a very  curious  grotto, 


DEPARTMENTS,  CLIMATE,  ETC.  267 


sustained  by  natural  arches  and  columns,  that  has 
been  the  source  of  much  geological  controversy. 

Colonia  is  the  richest  and  most  important  depart- 
ment of  all  in  the  Republic.  Lying  to  the  west  of 
San  Jose,  it  has  the  advantage  not  only  of  railways 
but  of  a lengthy  coast-line  on  the  River  Plate.  Agri- 
culture here  has  attained  to  a high  pitch  of  develop- 
ment, and  dairy -farming  constitutes  one  of  the  most 
important  industries  of  the  department.  Fruit  culture 
and  viticulture  are  in  an  equally  advanced  condition, 
while  the  quarrying  of  building  stone  is  now  being 
energetically  carried  on.  In  Colonia  is  situated  the 
Swiss  Colony,  the  inhabitants  of  which  apply  them- 
selves to  agriculture  and  dairy-farming. 

Soriano  lies  to  the  north  of  Colonia,  and  its  western 
boundary  is  likewise  washed  by  the  waters  of  the 
river — no  longer  the  River  Plate,  but  the  Uruguay. 
The  area  of  the  department  is  9,223  kilometres,  and 
its  population  rather  exceeds  forty  thousand.  Soriano 
is  connected  by  railway  with  Montevideo.  Its  chief 
town  is  Mercedes,  the  population  of  which  amounts 
to  ten  thousand  inhabitants.  The  principal  industry 
is  pasture,  although  agriculture  and  general  fruit- 
growing is  carried  on  to  a certain  extent.  Timber, 
charcoal-burning,  and  stone -quarrying  are  responsible 
for  a certain  amount  of  labour.  A fair  quantity  of 
minerals  such  as  iron,  silver,  copper,  and  lead  is 
met  with  here. 

Rio  Negro  is  situated  on  the  Uruguay  River  to  the 
north  of  Colonia.  Its  area  is  8,470  kilometres  and 
its  population  twenty  thousand.  The  department  is 
now  in  the  act  of  being  linked  up  with  the  main 
centres  by  railway.  Its  capital  is  Fray  Bentos, 
a town  celebrated  as  one  of  the  chief  centres 
of  the  manufacture  of  meat  extract,  with  a popula- 
tion of  seven  thousand  inhabitants.  Rio  Negro  is 
essentially  a pastoral  province,  and  is  the  chief  centre 


268 


URUGUAY 


in  the  Republic  for  the  breeding-  of  live  stock,  which 
attains  here  to  an  exceptionally  high  grade  of 
quality.  Rio  Negro  is  one  of  the  most  favourably 
situated  departments  as  regards  water  communica- 
tion. In  addition  to  its  120  kilometres  of  coast-line 
on  the  Uruguay  it  possesses  200  kilometres  of  river 
frontage  on  the  River  Negro. 

Paysandu  bounds  Rio  Negro  to  the  north,  with 
a lengthy  frontage  on  the  Uruguay  River.  Its 
population  is  forty  thousand,  of  which  twenty-one 
thousand  inhabit  the  capital,  Paysandu,  the  second 
town  of  importance  in  Uruguay.  The  area  of  the 
department  is  about  14,000  square  kilometres. 
Paysandu  is  connected  by  railway  both  with  the 
capital  and  the  northern  centres.  Its  industries  are 
chiefly  pastoral  and  agricultural,  and  a number  of 
meat-curing  establishments  exist. 

Salto  is  the  neighbouring  province  to  the  north 
upon  the  River  Uruguay.  It  contains  an  area  of 
12,500  square  kilometres  and  a population  of  rather 
over  fifty  thousand.  Its  chief  town  is  Salto,  that  in 
actual  size  is  said  to  exceed  that  of  Paysandu, 
numbering  as  it  does  rather  over  twenty-two  thousand 
inhabitants.  The  department  is  served  by  railway. 
The  principal  industry  is  that  of  pasture.  The  depart- 
ment, moreover,  is  one  of  the  chief  wine -producing 
centres  of  the  Republic.  Salto  is  rich  in  minerals, 
and  quartz  and  precious  stones  are  met  with  in  fair 
quantities  here. 

Artigas  is  the  northernmost  province  on  the 
Uruguay  as  well  as  in  the  Republic.  Its  area  is 
1 1,300  square  kilometres,  its  population  thirty  thou- 
sand. Its  capital  is  San  Eugenio,  situated  on  the 
Brazilian  frontier,  a town  of  nine  thousand  inhabit- 
ants. The  railway  runs  as  far  as  this  point,  and 
thus  serves  the  length  of  the  province.  Artigas  con- 
tains many  districts  notable  for  minerals,  and  is  well 


DEPARTMENTS,  CLIMATE,  ETC.  269 


endowed  with  precious  stones  such  as  the  amethyst 
and  topaz.  Owing  to  the  northern  situation  of  the 
department  grazing  and  agriculture  are  carried  on 
to  a lesser  extent  than  in  the  majority  of  others. 
The  variety  of  timber  is  important  here,  hard  woods 
being  found  as  well  as  the  softer  varieties. 

Tacuarembo  is  situated  in  the  northern  centre 
of  the  Republic.  That  is  to  say,  its  frontiers  extend 
from  the  centre  to  within  a comparatively  short 
distance  of  the  Brazilian  frontier.  The  department  is 
the  largest  in  Uruguay,  its  territories  extending  over 
more  than  twenty-one  thousand  square  kilometres.  Its 
population,  however,  does  not  exceed  fifty  thousand, 
and  it  is  thus  the  most  sparsely  inhabited  department 
of  the  country.  It  is  served  by  a railway.  The 
principal  town  is  San  Fructuoso,  which  possesses 
eight  thousand  inhabitants.  Tacuarembo  is  for  the 
most  part  devoted  to  agriculture.  Tobacco  flourishes 
in  the  province,  and  recent  experimental  rice  planta- 
tions have  met  with  a fair  amount  of  success.  Gold 
and  manganese  are  met  with  in  various  districts.. 

Rivera  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  Tacuarembo 
and  on  the  north  by  Brazil.  It  is  a fairly  extensive 
department  containing  comparatively  few  inhabitants, 
but  the  precise  figures  of  neither  the  one  nor  the  other 
seem  available.  The  chief  town  of  the  department 
is  Rivera,  a city  situated  on  the  Brazilian  frontier 
that  has  a population  of  ten  thousand.  The  in- 
dustries of  Rivera  are  similar  to  those  of  Tacuarembo. 
The  gold  mines  here  are  of  considerable  importance, 
and  are  in  active  working.  The  department  is  served 
by  railway,  Rivera  being  the  northernmost  Uruguayan 
point  of  the  line  from  Montevideo. 

Cerro  Largo  is  situated  on  the  south-east  of 
Rivera,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north-east  by  Brazil. 
The  area  of  the  department  is  nearly  fifteen  thousand 
square  kilometres  ; population  about  forty-five 


270 


URUGUAY 


thousand.  Its  capital  is  Melo,  a town  of  fourteen 
thousand  inhabitants.  It  is  the  terminus  of  a recently 
constructed  railway-line,  the  entry  of  which  into  the 
country  has  had  the  effect  of  benefiting  local  com- 
merce to  a considerable  extent.  The  principal 
industry  is  pastoral,  but,  in  addition,  a certain 
amount  of  agriculture  is  carried  on. 

Treinta  y Tres,  which  lies  to  the  south  of  Cerro 
Largo,  possesses  an  area  of  9,550  square  kilometres 
and  a population  of  thirty  thousand.  It  has  not  the 
advantage  of  being  served  by  any  railway,  although 
this  will  shortly  occur.  The  principal  town  is  Treinta 
y Tres,  whose  inhabitants  are  about  eight  thousand 
in  number.  Up  to  the  present  time  the  pastoral 
industry  predominates  here,  that  of  agriculture  being 
scarcely  known.  It  is  anticipated,  however,  that  the 
coming  development  of  the  province  will  alter 
this  condition  of  affairs.  The  department  is  well 
wooded,  and  the  timber  industry  here  is  an  important 
one.  Treinta  y Tres  is  bounded  on  the  east  wholly 
by  the  great  Lake  of  Merin,  upon  the  further  shore 
of  which  lies  Brazil. 

Rocha,  to  the  south  of  Treinta  y Tres,  is  also 
bounded  for  the  great  part  of  its  eastern  frontier 
by  Lake  Merin,  although  a small  portion  of  Brazil 
and  a long  stretch  of  Atlantic  Ocean  complete  its 
boundaries  in  this  direction.  The  department  con- 
tains an  area  of  eleven  thousand  kilometres  and  a 
population  of  forty  thousand.  It  is  not  traversed 
by  a railroad.  Its  chief  industry  is  grazing  ; but 
in  some  districts  viticulture  is  in  an  advanced  state. 
The  seal  fishery  affords  an  important  revenue,  and 
the  mineral  products  of  the  country  are  consider- 
able. Copper,  gypsum,  alabaster,  marble,  and  jasper 
obtain  in  considerable  quantities.  The  chief  town 
is  Rocha,  a centre  of  unimportant  size. 

Maldonado  is  situated  on  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  to  the 


DEPARTMENTS,  CLIMATE,  ETC.  271 


west  of  Rocha.  Its  extent  and  population  are  not 
officially  given.  In  a short  while  the  department  will 
be  adequately  served  by  the  railway,  which  has 
already  entered  its  frontiers.  Like  the  great 
majority  of  the  departments  it  is  principally  devoted 
to  pasture.  A certain  amount  of  agriculture  and 
wine-growing  obtains,  and  in  the  southern  districts 
much  timber  has  been  planted.  The  seal  fishery 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Lobos  Island,  off  its  coast, 
is  important.  The  capital  of  the  department  is 
Maldonado,  a small  coastal  town. 

Minas,  to  the  north  of  Maldonado,  has  a population 
of  about  sixty  thousand.  In  addition  to  its  pasture 
and  agriculture,  the  department  is  exceptionally  well 
endowed  with  minerals.  The  capital  is  Minas,  a 
city  of  fourteen  thousand  inhabitants,  that  forms  the 
terminus  of  the  railway-line  from  Montevideo. 

The  department  of  Montevideo  constitutes  the 
small  extent  of  territory  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  capital  itself,  a considerable  portion  of  which  is 
taken  up  by  the  outer  suburbs  of  the  main  town.  The 
country  in  the  neighbourhood  here  is  very  fertile  and 
highly  cultivated. 

There  is  probably  no  climate  in  South  America 
that  offers  greater  attractions  than  that  of 
Uruguay.  Throughout  the  Republic  the  conditions 
are  favourable  ; but  it  stands  to  reason  that 
those  which  obtain  upon  the  coast-line  facing  the 
Atlantic  are  the  most  ideal  of  all.  The  climate  in 
these  neighbourhoods  is  essentially  temperate,  and 
may  be  likened  to  that  of  the  Riviera  of  France, 
without,  however,  suffering  from  the  occasional  winter 
frosts  and  intense  summer  heat  that  characterise  this 
latter  seaboard.  Nevertheless  the  winter  tempera- 
ture of  the  Uruguayan  littoral  when  a southern  wind 
is  blowing  can  be  quite  as  keen  as  is  compatible 
with  comfort. 


272 


URUGUAY 


As  is  the  case  in  the  majority  of  temperate 
countries,  there  is  no  accurately  defined  rainy  or 
dry  reason,  although  the  rains  are  wont  to  be  far 
more  abundant  in  the  winter  months.  The  heat  of 
summer  in  the  south-eastern  provinces  is  very 
seldom  oppressive  ; indeed,  one  of  the  most  striking 
characteristics  of  the  warm  season  is  the  continuance 
of  the  refreshing  and  bracing  airs  that  temper  the 
heat,  and  that  render  midsummer  itself  as  enjoyable 
as  the  delightful  spring  months.  The  climate  of 
Buenos  Aires  is  distinctly  pleasant,  but,  so  far  as 
the  summer  season  is  concerned,  the  difference 
between  that  of  the  capitals  of  Argentina  and 
Uruguay  is  curiously  marked,  when  it  is  taken  into 
consideration  that  not  more  than  120  miles  of  water 
separate  the  two.  The  exceptionally  pleasant  con- 
ditions that  prevail  on  this  portion  of  the  Oriental 
coast  are  acknowledged  by  none  more  readily  than 
by  the  Argentines,  who  flock  there  in  great  numbers 
for  the  purposes  of  bathing  and  general  climatic 
refreshment  in  January  and  February. 

The  wind-swept  uplands  of  the  interior  are 
favoured  in  a similar  degree  when  compared  with 
the  districts  of  the  other  countries  in  corresponding 
latitudes.  In  the  northern  provinces  upon  the 
Brazilian  frontier  the  increase  in  the  normal  tempera- 
ture is,  of  course,  very  distinctly  perceptible,  and 
for  the  first  time  the  vegetation  gives  undoubted 
evidence  of  an  approach  to  the  tropics. 

In  consequence  of  this  temperate  climate  that  it 
enjoys  the  natural  plagues  of  the  Banda  Oriental  are 
few.  Drought,  although  it  occurs  from  time  to  time, 
cannot  be  looked  upon  as  a genuinely  characteristic 
chastening  influence  of  the  land.  The  visitations  of 
locusts  constitute  a more  serious  matter.  These,  as 
in  the  case  of  the  neighbouring  countries,  occur  in 
cycles,  and  the  periods  marked  by  the  presence  of 


STREAM  ON  THE  SAN  JUAN  ESTANCIA. 


DEPARTMENTS,  CLIMATE,  ETC.  273 


the  small  winged  creatures  with  the  insatiable 
appetites  are  unpleasant  enough  for  the  agricul- 
turalist. Owing  to  the  great  pastoral  predominance 
in  Uruguay,  however,  the  country  in  general  suffers 
far  less  than  one  more  devoted  to  the  production  of 
cereals.  kWith  the  spread  of  agriculture  that  is  now 
in  progress  the  question  is  likely  to  become  more 
serious.  But  by  the  time  that  a reasonable  proportion 
of  the  Republic  has  been  brought  under  cultivation 
it  is  possible  that  one  of  the  many  plans  that  are 
continually  being  brought  forward  for  the  extermina- 
tion of  the  locust  curse  may  have  taken  effect. 
Nevertheless,  too  much  reliance  is  not  to  be  placed 
upon  this  very  desirable  consummation. 

The  great  majority  of  Uruguayan  fauna  are 
identical  with  those  of  the  River  Plate  countries  in 
general.  The  animals  most  commonly  to  be  met  with 
in  a journey  through  the  Campo  are  the  carpincho, 
a large,  tailless  water-hog  ; the  nutria,  a creature 
that  closely  resembles  a gigantic  rat,  although  its 
hind  feet  are  webbed  ; the  skunk,  the  opossum,  the 
iguana,  and  the  armadillo. 

In  the  region  of  bird  life  the  larger  varieties  most 
in  evidence  are  the  carancho,  a cross  between  a 
vulture  and  a hawk  ; the  chimangu,  a smaller 
carrion -hawk,  and  a kestrel-hawk  with  brown  body 
and  bright  grey  wings.  Far  rarer  are  the  large 
grey  eagle,  and  the  cuerbo,  or  black  vulture.  Heron 
of  various  species  are  very  plentiful. 

Of  the  smaller  birds  the  teru-tero,  a variety  of 
crested  plover,  is  by  far  the  most  numerous,  although 
certain  districts  exist  in  which  the  duck  and  teal 
run  them  a close  second  in  point  of  numbers,  while 
partridge  and  martineta  are  to  be  met  with  in 
abundance  in  others. 

Amongst  the  more  gorgeous  winged  specimens  of 
the  country  are  the  flamingo,  parrot,  woodpecker, 

18 


274 


URUGUAY 


humming-bird,  and  the  little  black  pecho  Colorado 
with  its  brilliant  scarlet  breast.  Both  the  scissor  bird 
and  the  viuda  (window)  bird  are  aptly  named.  The 
former  rejoices  in  a very  long,  divided  tail  ; the 
latter  is  of  a pure  white  colour  with  a well-defined 
black  border  to  its  wings.  The  “ bien  te  veo,  bicho 
feo  ” is  a mocking-bird  whose  call  closely  resembles 
the  phrase  by  which  it  is  known,  and  the  ornero,  or 
oven  bird,  is  so  called  from  the  curious  structure 
of  its  mud  nest.  The  small  owl,  too,  is  a notable 
inhabitant  of  the  Campo,  as  are  the  dainty  miniature 
doves.  But  to  enter  fully  into  the  animal  life  of  the 
Banda  Oriental  would  require  a book  in  itself  ; there- 
fore it  is  necessary  to  be  content  with  a list  of  the 
varieties  most  commonly  to  be  met  with. 

In  dealing  with  the  category  of  birds  I have  pur- 
posely left  the  ostrich  to  the  last,  as  that  particular 
biped  stands,  as  it  were,  in  a class  of  its  own.  The 
Rhea  Americana  represents  a commercial  asset  of 
no  little  importance,  and  the  grey  companies  of  these 
rather  awkward-looking  creatures  are  carefully 
watched  now  as  they  strut  solemnly  to  and  fro  over 
the  pastures.  The  feathers,  it  is  true,  cannot  as  a 
rule  rival  in  quality  those  of  the  African  bird, 
although  occasionally  some  very  fine  specimens  are  to 
be  met  with.  Indeed,  it  is  said  that  the  large, 
specially  selected  feathers  are  sold  at  prices  that 
range  from  fifteen  dollars  to  twenty-five  dollars  the 
kilo.  The  great  majority  of  the  coarser  feathers  are 
of  little  value,  and  are  employed  for  dusting  brushes 
and  such  similar  purposes. 

That  the  commerce  in  these  ostrich  feathers  is  of 
no  little  importance  becomes  evident  when  the  ship- 
ments of  the  article  are  considered.  In  1908  the 
exports  of  these  to  France,  the  United  States,  Spain, 
and  Germany  amounted  to  fifteen  thousand  kilos, 
while  in  1909  they  had  increased  to  twenty-five 


DEPARTMENTS,  CLIMATE,  ETC.  275 


thousand  kilos.  The  numbers  of  the  ostriches  them- 
selves, however,  have  tended  to  decrease  of  late  years, 
and  it  is  estimated  that  at  the  present  time  there  are 
not  more  than  fifty  thousand  in  the  country.  Realis- 
ing the  danger  incurred  by  this  diminution,  the 
Government  is  now  taking  measures  towards  the 
protection  of  these  very  useful  birds,  and  there  is  no 
doubt  that  judicious  legislation  will  cause  their 
number  to  increase  once  more. 


CHAPTER  XXIV 

INDUSTRIES  AND  NATURAL  WEALTH 

England’s  financial  stake  in  Uruguay — British  capital  invested  in  the 
Republic — Its  monetary  importance  compared  with  that  of  other 
South  American  nations — General  commercial  development  of  the 
country — A satisfactory  outlook — Progress  of  grazing  and  agriculture 
— Marked  increase  in  commerce — Uruguay’s  exports — Cured  meats 
and  frozen  carcasses — Diminution  of  the  former  trade  ; increase  of 
the  latter — Reasons  for  the  transformation  of  industry — An  outcome 
of  Brazilian  protection — The  breeding  of  fine  cattle  for  the  European 
markets — Present  situation  of  the  world’s  meat  market — The  British 
Isles  as  importers  of  meat — The  position  in  the  United  States — A 
change  from  the  role  of  exporter  to  that  of  importer — The  increase 
in  River  Plate  shipments — Closeness  of  touch  between  South  Ameri- 
can and  English  markets — Probable  admission  of  foreign  meat  into 
European  countries — Intervention  of  the  United  States  Beef  Trust 
— Purchase  of  Frigorificos — Possible  effects  of  a monopoly  upon 
the  producers — South  American  views  on  the  subject — Favourable 
general  position  of  the  River  Plate — The  balance  of  power  in  beef— 
Extract  of  meat — The  Lemco  and  Oxo  Company — Ramifications  of 
the  enterprise — The  town  of  Fray  Bentos — Agriculture — Wheat — 
Maize — Barley. 


The  financial  interest  that  England’  possesses  in 
Uruguay  is  not  generally  realised.  As  a matter  of 
fact,  the  amount  of  British  capital  invested  in  the 
Banda  Oriental  amounts  to  over  forty-four  millions 
of  pounds  sterling,  and  there  are  thus  only  two 
nations,  Argentina  and  Brazil,  that  possess  a greater 
share  of  the  total  of  those  funds  invested  in  the 
South  American  continent.  To  the  ears  of  the 
majority,  it  must  be  admitted,  the  names  of  Chile* 

276 


INDUSTRIES  AND  WEALTH  277 


Peru,  Venezuela,  and  Colombia  sound  more  familiar 
than  that  of  the  country  with  which  we  are  at  present 
dealing.  Yet  in  the  matter  of  these  investments 
Chile  alone  can  approach  the  status  of  the  small 
Republic  on  the  River  Plate,  and,  indeed,  falls  behind 
it  only  to  the  extent  of  a few  hundred  thousand 
pounds.  Peru,  however,  is  interested  to  scarcely 
more  than  one-half  of  the  extent,  while  Venezuela, 
the  next  in  order,  cannot  lay  claim  to  one -sixth  of 
the  amount. 

A comparison  such  as  this  will  show  the  real 
financial  importance  that  Uruguay  represents  to 
England,  and,  such  being  admitted,  the  condition 
of  its  commerce  must  be  a matter  of  proportionate 
interest.  To  deal  first  of  all  with  the  general 
commercial  development  of  the  country,  the  outlook 
is  undoubtedly  satisfactory.  In  order  to  obtain  the 
broadest  possible  survey  of  the  situation  it  is 
necessary  to  lump  together  the  national  imports  and 
exports.  Taking  a recent  number  of  five-yearly 
periods,  the  results  obtained  are  : 


$ 


1862-68  

...  ...  109,886,156 

1869-73  ... 

...  158,468,043 

1874-78  

...  148,443,857 

1879-83  

195,757,038 

1884-88  ... 

234,618,354 

1889-93  ... 

261,877,934 

1894-98  ... 

274,137,052 

1899-1903 ... 

...  286,580,824 

1904-08  ... 

338,009,7  77 

dollar  quoted  in 

this  table — and  wherever 

unit  is  employed  throughout  the  book — is,  it  should 
be  explained,  the  Uruguayan  gold  dollar,  the  rough 
value  of  which  may  be  estimated  at  four  shillings 
and  twopence. 

This  steady  development  of  commerce  is  not  a little 
striking  in  view  of  the  fact  that  up  to  the  present 


278 


URUGUAY 


only  a very  small  percentage  of  the  resources  of 
the  country  have  been  brought  to  bear.  It  is  true 
that  the  chief  national  wealth  is  likely,  in  the  future 
as  in  the  past,  to  remain  centred  in  the  rich  natural 
grazing  lands.  But  the  progress  of  agriculture  is 
now  such  that  this  branch  of  industry  cannot  well 
fail  in  the  course  of  a few  years  to  rank  as  a 
moderate  second  in  importance  to  the  business  of 
grazing.  Moreover,  the  development  of  this  latter 
itself  is  only  now  being  proceeded  with  in  a manner 
worthy  of  the  great  resources  that  exist.  The  marked 
increase  in  the  general  commerce  that  is  evident 
between  the  years  1899  and  1908  is  due  to  a very 
large  extent  to  the  introduction  of  modern  methods 
into  the  estancia  life  of  the  country. 

It  is  necessary  now  to  turn  to  a more  detailed  con- 
sideration of  Uruguay’s  exports.  The  chief  of  these, 
as  has  already  been  explained,  is  represented  by 
live  stock,  and  by  meat  in  various  forms.  Of  recent 
years  these  particular  branches  of  industry  have  been 
undergoing  a certain  amount  of  transformation.  For 
generations,  indeed  for  centuries,  Uruguay  has  repre- 
sented the  chief  source  of  Brazil’s  supply  of  animal 
food.  Not  only  were  the  herds  of  cattle  and  flocks 
of  sheep  driven  northwards  with  ceaseless  regularity 
across  the  frontier,  but  the  millions  of  bales  of  dried1 
beef  flowed  along  the  same  channels  too. 

Recent  tevents  have  caused  a certain  diminution  in 
this  commerce.  V^ith  the  course  of  time  Brazil  has 
become  more  and  more  desirous  of  seeing  her  own 
southern  and  comparatively  temperate  provinces  more 
liberally  stocked  with  cattle.  With  the  idea  of 
fostering  the  local  grazing  industry,  the  northern 
republic  has  increased  the  duties  upon  both  imported 
cattle  and  meat.  The  immediate  result  naturally 
proved  unfavourable  both  to  Uruguayan  graziers  and 
saladero  owners.  In  the  end,  however,  the  outcome 


INDUSTRIES  AND  WEALTH  279 


has  proved  beneficial  rather  than  detrimental  to  the 
landowner.  As  may  be  imagined,  for  the  manu- 
facture of  tasajo  a high  grade,  of  cattle  is  not 
necessarily  required.  The  secret  of  the  actual  quality 
of  the  meat  is  to  a great  extent  lost  in  the  dried 
and  hardened  bales  of  the  preserve.  Moreover,  in 
order  to  suit  the  taste  of  local  consumption  in  Brazil 
a far  slenderer  class  of  animal  was  necessary  than  the 
fattened  type  that  the  colder  climates  demand. 

Thus,  when  it  became  necessary  to  make  up  for 
the  deficit  in  these  neighbourly  exports  by  the  opening 
up  of  fresh  markets  and  by  catering  for  the  overseas 
demand,  one  of  the  first  means  to  be  taken  in  hand 
towards  attaining  this  end  was  a yet  more  close 
attention  to  the  question  of  a quality  of  meat  suitable 
for  European  consumption.  There  were  many  who 
foresaw  numerous  difficulties  in  attaining  to  this 
standard,  principally  owing  to  the  comparative 
absence  of  alfalfa  in  the  land.  It  is  true  that  this 
fattening  lucerne  thrives  only  in  limited  areas  of 
Uruguay.  But  to  what  extent  the  excellent  pastures 
of  the  land  have  made  up  for  this  disadvantage  is 
plain  enough  from  the  amount  of  frozen  carcasses 
now  shipped  to  Europe.  The  situation  as  regards 
the  export  of  pastoral  products  has,  in  consequence, 
become  improved.  Less  dried  meat  and  fewer  live 
cattle  are  sent  to  Brazil,  but  the  deficiency  is  more 
than  counterbalanced  by  shipments  of  a superior 
order  to  the  new  markets  now  established  in  Europe. 

The  present  situation  of  the  meat  markets  through- 
out the  world  has  reached  so  vitally  important  a 
stage  that  a few  comments  on  the  position  cannot 
well  come  amiss  in  view  of  its  inevitable  direct 
influences  upon  Uruguay,  and  the  similar  stock- 
raising  countries.  Naturally  enough,  the  primary 
centres  of  interest  are  to  be  found  in  the  United 
States,  and  in  its  Beef  Trust.  Ere  coming  to  this 


280 


URUGUAY 


point,  however,  it  would  be  as  well  to  review  the 
general  situation. 

Until  the  present  moment  the  British  Isles  have 
been  the  chief  importers  of  frozen  and  chilled  meat 
from  both  North  and  South  America.  The  demand 
has,  naturally  enough,  shown  an  annual  increase 
corresponding  with  the  growth  of  the  population., 
A similar  state  of  affairs  has,  of  course,  existed  in 
North  America,  but  here  the  increase  of  the  inhabit- 
ants has  been  so  rapid  and  so  overwhelming  that 
the  breeding  of  cattle  has  been  entirely  unable  to 
progress  in  the  same  ratio.  The  result  of  this  is 
that  the  United  States  can  now  produce  only  a com- 
paratively insignificant  surplus  over  and  above  the 
quantity  of  animal  food  that  is  required  for  con- 
sumption by  its  own  inhabitants.  Of  late,  therefore, 
the  shipments  of  North  American  beef  to  the  British 
Isles  have  decreased  with  a rather  startling  celerity, 
and  there  can  be  no  question  that  in  the  near  future 
the  trade  will  have  ceased  altogether.  Exactly  when 
this  will  occur — whether  in  two  years  or  half  a dozen 
—it  is  impossible  for  even  the  experts  to  tell,  since 
so  many  elements  of  the  unexpected  enter  into  the 
question.  But  that  it  will  come  about  is  certain, 
and  it  is,  of  course,  equally  inevitable  that  the  con- 
clusion of  the  period  of  exportation  will  mark  the 
beginning  of  another  era  when  it  will  be  necessary 
for  the  United  States  to  import  her  animal  food 
supply  from  countries  outside  her  own  frontiers. 

In  the  meanwhile  Argentina  has  stepped  into  the 
gap  that  North  America  had  of  necessity  left  vacant, 
and  the  establishment  of  its  f rigor ifico  will  now  enable 
Uruguay  to  take  a hand  in  this  business  of  shipping. 
The  River  Plate  countries  are  undoubtedly  in  a : posi- 
tion to  cope  with  the  situation  for  an  indefinite  period 
of  years,  although  its  effects  are  already  evident  to 
a certain  extent  upon  the  local  markets  of  Argentina. 


THE  CATTLE  Dip. 


DRYING  JERKED  MEAT. 


To  face  p.  280. 


/ 


' 


1 


INDUSTRIES  AND  WEALTH  281 


In  the  latter  country  I have  been  present  lat  the 
stockyards  in  November  when  the  herds  of  cattle  that 
had  arrived  from  the  Campo  were  being  sold.  The 
faces  of  those  estancieros  who  were  present  were 
beaming,  for  prices  were  ruling  quite  exceptionally 
high.  The  reason  lay  in  the  demand  for  the  London 
Christmas  beef  that  had  sent  its  stimulus  all  this 
distance — an  emphatic  proof  of  the  closeness  of  touch 
that  now  obtains  between  the  River  Plate  and  the 
British  Isles. 

Were  the  position  to  begin  and  end  at  this  point 
it  would  be  simple  enough.  Some  developments, 
however,  have  occurred  of  late  that  render  the  outlook 
for  the  future  far  more  complicated.  There  seems 
very  little  doubt  that  the  time  will  come  when 
England  will  no  longer  enjoy  the  practical  monopoly 
of  imported  beef.  The  desire  for  the  admission  of 
this  commodity  in  several  of  the  great  European 
countries  is  becoming  more  and  more  accentuated, 
and  it  is  highly  probable  that  the  agitation  that  is 
now  being  carried  on  in  favour  of  this  new  departure 
will  eventually  result  in  the  breaking  down  of  the 
barriers  that  at  present  oppose  the  trade.  It  is, 
of  course,  impossible  to  estimate  the  full  extent  of 
the  consequences  of  a move  of  the  kind,  but  that 
it  must  cause  a rise  in  the  price  of  beef  in  the  English 
markets  is  inevitable. 

In  the  face  of  these  possibilities  the  prospects  of 
the  River  Plate  countries  are,  of  course,  more  favour- 
able than  ever  before.  With  the  markets  of  Europe 
open  to  their  cattle  and  meat,  the  added  stimulus 
toi  the  industries  of  these  countries  cannot  fail  to 
be  enormous.  But  here  again  an  element  has  come 
into  being  that,  although  it  will  have  no  effect  upon 
the  industry,  taken  as  a whole,  must  necessarily 
threaten  many  of  the  interests  involved.  The  Beef 
Trust  of  the  United  States  has  been  keenly  alive 


282 


URUGUAY 


to  the  great  pastoral  developments  in  South  America. 
Accurately  foreseeing  that  the  importance  of  the 
present  day  is  merely  a prelude  to  what  is  to  come, 
the  great  corporation  has  now  descended  wholesale 
upon  the  shores  of  the  River  Plate,  has  already 
bought  up  a number  of  frigorificos,  and  it  will  be 
through  no  want  of  endeavour  of  its  own  if  it  does 
not  sooner  or  later  acquire  the  remainder. 

I have  no  desire  to  tilt  against  the  Beef  Trust, 
which  is  very  probably  an  excellent  institution,  but 
one  that,  since  it  openly  lays  no  claim  to  a purely 
philanthropical  policy,  cannot  be  expected  to  safe- 
guard the  welfare  of  concerns  that  do  not  tend  to- 
wards its  own  advancement.  Should  this  corporation, 
therefore,  attain  its  present  object  of  securing  the 
frigorificos,  and  the  consequent  monopoly  of  the 
purchase  of  cattle  for  export,  the  actual  producers 
of  the  live  stock  will  find  themselves  face  to  face 
with  a situation  of  which  they  have  previously  had 
no  experience.  It  is  quite  possible  that  it  will  suit 
the  corporation  to  buy  the  cattle  at  prices  similar 
to  those  which  now  obtain — or  it  may  not,  since  it 
is  well  known  that  the  estanciero  continued  to  exist 
in  a more  or  less  affluent?  fashion  when  his  cattle  sold 
at  lower  rates  than  is  the  case  at  the  present  day. 

In  any  case  the  matter  seems  to  be  taken  fairly 
lightly  in  the  South  American  countries  most  con- 
cerned. The  prevalent  idea  is  that,  should  the 
danger  be  realised,  it  is  easy  to  legislate  against 
trusts — a theory  that  may,  or  may  not,  be  correct. 
Putting  aside  for  the  moment,  however,  these  possible 
complications,  it  will  be  clear  that  the  position  of 
the  River  Plate  countries  as  regards  the  shipment 
of  their  beef  is  quite  exceptionally  favourable.,  So 
much  so,  indeed,  that  it  is  not  without  the  bounds 
of  possibility  that  the  spread  of  agriculture  may  at 
some  future  period  receive  a check  in  favour  of 


INDUSTRIES  AND  WEALTH  283 


the  purely  pastoral  industry.  For  the  wheat  and 
maize-producing  lands  are  considerably  in  excess  of 
those  that  raise  cattle  in  sufficient  quantities  for 
serious  export.  Fresh  areas  suitable  for  wheat- 
growing, moreover,  are  continually  being  lit  upon, 
whereas  the  discovery  of  new  grazing  lands  is 
obviously  more  limited.  It  is  true  that  our  own 
colony  of  Rhodesia  promises  to  take  an  important 
share  in  the  cattle-breeding  industry — a promise  the 
fulfilment  of  which  may  be  anticipated  with  con- 
fidence. With  this  exception,  the  countries  of  the 
River  Plate  will  undoubtedly  hold  the  balance  of 
power  in  all  matters  appertaining  to  that  very,  very 
important  article  beef. 

In  addition  to  that  of  the  carcasses  themselves, 
another  very  important  product  of  Uruguay  is  the 
extract  of  meat  produced  by  the  Liebig  (Lemco) 
Company.  Fray  Bentos  was  the  original  home  of 
this  industry,  with  which  the  place  has  been  associated 
since  1865.  Of  late  years  the  Lemco  interests  have 
spread  far  beyond  their  original  frontiers,  for  of  the 
total  of  nearly  five  million  acres  at  present  owned 
by  the  concern  many  hundred  thousands  of  acres  exist 
in  Argentina,  Paraguay,  and  even  in  Rhodesia.  As 
a matter  of  fact,  the  working  power  of  the  recently 
constructed  factory  at  Colon  in  Entre  Rios,  upon 
the  Argentine  bank  of  the  river,  exceeds  that  of 
Fray  Bentos.  Nevertheless,  the  importance  of  this 
latter  place  will  be  evident  enough  when  it  is 
explained  that  in  1910  over  one  hundred  and  seventy- 
nine  thousand  head  of  cattle  were  slaughtered  there 
in  order  to  provide  the  necessary  extract  of  meat. 

The  Lemco  town  of  Fray  Bentos  is  by  way  of 
being  a model  specimen  of  its  kind.  The  establish- 
ments of  the  managers  here,  and  the  dwellings  of 
the  workmen  are  each  admirable  of  their  kind,  and 
very  replete  with  the  comforts  and  luxuries  that 


284 


URUGUAY 


appertain  to  the  various  walks  of  life.  The  streets; 
moreover,  are  broad  and  well-engineered,  and  the 
schools  and  various  institutions  denote  a liberal  spirit 
on  the  part  of  the  directors  of  the  concern. 

To  turn  from  the  meat  industry  to  that  of  agri- 
culture, we  come,  naturally  enough,  to  a far  less 
imposing  condition  of  affairs,  but  one,  nevertheless^ 
that  is  increasing  in  importance  each  year.  The  chief 
cereal  of  Uruguay  is  wheat.  At  the  present  moment 
nearly  three  hundred  thousand  hectares  have  been 
devoted  to  the  raising  of  this  crop.  Although  the 
discovery  of  fresh  lands  suitable  to  the  production 
of  wheat  has  claused  this  particular  area  to  increase, 
the  main  centres  in  cultivation  up  to  the  present  have 
been  rather  strictly  localised.  The  provinces  that 
contain  the  really  impprtant  wheat  districts  are  those 
of  San  Jose,  Colonia,  and  Canelones.  The  lines  of 
railway,  however,  that  have  recently  been  constructed 
to  the  east  and  west  of  the  Republic  are  opening 
up  much  land  that  is  undoubtedly  admirably  suited 
for  the  production  of  this  cereal.  Wheat,  it  may 
be  explained,  is  a crop  the  nature  of  which  renders 
it  more  immune  than  the  majority  from  the  attacks 
of  the  voracious  locust.  By  the  time  the  all-devouring 
insect  is  wont  to  make  its  appearance,  the  ears  of 
the  wheat  are  as  a rule  hardened  to  a sufficient  extent 
to  render  them  unpalatable.  Wheat  therefore,  fre- 
quently escapes,  wholly  or  in  part,  where  the  maize 
crop  suffers  severely  from  the  ravages  of  the  locusts. 

The  production  of  maize  is  only  very  slightly  less 
than  that  of  wheat.  The  yield  of  this  commodity 
in  1909  amounted  roughly  to  one  hundred  and  seventy 
thousand  tons,  while  that  of  wheat  fell  just  below 
two  hundred  and  thirty-four  thousand  tons.  Generally 
speaking,  it  may  be  said  that  the  districts  where 
wheat  is  grown  are  suitable  for  the  cultivation  of 
maize,  and  thus  in  Uruguay  the  two  are  wont  to 


INDUSTRIES  AND  WEALTH  285 


flourish  to  a large  extent  side  by  side.  It  is  worthy 
of  note,  however,  that  whereas  the  wheat  area  has 
remained  more  or  less  stationary,  although  its 
development  is  now  practically  certain,  that  of 
maize  has  increased  to  a marked  extent — from 
one  hundred  and  forty-five  thousand  hectares,  in  fact, 
in  1900  to  over  two  hundred  thousand  hectares 
in  1909. 

The  production  of  oats  and  barley — although  that 
of  either  still  remains  comparatively  insignificant— 
has  increased  rapidly  during  the  past  decade.  In 
1900  the  output  of  oats  only  just  exceeded  thirty 
tons,  whereas  in  1909  it  had  amounted  to  nearly 
seven  thousand  tons.  Barley  has  a similar,  although 
a somewhat  more  gradual,  tale  to  tell,  since  in  the 
corresponding  period  its  production  rose  from  four 
hundred  to  three  thousand  tons. 


CHARTER  XXV 


INDUSTRIES  AND  NATURAL  WEALTH  (continued) 

Minerals-—Past  obstacles  to  the  proper  working  of  mines — Gold — Auri- 
ferous prospects — Situation  of  the  goldfields  of  Uruguay — Past  and 
present  workings  of  the  mines — Influence  of  politics  on  labour — The 
Corrales  mines — Manganese — Districts  in  which  iron  ore  is  met  with 
— Mineral  centres — Minas — Maldonado — Silver — Copper — Marble — 
Gypsum — Slate — Sulphur — Asbestos — Precious  stones — Diamonds  and 
rubies — Jasper — Agate — The  amethyst  and  topaz — The  waterstone — 
A peculiarity  of  Uruguay — Viticulture — Date  of  the  introduction  of 
the  vine — Vicissitudes  at  the  start — Subsequent  rapid  progress — Vine- 
yard area  of  the  present  day — The  introduction  of  suitable  plants — 
Countries  of  origin — Production  of  grapes  and  wine — Departments 
most  suitable  to  the  industry — The  seal  fisheries — Originally  carried 
on  by  the  Indians — Habits  of  the  seals — Development  of  the  industry 
— Government  grants — Conditions  and  concessions — Number  of  skins 
obtained  since  1873 — Islands  inhabited  by  the  seals — Method  of 
killing  and  curing — Waste  of  seal  life — Suggestions  for  the  improve- 
ment of  the  industry — Scientific  measures  necessary — A diplomatic 
incident  in  connection  with  the  seal  fisheries. 


It  is  quite  possible  that  Uruguayan  minerals  may 
yet  cause  something  of  a sensation  throughout  the 
world.  In  the  past  her  deposits  of  the  kind  have 
lain  comparatively  undisturbed,  owing  to  similar 
reasons  that  have  hampered  the  industry  in  Peru 
and  Bolivia — want  of  transport  facilities.  With  the 
rapid  spread  of  the  railways,  however,  these  dis- 
advantages will  shortly  become  minimised,  when  no 
doubt  considerably  more  will  be  heard  of  the  mineral 
wealth  of  the  country. 

Let  it  be  clear  that  I am  not  making  the  following 


INDUSTRIES  AND  WEALTH  287 


remarks  in  the  character  of  a mining  expert.  The 
latter  profession,  according  to  vulgar  report,  is  at 
times  not  averse  to  fiction  ; but  the  gap  that  separates 
an  author  from  a goldfield  is  uncomfortably  wide. 
This  apparently  frivolous  foreword  is  not  altogether 
uncalled  for,  since  to  speak  with  undue  optimism  of 
the  presence  of  the  yellow  dross  is  dangerous  to  the 
layman  writer,  and  profitable  only  to  the  expert. 
Nevertheless,  the  auriferous  prospects  of  Uruguay, 
so  far  as  such  can  ever  be  assured,  give  no  small 
promise  of  success. 

The  chief  goldfields  of  Uruguay  lie  in  the  northern 
province  of  Rivera,  and  are  situated  in  the  neigh- 
bourhoods of  Corrales,  Cunapiru,  and  Zapucaya.  A 
district  here  of  from  thirty-five  to  forty  miles  in 
length  and  of  about  seven  miles  in  breadth  is  thickly 
interwoven  with  auriferous  reef.  The  knowledge  of 
the  wealth  in  this  particular  spot  is  no  new  thing, 
as  ancient  superficial  workings  on  the  part  of  the 
Indians  prove.  From  that  time  the  mines  had 
apparently  fallen  into  disuse  until  comparatively 
recent  years,  when  they  were  in  a sense  rediscovered 
by  a French  company.  The  concern,  it  is  true,  met 
with  a consistent  lack  of  prosperity.  The  actual 
working  is  said  to  have  been  carried  on  in  a fashion 
that  was  both  half-hearted  and  old-fashioned.  The 
period,  moreover,  was  a peculiarly  disturbed  one 
from  a political  point  of  view,  and  the  province  of 
Rivera  has  always  been  famed  as  the  birthplace  and 
chosen  haunt  of  revolutionary  movements.  An 
English  company,  however,  has  now  assumed  control 
of  the  mines,  a modern  plant  is  at  work,  and  gold 
is  actually  being  yielded. 

Such  are  the  bare  historical  facts  of  the  chief 
mines  at  Corrales.  According  to  the  experts,  reefs 
have  been  met  with  that  will  yield  five  ounces  to 
the  ton,  and,  should  the  reefs  prove  deep,  the 


288 


URUGUAY 


prospects  are  practically  limitless.  But  this  remains 
to  be  seen.  In  the  meanwhile  the  earth  has 
promised  ! But  its  promises,  like  its  crust  in  parts, 
are  sometimes  of  pielike  material.  In  this  case, 
should  the  anticipations  be  realised,  there  will  be 
no  little  stir  in  the  province  of  Rivera — and  elsewhere. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  these  mines  are  enormous 
deposits  of  manganese  that  are  just  now  beginning 
to  attract  special  attention.  The  quantities  of  iron, 
too,  that  are  to  be  met  with  here  are  rather  excep- 
tional. Rivera,  however,  constitutes  by  no  means 
the  sole  mineral  district  of  Uruguay.  The  provinces 
of  Minas,  Artigas,  Maldonado,  Salto,  Paysandu, 
Montevideo,  and  San  Jose  are  all  more  or  lessi  well 
endowed  with  the  various  species. 

Of  these  remaining  centres  Minas  is  probably  the 
richest.  Traces  of  gold  are  to  be  met  with  here, 
although  in  a minor  degree,  and  silver,  copper, 
marble,  gypsum,  slate,  sulphur,  and  asbestos  would 
probably  all  repay  organised  handling.  Minas  also 
produces  lead,  but  this,  too,  has  suffered  from  con- 
siderable neglect.  Indeed,  I believe  that  one  of  the 
very  few  ransackings  of  the  mines  that  have  occurred 
was  for  the  purpose  of  manufacturing  bullets  for 
the  armies  during  the  revolutionary  and  civil  wars 
at  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century. 

The  province  of  Maldonado  contains  copper,  iron, 
marble,  gypsum,  sulphur,  and  slate,  and  here,  too,  the 
mineral  field  has  remained  almost  unexploited  up  to 
the  present.  Montevideo  holds  manganese  and  iron, 
Salto  copper,  Florida  iron,  Paysandu  copper,  and 
San  Jose  asbestos.  These,  at  all  events,  constitute 
the  principal  centres  of  the  minerals  specified, 
although  there  are  others  of  comparative  insignifi- 
cance in  many  other  districts. 

Uruguay,  too,  is  by  no  means  without  its  precious 
stones.  Odd  rubies  and  diamonds  have  been  met 


INDUSTRIES  AND  WEALTH  289 


with  from  time  to  time,  and  the  jasper  and  agate 
are  fairly  common.  The  stones,  however,  that  obtain 
in  really  considerable  numbers,  and  that  are  conse- 
quently of  the  chief  commercial  interest,  are  the 
amethyst  and  the  topaz.  Of  both  these  some  mag- 
nificent specimens  are  to  be  met  with  in  the  Province 
of  Artigas.  These  very  handsome  stones  are  now 
attaining  a'  distinct  popularity  amongst  the  visitors 
to  Montevideo.  To  those  who  have  not  the  oppor- 
tunity of  visiting  the  remote  province  of  Artigas  itself, 
it  may  be  mentioned  that  Agosto  Wild,  in  the  Calle 
Veinte  Cinco  de  Mayo  in  Montevideo,  is  a most 
trustworthy  and  reliable  dealer. 

A peculiarity  of  Uruguay  is  the  waterstone  that 
is  met  with  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Salto.  This 
consists  of  a rounded  portion  of  stone,  more  or  less 
knobbly  and  opaque  or  smooth  and  transparent  as 
the  case  may  be.  In  the  latter  the  water  that  is 
enclosed  within  it  is  almost  as  plainly  seen  as  though 
it  were  held  within  rather  dull  glass,  and  with  every 
movement  of  the  crystal -like  material  the  motion  and 
bubblings  of  the  water  are  very  clearly  evident. 
There  have  been  some  mental  gymnastics  ere  now 
concerning  the  advent  of  the  apple  within  the 
dumpling  ; but  the  presence  of  this  water  within 
the  stone  suffices  to  puzzle  the  more  scientific  minds. 
So  far  as  I am  aware,  no  adequate  explanation  of 
the  phenomenon  has  yet  been  vouchsafed. 

Viticulture  is  one  of  the  more  recent  industries  of 
Uruguay.  It  has  now,  however,  obtained  a firm 
hold,  and  the  future  of  the  commerce  is  distinctly 
promising.  It  was  as  late  as  i860  that  the  first 
tentative  plantings  of  the  vine  occurred,  and  it  was 
not  until  1875  that  a couple  of  really  important 
vineyards  were  established,  one  at  Colon  and  the 
other  at  Salto,  in  the  north-west  of  the  republic. 
Even  then  the  undertaking  did  not  meet  with 

19 


290 


URUGUAY 


immediate  success,  and  it  was  some  while  ere  the 
type  of  plant  was  discovered  that  would  lead  to  the 
most  favourable  results  in  the  local  soil. 

This,  however,  once  discovered,  the  progress  of 
viticulture  has  proceeded  almost  without  a,  check. 
The  rapidity  of  its  increase  may  be  gathered  from 
the  following  figures.  In  1880  the  number  of  vine- 
yards in  Uruguay  was  16  ; in  1890,  181  ; whereas 
in  1895  the  total  had  swollen  to  748.  Since  that 
time  the  industry  has  continued  to  spread.  Thus 
in  1897  the  vineyards  had  increased  in  number  to 
824,  while  in  1905  the  viticultural  census  showed 
the  very  respectable  total  of  1,453. 

It  is  only  natural  that  this  great  increase  in  vine- 
yards should  have  been  accompanied  by  the  introduc- 
tion of  a greater  variety  of  suitable  plants.  The  types 
of  vines  that  n,ow  flourish  in  Uruguay  hail  from 
France,  Italy,  Spain,  Portugal,  and  Germany,  the 
importance  of  the  various  kinds  being  in  accordance 
with  the  seniority  rendered  them  in  order  here.  Of 
the  French  species  introduced  the  most  popular  are 
the  Sauvignon,  Cabernet,  Pinot  Noir,  Castel,  Merlot, 
Verdot,  Semilion,  Sauvignon  blanc,  Clairette  blanche, 
and  some  half-dozen  others  ; of  the  Italian  the 
Piamonte,  Grignolino  Negro,  Asprino,  Docetto, 
Leonarda,  Lambrusca,  Cipro  Negro,  and  Verdea. 
The  favourite  Spanish  varieties  are  the  Carinana, 
Morrastel  Bouchet,  Murviedo,  Malvosia  Blanca,  Pedro 
Ximinez,  while  from  Portugal  have  been  introduced 
the  black  and  the  white  grape,  and  from  Germany 
the  Riesling. 

The  cultivation  of  the  vineyards  is  attended  by 
the  greatest  expense  in  the  south  of  the  country, 
where  the  comparatively  humid  climate  lends  itself 
more  readily  to  the  propagation  of  the  various 
diseases  to  which  the  vine  is  subject.  Here  the 
American  grape,  owing  to  its  immunity  from 


INDUSTRIES  AND  WEALTH  291 


phyloxera  in  a great  degree,  flourishes  admirably. 
The  departments  in  which  viticulture  is  chiefly  carried 
on  are  at  Montevideo,  that  possesses  a vineyard  area 
of  1,426  hectares  ; Salto,  719  hectares  ; Canelones, 
699  hectares  ; Colonia,  490  hectares  ; Maldonado, 
330  hectares  ; Paysandu,  177  hectares  ; Florida, 
132  hectares  ; Soriano,  125  hectares  ; and  Artigas, 
97  hectares.  In  the  remaining  departments  the 
viticultural  industry  is  of  small  account. 

The  later  increase  in  the  actual  production  of 
grapes  and  wine  will  be  evident  from  the  following 
table  : 


Kilos  of  Grapes. 

Litres  of  Wine. 

1904  

16,387,738 

10,458,119 

1905  

20,304,850 

11,569,314 

1906  

16,408,077 

9,469,674 

1907  

19,385,569 

11,461,817 

1908  ...  

28,753,259 

18,563,496 

The  sealing  industry  of  Uruguay  is  of  considerably 
greater  importance  than  is  generally  supposed.  Mr. 
C.  E.  R.  Rowland,  the  British  Consul  at  Montevideo, 
is  the  leading  English  authority  on  the  subject.  The 
following  article,  then,  which  he  has  kindly  supplied, 
may  be  taken  as  authoritative  : 

The  aboriginal  races  of  this  part  of  South  America 
were  known  to  have  resorted  to  the  coast-line  during 
the  summer  months  for  their  fishing  expeditions,  the 
Indian  race  of  the  Charruas  occupying  the  coast- 
line from  above  the  river  town  of  Colonia  to  the 


292 


URUGUAY 


borders  of  the  Brazilian  frontier  at  al  Chile,  on  the 
Atlantic. 

Traces  of  their  encampment  grounds  are  still  to 
be  found  along  this  coast,  principally  from  Mal- 
donado to  the  Brazilian  frontier,  where  many  of 
their  primitive  weapons  and  utensils  are  still  to  be 
met  with,  and  also  the  remains  of  what  must  have 
been  their  watch-fires,  mounds  of  burnt  bones,  con- 
taining amongst  the  rest  bones  and  teeth  of  seals 
which  crumble  under  touch. 

This  coast  in  these  former  times  evidently 
abounded  in  seal  life,  as  the  natural  conditions 
offered  every  attraction  to  these  now  timid  animals. 
A storm-beaten  coast,  with  plentiful  havens,  in  the 
mouth  of  a large  estuary  abounding  with  fish,  enticed 
the  seals  to  the  shore  and  made  them  an  easy  prey 
to  the  Indians,  but  time  has  driven  them  to  the 
present  rookeries  which  now  afford  them  protection. 

The  first  record  of  the  sealing  industry  on  the 
coast  of  Uruguay  having  been  put  to  practical 
purposes  is  that  in  the  year  1834  they  were  rented 
by  the  Government  for  the  period  of  ten  years  to 
Sen  or  Francisco  Aguilar  for  the  sum  of  $80,000. 
The  condition  was  imposed  that  he  should  erect  a 
suitable  edifice  to  be  used  as  a public  school  in  the 
town  of  Maldonado.  This  latter  condition  was 
altered  insomuch  that  the  building,  when  completed, 
was  used  as  a chapel,  and  has  remained  so  ever 
since. 

From  the  termination  of  this  contract  up  to  the 
year  1858  this  industry  was  worked  by  various 
tenants,  but  in  this  latter  year  the  Government 
passed  a Law  imposing  a tax  of  20  centavos  per* 
skin  and  4 centavos  per  1 o kilos  of  seal  oil,  to 
be  paid  in  equal  proportions  to  the  municipalities 
of  Maldonado  and  Rocha  Departments,  on  whose 
coasts  the  islands  ^re  situated.  A further  Law  in 


A SEAL  ROOKERY. 


BASKING  SEALS. 


To  face  p.  292. 


/ 


INDUSTRIES  AND  WEALTH  293 


the  year  1896  doubled  these  taxes,  which  were 
destined  by  the  said  Law  to  be  applied  by  the 
municipal  authorities  to  the  public  works  and  the 
creation  of  artificial  parks. 

The  following  tables  will  show  the  number  of  skins 
produced  from  these  islands  since  the  year  1873  : 


Year. 

i873 

Skins. 

8,190 

1874 

... 

9,449 

i875 

9,204 

I876 

n,353 

1877 

... 

... 

11,066 

1878 

... 

14,493 

1879 

... 

14,093 

1 880 

16,382 

l88l 

14,473 

1882 

13,595 

1883 

12,483 

I884 

14,872 

1885 

... 

12,245 

1886 

... 

... 

17,072 

1887 

... 

17,788 

1888 

... 

21,150 

1889 

... 

i5,7oo 

I89O 

20,150 

I89I 

13,871 

1892 

15,870 

1893 

14,779 

1894 

20,763 

1895 

... 

I7,47i 

I896 

Island  Coronilla  Island  Lobos 
11,096  ...  12,543 

1897 

9,091 

10,143 

I898 

... 

8,908 

8,778 

1899 

9,339 

7,796 

1900 

... 

8,983 

9,845 

1901 

8,023 

8,215 

1902 

... 

9,785 

11,468 

1903 

... 

5,899 

7,929 

1904 

5,H4 

5,765 

1905 

2,246 

3,387 

1906 

4,871 

7,212 

1907 

... 

2,880 

7,612 

294 


URUGUAY 


The  islands  inhabited  by  seals  on  the  coast  of 
Uruguay  are  : 


Castillos  Rocks 
Polonio  ... 
Paloma  ... 
Lobos  ... 


4 small  islands 
3 


The  Castillos  Rocks  are  very  difficult  of  access 
on  account  of  the  heavy  swell  breaking  on  them. 
The  Polonio  group  consists  of  three  small  islands 
lying  directly  off  the  cape  of  same  name,  and  are 
called  Raza,  Encantado,  and  De  Marco. 

The  sealers’  huts  and  boiling-house  are  on  the 
mainland  in  a small  bay  to  the  north-east  of  the 
lighthouse.  The  seals  when  killed  on  these  islands 
are  skinned  with  the  inside  lining  of  fat  attached 
and  are  brought  on  shore,  when  the  inside  lining 
of  fat  is  taken  off  and  boiled  down.  The  dead 
carcasses  are  left  on  the  island,  and  in  my  opinion 
the  presence  of  so  many  dead  seals  destroyed  by 
human  agency  must  have  some  effect  upon  those 
animals  frequenting  these  islands,  making  them  wary 
and  cautious  in  returning  again  to  a place  where 
the  remains  of  their  companions  are  so  visible. 

Coronilla  Islands  consist  of  two  large  islands, 
covered  with  herbage,  and  one  small  “ islote ,”  or 
reef,  generally  awash  with  the  sea. 

On  the  largest  of  these  islands  the  sealers  live 
during  the  season  for  the  purpose  of  salting  the  skins 
and  boiling  down  the  carcass  of  the  seals  for  oil. 
At  the  end  of  the  season  the  skins  and  oil  are  brought 
into  Montevideo  by  tug -boats. 

On  Lobos  Islands  the  killing  is  carried  out  in  a 
different  manner.  A large  corral  is  erected  on  the 
middle  of  the  island,  and,  when  seals  are  plentiful 
and  the  wind  and  weather  are  specially  favourable, 
a drive  is  made  by  about  fifty  men  with  clubs, 


INDUSTRIES  AND  WEALTH  295 


who,  getting  between  the  seals  and  the  sea, 
drive  them  gently  towards  the  corral.  This  is 
done  without  much  difficulty,  and  perhaps  two 
thousand  may  be  enclosed  in  one  day.  Once 
enclosed  they  are  allowed  to  wait  until  all  prepara- 
tions for  killing  are  complete.  They  are  then  driven 
out  in  batches  of  twenty  or  thirty  to  the  skinning  - 
shed  and  boiler-house,  where  they  are  dispatched 
at  leisure. 

By  this  mode  of  killing  I am  inclined  to  think 
that  there  must  be  a great  waste  of  seal  life  from 
an  absence  of  a proper  knowledge  as  reagrds  the 
animal  killed.  No  selection  is  made  from  those 
driven  down,  and  every  animal  is  killed  even  if  the 
skin  is  worthless  or  mangy.  The  majority  of  the 
animals  slaughtered  are  females,  consequently  the 
stock  of  production  is  gradually  lessened.  Were 
a skilled  sealer  employed  for  the  proper  classi- 
fication of  the  animals  before  killing,  it  would 
do  away  to  some  extent  with  the  extermination 
of  seals  whose  skins  at  that  season  were  practically 
worthless. 

On  the  Paloma  Islands  very  few  seals  are  killed. 

The  seizure  of  the  Canadian  schooner  Agnes  G. 
Donohoe  in  the  year  1905  on  the  alleged  grounds 
of  sealing  in  jurisdictional  waters — that  is,  within  the 
three  miles  limit — caused  the  intervention  of  the 
British  Government.  The  master  and  men  were 
under  arrest  for  a period  of  ten  months,  but 
the  case,  diplomatically  handled  at  that  time  by 
her  Majesty’s  Representative,  Mr.  Walter  Baring 
(Minister),  and  Mr.  Robert  Peel  (Charge  d’ Affaires), 
was  finally  settled  with  satisfaction  to  both  Govern- 
ments by  the  tactful  procedure  of  his  Majesty’s 
present  Representative,  Mr.  Robert  J.  Kennedy, 
Minister  Plenipotentiary  and  Envoy  Extraordinary. 


CHAPTER  XXVI 


COMMUNICATION  AND  COMMERCE 

British  enterprise  in  South  America — The  various  industries  controlled — 
The  railways  of  the  Southern  continent — A remarkable  record — The 
opening  up  of  new  lands — Some  possibilities  of  the  future — Sound 
basis  on  which  the  extension  of  the  lines  is  founded — Products  and 
transport  facilities — Probable  influence  of  communications — Uru- 
guayan railways — A high  standard  of  enterprise — Comfortable 
travelling — Some  comparisons  between  Uruguay  and  Argentina  as 
railway  countries — Level  country  versus  hills — Stone  versus  alluvial 
soil — Questions  of  ballast — Importance  of  the  new  ramifications — 
Railway  construction  in  Uruguay — History  of  the  lines — Government 
obligations — Mileage  and  capital  of  the  companies — Interest  paid  on 
capital — Various  railway  systems— Areas  served — The  Central  Com- 
pany— Sketch  of  lines  and  extensions — Important  developments — The 
communication  with  Brazil — Financial  position  of  the  Company — 
Midland  Uruguay  Railway — Development  and  extension  of  the  line 
— Receipts  and  expenses — The  North  Western  of  Uruguay  and 
Uruguay  Northern  Railway — Montevidean  tramways — Local,  British, 
and  German  enterprise — Steamer  service  of  the  River  Plate — The 
Mihailovich  line — Ocean  passenger  traffic — Montevideo  the  sole  port 
of  call — The  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Company — The  Pacific  Line — 
The  Nelson  Line — Other  British  companies — Position  of  British 
exports — Sound  consular  advice. 


British  enterprise  throughout  South  America  is 
admittedly  remarkable.  If  one  except  the  retail  and 
local  trades  that  are  carried  on  by  the  native-born 
inhabitants  of  each  republic,  or  by  the  Spaniards, 
Basques,  Italians,  and  Turks,  each  of  which  have 
taken  some  particular  trade  under  their  own  pro- 
tection, there  is  probably  not  a single  branch  of 

2S6 


COMMUNICATION  AND  COMMERCE  297 


industry  in  which  the  British  are  not  interested  in 
a more  or  less  important  degree. 

From  mining  and  banking  to  farming  and  general 
commerce,  the  scope  is  sufficiently  broad.  In  no 
other  kind  of  enterprise,  however,  has  intelligence 
and  skill  been  so  freely  lavished  as  upon  that  of 
the  railways.  The  British  have  not  the  sole  monopoly 
of  these  great  undertakings,  it  is  true.  There  are 
the  local  Government  lines,  numerous  French  rail- 
ways, and  others  of  various  nationalities  that  are 
ably  served  and  administered.  Yet  almost  every  one 
of  the  most  important  lines  throughout  the  entire 
Southern  continent  owes  its  existence  to  British 
capital,  £nd  is  managed  by  British  officials.  The 
record  is  a remarkable  one,  and  the  full  tale  of 
its  magnitude  has  yet  to  be  written.  It  is  true  that 
in  many  branches  of  industry  the  ratio  of  British 
increase  has  not  been  in  proportion  with  that  of 
other  countries — a falling  off  that  may  be  inevitable, 
but  that  in  any  case  is  regrettable.  Fortunately, 
this  is  not  the  case  with  the  railways.  Indeed,  when 
the  progress  that  is  now  being  made  is  taken  into 
consideration,  it  becomes  evident  that  the  results  that 
must  ensue  within  the  space  of  a few  years  cannot 
well  fail  to  affect  the  entire  world. 

Of  the  feats  of  this  kind  that  are  at  the  present 
moment  being  achieved  some  of  the  most  important 
are  concerned  with  Bolivia,  Paraguay,  and  the  hinter- 
land of  Brazil.  The  opening  up  of  many  pf  the 
hitherto  inaccessible  regions  of  these  countries  means 
more  than  the  enclosing  within  the  fold  of  civilisa- 
tion vast  areas  of  rubber,  timber,  and  general  agri- 
culture. It  promises,  in  fact,  some  revelations  in 
the  way  of  minerals  and  mines  that,  although  the 
possibility  of  a disappointment  must  never  be  lost 
sight  of,  are  likely  enough  to  prove  of  an  astonishing 
nature. 


298 


URUGUAY 


The  tales  of  gold  in  the  untravelled  lands  where 
the  Indian  still  holds  sway  do  undoubtedly  not 
emanate  merely  from  the  imagination  of  the  few 
travellers  who  have  penetrated  within  certain  of  the 
districts.  The  reluctance  of  the  aboriginal  to  disclose 
the  spots  from  which  they  derive  the  precious  metal 
is  an  acknowledged  phase  of  his  character.  But  it 
is  not  solely  upon  the  unwilling  testimony  of  the 
Indians  that  such  hopes  are  based.  It  is  well  enough 
known  that  when  the  expulsion  of  the  Jesuits 
occurred,  and  when  many  of  the  remoter  districts 
in  which  they  had  established  precarious  missions 
returned  to  a state  of  savagery  and  seclusion,  numbers 
of  the  mines  that  were  even  then  known  were  aban- 
doned when  in  the  full  flush  of  their  yield — a yield 
that  the  primitive  native  implements  could  never 
make  complete. 

But  it  is  not  in  anticipation  of  such  developments 
as  these  That  the  railways  have  been  built.  The 
ordinary  products  of  the  countries  in  question  are 
more  than  sufficient  to  demand  their  existence.  The 
possibility  of  greater  mineral  fields  than  are  at 
present  suspected  is  merely  a side  issue  in  the 
general  scheme.  The  influence  of  steam  transport, 
however,  upon  many  of  the  silver -mines  cannot  fail 
to  be  marked,  since  the  utter  want  of  transport 
facilities  now  renders  imperative  an  astonishing 
number  of  mines  of  this  kind  the  productive  power 
of  which  is  very  great  indeed. 

The  Uruguayan  railways  form  no  exception  to  the 
prevailing  South  American  rule.  The  three  com- 
panies in  existence  in  that  Republic  are  all  British, 
and  the  standard  of  each  is  as  high  as  that  of  the 
others  in  the  remaining  republics.  Although  the 
enterprises  naturally  enjoy  lesser  advantages  in  the 
way  of  skilled  labour  and  technical  conveniences  than 
those  here  at  home,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the 


COMMUNICATION  AND  COMMERCE  299 


degree  of  comfort  enjoyed  by  the  traveller  on  a 
Uruguayan  line  compares  very  favourably  with  that 
experienced  on  an  average  British  railway.  The 
service  and  observation  of  punctuality  are  both  to 
be  commended,  while  the  dining  and  sleeping  cars 
are  not  only  admirable  of  their  type,  but  extremely 
well  adapted  to  the  needs  of  the  country. 

The  natural  facilities  that  the  Uruguayan  country 
offers  for  railways  differ  considerably  from  those  of 
the  Argentine.  In  the  central  provinces  of  the 
latter  many  hundreds  of  miles  may  be  travelled 
^without  any  gradient  whatever  becoming  apparent. 
The  absence  of  streams  here,  moreover,  obviates 
almost  entirely  the  necessity  for  bridge  building. 
It  has  already  been  explained  that  the  characteristics 
of  the  Uruguayan  Campo  are  entirely  different. 
Although  it  possesses  few  hills  of  any  really  im- 
posing height,  its  stretches  of  dead  level  ground  are 
equally  rare.  Thus,  although  the  gradients  may  be 
gentle  and  sufficiently  easy,  they  are  almost  con- 
tinuous. In  some  places,  moreover,  the  rise  and 
fall  of  the  line  is  necessarily  accentuated,  and  even 
abrupt — at  all  events,  compared  with  the  neighbouring 
areas. 

Although,  however,  Uruguay  may  not  be  quite  so 
favourably  situated  for  railway  purposes  as  regards 
its  levels,  it  possesses  one  very  important  advantage 
over  Argentina.  In  the  central  and  richest  provinces 
of  the  latter  one  of  the  most  serious  drawbacks  lies 
in  the  total  absence  of  any  local  material  with  which 
to  ballast  the  track.  For  hundreds  of  miles  on  all 
sides  no  stone — not  even  the  merest  pebble — is  to 
be  met  with,  since  the  land  consists  of  nothing  beyond 
the  rich,  alluvial  soil.  Thus,  if  stone  be  required 
for  the  perfection  of  the  tracks,  it  is  necessary  to 
import  it  from  afar,  and  the  haulage  of  the  material 
inevitably  forms  a weighty  item  in  the  cost  and 


300 


URUGUAY 


upkeep  of  the  line.  In  this  respect  Uruguay  is  far 
more  favourably  provided  for.  Stone  abounds,  not 
only  in  certain  districts  but  throughout  the  country 
— although,  of  course,  there  are  many  centres  where 
the  quality  of  the  material  is  far  superior  to  that 
of  others.  Thus  the  question  of  ballast  and  embank- 
ments is  solved  in  a very  simple  fashion  here,  and 
in  a land  of  numerous  rivers  and  streams  the 
construction  of  stone  bridges  is  made  possible. 

As  regards  the  present  position  of  Uruguayan  rail- 
ways, it  is  impossible  to  over-estimate  the  importance 
of  the  new  ramifications  that  are  now  spreading 
through  the  country.  Uruguay  contains  no 
mysterious  hinterland,  it  is  true.  But,  although 
every  corner  of  the  Republic  is  known,  the  resources 
of  many  of  its  regions  have  of  necessity  remained 
quite  untapped  for  want  of  the  railway  communica- 
tion that  was  essential  for  the  transport  of  the 
produce  in  whatever  shape  or  form  it  might  emerge 
from  the  soil. 

I am  indebted  to  Mr.  V.  Hinde,  the  secretary  of 
the  Midland  Uruguay  Railway,  for  the  following 
information  concerning  the  railways  of  the  country  : 

The  construction  of  railways  in  Uruguay  may  be 
said  to  have  commenced  in  the  year  1 866,  when 
a concession  was  granted  for  a line  from  the  capital 
(Montevideo)  to  Durazno,  a distance  of  130  miles. 
The  construction  of  this  line  was  followed  by  the 
building  of  a short  line  from  the  city  of  Salto  towards 
the  frontier  of  Brazil.  In  1877  an  English  com- 
pany, the  present  Central  Uruguay  Railway  Co., 
Ltd.,  was  formed  to  take  over  the  former  and 
complete  the  line  to  the  town  of  Rio  Negro,  which 
extension  was  finished  in  1886. 

In  the  meantime  the  Uruguayan  Government  had 
devoted  considerable  attention  to  the  question  of  rail- 


COMMUNICATION  AND  COMMERCE  301 


ways,  and  in  the  year  1884  a : law  was  passed  by 
the  Chambers  embodying  a definite  scheme  of  rail- 
way communication  with  various  parts  of  the  Republic, 
the  executive  being  authorised  to  contract  for  lines 
as  outlined,  and  to  guarantee  an  income  equal  to 
£560  per.  annum  per  mile  of  line  for  a period  of 
forty  years.  A result  of  this  enactment  was  the 
formation  of  several  companies  in  England,  and  rail- 
way construction  was  rapidly  proceeded  with.  By 
the  year  1891,  1,000  miles  of  line  were  opened  for 
traffic.  In  respect  of  which  some  670  miles  enjoyed 
the  Government  guarantee,  equal  to  7 per  cent,  on 
a capitalisation  of  £5,000  per  kilometre. 

At  this  point,  however,  further  development  re- 
ceived a check  by  the  Government  finding  it  necessary 
to  rearrange  its  obligations.;  This  rearrangement 
took  the  form  of  a reduction  of  the  interest  on  the 
External  Debt,  including  railway  guarantees,  from 
7 per  cent,  to  3^  per  cent.,  the  service  at  this  reduced 
figure  being  secured  on  45  per  cent,  of  the  Custom 
House  receipts  specially  hypothecated.  Punctual 
payment  of  guarantees  at  this  rate  has  always  been 
made. 

In  1889  the  Central  Uruguay  iWestern  Extension 
Railway  Company  was  formed  to  construct  a line 
from  San  Jose  to  the  towns  of  Mercedes,  Sauce, 
and  Colonia.  This  line  does  not  enjoy  a Govern- 
ment guarantee,  and  reverts  to  the  Government  in 
the  year  1962. 

The  railway  system  of  the  Republic  to-day  amounts 
to  some  1,432  miles  of  line  opened  for  traffic  and 
78  miles  in  course  of  construction. 


302 


URUGUAY 


The  following  shows  the  capital  of  the  respective 
companies  and  length  of  lines  : 


Mileage  Capital. 

Open.  £ 


Central  Uruguay  Railway,  includ- 
ing Western  Extension  and 
North  Eastern  of  Uruguay  Rail- 
way Co.,  Ltd 

Central  Uruguay  Eastern  Exten- 
sion Co.,  Ltd 

Central  Uruguay  Northern  Exten- 
sion Co.,  Ltd 

Midland  Uruguay  Railway  Co., 

Ltd 

North  Western  of  Uruguay  Rail- 
way Co.,  Ltd 

Uruguay  Northern  Railway  Co., 

Ltd 

Uruguay  East  Coast  Railway 


Total  ... 


482 

5,403,oi8' 

277 

2,033,400 

Worked  by 
- Central  Uruguay 

182 

1,627,150. 

Railway  Co. 

229 

2,379,462 

III 

1,435,517 

73 

855,562 

78 

309,980 

L432 

14,044,089 

The  amount  of  interest,  &c.,  paid  on  the  ^.bove 
capital  may  be  seen  in  the  table  on  the  following  page, 
■which  is  equal  to  rather  over  4J  per  cent,  on  the 
whole  capital  of  £13,444,089. 

The  railway  system  of  Uruguay  may  be  said  to 
be  represented  by  the  following  companies  : 

The  Central  Uruguay  Railway  and  its  allied  lines. 

The  Midland  Uruguay  System,  which  joins  that 
of  the  Central  and  forms  a means  of  communica- 
tion with  the  cities  of  Paysandu  and  Salto,  with  a 
branch  to  the  town  of  Fray  Bentos,  now  .almost 
completed. 

The  North  (Western  of  Uruguay,  continuing  the 
railway  from  Salto  to  the  frontier  of  Brazil  at 
Cuareim. 

In  addition  there  are  the  short  lines  in  the  nature 
of  branches — that  of  the  Northern  Uruguay  Rail- 


COMMUNICATION  AND  COMMERCE  303 


£ 

Interest  paid  on  Capital. 

Per  Cent. 

£ 

2,000,000 

Central  Uruguay  Ordinary  Stock 

5 

100,000 

400,000 

„ „ Preference  Shares  ... 

Si 

22,000 

953,018 

„ „ Debenture  Stock 

6 

57,i8i 

1,000,000 

„ „ Western  Railway  Ex- 
tension Debenture 

4 

40,000 

250,000 

Central  Uruguay  2nd  Debenture  Stock 

6 

15,000 

400,000 

North  Eastern  of  Uruguay  Preference 
Shares 

7 

28,000 

400,000 

North  Eastern  of  Uruguay  Ordinary 
Shares 

7 

28,000 

775,000 

Central  Uruguay  Railway  Eastern 
Extension  Ordinary  Shares 

3f 

29,062 

775,000 

Central  Uruguay  Railway  Eastern 
Extension  Preference  Shares 

5 

38,750 

483,400 

Central  Uruguay  Railway  Eastern 
Extension  Debenture  Stock 

5 

24,170 

1,000,000 

Central  Uruguay  Railway  Northern 
Extension  Ordinary  Shares 

3f 

37,5oo 

627,150 

Central  Uruguay  Railway  Northern 
Extension  Debenture  Stock 

5 

3L357 

600,000 

Midland  Uruguay  Railway  Ordinary 
Stock  

nil 

— 

600,000 

Midland  Uruguay  Railway  Prior  Lien 
Debenture  Stock  ...  

5 

30,000 

1,179,462 

Midland  Uruguay  Railway  Debenture 
Stock 

5 

58,973 

120,120 

North  Western  of  Uruguay  Ordinary 
Stock  

nil 

— 

293,172 

North  Western  of  Uruguay  2nd  Pref- 
erence Stock  

nil 

— 

583,850 

North  Western  of  Uruguay  ist  Pref- 
erence Stock  

2 

11,677 

400,000 

North  Western  of  Uruguay  ist 
Debenture  Stock  

6 

24,000 

38,375 

North  Western  of  Uruguay  2nd 
Debenture  Stock  

6 

2,302 

100,000 

Uruguay  Northern  Railway  Ordinary 
Shares 

nil 

— 

250,000 

Uruguay  Northern  Railway  Prefer- 
ence Stock  

1 

2,500 

449,400 

Uruguay  Northern  Railway  Debenture 
Stock  

Si 

r* 

15,729 

56,162 

Uruguay  Northern  Railway  Prior  Lien 
Debenture  Stock  

2,808 

125,000 

Uruguay  East  Coast  Railway  Ordinary 
Shares 

D 

nil 

— 

184,980 

Uruguay  East  Coast  Railway  Debenture 
Stock  

nil 

£14,044,089 

£599,009 

304 


URUGUAY 


way  Company,  branching  from  the  North-Western 
system  at  Isla  de  Cabellos  connecting  with  the 
frontier  of  Brazil  at  San  Eugenio  ; and  the  Uruguay 
East  Coast  Railway  from  a junction  with  the  North- 
Eastern  Uruguay  system  at  Olmos  to  Maldonado,  a 
distance  of  seventy-eight  miles. 

Central  Company. — By  far  the  most  important 
system  is  that  of  the  Central  Company,  including 
leased  and  worked  lines.  The  lines  of  this  system 
extend  from  the  capital  to  the  frontier  of  Brazil 
at  Rivera,  with'  branches  to  the  city  of  Mercedes  in 
the  west,  and  the  towns  of  Melo,  Treinta  y Trek, 
and  Minas  on  the  Eastern  and  North-Eastern  Exten- 
sion. The  railway  from  the  capital  passes  through 
a well -populated  agricultural  district  for  a'  radius 
of  about  thirty  miles  ; this  radius  is  gradually 
extending,  stimulated  by  the  increasing  importance 
of  Montevideo  and  the  gradual  breaking  up  of  lands 
in  the  fertile  regions  of  the  western  and  eastern 
extensions. 

The  extension  now  finished  to  Melo  opens  up 
another  district  suitable  to  the  cultivation  of  cereals, 
from  which  considerable  traffic  is  being  derived. 

An  extremely  important  matter  in  connection  with 
the  future  development  of  these  lines,  and,  in  fact, 
all  the  railway  interests  of  the  Republic,  is  to  be 
found  in  the  completion  of  the  port  works  at  Mon- 
tevideo. Until  the  port  works  were  taken  in  hand 
the  embarkation  of  cargo  at  this  principal  outlet 
of  the  Republic  had  been  greatly  hampered  by  natural 
difficulties,  and  consequently  heavy  charges  in  con- 
nection with  the  lighterage  from  the  railway  wharf 
to  the  ocean  steamers.  The  deepening  of  the  inner 
port  and  the  construction  of  extensive  wharfs  and 
piers  at  which  ocean  steamers  can  berth  will  doubtless 
lead  to  an  increase  in  traffic,  not  only  from  Uruguay 
but  the  neighbouring  State  of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul. 


COMMUNICATION  AND  COMMERCE  305 


An  important  connection  with  the  railway  system 
of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul  is  made  at  the  terminus  of 
the  Central  Uruguay  Northern  Extension  Railway 
at  Rivera,  and  by  the  completion  of  a connecting 
link  between  the  Sao  Paulo  Rio  Grande  Railway 
System  and  the  lines  of  the  Cie  Auxiliare  de  Chemins 
de  Fer  au  Bresil,  a Company  which  controls  prac- 
tically the  whole  railway  system  of  the  State  of 
Rio  Grande  do  Sul  (now  almost  completed),  direct 
railway  communication  will  be  established  between 
Montevideo  and  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

The  following  table  shows  the  result  of  working 
of  the  Central  Uruguay  Main  Line,  exclusive  of 
extensions,  which,  as  far  as  expansion  in  receipts 
is  concerned,  may  be  regarded  as  indicative  of  those 
lines  : 


Year. 

Receipts. 

j Expenses. 

Profit. 

Dividend. 

1904-5 

414,228 

190,165 

223,572 

Per  Cent. 

4i 

I905-6 

442,083 

212,465 

229,618 

5 

1906-7 

493,682 

244,922 

248,760 

5 

I907-8 

508,044 

272,104 

235,940 

4^ 

1908-9 

557,122 

287,505 

269,617 

4£ 

1909-IO 

577,489 

287,959 

289,530 

5 

The  increase  in  gross  receipts  is  perhaps  not  quite 
so  marked  as  in  the  case  of  neighbouring  lines  in 
the  Argentine  Republic,  and  a reason  for  this  is 
to  be  found  in  the  fact  that,  favoured  by  magnificent 
grazing  camps,  cattle  raising  is  still  the  principal 
industry  of  Uruguay.  Agricultural  development, 
although  more  marked  of  recent  years,  has  been 
slow,  but  an  increase  in  this  is  probably  due  to 

20 


306 


URUGUAY 


efforts  which  are  being  made  by  the  Government 
to  promote  colonisation  and  the  extension  of  lines 
in  the  Eastern  provinces. 

Midland  Uruguay  Railway. — This  Company’s  line 
passes  through  an  entirely  pastoral  district,  and  its 
traffic  is  principally  derived  from  the  carriage  of 
cattle,  wool,  and  general  merchandise.  An  important 
extension  is  now  practically  completed  to  Fray 
Bentos,  the  headquarters  of  Liebig’s  Extract  of  Meat 
Company.  The  River  Uruguay  at  this  point  is 
navigable  for  large  ocean  steamers,  and  a pier  has 
been  erected  to  accommodate  these,  which  will  put 
the  railway  system  of  the  north  of  the  Republic  in 
a more  favourable  position  to  handle  the  various 
products  of  cattle-killing  establishments,  both  in 
Uruguay  and  on  the  Brazilian  side  of  the  frontier 
of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul,  an  industry  of  increasing 
importance. 


Year. 

Gross  Receipts. 

Expenses. 

Profit. 

Dividend. 

1905-6 

6o,533 

50,304 

10,229 

1906-7 

75,887 

60,833 

15,054 

1907-8 

72,172 

67,153 

5,019 

1908-9 

81,503 

71,114 

10,389 

1909-IO 

88,165 

67,479 

20,686 

At  the  present  time  a considerable  tonnage  is 
transported  by  river  from  Salto  for  shipment  from 
Buenos  Aires.  It  is  possible,  therefore,  that  the 
extension  of  the  Midland  Company  to  Fray  Bentos 
will  play  an  important  part  in  the  development  of 
its  line  and  those  of  the  companies  north  of  Salto, 
and  Fray  Bentos  should  very  shortly  become  the 
second  port  of  the  Republic. 


COMMUNICATION  AND  COMMERCE  307 


The  receipts  in  Uruguay  of  the  Midland  Company 
have  shown  some  expansion  of  late  years,  having 
increased  from  £55,000  in  the  year  ending  June  30, 
1904,  to  £88,165  in  1909-10  (see  opposite  page). 

The  North-Western  of  Uruguay  Railway  and 
Uruguay  Northern  Railway. — The  remarks  with 
regard  to  the  nature  of  the  country  and  the  traffic 
of  the  Midland  apply  also  to  these  lines.  At  the 
terminus  of  the  North-Western  Line  at  the  River 
Cuareim  arrangements  exist  for  the  interchange  of 
traffic  with  the  Brazil  Great  Southern  Railway,  and 
the  respective  Governments  have  sanctioned  a project 
for  the  construction  of  an  international  bridge  to 
connect  the  lines  at  this  point.  It  is  probable  that 
this  bridge  will  be  constructed  within  the  next  few 
years,  as  the  interchange  of  traffic  due  to  the  ex- 
tension of  the  Brazil  Great  Southern  Railway  to  San 
Borju  is  likely  to  be  considerably  enhanced. 

The  excellent  tramways  with  which  Montevideo 
is  served  are  administered  by  three  companies,  local, 
British,  and  German.  The  local  enterprise  is  con- 
siderably the  smallest  of  the  three,  the  extent  of 
its  lines  not  exceeding  twelve  miles.  The  concern, 
moreover,  is  dependent  solely  upon  horse  traction, 
with  its  attendant  disadvantages. 

The  British  enterprise,  the  United  Electric  Tram- 
way Company,  is  the  most  important  in  the  capital. 
It  possesses  eighty-two  miles  of  line,  195  passenger- 
cars,  and  sixty-eight  trailers.  By  the  terms  of  the 
concession  at  least  two-thirds  of  the  employees  must 
be  citizens  of  the  country.  The  Compania  Alemania 
Transatlantia  is  a German  Company,  with  a length 
of  seventy-five  miles  of  electric  tramlines. 

The  steamer  service  of  the  River  Plate  and 
Uruguay  is  almost  entirely  in  the  hands  of  the 
Mihanovich  Company,  as,  indeed,  is  that  of  the  entire 
system  of  these  great  rivers.  The  Company  is  an 


308 


URUGUAY 


extremely  powerful  one,  possessing  a very  large  fleet 
that  comprises  all  classes  of  steam  vessels  from  the 
small,  puffing  tug  to  the  largest  and  most  modern 
liner  of  the  fresh  waters.  Many  of  these  latter  are 
peculiarly  fine  specimens  of  their  type,  graceful  in 
build,  powerfully  equipped,  and  provided  with  broad 
and  roomy  decks.  Although  the  larger  of  these 
craft  will  carry  between  two  and  three  hundred 
passengers,  the  cabin  and  saloon  accommodation 
is  contrived  on  a most  liberal  and  imposing  scale. 
Indeed,  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  Mihanovich 
boats  are  a credit  to  the  broad  rivers  on  which 
they  float. 

So  far  as  the  ocean  passenger  traffic  is  concerned, 
Montevideo  is  the  sole  Uruguayan  port  at  which  the 
liners  call.  The  capital  affords  a port  of  call  for 
the  magnificent  vessels  of  the  Royal  Mail  Steam 
Packet  Company  that,  notwithstanding  their  size,  are 
now  enabled  by  means  of  the  recent  harbour  im- 
provements to  enter  the  inner  waters  of  the  port. 
Of  the  other  British  lines  concerned,  the  most 
important  are  the  Pacific  (that  is  now  incorporated 
with  the  R.M.S.P.)  and  the  Nelson  Line,  that 
possesses  a fine  new  fleet  of  ten-thousand-ton  boats. 
The  other  great  British  shipping  companies  whose 
vessels  call  at  Montevideo  are  the  Lamport  and  Holt, 
Houlder,  Prince,  Houston,  the  New  Zealand  Shipping 
Company,  and  the  Shaw,  Savill. 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  in  all  monumental  under- 
takings of  the  kind  the  British  are  holding  their 
own  in  a satisfactory  fashion.  As  regards  ordinary 
commerce  and  the  exports  of  manufactured  goods, 
the  progress,  unfortunately,  is  by  no  means  so 
evident.  I have  so  frequently  laid  stress  upon  the 
narrowness  of  the  home  commercial  idea,s  in  this 
respect  that  still  obtains  in  so  many  quarters  that 
I am  glad  to  be  able  to  quote  the  words  of  another 


COMMUNICATION  AND  COMMERCE  309 


that  admirably  fit  the  case.  The  following  is  from 
the  Consular  Report  on  Uruguay  issued  in  1910, 
and  the  sentences  undoubtedly  sum  up  the  situation 
with  a commendable  accuracy  : “It  has  been  pointed 
out  to  me  that  careful  investigation  into  the  com- 
mercial methods  of  our  competitors  reveals  several 
reasons  why  British  trade  has  failed  to  retain  the 
proportion  of  the  imports  it  held  a few  years  ago. 
For  instance,  greater  attention  to  detail  is  paid  by 
the  foreign  merchant  than  by  his  British  rival,  who, 
as  a Irule,  adheres  in  catalogues  and  invoices  to  British 
standard  weights  and  measures  and  prices,  without 
giving  their  equivalent  in  terms  of  the  country.  In 
tenders  for  public  works  German  firms  study  the 
specifications  with  minute  care,  and  tender  for  every 
item,  leaving  nothing  in  doubt,  besides  drawing  up 
their  applications  in  so  clear  and  simple  a manner 
as  to  give  the  minimum  labour  in  examination,  and 
the  maximum  of  facility  in  comparison  to  the  authori- 
ties who  deal  with  them  ; whereas  British  tenderers 
sometimes  merely  quote  a lump  sum,  ignoring  all 
details,  and  often,  when  details  are  given,  the  price 
of  many  items  is  left  vague,  ‘ As  may  be  agreed 
upon.’  When  goods  are  imported  into  the  country 
from  Germany,  France,  the  United  States  of  America, 
&c.,  a detailed  statement  in  Spanish  of  the  contents 
of  each  package  is  generally  furnished,  with  metric 
weights  and  measures,  which  facilitates  their  rapid 
examination  and  dispatch,  whereas  British  firms  as 
a rule  content  themselves  with  the  brief  statement, 

‘ Case  containing  machinery  ’ or  ‘ hardware,’  &c., 
leaving  to  the  Custom  House  official  the  task  of 
working  out  details  and  calculations. 

“ Then,  again,  as  regards  languages,  the  British 
commercial  traveller,  armed  with  British  catalogues 
and  price  lists  [although  I note  with  pleasure  that 
some  are  now  printed  in  Spanish],  knows  no  language 


310 


URUGUAY 


but  his  own,  but  the  German  invariably  speaks 
Spanish  and  English,  and  he  has  carefully  studied 
beforehand  the  needs  of  the  market  which  he  is 
visiting  and  the  financial  position  of  merchants.  This 
gives  him  a great  advantage  over  his  British  rival, 
who  rarely  has  previous  knowledge  of  his  would-be 
customers,  and  is  dependent  on  such  chance  informa- 
tion as  he  may  pick  up  to  be  subsequently  confirmed 
by  inquiries  at  the  banks.  Time  is  thus  lost,  and 
irritation  is  caused  to  respectable  buyers,  who  resent 
what  appears  to  them  impertinent  suspicion. ” 


CHAPTER  XXVII 


POLITICS  AND  REVOLUTIONS 

The  Constitution  of  Uruguay — Government  of  the  Republic — Deputies  and 
senators — Their  duties — The  Civil  Code — Marriage — Rights  of 
foreigners — Law — The  Commission  of  Charity  and  Public  Welfare — 
Hospitals — Orphan  asylums — Infirmaries — The  charity  hospital  lottery 
— The  distribution  of  political  parties — The  Colorados  and  the  Blancos 
— Policy  of  both — Feud  between  the  parties — Old-standing  strife — 
Explanation  of  the  nomenclature — Origin  of  the  feud — Rivera  and 
Oribe — Inherited  views — Attitude  of  the  foreigners — Revolutions — 
Manner  of  their  outbreak — Government  precautions — The  need  of 
finance  and  arms — Some  rebellious  devices — Rifles  as  Manchester 
goods — The  importance  of  horses — Difficulties  that  attend  a revolution- 
ary movement — The  sweeping  up  of  horses — Equine  concentration 
camps— A powerful  weapon  in  the  hands  of  the  authorities — First 
signs  of  an  outbreak — Sylvan  rendezvous — The  question  of  reinforce- 
ments— Some  desperate  ventures — Their  accustomed  end — Chieftains 
of  the  north — Effect  of  a revolution  upon  local  industries — Needs  of 
the  army — Estancia  hands  as  troopers — Hasty  equipment — Manner  in 
which  actual  hostilities  are  conducted — “ The  Purple  Land  that 
England  lost  ” — The  spirit  of  modernism  and  the  internal  struggle — 
Tendency  to  localise  the  fields  of  strife — Power  of  the  Colorado  party — 
Whence  the  respective  partisans  are  drawn — Distinguishing  insignia 
— Some  necessary  precautions  on  the  part  of  the  foreigner — Adventures 
derived  from  colour  in  clothes — Some  ludicrous  episodes — The  expense 
of  revolution. 


The  Constitution  of  Uruguay  has  now  stood  the  test 
of  eighty  years,  and  thus  claims  to  be  the  oldest  in 
South  America,  or,  at  all  events,  the  one  that  has 
suffered  no  modification  for  the  longest  period  of 
time.  The  basis  on  which  this  is  composed  is  liberal 
in  the  extreme,  and  the  laws  undoubtedly  concede  to 

311 


312 


URUGUAY 


Oriental  subjects  an  amount  of  freedom  that  can  be 
surpassed  in  few  other  countries. 

The  Republic  possesses  two  chambers,  one  of 
deputies  elected  by  the  direct  vote  of  the  people,  the 
other  of  senators.  In  addition  to  their  legislative 
functions  it  is  the  duty  of  these  chambers  to  elect 
the  President  of  the  nation,  whose  term  of  office  lasts 
for  four  years.  The  chambers  also  nominate  the 
judges  of  the  High  Court,  who,  in  turn,  select  the 
magistrates  of  the  lower  courts. 

The  civil  code  is  largely  based  upon  the  Napoleonic 
model.  It  may  be  as  well  to  note  rapidly  a few  of  its 
more  salient  features.  From  the  point  of  view  of  the 
resident  foreigner  it  is  admirable  in  at  least  one 
respect,  since  it  makes  no  distinction  between  the 
civil  rights  accorded  to  Uruguayans  and  those  to 
foreigners.  Civil  marriage  is  obligatory,  the  off- 
spring of  a union  contracted  solely  by  the  Church 
being  considered  illegitimate.  In  commerce  the 
system  of  arrest  for  debt  is  not  admitted,  the  only 
cases  of  the  kind  in  which  imprisonment  is  imposed 
being  those  in  which  an  element  of  fraud  has 
entered.  In  criminal  law  the  death  penalty  has  been 
abolished,  and  the  various  modes  of  punishment 
consist  of  solitary  imprisonment,  exile,  deprivations, 
suspension  from  public  employment,  ordinary  im- 
prisonment, and  fines. 

On  the  whole,  there  is  a satisfactory  absence  of 
red-tape  in  Uruguayan  administrative  and  municipal 
affairs.  It  is  true  that  in  litigation  the  delays  are 
occasionally  lengthy  ; but  the  popular  idea  on  this 
point  has  been  much  exaggerated,  and  the  dispatch 
of  legal  business  is  far  more  satisfactory  than  is 
generally  supposed.  The  great  majority  of  officials, 
moreover,  discharge  their  duties  in  a reasonable  and 
fair-minded  fashion  that  has  been  heartily  acknow- 
ledged by  many  a resident  foreigner. 


POLITICS  AND  REVOLUTIONS  313 


Uruguay  possesses  comparatively  few  paupers. 
Indeed,  it  would  be  strange  were  this  otherwise  in  a 
land  the  resources  of  which  are  in  excess  of  the 
population.  Nevertheless  a certain  proportion  of 
the  lame,  blind,  halt,  and  indigent  is  inevitable, 
and  these  unfortunate  human  elements  are  well  cared 
for.  Public  assistance  towards  this  end  is  chiefly 
in  the  hands  of  a Commission  of  Charity  and  Public 
Welfare,  formed  of  twenty-one  members,  two -thirds 
of  whom  must  be  citizens  of  the  Republic. 

The  powers  of  this  Commission  are  considerable, 
and  they  control  a number  of  important  institutions, 
such  as  hospitals,  orphan  asylums,  and  establishments 
of  refuge  for  the  infirm,  indigent,  and  insane.  These 
are,  almost  without  exception,  exceedingly  well- 
organised,  and  conducted  on  the  most  modern 
humanitarian  lines.  The  financial  support  necessary 
for  the  upkeep  of  these  charities  is  derived  to  a 
large  extent  from  rates  and  taxes.  In  addition  to  this 
a special  lottery  has  been  instituted  that  is  known 
as  the  " Charity  Hospital  Lottery.”  Twenty-five  per 
cent,  of  its  proceeds  are  devoted  to  the  institution  in 
question.  The  support  at  present  derived  from  this 
source  is  not  inconsiderable,  as  will  be  evident  when 
it  is  explained  that  the  amount  it  rendered  in  1809 
exceeded  eight  hundred  thousand  dollars. 

We  now  arrive  at  the  political  affairs  of  Uruguay— 
a subject  that  calls  for  explanation  at  some  length. 
So  far  as  the  distribution  of  parties  is  concerned, 
the  matter  is  simple  enough.  Shifting  parties,  fusions 
and  splits  between  contending  sections,  and  the 
general  complications  that  attend  changing  political 
programmes  are  to  all  intents  and  purposes  absent 
here.  The  rival  parties  of  Uruguay  are  the  Colorados 
(reds)  and  the  Blancos  (whites).  The  policy  of 
both  is  equally  well-defined,  and,  indeed,  is  amazingly 
simple.  It  is  to  govern  1 The  national  programme 


314 


URUGUAY 


would  almost  certainly  remain  exactly  the  same 
whichever  were  in  power.  Thus  the  aim  of  the  party 
that  is  “ out  ” is  to  obtain  power  in  the  first  place, 
and  to  declare  their  policy  of  government  after- 
wards . 

The  feud  between  the  parties  is  one  of  old- 
standing.  It  commenced  with  the  final  wars  of  libera- 
tion, became  strongly  marked  with  the  establish- 
ment of  the  Republic  over  eighty  years  ago,  and  has 
continued  without  intermission  from  that  day  to  this. 
The  origin  of  the  party  terms  dates  from  the  war 
of  liberation.  General  Oribe  was  the  founder  of  the 
Blanco  party  and  General  Rivera  that  of  the 
Colorado.  The  former  was  wont  to  ride  a white 
horse,  the  latter  a bay,  and  the  distinguishing  colours 
of  the  lance  pennons  of  their  followers  were  respec- 
tively white  and  red. 

It  is  a little  curious  to  consider  that  the  present- 
day  party  strife  in  Uruguay  is  the  direct  legacy 
of  the  disputes  between  these  two  generals  that  broke 
out  in  the  first  instance  ere  the  Banda  Oriental  had 
even  been  proclaimed  a nation  ! In  1830  Rivera 
was  elected  first  Constitutional  President  of  the 
Republic  ; he  was  succeeded  on  March  1,  1835,  by 
his  rival,  Manuel  Oribe,  and  in  1838  there  broke 
out  what  is  known  as  the  Grande  Guerra , which 
lasted,  with  varying  results,  until  1852.  In  1853  a 
triumvirate  was  formed,  consisting  of  Rivera, 
Lavalleja,  and  Flores,  and  in  the  following  year  the 
last  named,  on  the  death  of  his  two  colleagues,  was 
elected  Constitutional  President.  Since  that  time 
there  have  been  no  less  than  twenty-three  presidents, 
constitutional  and  provisional,  of  whom  only  two, 
Perreira  and  Berro,  from  1856  to  1864,  have  been 
Blancos.  In  that  year  the  Colorado  party  got  into 
office,  and  have  maintained  themselves,  in  spite  of 
the  forcible  efforts  of  the  Blancos  to  expel  them. 


POLITICS  AND  REVOLUTIONS  315 


It  will  be  seen  that  no  political  principle  divides 
the  two  parties  ; men  are  simply  Blanco  or  Colorado 
because  their  fathers  and  grandfathers  were  so  before 
them,  but  they  cling  to  their  respective  parties  with 
a strange  courage  and  high  sense  of  honour.  In  the 
case  of  foreign  immigrants  whose  sons,  born  in  the 
country,  become  Oriental  subjects,  but  who  have 
no  Blanco  or  Colorado  traditions  to  inherit,  what 
happens  is  this  : the  youths  go  to  school,  form 

boyish  friendships,  and  by  pure  accident  become 
ardent  supporters  of  one  or  other  of  the  two  parties. 
Two  brothers  may  thus  chance  to  become  bitter 
political  opponents,  and  when  a revolution  breaks 
out  they  are  to  be  found  fighting  on  opposite  sides. 
The  situation  may  savour  a little  of  the  Gilbertian, 
but  it  is  sufficiently  serious  for  the  families  involved. 
It  must  be  admitted  that  many  revolutions  in  Uruguay 
are  curious  affairs.  To  one  not  in  close  touch  with 
the  national  movements  an  outbreak  of  the  kind  may 
appear  to  burst  forth  spontaneously,  whereas  it  has 
probably  been  anticipated  by  the  Government  as  well 
as  by  the  revolutionaries  for  months  beforehand.  In 
these  days  even  the  most  casual  insurrection  is  not  to 
be  effected  without  a certain  amount  of  forethought. 
First  of  all  financial  sinews  are  indispensable,  and, 
these  once  obtained,  it  follows  that  a supply  of  arms 
is  equally  essential. 

The  introduction  of  these  is  the  most  difficult  feat 
of  all  to  accomplish,  since  the  Government  adopts 
methods  of  precaution,  and  keeps  a sharp  look-out  for 
any  possible  importations  of  the  kind.  Thus  as  a rule 
the  weapons  are  either  smuggled  across  the  Brazilian 
frontier  or  over  some  of  the  more  lonely  stretches 
of  the  River  Uruguay.  Occasionally  a device  is  tried 
similar  to  that  which  met  with  success  in  the 
Transvaal  Colony  previous  to  the  South  African  War. 
When  I was  in  Uruguay  at  the  end  of  1910  many 


316 


URUGUAY 


indications  were  at  hand  that  went  to  prove  the 
imminence  of  a revolution,  and  the  authorities,  not 
only  in  Uruguay  but  in  the  neighbouring  countries, 
were  on  the  alert  for  any  development  that  might 
arise.  At  this  period  a large  number  of  innocent- 
looking packing-cases,  purporting  to  contain  Man- 
chester goods,  were  in  transit  through  Argentina 
destined  for  one  of  the  northern  Oriental  ports  on 
the  Uruguay  River.  Through  some  cause  or  other 
the  cases  came  under  suspicion,  and  they  were  opened 
ere  they  had  crossed  the  Argentine  frontier.  In 
place  of  the  Manchester  goods  reposed  thousands  of 
grim  Mauser  rifles  and  millions  of  cartridges  ! The 
discovery  of  these  weapons  must  have  dealt  a bitter 
blow  to  the  insurrectionist  cause  ; nevertheless,  as 
anticipated,  the  revolution  broke  out  a few  weeks 
later. 

I have  said  that  both  weapons  and  cash  are 
essential  for  the  purpose  of  a revolution — which  is 
obvious  enough  in  almost  every  country  as  well  as 
in  Uruguay.  But  there  is  a third  requisite  that  is 
quite  as  indispensable  as  either  of  the  former.  The 
Uruguayan  is  a born  cavalryman,  and  a horse  is 
necessary  to  him,  not  only  for  the  partaking  in  the 
actions  but  for  the  covering  of  the  lengthy  distances 
that  have  to  be  traversed.  A score  of  leagues  and 
more  frequently  lie  between  a man  and  his  appointed 
rendezvous.  A pedestrian  in  the  midst  of  the  hills 
and  valleys  would  be  a lost  and  negligible  unit. 

It  might  be  imagined  that  the  matter  was  simple 
enough,  and  that  all  a revolutionist  had  to  do  when 
the  time  for  the  outbreak  arrived  was  to  mount  his 
horse,  and  to  ride  away  over  the  hills  to  join  his 
fellows.  In  actual  fact  a rising  is  not  to  be  started 
in  this  fashion.  It  is  inevitable  in  the  first  place 
that  numerous  preparations  must  occur  ere  the  time 
for  active  operations  has  ripened,  and  it  is  equally 


OX  WAGON  ON  THE  CAMPO. 


CROSS  COUNTRY  TRAVELLING. 


To  face  p.  316. 


t 


POLITICS  AND  REVOLUTIONS  317 


inevitable  that  an  organisation  of  the  kind,  with 
whatever  attempt  at  secrecy  it  may  be  conducted, 
cannot  proceed  without  becoming  known  to  the 
Government. 

The  eve  of  an  outbreak  is,  in  consequence,  marked 
by  tremendous  vigilance  on  the  part  of  the  authorities. 
Troopers  and  police  are  dispatched  to  strategic 
positions  throughout  the  country,  and  then  for  a while 
the  nation  waits  in  anxious  expectation  while  the 
tension  increases.  With  the  first  hint  of  the  actual 
banding  together  of  the  revolutionary  companies  the 
authorities  strike  a blow — not  at  the  men  themselves, 
but  at  their  means  of  transport.  The  troopers  and 
police  ride  hastily  in  all  directions,  and  scour  the 
countryside  in  search  of  every  horse  that  is  available. 
When  the  districts  have  been  swept  quite  clear  of 
their  equine  population  the  horses  are  driven  together 
to  the  various  headquarters,  where  they  remain, 
strongly  guarded. 

This  very  practical  measure  naturally  provides  the 
authorities  with  a power  with  which  it  is  difficult  for 
the  revolutionists  to  cope.  It  is  distinctly  fatal  to 
a premature  or  to  a belated  move  on  their  part,  and 
even  should  they  chance  to  strike  upon  the  most 
favourable  moment,  the  horse-gathering  policy  mili- 
tates strongly  against  any  likelihood  of  eventual 
success.  Should  the  malcontents  determine  to  pro- 
ceed with  the  affair  in  the  face  of  this  discouragement, 
they,  of  course,  follow  the  lead  of  the  Government, 
and  endeavour  to  annex  all  the  mounts  that  the 
authorities  have  been  unable  to  carry  off  in  time. 

So  far  as  the  militant  programme  of  the  revolu- 
tionists is  concerned,  the  first  sign  of  an  outbreak 
is  invariably  the  riding  away  of  a number  of  men 
from  townships  and  estancias  to  the  woods  in 
the  remoter  and  more  lonely  districts.  These 
sylvan  rendezvous  are,,  of  course,  known  to  the  party 


318 


URUGUAY 


in  general  beforehand,  and  here  the  leaders  of  the 
movement  lie  hidden  in  order  to  await  the  advent 
of  reinforcements.  The  first  move  is  simple  enough  ; 
but  it  is  the  arrival  of  the  necessary  reinforcements 
that  is  frequently  frustrated  by  the  precautionary 
measures  of  the  Government. 

Should  the  matter  appear  quite  hopeless,  it  is 
even  then  possible  for  the  insurrectionists  to  disperse 
and  to  return  to  their  homes  ere  the  shedding  of 
blood  has  occurred.  The  Uruguayan,  however,  is  not 
noted  without  reason  for  his  spirit  of  reckless  daring. 
It  frequently  happens  that  a ; forlorn  band,  once 
gathered,  will  refuse  to  disperse,  and  then  the  result 
of  the  campaign  is  usually  short  and  sharp.  In  the 
ordinary  course  of  events  the  adventurers  will  lie 
hidden  until  a sufficient  force  has  come  in,  one  by 
one,  or  in  parties  of  three  and  four.  Then  they 
will  ride  out  and  commence  active  operations, 
of  which  the  end  in  these  days  is  invariably  the 
defeat  of  the  party. 

Many  of  the  attributes  of  these  revolutions  are 
not  a little  quaint  and  picturesque — reminiscent,  in 
fact,  of  the  times  when  personality  counted  more 
and  system  less.  In  the  remote  country  districts, 
more  especially  in  those  of  the  north,  are  many 
prominent  men  who  occupy  more  or  less  the  position 
of  chieftains,  or  that  of  the  old  Caudillos  who  have 
left  so  great  a mark  on  Uruguayan  history.  Each  of 
these  is  a power  in  himself,  according  to  the  extent 
of  his  following  ; for  each  can  count  upon  his  own 
particular  body  of  armed  men  just  as  surely  as  could 
the  feudal  knights  upon  their  mediaeval  retainers. 
These  personalities  are  naturally  marked,  and  their 
movements  are  closely  watched  in  a period  of  unrest. 

A Uruguayan  revolution,  even  when  in  full  blast, 
has  this  to  be  said  in  its  favour,  that  it  does  not 
in  the  least  interfere  with  the  liberty  or  with  the 


POLITICS  AND  REVOLUTIONS  319 


movements  of  a resident  foreigner.  If  he  be  an 
estanciero,  however,  and  should  the  tide  of  campaign 
flow  into  his  district,  it  is  likely  enough  that  it  will 
affect  him  materially  in  much  the  same  fashion  that 
a strike  influences  the  fortunes  of  dwellers  in 
industrial  districts.  It  is  obvious  enough  that  when 
the  Government  is  in  need  of  recruits  the  claims 
of  neither  the  pastures  nor  the  shearing-shed  can 
rival  those  of  the  cause.  Unfortunately  for  the 
estanciero,  there  is  almost  certainly  not  a man  in  his 
employ  who  is  not  admirably  adapted  for  a trooper, 
and  none  are  more  alive  to  this  fact  than  the  Govern- 
ment recruiting-officers.  Thus,  when  the  official  party 
arrives  its  members  will  be  polite  but  firm,  and  a 
short  while  afterwards  the  station  hands  will  be 
bearing  rifles  instead  of  lassos,  and  a capataz  or  two 
— the  foremen  on  the  estate — will  find  their  heads 
raised  a little  higher  in  the  air  beneath  the  support 
of  a military  title,  although  it  is  possible  that  this 
may  be  effected  a little  at  the  expense  of  their  pockets, 
since  the  pay  is  not  in  proportion  to  the  temporary 
rank. 

In  the  circumstances  of  haste  that  obtain  at  such 
moments  it  may  be  imagined  that,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  Government  regular  forces,  the  equipment 
on  both  sides  knows  little  of  the  accepted  insignia 
of  military  pomp.  Indeed,  a rifle  and  a badge  in  the 
majority  of  cases  alone  distinguish  the  militant  from 
the  ordinary  civilian.  But  at  such  periods  it  must 
be  admitted  that,  putting  aside  the  foreigners,  very 
few  ordinary  civilians  are  left  in  the  disturbed  areas, 
since,  when  the  tide  of  warfare  rolls  his  way,  it  is 
practically  impossible  for  an  Oriental  to  remain 
neutral.  Even  were  he  so  inclined,  it  is  doubtful 
whether  he  would  be  given  the  opportunity. 

In  order  to  obtain  an  insight  into  the  manner  in 
which  the  actual  hostilities  are  conducted  no  better 


320 


URUGUAY 


means  could  be  adopted  than  the  perusal  of  a novel, 
“ The  Purple  Land  that  England  Lost,”  from  the 
pen  of  a great  authority  on  the  River  Plate,  Mr. 
W.  H.  Hudson.  It  is  true  that  the  descriptions  deal 
with  a period  when  the  present  prosperity  of  the 
Banda  Oriental  had  not  yet  come  into  existence  ; but 
the  vivid  local  colouring  must  hold  good  for  all  the 
contemporary  softening  of  the  national  methods. 

The  spirit  of  modernism  that  is  now  evident  in 
Uruguay  has  entered  to  a certain  extent  into  the 
waging  of  these  internal  struggles  that  themselves  by 
rights  should  belong  to  the  past.  The  Oriental  is 
perfectly  willing  to  acknowledge  that  the  dispute 
concerns  himself  alone,  and  the  tendency  to  localise 
the  fields  of  strife  and  to  respect  private  property 
is  becoming  more  and  more  marked.  A certain 
amount  of  inevitable  damage,  however,  ensues.  In 
districts  where  fuel  is  scarce  fence-posts  and  even 
railway-sleepers  are  apt  to  be  employed  for  the 
purpose  of  the  camp  fires. 

So  far  as  the  parties  themselves  are  concerned,  the 
tenacity  of  the  Uruguayan  character  is  clearly 
evidenced  in  the  continued  struggles  of  the  Blancos. 
In  view  of  the  fact  that  this  party  has  not  been  in 
office  since  1864,  it  might  be  thought  that  forty-seven 
years  of  unsuccessful  attempts  would  have  cured 
it  of  an  ambition  that  has  been  so  costly  both  in  life 
and  purse.  Nevertheless,  whether  openly  or  covertly, 
the  contest  continues  with  much  the  same  amount 
of  bitterness  that  characterised  it  from  the  start. 

Broadly  speaking,  it  may  be  said  that  the  Colorado 
party  is  made  up  of  the  dwellers  in  the  towns  and 
more  populous  centres,  while  the  Blancos  are  repre- 
sented to  a large  extent  by  the  dwellers  in  the  Campo 
and  the  clerical  party.  Of  course,  no  hard-and-fast 
rule  can  be  laid  down  on  the  subject  : there  are 
Blancos  in  plenty  to  be  met  with  in  the  towns,  and 


PEDIGREE  CATTLE. 


OVEN  BIRD’S  NEST 


To  face  p.  320. 


POLITICS  AND  REVOLUTIONS  321 


numbers  of  the  opposing  section  to  be  found 
in  the  country  ; but  in  the  main  the  distinction 
applies. 

The  districts  in  which  the  Blancos  are  most  strongly 
represented  of  all  are  those  of  the  northern  provinces 
of  Tacuarembo  and  Rivera,  more  especially  the  latter, 
since  it  offers  in  case  of  need  the  refuge  of  the 
Brazilian  frontier.  Party  feeling  at  ail  times  runs 
high,  and  in  these  districts  that  are  almost  altogether 
given  over  to  the  Blanco  cause  a certain  amount 
of  caution  is  necessary  should  a revolution  actually 
be  in  progress.  Much  stress,  for  instance,  is  laid 
on  the  insignia  that — in  the  absence  of  regular 
military  uniforms — distinguish  the  adherents  of  one 
side  from  those  of  the  other.  In  a Blanco  dis- 
trict, when  trouble  is  seething,  it  may  be  laid 
down  as  a hard-and-fast  maxim  that  the  traveller 
should  wear  no  trace  of  red  about  his  person. 
The  precaution  may  seem  grotesque,  yet  many 
ludicrous  mistakes  have  occurred  through  a failure 
to  observe  it. 

One  of  the  numerous  instances  of  the  kind  was 
provided  me  by  a mining  engineer,  who  had  himself 
undergone  the  experience.  Appointed  as  manager 
to  a goldmine^  in  the  far  north  of  the  Republic,  he 
happened  to  arrive,  a stranger  to  the  country,  during 
the  period  of  unrest  in  1904.  Nearing  his  destination, 
he  had  left  the  railway-line,  and  was  completing  the 
last  few  leagues  of  his  journey  by  coach,  when  he 
stopped  for  refreshment  at  a small  pulperia , or  rural 
inn. 

The  place  was  fairly  well  filled  with  peones , and 
with  the  various  types  of  the  local  labourer,  and 
no  sooner  had  he  entered  the  doors  than  it  became 
obvious  to  the  traveller  that  his  advent  had  caused  a 
deep  sensation  amongst  these  folk.  The  landlord 
served  him  with  reluctance  and  a visible  show  of 

21 


322 


URUGUAY 


embarrassment,  while  the  black  looks  of  the  rest 
grew  deeper,  until  the  demeanour  of  a certain  number 
became  actually  threatening.  The  mining  engineer 
turned  in  amazement  to  the  palpero , who  in  mute 
accusation  pointed  a finger  at  the  tie  he  wore.  It 
was  a vivid  red  I The  traveller  had  learned  sufficient 
of  the  country’s  situation  to  enable  him  to  understand 
something  of  the  situation.  The  group  of  Blancos 
were  fully  under  the  impression  that  one  of  their 
hated  political  enemies  had  defiantly  come  to  beard 
them  in  their  very  midst.  Explanations  produced 
only  a minor  result,  since  these  hardy  dwellers  in  the 
back-blocks  were  wont  to  judge  by  deeds  rather 
than  by  words.  So,  perceiving  that  no  other  remedy 
remained,  the  wearer  of  the  hated  badge  hurried  out 
to  his  coach,  unstrapped  one  of  his  bags,  and  entered 
the  pulperia  once  more,  bearing  beneath  his  collar  a 
standard  of  neutrality  and  peace  in  the  shape  of  a 
black  tie  ! On  this  the  local  patrons  of  the  inn 
expressed  their  entire  satisfaction,  and  profound 
peace  reigned  in  the  pulperia. 

It  would  be  possible  to  mention  a number  of 
similar  episodes.  There  have  even  been  cases  when 
the  colouring  of  surveyor’s  poles  has  given  an  un- 
pleasantly political  significance  to  instruments  that 
were  never  more  misjudged.  But  even  such  ludicrous 
side-issues  serve  to  show  the  amount  of  bitterness  that 
exists  amongst  the  humblest  members  of  either  cause. 
Such  determined  struggles,  it  is  true,  are  not  a little 
eloquent  of  the  virility  and  energy  of  a nation. 
Nevertheless,  it  will  be  a bright  day  for  Uruguay 
when  the  country  can  look  upon  its  revolutions  as 
past  history.  As  I have  said  elsewhere,  these  minor 
wars  have  not  succeeded  in  arresting  the  forward 
march  of  the  Republic.  Yet  their  cessation  could 
not  fail  to  produce  an  even  greater  acceleration  in 
the  present  rate  of  progress.  Since  every  thoughtful 


POLITICS  AND  REVOLUTIONS  323 


Uruguayan  admits  this  to  the  full,  and  openly 
deplores  these  periodical  outbursts  of  unrest,  it  is 
to  be  hoped  that  the  days  of  internal  peace  will  not 
be  much  longer  delayed. 


APPENDIX 

FINANCIAL  AND  COMMERCIAL  STATISTICS 

The  increase  in  Uruguay’s  trade  with  foreign  countries  since  1862 
— Trade  with  foreign  countries  in  1908 — Imports  of  articles 
destined  for  commercial  purposes — Imports  of  articles  destined 
for  industrial  purposes — Ports  to  which  Uruguayan  wool  was 
chiefly  exported  during  1908 — Values  of  imports  from  foreign  countries 
— Values  of  exports  to  foreign  countries — Values  of  goods  handled  by 
the  various  ports  since  1909 — Proportion  of  cultivated  soil  com 
pared  with  the  area  of  departments — Live  stock  census  of  the 
Republic  in  1900,  showing  the  amounts  owned  by  Uruguayan  and 
foreign  proprietors — The  distribution  of  live  stock  in  the  various 
departments — Principal  articles  exported  from  Uruguay  to  the  United 
Kingdom  in  1909 — Principal  articles  exported  from  the  United 
Kingdom  to  Uruguay  in  1909 — Uruguay’s  Budget — Distribution  of 
expenditure  among  the  various  departments — Services  provided  for 
by  special  revenues — Principal  sources  from  which  the  revenues  are 
derived — The  development  of  the  State  Bank  during  the  years  1897- 
1909 — Balance-sheet — Cereal  production  in  tons — Cereal  harvest 
for  the  year  1908-9 — Cable,  telegraph,  and  telephone  systems — 
Postal  service. 


325 


326 


APPENDIX 


TABLE  SHOWING  THE  INCREASE  IN  URUGUAY’S  TRADE 
WITH  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES  SINCE  1862 


Year. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Total. 

1862 

$8,151,802 

$8,804,442 

$16,956,244 

1864 

8,384,167 

6,334,706 

14,718,873 

1866 

14,608,091 

10,665,040 

25,273,131 

1867 

17,657,918 

12,077,795 

29,735,713 

1868 

16,102,465 

12,139,720 

28,242,195 

1869 

16,830,078 

13,930,827 

30,760,705 

1870 

15,003,342 

12,779,051 

27,782,393 

1871 

14,864,247 

13,334,224 

28,198,471 

1872 

18,859,794 

15,489,532 

34,349,256 

1873 

21,075,446 

16,301,772 

37,377,218 

1874 

17,481,672 

15,244,785 

32,426,455 

1875 

12,431,408 

12,693,610 

25,125,018 

1876 

12,500,000 

13,727,000 

26,527,000 

1877 

15,045,846 

15,899,405 

30,945,251 

1878 

15,927,974 

17,492,159 

33,420,153 

1879 

15,949,303 

16,645,961 

32,595,864 

1880 

19,478,868 

19,752,201 

39,231,069 

1881 

17,918,884 

20,229,512 

38,148,396 

1882 

18,174,800 

22,062,934 

40,237,734 

1883 

20,322,311 

25,221,664 

35,543,975 

1884 

24,550,674 

24,759,485 

49,309,559 

1885 

25,275,476 

25,253,036 

50,528,512 

1886 

20,194,655 

23,811,986 

44,006,641 

1887 

24,615,944 

18,671,996 

43,287,940 

1888 

29,477,448 

28,008,254 

57,485,702 

1889 

36,823,863 

25,954,107 

62,777,970 

1890 

32,364,627 

29,085,519 

61,450,146 

1891 

18,978,420 

26,998,270 

45,976,690 

1892 

18,404,296 

25,915,819 

44,356,115 

1893 

19,671,640 

27,681,373 

47i353,oi3 

1894 

23,800,370 

33,470,511 

57,279,881 

1895 

24,596,193 

32,543,643 

57, 279,881 

1896 

25,530,185 

30,403,084 

55,933,269 

1897 

19,512,216 

29,219,573 

48,831,789 

1898 

24,784,361 

30,276,916 

55,061,277 

1899 

25,552,800 

36,574,164 

62,226,964 

1900 

23,978,206 

29,410,862 

53,389,068 

1901 

23,691,932 

27,731,126 

51,423,058 

1902 

23,517,347 

33,602,512 

57,119,859 

1903 

26,103,966 

37,317,909 

62,421,975 

1904 

21,217,000 

38,485,000 

59,702,000 

1905 

30,778,000 

30,805,000 

61,583,000 

1906 

34,455,ooo 

33,402,000 

67,857,000 

1907 

37,47o,7i5 

34,912,072 

72,382,787 

1908 

36,188,723 

40,296,367 

76,485,090 

1909 

37,136,764 

45,789,703 

82,946,467 

APPENDIX 


327 


URUGUAY’S  TRADE  WITH  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES  IN  1908. 
A COMPARISON  WITH  THAT  OF  SOME  OTHER  CENTRAL 
AND  SOUTH  AMERICAN  STATES 


Uruguay 

...  $76,485,090 

Guatemala 

...  $12,567,729 

Peru  

...  49,585,000 

San  Salvador  ... 

...  10,028,237 

Bolivia 

•••  33,837,ooo 

Panama 

— 9,563,946 

Columbia 

...  28,512,636 

Haiti  

8,180,008 

Venezuela 

...  26,540,905 

Paraguay 

7,661,468 

Ecuador 

...  15,296,62  7 

Nicaragua 

7,500,000 

Santo  Domingo 
Costa  Rica 

...  14,613,807 
•••  13,386,930 

Honduras 

...  4,664,039 

URUGUAY’S  IMPORTS  OF  ARTICLES  DESTINED  FOR 
COMMERCIAL  PURPOSES 


Yearly 
average  from 
1898  to  1902. 

1905. 

1906. 

1907. 

Various  foods 

$4,938,000 

$5,293,397 

$6,966,500 

$6,530,700 

Beverages  

2,359,000 

1,724,185 

1,808,500 

2,097,000 

Tobacco  

218,000 

306,142 

280,109 

697,000 

Cotton  manufactures ... 

3,265,000 

4,900,000 

4,400,000 

4,555,ooo 

Woollen  „ 

1,203,000 

1,523,600 

1,814,000 

1,879,800 

Thread  „ 

155,000 

170,086 

166,000 

226,100 

Silk  „ 

276,000 

303,286 

364,000 

521,500 

Other  „ 

344,ooo 

1,727,492 

1,587,000 

955,ooo 

Chemical  and  pharma- 
ceutical products  ... 

507,000 

75L993 

718,000 

1,178,000 

Musical  instruments  ... 

61,000 

93,873 

106,800 

116,600 

Paper  and  cardboard ... 

496,000 

615,617 

675,100 

709,300 

Manufactured  metal  ... 

707,000 

1,072,426 

1,078,100 

593,6oo 

China  and  earthenware 

84,000 

163,000 

186,800 

185,400 

Jewels,  crystals,  &c.  ... 

373,ooo 

494,815 

546,000 

724,000 

Various  articles 

1,271,000 

1,635,203 

1,948,800 

1,384,315 

Total  ... 

$17,271,000 

$20,775,651 

$22,645,700 

$22,353,615 

328 


APPENDIX 


URUGUAY’S  IMPORTS  OF  ARTICLES  DESTINED  FOR 
INDUSTRIAL  PURPOSES 


Yearly 
average  from 
1898  to  1902. 

1905. 

1906. 

1907. 

Live  stock  

$1,388,000 

$1,822,452 

$990,000 

$754,000 

Machine  oil  

533,ooo 

691,860 

781,400 

841,400 

Coal  

1,128,000 

1,366,564 

1,723,000 

1,879,000 

Paints  and  inks 

139,000 

224,784 

223,000 

320,000 

Timber 

1,112,000 

1,605,410 

1,526,000 

1,620,000 

Wooden  manufactures 

134, 000 

308,175 

349,000 

418,700 

Tanned  hides 

211,030 

310,756 

379,000 

258,000 

Iron  and  steel 

420,000 

684,959 

883,000 

1,688,500 

Agricultural  machinery 
and  instruments 

235,000 

299,146 

241,300 

180,300 

Industrial  machinery 
and  implements 

149,000 

247,116 

338,000 

847,600 

Wire  fencing 

506,000 

976,490 

721,000 

793,700 

Manufactured  iron  ... 

403,000 

619,749 

737,000 

470,000 

Portland  cement 

103,000 

237,437 

347,000 

479,600 

Tiles  

41,000 

59,601 

73,000 

74,5oo 

Railway  and  tramway 
material  

490,009 

275,889 

2,089,000 

3,194,000 

General  factory  ma- 
terial   

72,000 

275,564 

407,600 

1,295,700 

Total  ... 

$7,064,000 

$10,001,952 

$11,808,300 

$15,117,100 

APPENDTX 


329 


PORTS  TO  WHICH  URUGUAYAN  WOOL  WAS  CHIEFLY 
EXPORTED  DURING  1908 

Bales. 

94,418 


Marseilles 

Hamburg  and  Bremen  .. 


28.003 


Dunkirk  ...  ...  ...  •••  21,901 

Amberes  ...  ...  ...  •••  J7,  926 

Havre  ...  ...  •••  •••  I2,953 

Liverpool  ...  ...  ...  ...  7,°°3 

VALUES  OF  IMPORTS  FROM  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES 

Yearly 

average  from 
1898  to  1902. 

1907. 

Difference. 

Great  Britain 

... 

$6,447,764 

$11,572,152 

+ 

$5,124,388 

Germany  

2,932,965 

6,079,498 

+ 

3,146,533 

France  

2,290,174 

3,924,069 

+ 

1,633,885 

United  States 

... 

2,091,209 

3,439,445 

+ 

1,348,236 

Italy 

2,218,844 

2,898,391 

+ 

679,547 

Belgium  

1,456,469 

2,688,520 

|+ 

1,232,051 

Argentina  ... 

3,151,345 

2,563,186 

588,158 

Brazil  

1,518,800 

1,743,731 

1+ 

224,931 

Spain  

1,837,603 

1,725,198 

- 

112,405 

Holland  

3,625 

233,968 

+ 

230,343 

Paraguay  

145,431 

187,989 

+ 

42,558 

Australia  

— 

130,559 

+ 

130,539 

Cuba  

105,932 

121,040 

+ 

15,108 

Chile  

106,608 

108,342 

+ 

i,734 

Portugal  

15,087 

32,668 

+ 

17,281 

Austria 

3,071 

22,178 

:+ 

! 

19,107 

Total 

$24,324,927 

$37,470,615 

|+  $13,145,688 

330 


APPENDIX 


URUGUAYAN  EXPORTS  TO  VARIOUS  COUNTRIES 


Yearly 

average  from 
1898  to  1902. 

1907. 

1908. 

Germany 

$3,401,642 

$4,647,866 

$5,454,66i 

England 

2,592,613 

2,954,529 

2,987,759 

Argentina 

5,194,663 

7,295,195 

8,143,029 

Australia 

— 

12,750 

4,400 

Austria  

— 

116,880 

528,568 

Belgium  

5,084,554 

5,551,763 

6,138,059 

Brazil  

6,908,427 

2,759,863 

3,467,283 

Cuba 

439,040 

1,092,966 

848,858 

Chile  

282,015 

289,239 

170,924 

Scotland 

— 

38,625 

58,846 

Spain  

531,793 

533,674 

524,066 

United  States 

1,886,372 

1,603,330 

2,336,201 

France  

5,137,192 

6,441,631 

7,699,927 

Italy 

663,097 

1,155,704 

1,310,811 

Holland  

34,977 

11,910 

6,071 

Paraguay 

192,024 

9,343 

21,618 

Peru  

106 

— 

— 

Porto  Rico 

— 

— 

51,070 

Portugal  

— 

101,784 

133,170 

Prussia  

18,911 

— 

100,002 

Barbadoes... 

816 

330 

i,57o 

Canary  Islands  

14,234 

5,971 

2,475 

Falkland  Islands 

3,739 

1,483 

5ii 

Trinidad 

2,051 

3,794 

i,54i 

South  Africa  

2,760 

— 

12,195 

Provisions  for  vessels  ... 

164,400 

293,502 

291,150 

Total  ... 

#31,555,422 

$34,912,072 

$40,296,347 

APPENDIX 


331 


VALUES  OF  GOODS  HANDLED  BY  THE  VARIOUS  PORTS 
DURING  1909 


Imports. 

Exports. 

Montevideo 

$34,251,069 

$32,685,267 

Paysandu  

924,112 

2,933,884 

Salto 

57L37I 

2,000,038 

Fray  Bentos 

272,535 

2,538,870 

Colonia  

513,684 

2,770,862 

Mercedes  

226,789 

1,547,081 

Maldonado 

21,404 

— 

Rocha  

45,800 

— 

Cerro  Largo 

155,000 

780,000 

Various  

175,000 

533,700 

Total  ... 

$37,156,764 

$45,789,703 

PROPORTION  OF  CULTIVATED  SOIL  COMPARED  WITH  THE 
AREA  OF  DEPARTMENTS 


Departments. 

Area  in 
Kilometres. 

Cultivated  Area 
Hectares. 

Proportion  of 
Cultivated 
Area  to  the 
whole. 

Montevideo... 

664 

1,074 

r6i 

Artigas  

11,378 

1,321 

on 

Canelones  ...  

4,751 

139,721 

29-40 

Cerro  Largo  

14,928 

11,129 

074 

Colonia  ...  

5,681 

107,815 

1898 

Durazno  

14,314 

5,100 

0‘35 

Flores  

4,518 

3,842 

0-85 

Florida  

12,107 

33,382 

275 

Maldonado 

4, III 

n,530 

2-8o 

Minas  

12,484 

31,079 

2-49 

Paysandu 

13,252 

5,707 

o’43 

Rio  Negro  ... 

8,470 

1,727 

0*20 

Rivera  

9,828 

3,986 

0-40 

Rocha  

II,088 

7,662 

069 

Salto...  ...  

12,603 

2,202 

0-17 

San  Jose  

6,962 

102,866 

14  77 

Soriano 

9,223 

21,487 

2'33 

Tacuarembo  

21,015 

2,385 

01 1 

Treinta  y Tres  

9,539 

6,329 

066 

Total  ... 

186,929 

500,347 

267 

LIVE  STOCK  CENSUS  OF  THE  REPUBLIC  IN  1900,  SHOWING  THE  AMOUNTS  OWNED  BY  URUGUAYAN 


332 


APPENDIX 


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THE  DISTRIBUTION  OF  LIVE  STOCK  IN  THE  VARIOUS  DEPARTMENTS 


APPENDIX 


333 


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Florida  ... 
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Canelones 

334 


APPENDIX 


PRINCIPAL  ARTICLES  EXPORTED  FROM  URUGUAY  TO  THE 
UNITED  KINGDOM  IN  1909 


£ 

Meat  (chilled,  frozen,  extracts),  &c.  ...  ...  732,125 

Wool  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  173,738 

Hides  and  skins  (including  sealskins,  ^8,440)  ...  62,703 

Bones  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  10,089 

Tallow  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  76,688 

Wheat  ....  ...  ...  ...  ...  20,054 

Maize  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  7,160 

Flaxseed...  ...  ...  ...  ...  26,721 


PRINCIPAL  ARTICLES  EXPORTED  FROM  THE  UNITED 
KINGDOM  TO  URUGUAY  IN  1909 


£ 


Coal 

...  699,260 

Coke 

•••  n,339 

Woollens,  Manchester  and  Bradford  goods 

...  712,067 

Galvanised  iron 

...  141,184 

Drugs,  &c. 

...  70,460 

Machinery 

•••  337,304 

Hardware 

...  26,614 

Glass  and  china 

•••  39,105 

Jute  goods 

...  63,209 

Cement  ... 

16,000 

Stationery 

14,000 

Paints,  &c. 

...  19,140 

Metals  (excluding  iron  and  steel) 

•••  23,675 

Hats  and  millinery 

— n,335 

Woollen  articles  ... 

•••  29,737 

URUGUAY’S  BUDGET.  DISTRIBUTION  OF  EXPENDITURE  AMONG  THE  VARIOUS  DEPARTMENTS 


APPENDIX 


335 


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336 


APPENDIX 


SERVICES  PROVIDED  FOR  BY  SPECIAL  REVENUES 


Municipal  Budget ) 

Montevideo  J 
Interior... 

National  Commission  of  Charity  ... 
University,  application  of  special  revenue 
Port  works,  application  of  additional  duty 
National  Council  of  Hygiene 
Miscellaneous 


1.520.000 

930.000 

1.850.000 

140.000 

1.400.000 
33,ooo 

1.200.000 


Total  ...  7,073,000 


PRINCIPAL  SOURCES  FROM  WHICH  THE  REVENUES  ARE 

DERIVED 


$ 

£ 

Customs  Revenue  



13,620,000 

2,897,872 

Property  tax— 

Montevideo  

... 

1,090,000 

23L9I5 

Provinces 



1,720,000 

365,957 

Licensing  taxes — 

Montevideo  



783,000 

166,595 

Provinces 



57i,ooo 

121,489 

Profits  of  the  Bank  of  the  Republic 



770,000 

163,829 

Internal  taxes  on  home  manufactures — i.e.,  alcohol, 
matches,  beer,  artificial  wines,  tobacco,  &c. ... 

1,408,000 

299,574 

Stamps  and  stamped  paper 



830,000 

176,596 

Post  and  telegraphs 



570,000 

121,276 

Consumption  tax  on  imported  produce 

... 

380,000 

80,851 

Consular  fees 



233,000 

47,449 

Lighthouse  dues  

85,000 

18,085 

TABLE  SHOWING  THE  DEVELOPMENT  OF  THE  STATE  BANK  DURING  THE  YEARS  1897-1909 


APPENDIX 


337 


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338 


APPENDIX 


The  following  is  the  balance-sheet  of  December  31,  1909  : 


Assets. 


Cash  ... 

... 

$ 

20,036,564 

Advances 

... 

18,921,606 

Foreign  correspondents  ... 

... 

2,927,139 

Capital  not  realised 

... 

5,045.947 

Sundry  stocks  and  discounts 

... 

940,007 

National  savings  bank  ... 

... 

400,000 

Stocks,  &c.,  for  guarantees 

of  judicial  and 

administrative  deposits 

... 

842,671 

Properties 

... 

540,596 

Branches 

... 

4,657,167 

Stocks  and  shares  deposited 



22,798,736 

Total  ... 

77,110,433 

Equivalent  in  sterling  ...  16,406,475 


Liabilities. 

Authorised  capital 

$ 

12,000,000 

Judicial  and  administrative  deposits 

.... 

703,641 

Notes  in  circulation 

... 

16,692,413 

Deposit  certificates  and  silver 
“ conformes  ” 

cheque 

1,633,000 

Reserve  Fund  ... 

... 

597,599 

Deposits 

... 

11,000,423 

Supreme  Government 

... 

6,047,270 

Dividends  (payable  to  State) 

... 

769,221 

Branches 

... 

4,807,854 

Sundries 

... 

60,276 

Depositors  of  stocks  and  shares  ... 

... 

22,798,736 

Total  ...  77,110,433 


Equivalent  in  sterling  ...  16,406,475 


APPENDIX 


339 


CEREAL  PRODUCTION  IN  TONS 


Year. 

Wheat. 

Linseed. 

Oats. 

Barley. 

Birdseed. 

Maize. 

1900 

Tons. 

187,553 

Tons. 

1,009 

Tons. 

33 

Tons. 

424 

Tons. 

518 

Tons. 

77,093 

1901 

99,719 

2,313 

68 

438 

709 

141,647 

1902 

206,936 

8,757 

115 

I,Ol6 

I,I°3 

128,539 

1903 

142,611 

20,767 

149 

658 

323 

134,335 

1905 

205,888 

14,046 

525 

588 

i,745 

121,862 

1906 

124,344 

10,782 

543 

786 

1,908 

81,956 

1907 

186,884 

21,930 

i,752 

1,576 

1,638 

13,613 

1908 

202,208 

18,372 

3,467 

1,889 

223 

— 

1909 

233.91° 

13,259 

6,710 

3,°72 

119 

169,464 

CEREAL  HARVEST  FOR  THE  YEAR  1908-9 


Amount  Sown. 

Area 

Cultivated. 

Total  Yield 

Wheat 

Kilos. 

18,915,529 

Hectares. 

276,787 

Kilos. 

233,910,034 

Linseed  

592,959 

18,341 

13,259,821 

Oats  

458,156 

6,891 

6,710,645 

Barley 

238,089 

3,487 

3,072,202 

Canary  seed 

5,319 

141 

119,130 

Maize  ... 

2,534,739 

203,268 

169,464,099 

340 


APPENDIX 


CABLE,  TELEGRAPH,  AND  TELEPHONE  SYSTEMS  IN 
URUGUAY 


Cables. 

Miles. 

Western  Telegraph  Company ...  ...  470 

River  Plate  Telegraph  Company  ...  ...  ...  180 

Telegraph  and  Telephone  Company  of  the  River  Plate...  205 
National  Government  cable  ...  ...  ...  ...  10 

Total  ...  865 


Telegraphs. 

Miles. 

National  Government  Telegraphs  ...  ...  ...  1,740 

Oriental  Telegraph  Company  ...  ...  ...  1,030 

River  Plate  Telegraph  Company  ...  ...  ...  328 

Telegraph  and  Telephone  Company  of  the  River  Plate...  300 


Total  ...  3,398 


Telegraphs  (Railway  System). 


Central  Uruguay  Railway  Company  ... 

Miles. 

2,138 

Midland  Railway  Company  ... 

198 

Northern  Railway  Company... 

7 1 

North  Western  Railway  Company 

...  ...  112 

Eastern  Railway  Company  ... 

32 

Local  companies 

39 

Total  ...  2,590 

Telephones. 

Miles. 

Montevideo  Telephone  Company  (British)  ...  ...  10,845 

The  Co-operative  Telephone  Company  (Uruguayan)  ...  4,375 

National  Government  lines  for  police  service  ...  ...  2,188 


Total 


...  17,408 


APPENDIX 


341 


SUMMARY 

Miles. 

Cables  (Telegraphs)  ...  ...  ...  ...  865 

Public  service  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  3,398 

Railway  service  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  2,590 

Telephones  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  17,408 


Total  ...  24,261 

POSTAL  SERVICE 

The  Revenue  trom  the  Postal  Services  for  the  year  1909  amounts  to 
^132,307,  and  the  expenditure  as  authorised  by  the  Government  ^106,085. 


INDEX 


A 

Aborigines  (138-150) ; various 
tribes,  138  ; character  of,  139  ; 
ethics,  140  ; marriage,  141  ; war- 
fare, 142 ; weapons,  143  ; burial, 
143-4 ; superstitions,  144-5  ; 
question  of  cannibalism,  145-6  ; 
introduction  of  horses  to,  147 ; 
hostility  to  whites,  147 
Administration,  312-3. 

Agnes  C.  Donohoe,  Canadian  sealing- 
schooner,  seized,  295 
Agricultural  societies,  259 
Agriculture  ( See  Estancias,  In- 
dustries, Cereals ) ; proportion  of 
soil  in  cultivation,  331 
Alfalfa,  205 

Alvear,  defeats  Otorgues,  70  ; 

deposed  by  Thomas,  72 
Amethysts,  235,  289 
Aguirre,  President,  121 
Arachanes  Indians,  150 
Architecture,  193-4,  201,  208,  216 
Argentina,  provinces,  occupied  by 
Lopes,  122 

Argentine,  the,  relations  with 
Uruguay,  30,  63-4.  See  Buenos 
Aires,  Rosas 

Artigas  (78-96),  central  figure  of 
the  Revolution,  57 ; joins  patriots, 
58 ; defeats  Spaniards  at  Las 
Piedras,  59 ; besieges  Monte- 
video, 60  ; superseded  in  com- 


mand, 61  ; heads  exodus  to 
Argentine,  63  ; insists  on  Uru- 
guayan autonomy,  64;  separates 
from  Argentine,  65 ; elected 
President,  67  ; raises  siege  of 
Montevideo,  is  outlawed  by 
Argentina,  but  raises  revolt  in 
provinces,  68  ; demands  sur- 
render of  Montevideo,  69  ; ruler 
of  Uruguay,  71 ; returns  hostages 
to  Thomas,  72 ; defeated  by 
Brazilians,  75  ; declares  war 
upon  Buenos  Aires,  75  ; deserted 
by  leaders,  76  ; escapes  to  Para- 
guay, 77 ; history  of,  78-96 ; 
character,  79-80  ; early  life,  81- 
3 ; ruler  of  Uruguay,  88  ; expels 
Spaniards,  89 ; horrors  com- 
mitted in  camp,  91  ; simplicity 
of  manners,  91-4 

B 

Banda  Oriental,  27,  subject  to 
Artigas,  90 
Barley,  285 
Bathing-places,  167 
Batlle,  President,  123,  126 
Beef  Trust  of  United  States,  280-1 ; 
attempt  to  capture  South  Ameri- 
can refrigerating  industry,  282 
Belgrano,  makes  treaty  with 
Portuguese,  64 


344 


INDEX 


“ Blancos,"  or  Whites,  the,  a 
political  clan,  32 ; assassinate 
Flores,  123  ; assassinate  Borda, 
125  ; origin  of  term,  313  ; 314-5, 
321-3 

Bohanes  Indians,  148 
Borda,  President,  assassinated,  125 
Brazil,  relations  with,  30-1 ; in- 
vades Uruguay  in  1817,  75 ; 
annexes  Uruguay,  77  ; alliance 
with  Uruguay  against  Rosas, 
1 17;  sends  troops  to  assist 
Flores,  120  ; alliance  with  Uru- 
guay in  Paraguayan  War,  122 
British  : capital,  276  ; popularity 
of,  33  ; enterprise,  296-7 ; in- 
vade Uruguay  and  evacuate  it, 
55.  See  England. 

Brown,  Admiral,  destroys  Spanish 
fleet,  68 ; destroys  Uruguayan 
fleet,  114 
Budget,  the,  335 

Buenos  Aires,  taken  by  British, 
55 ; Junta  of,  56 ; action  of 
Government  during  revolu- 
tion, 62,  64  ; refuses  to  recog- 
nise Congress  of  Urugay,  67 ; 
evacuates  Montevideo,  70,  71  ; 
sends  forces  against  Artigas 
which  revolt  and  depose  Alvear, 
72  ; offers  to  acknowledge  Uru- 
guayan independence  in  return 
for  Transplatine  provinces,  73 
Bull-fighting,  133-4,  223-4 
Burnett,  Mr.  Henry,  British  Vice- 
Consul,  203 

Bustamente,  President,  120 
C 

Cabildo,  official,  73 

Cabot  founds  San  Sebastian,  38 


Campo,  the,  72,  114,  175-7,  *37, 
237-45 

Canaries,  immigrants  from,  48-9 
53 

Canelones,  265 
Caudillo , severity  of,  74 
Carlos  II.  of  Spain,  surrenders 
Colonia  to  Portugal,  42 
Carlota,  Queen  of  Portugal,  61 
Casas,  Padre  de  las,  recommends 
introduction  of  negro  slaves,  44 
Cattle,  introduced  by  Hernan- 
darias,  40;  superabundance  of, 
IS3>  247-87  250, 254-264 ; census, 
332  ; distribution  of,  333 
Cereals,  284-5 

Changadores,  or  early  buccaneers, 
40 

Charity,  Commission  of,  313 
Charrua  Indians,  kill  de  Solis,  37 ; 
destroy  S.  Sebastian,  38  ; attempt 
to  sack  Montevideo,  49  ; prac- 
tically exterminated,  no,  139- 
47 

Cheese,  175 

Chilled  meat.  See  Refrigerating 
Industry 
Cholera,  124 

Civil  War,  28 ; after  War  of 
Independence,  108  ; Rosas  in- 
tervenes, 1 12  ; the  French  inter- 
vene, 1 13.  See  Revolution, 
Revolutions 
Climate,  272 
Clubs,  158-9 
Colon,  166 

Colonia,  foundation  of,  42  ; in 
hands  of  Portuguese,  43  ; cap- 
tured by  Spanish,  44 ; given 
back  to  Portugal  by  Philip  V., 
44 ; besieged  by  Salcedo,  49  ; 
exchanged  for  Jesuit  missions, 


INDEX 


345 


50 ; again  becomes  Portuguese, 
is  retaken,  and  again  falls  to 
Portuguese,  51  ; captured  by 
Ceballos,  53  ; siege  of,  during 
Revolution,  60 
Colonia,  department,  267 
Colonia  Suiza,  21 1-5 
Colonies,  212-3,  220-244 
“ Colorados  ” or  Reds,  a political 
clan,  32 ; formation  of,  120 ; 
origin  of,  313  ; 314-5,  321-3 
Communications,  296-308.  See 
Railways,  Shipping 
“ Conciliation  Ministry,”  the,  125 
Constitution  of  Uruguay,  109,  31 1 
Coronilla,  seal  islands,  294 
Corrales,  goldfields,  287 
Costume,  180 
Cuestas,  125 

Culta,  besieges  Montevideo,  65 
Customs  revenue,  336 
Customs  service,  83 

D 

Dairies,  214,  261 

Darwin,  discovers  fulgurites  at 
Maldonado,  203 

Departments,  265 ; budgets  of, 
335 

Diamonds,  288 

Diaz,  General,  revolt  of,  119  ; 
policy  of,  120 ; second  revolt 
and  execution,  121 
Dolores,  taken  by  the  Thirty-Three, 
101 

Domestics,  180-1 
Durazno,  department,  266 

E 

Eden,  185 
Education,  32,  165 


Elio,  appeals  to  Queen  Carlota  for 
help  during  siege  of  Montevideo, 
61,  88 

England,  intervenes  during  Rosas’ 
invasion,  116;  exports  to,  334; 
exports  from,  334.  See  British. 
English  colony,  the,  159 
Estancias,  246-53 
Exports,  277,  329  ; general,  330  ; 
to  England,  334 

F 

Faeneros,  early  trafficking  in  hides 
by,  4° 

Fauna  of  Uruguay,  273-5 
Ferdinand  VI.  of  Spain,  cedes 
northern  Uruguay  and  the 
Missions  to  Portugal  in  return 
for  Colonia,  50 

Feuds,  137.  See  Politics,  Revolu- 
tions 

Finance,  a crisis,  124 ; increased 
cost  of  living,  13 1-2  ; Eng- 
lish capital,  276 ; imports  and 
exports,  277 ; the  Budget,  335  ; 
special  revenue,  336 ; principal 
sources  of  revenue,  336 
Flores,  Dictator,  120-1  ; assassi- 
nated, 123 

Florida,  department,  205 
Football,  133 

Foreigners,  position  of,  32 
France,  blockades  Buenos  Aires, 

1 13  ; forms  armistice  with  Rosas, 

1 14  ; intervenes  during  invasion 
by  Rosas,  116 

Francia,  Dictator  of  Paraguay,  77 
Fray  Bentos,  229 
Frigorifica  Uruguaya,  263 
Frozen  Meat  trade,  263,  280-2 
Fulgurites,  203 


346 


INDEX 


G 

Garay,  Juan  de,  defeats  Zapican, 
39 

Garibaldi,  as  privateer,  114 
Garro,  de,  Governor  of  Buenos 
Aires,  expels  Portuguese  from 
Colonia,  42  ; removed  from  post 
and  promoted,  43 
Gauchos,  240-2,  251-3 
Gems,  288-9 

Giro,  fourth  President,  119 
Gold,  287 

Government,  policy  of,  35 ; es- 
tablished by  Lavalleja,  104 
Guarani  Indians,  149 
Guenoa  Indians,  149 

H 

Hares,  207 

Heran,  Padre,  Jesuit,  49 
H ernandarias,  defeated  by  Charrua 
Indians,  39 ; ships  cattle  and 
horses  to  Colonia  to  breed  in 
wild  state,  40 

Hervidero,  headquarters  of  Arti- 
gas,  90 

Highways,  195-6 
History,  37-127 

Horses,  introduced  by  H ernanda- 
rias, 40,  256,  258 
Hotels,  159-60 

I 

Immigration,  modern  methods  in 
use  in  eighteenth  century,  48 
Imports,  277  ; commercial,  327  ; 

industrial,  328  ; value  of,  329 
Independence,  War  of,  28.  See 
History , Revolutions 
Indians,  Charruas,  37 ; become 
carnivorous  and  equestrians,  42  ; 


campaign  against,  43 ; rising 
crushed,  50 ; they  resist  treaty 
of  1750,  50.  See  Aborigines 
International  troubles,  28 
Irala  orders  Romero  to  settle 
Uruguay,  38 

J 

Jesuits,  in  Uruguay,  50  ; expelled 
by  Carlos  III.,  51 

K 

Kennedy,  Mr.  R.  J.,  British 
Minister  Plenipotentiary,  34 

L 

Landscape,  of  Uruguay,  173-5, 
184-7,  *97>  206-7,  222  ; of  the 
Campo,  238-45  ; 251 
Latorre,  dictator,  124 
Lavalleja,  Juan  Antonio,  liberator 
of  Uruguay,  98 ; head  of  the 
Thirty -Three,  99 ; takes  Dolores, 
100-2 ; besieges  Montevideo 
with  100  men,  102 ; sets  up 
Government,  103  ; General-in- 
Chief  of  Army  of  Liberation, 
104 ; deposes  Junta,  105 ; char- 
acter as  ruler,  108 ; turns  upon 
Rivera,  109-110  ; enters  Monte- 
video but  is  forced  to  retire  ; 
appointed  President,  the  ap- 
pointment is  refused  by 
Assembly,  no;  takes  refuge  in 
Brazil,  in  ; supports  Oribe, 
112  ; death  of,  117 
Law,  312 
Lemco,  229,  283 
Liebig.  See  Lemco 


INDEX 


347 


Livestock,  census  of,  255 ; cattle 
census,  332  ; distribution,  333  ; 
Lopes,  Dictator  of  Paraguay, 
declares  war  upon  Brazil,  Uru- 
guay, and  Argentina,  123 
Lottery,  313 

Luxury,  Uruguayan  free  from 
common  South  American  habit, 
133 

M 

Magellan,  38 

Maldonado  department,  fulgurites 
in  dunes  of,  293  ; 270-1  ; mines 
and  mineral  products  of,  288 
Manners  and  customs,  128-137 
Marriage,  laws  of,  312 
Meat,  dried,  261-2 ; 278-9.  See 
Tasajo 

Meat,  frozen.  See  Refrigerating 
Meat  trade,  the,  261-2,  278,  279, 
280-2.  See  Beef  Trust 
Mercedes,  captured  by  Gauchos, 
58,  205,  208-9  ; port  of,  210 
Minas,  department,  271 
Minuanes,  Indians,  150 
Monte  Caseros,  battle  of,  117 
Montevideo,  city  of,  46,  48-9 ; a 
Governor  appointed,  50  ; seat  of 
Viceroy  after  the  revolution  of 
Buenos  Aires,  56  ; siege  during 
revolution,  60, 62  ; a fresh  siege 
64-5  ; capitulation,  68  ; occupied 
by  Alvear,  70 ; evacuated,  70  ; 
entered  by  Otorgues,  71 ; cap- 
tured by  Brazilians,  75  ; besieged 
by  the  Thirty-Three,  103  ; 
entered  by  provisional  Govern- 
ment, 106  ; in  revolt,  1 10 ; the 
Nine  Years’  Siege,  114-5; 
revolution  of  1851,  120  ; seized 
by  the  Colorados,  121  ; popula- 


tion of,  15 1 ; description  of, 
152-60  ; surroundings  of,  161-2  ; 
port  works,  304 
Montevideo,  department,  271 
Moreau,  French  adventurer,  45 
Museum  at  Montevideo,  157 
Mutton,  despised,  156 

N 

National  Assembly,  confirms  and 
then  vetoes  appointment  of 
Lavalleja,  111 

Negroes,  first  introduced  into 
Uruguay,  44,  243  ; troops,  243  ; 
treatment  of,  in  slavery,  245 

O 

Oats,  285 

Oribe,  General,  108  ; second  Presi- 
dent, hi  ; deprives  Rivera  of 
command,  112  ; resigns  upon 
intervention  of  France,  113 ; 
joins  Rosas,  114  ; 120,  314 
Ostentation,  common  South 
American  failing,  not  found  in 
Uruguay,  133 
Ostrich,  the,  275-6 
Otorgues,  enters  Montevideo,  71  ; 
captured,  75 

P 

Palomas,  seal  islands,  295 
Pan  de  Azucar,  201 
Pando,  agricultural  centre,  197-8 
Paraguay,  28  ; appealed  to  during 
Revolution,  64  ; the  Paraguayan 
War,  122-3 

Paysandu,  centre  of  meat  industry, 
32,  58,  321-2 

Paysandu,  department,  268 


348 


INDEX 


Pelota,  223 

Pereira,  President,  120-1 
Philip  V.  cedes  Colonia  to  Portu- 
guese, 44 
Pines,  203 

Piracy  in  eighteenth  century,  45 
Piria,  Senor,  199-200,  202 
Piriapolis,  197 

Plata,  La,  River  Plate,  delineation 
of  boundaries,  34,  45 
Police,  136-7 

Politics,  311-23  ; conduct  of  revo- 
lutions, 316-17 

Portuguese,  rivalry  of,  with  Spain, 
38 ; founders  of  Colonia,  42  ; 
attempt  to  obtain  Uruguay,  46  ; 
invade  Rio  Grande,  49  ; trouble 
with,  50-55 ; invade  Uruguay 
during  Revolution,  61  ; again 
invade  Uruguay,  73.  See  Brazil 
Posts,  Telegraphs,  Telephones, 
340-1 

Prado,  the,  162 

Privateering,  45  ; Uruguayan  pri- 
vateers in  European  waters,  75  ; 
Garibaldi,  114 
Progress,  36 

R 

Race-meetings,  13 1 

Railways,  176-80,  206-7,  297~3°8  ; 

companies  and  stock,  302,  308 
Ramirez,  deserts  and  defeats 
Artigas,  76 

Ranchos,  primitive)  177,  21 1 
Rats,  in  Montevideo,  155 
Real  de  San  Carlo,  223 
Refrigerating  industry,  263,  280-2 
Republican  Constitution,  the,  312 
Revenue,  tables  of,  335-6 
Revolutions  : the  War  of  Indepen- 
dence commences  at  Paysandu, 


58 ; Portuguese  intervention,  64; 
independence  proclaimed,  71  ; 
independence  recognised  after 
expulsion  of  the  Brazilians, 
103;  revolution  of  1853,  119; 
military  revolution  of  1875,  124 ; 
lesser  revolutions,  311-23 
Rhodesia,  283 

Rio  Negro,  department,  267 
Rivera,  department,  269 ; gold- 
fields, 287-8 

Rivera,  General,  joins  the  Thirty- 
Three,  102 ; jealousy  of  Laval- 
leja,  104 ; accused  of  treason 
and  imprisoned,  105  ; attacked 
by  Lavalleja,  109 ; elected 
President,  109 ; escapes  from 
Lavalleja’s  attempt  at  capture, 
no;  chases  Lavalleja  into 
Brazil,  no  ; deprived  of  rank  by 
Oribe,  112;  returns  to  power 
assisted  by  French,  113  ; at- 
tacked by  Oribe  and  defeated, 
114;  further  defeat,  115;  ap- 
pointed as  Minister  to  Paraguay, 
116;  return  to  power,  116; 
death,  117 
Rivera,  town,  193 
Rondeau,  defeats  Portuguese,  55  ; 
at  siege  of  Montevideo,  61,  65  ; 
made  Governor,  108,  314 
Rosario,  53 

Rosas,  Dictator  of  Argentina,  no; 
supports  Lavalleja,  111-2;  in- 
vades Uruguay,  113;  armistice 
with  French,  114  ; nine  years’ 
siege  of  Montevideo,  114  ; 
final  defeat  and  flight,  117 

S 

Saladeros,  dried  meat  factories,  261 
Salto,  department,  268 


INDEX 


349 


Salto,  town,  234 
San  Jose,  207 

San  Juan,  department,  266 
San  Juan,  estancia,  248-9 
Santa  Ana,  193-4 
Santa  Lucia,  207 
Santos,  125 
Seal  fisheries,  291-5 
Sheep,  258 
Shipping,  308-9 
Sierra  de  Mai  Abrigo,  207 
Slaves,  introduction  of,  44,  243, 
245.  See  Negroes 
Solis,  Juan  Dias  de,  discoverer  of 
Uruguay,  killed  by  Indians, 

37-8 

Soriano,  department,  267 
Spain,  turns  attention  to  Uruguay, 
38  ; during  Revolution,  38-68 ; 
fall  of  Spanish  power  in  Uru- 
guay, 68  ; fall  of  Spanish  power 
in  America,  72 ; State  Bank, 337-8 
Steamer  traffic.  See  Shipping. 
Suarez,  115 
Swine,  258 
Swiss  Colony,  212 

T 

Tacuarembo,  department,  269 
Tacuarembo,  town,  187 
Tajes,  President,  125 
Tambores,  178-9 
Tasajo,  dried  meat,  261-2,  278-9 
Tea-Garden  Restaurant,  166-7 
Theatres,  13 1 

Thomas,  General  Alvarez,  deposes 
Alvear  and  becomes  Director  of 
Buenos  Aires,  72 
Topaz,  235,  289 

Trade,  277 ; exports,  277,  329 ; 
general,  330 ; to  England,  334  ; 


table  of  increase,  326  ; compara- 
tive trade  in  1908,  table,  327  ; 
table  of  commercial  imports, 
327  ; value  of,  331 
Treintay  Tres,  the  “ Thirty-Three,” 
set  out  from  Buenos  Aires,  99  ; 
capture  Dolores,  101 ; win  over 
Rivera,  102 ; besiege  Monte- 
video, 102  ; obtain  general  sup- 
port, 103 

Treinta  y Tres,  department,  270 
Triumvirate,  the  abortive,  119 
Tunnel,  Banada  de  Rocha,  191 

U 

Urquiza,  General,  defeats  Rivera, 
1 15  ; defeats  Rosas,  117 
Uruguay  : general  description  of, 
27-36 ; history  of,  37-127 ; 
manners  and  customs,  128-137  ; 
continued  warfare  in  the  past, 
29 ; present  conditions,  34 ; 
War  of  Independence,  38,  et 
seq. ; independence  proclaimed, 
71 ; evils  of  new  regime,  71 ; 
partitioned,  73 ; invaded  by 
Portuguese,  73 ; annexed  to 
Brazil,  77 ; Lavalleja  sets  up 
National  Government,  104;  in- 
dependence recognised,  105  ; 
alliance  with  France,  113  ; at 
mercy  of  Rosas,  1 16 ; alliance 
with  Brazil  and  defeat  of  Rosas, 
1 17;  warlike  history  of,  126; 
life  in,  138 ; landscape,  174-5 ; 
the  Campo,  237-246 ; depart- 
ments of,  265 

Uruguayans,  heroism  of,  29 . 
fighting  qualities,  31  ; character 
as  troops,  94-5 ; character  of 
people,  128 ; hospitality  and 


350 


INDEX 


democratic  feeling,  115,  130-3; 
physique  of,  133  ; honesty,  136  ; 
sobriety,  137;  types  of,  181-90; 
a Paladin  of  the  Campo,  190 

V 

Varela,  Dictator,  124 
Vidal,  President,  124-5 
Vigodet,  65 
Villa  del  Cerro,  168 
Viticulture,  289-91 

W 

War  of  Independence,  58.  See 
Revolutions 
Water-stone,  235 
Whale  fishery,  54 


Wheat,  278 

Whitelocke,  General,  incapacity 
of.  55 

Wild,  A.,  dealer  in  gems,  289 
Williman,  President,  126 
Wines,  289-291 
Women,  Uruguayan,  135,  180 

Y 

Yaros  Indians,  148 
Z 

Zapican,  famous  Indian  chief,  de- 
feats Zarate,  is  defeated  and 
killed  by  J.  de  Garay,  39 
Zarate,  founds  a settlement,  and  is 
defeated  by  Zapican,  39 
Zavala,  captures  Montevideo,  47 


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